IF YOU’VE EVER PARTAKEN of the sacred rite of a shot of tequila combined with salt and a lime wedge, you can appreciate the wisdom of George Carlin’s “One tequila, two tequila, three tequila, floor.” Outside of Mexico, tequila’s fraternity-house association has given way to a new appreciation for Mexico’s national drink, which can be wonderfully assertive or be as smooth and mellow as the finest sipping brandy.
Tequila, which is made from the heart of the blue agave plant in the region of Jalisco, Mexico, can be divided into three major categories. The first is silver tequila, also called “blanco” or “plato,” which is bottled immediately after the heart is fermented and distilled. Reposados, or “rested” tequilas, are aged for two to twelve months in oak barrels. Next are the sipping tequilas—the añejos, which means “aged.” They are aged in oak barrels for at least one year but are typically aged three to five years. When buying tequila look for 100% agave on the label for the best tequila. Avoid gold tequila—it is unaged silver tequila that has been colored and flavored with caramel.
We love the strong vegetal flavor of silver tequila, but if you’re not a fan, try the softer reposado in cocktails. Traditionally, aged tequila has not been used for mixing, though a new generation of mixologists are using it to create smooth, luxurious cocktails (see Mango Margarita created by Mexican-born mixologist Migual Aranda).
Whereas tequila’s introduction to the United States dates only to the late 1940s, when the newly created Margarita popularized it, rum’s place in the American liquor cabinet goes back centuries. First distilled on the sugarcane plantations of the Caribbean in the seventeenth century, rum’s popularity soon spread to Colonial America. To support the demand for the drink, the first rum distillery in the colonies was set up in 1664 on present-day Staten Island. Colonial New Englanders manufactured rum using West Indian molasses, creating what became the largest and most prosperous industry in the region. Today rum is made primarily in the Caribbean, where the climate is ideal for growing sugar cane, and secondarily in South America, though there are rums made in other parts of the world as well.
Distilled from fermented sugar cane juice or more frequently molasses, rum can be divided into four main categories: white, amber, dark (a.k.a.light, medium and heavy), and aged (añejo) rum. Aged rum, which has a tawny color and more mellow flavor, must be aged at least six years, whereas the other rums are aged between six months and up to six years, but most are aged between one and three years. Rum bottles must, by law, state their country of origin, where slightly different fermenting, distilling and aging methods render basic styles of rum— lighter or heavier-bodied, clear or colored—for which the country is known.
A play on the classic Hurricane, whose signature ingredient is passion fruit juice, this slightly spicy Indian-inspired cocktail should help you ride out any storm that comes your way. We got the idea of combining sweet fruit with spicy chiles from Shubhra Ramenini’s recipe for Fruit Chaat (www.enticewithspice.com). If you cannot find fresh passion fruit or bottled passion fruit juice, substitute a fruit juice blend that contains passion fruit. If the blend contains mango juice, use ¾ ounce (22 ml) of mango juice and 1¼ ounces (37 ml) of the fruit blend. If monotonous rains are keeping you holed up by the bar, try a calming variation on this cocktail called the “Monsoon.” To create the Monsoon, replace the cumin seeds, chili pepper and salt with 4 cardamom pods. (Be sure to muddle the pods until they break.)
Two 1-inch (2.5-cm) chunks fresh pineapple
2 teaspoons sugar
Scant ¼ teaspoon cumin seeds, toasted
2 slices of finger, serrano or jalapeño chile (with seeds)
Pinch of kosher salt or sea salt
1¼ oz (37 ml) light rum
¾ oz (22 ml) dark rum
½ oz (15 ml) freshly squeezed lime juice
1 oz (30 ml) mango juice 1 oz (30 ml) passion fruit juice or 2 tablespoons fresh passion fruitpulp (from 1 passion fruit)
Splash of grenadine (see page 21)
Pineapple wedge, for garnish
Fill a collins glass with ice. Place the pineapple, sugar, toasted cumin seeds, chili pepper slices and salt in a mixing glass, and muddle. (You should press hard enough to crush the cumin seeds.) Add ice and the rest of the ingredients. Shake vigorously and double strain into the collins glass. Garnish with the pineapple wedge.
NOTE: To toast cumin seeds, place the seed in a small skillet over medium-low heat. Stir frequently. When the seeds start to remove an aroma and become lightly browned, remove from the heat.
This pretty pink cocktail makes a nice after dinner drink. Anisette, a clear very sweet liquor that is made with anise seeds, is similar in flavor to star anise, a favorite spice in China, which no doubt inspired the drink’s name. The preferred choice of rum for this classic cocktail is Jamaican light rum.
2 oz (60 ml) light rum
1 oz (30 ml) anisette
1 oz (30 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 teaspoon grenadine
Combine the ingredients in an iced shaker and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
The original daiquiri hails from Cuba and is quite simple—rum, lime juice and sugar. Our three Asian twists are also equally simple and delicious—from the aromatic Thai Basil Daiquiri, to the earthy yet sour Tamarind Daiquiri to the delicate golden-colored Calamansi Daiquiri.
THAI BASIL DAIQUIRI
1½ oz (45 ml) white rum
¾ oz (22 ml) Thai Basil Syrup (page 21)
½ oz (15 ml) freshly squeezed lime juice
Combine the ingredients in an iced shaker and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
TAMARIND DAIQUIRI
1½ oz (45 ml) white rum
¾ oz (22 ml) Simple Syrup (page 19)
½ oz (15 ml) tamarind concentrate (see page 17)
Combine the ingredients in an iced shaker and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
CALAMANSI DAIQUIRI
1½ oz (45 ml) white rum
¾ oz (22 ml) Simple Syrup (page 19)
½ oz plus ¾ teaspoon (20 ml) defrosted frozen or freshly squeezed calamansi juice
Combine the ingredients in an iced shaker and shake vigorously. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass.
NOTE: Calamansi juice is also available presweetened in bottles. If you use this, reduce the amount of simple syrup accordingly.
The vanilla bean, which is harvested from a very special variety of orchid (out of 20,000 possible orchid varieties!), is the inspiration for this honey-colored cocktail from Timothy Lacey of Spring. Aged rum is infused with vanilla, giving this drink a heady aroma and distinctive flavor that works equally well before or after dinner.
2½ oz (75 ml) Vanilla Bean–Infused Rum (page 23)
¼ oz (7 ml) each yuzu juice and freshly squeezed lemon
juice or ½ oz (15 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ oz (15 ml) Simple Syrup (page 19)
Fresh orchid blossom or small lemon twist, for garnish
Combine the ingredients in an iced shaker. Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with the orchid blossom or lemon twist.
Invented in 1944 by Victor “Trader Vic” Bergeron, this island concoction is a mainstay at tiki lounges and Chinese-American restaurants—along with drinks like the Scorpion or Pink Lady. The original Mai Tai recipe was made with aged rum. Many recipes are made with light and dark rum and include pineapple juice and orange juice. Except for a touch of dark rum to deepen the rum flavor, this version is fairly close to the spirit of the original, where lime juice is the only fruit used. Trader Vic used Rock Candy syrup in the original Mai Tai. We use the easier-to-find cane syrup, which is more flavorful than plain ’ole simple syrup.
2 oz (60 ml) aged rum
1 oz (30 ml) freshly squeezed lime juice
¾ oz (22 ml) Cointreau
¼ oz (7 ml) cane syrup or 2:1 Simple Syrup (page 19)
¼ oz (7 ml) orgeat or almond syrup
½ teaspoon dark rum Orange slice and maraschino cherry for garnish
Fill a large rocks glass with crushed ice. Combine the ingredients in an iced shaker and shake vigorously. Strain into the rocks glass and add the garnish.
This tropical-tasting cocktail from Starry Night Café has one of the most inventive and playful garnishes around. Coconut rum can be a bit cloying on its own, but freshly squeezed lime juice balances it nicely in this drink. The staff at Starry Night recommend Bacardi coconut rum—and they think it just might make a convert out of you, too.
2 oz (60 ml) coconut rum
¾ oz (22 ml) Lemongrass Syrup (page 20)
1 oz (30 ml) freshly squeezed lime juice
Candied Lemongrass Straws, for garnish (recipe follows)
Fill a rocks glass with ice. Combine the ingredients in an iced shaker and shake vigorously. Strain into the rocks glass and serve with a candied lemongrass straw.
CANDIED LEMONGRASS STRAWS
Makes approximately 15 straws
1 fresh stalk lemongrass
1 cup (250 ml) 2:1 Simple Syrup (page 19)
Sugar, preferably demerara, for coating
Wash the lemongrass and cut about ½ inch (1.25 cm) off the hard root end and the top one-third off the stalk, and discard. Remove the tough outer layers and discard. Cut the stalk in half lengthwise. Make a slit down the middle of the stalk and unravel the layers into hollow tubes. In a small saucepan, combine the lemongrass straws and enough 2:1 Simple Syrup to cover. Bring to a boil and boil for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat strain the lemongrass straws, retaining the Simple Syrup. Let the lemongrass and syrup cool separately for about 15 minutes and then recombine them. Repeat the boiling and cooling process four to five times, letting the lemongrass cool and dry out between sessions so that it retains more sugar with each boil. When the lemongrass straws have cooled, roll in granulated sugar (preferably demerara) and place on a baking sheet in a warm oven (175ºF/80ºC) to dry, about 25 minutes. Let cool before using.
Sour tamarind replaces the lime in this margarita, giving it a softer less acidic balance of sweet and sour.
1½ oz (45 ml) silver tequila
½ oz (15 ml) freshly squeezed orange juice
½ oz (15 ml) triple sec
½ oz (15 ml) tamarind concentrate (see page 17)
Fill a rocks glass with ice. Combine the ingredients in an iced shaker and shake vigorously. Strain into the rocks glass.
Here mixologist Miguel Aranda has added mango to the basic margarita trinity—orange, lime and tequila— bringing it to new heights. The sweet flavor of mango is fantastic paired with smoky Mezcal, the woody flavor of aged tequila and spicy chili salt. Unlike tequila, mezcal can be made with agave other than the famous “blue” agave and is produced throughout most of Mexico—not just Jalisco. When making mezcal, the agave hearts are baked in underground ovens heated with wood charcoal, which gives Mezcal its distinctive smoky taste. Rested or silver tequila can be used, though aged is best for this revisionist margarita.
Chili Salt, for rimming (recipe follows)
1½ oz (45 ml) mango juice
½ oz (15 ml) freshly squeezed lime juice
½ oz (15 ml) Cointreau
Dash of mezcal (optional)
1½ oz (45 ml) tequila, preferably añejo (aged)
Rim a rock glass and set aside. In a shaker, add enough ice to fill a rocks glass and the ingredients. Shake vigorously and pour into the rimmed rock glass. Add more ice if needed.
CHILI SALT
1 medium-length dried red chile or 1 chipotle, coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon kosher or sea salt
In a mortar, grind the chopped dried chile. Add the salt to it and stir to combine.
NOTE: For an extra smoky flavor, make the Chili Salt with a chipotle, which is a dried, smoked jalapèno.
In this Asian-inspired margarita from Buddakan the pronounced vegetal flavor of silver tequila is enhanced by the refreshing and cooling cucumber—the perfect counterpoint to the pleasantly spicy simple syrup.
2 oz (60 g) piece Japanese, “baby,” or English cucumber ,ends trimmed
2 oz (60 ml) silver tequila
¾ oz (37 ml) triple sec
¾ oz (37 ml) equal parts fresh lemon and lime juice
1 oz (30 ml) Thai Chili Syrup (page 21)
2 or 3 cucumber wheels or a cucumber spear, for garnish
Peel the cucumber piece in strips (leaving half the skin on). Coarsely chop the cucumber and place in a food processor or blender. Pulse on low speed until crushed. Fill a rocks glass with ice. Place 2 tablespoons of the fresh crushed cucumber and the rest of the ingredients in an iced shaker. Shake vigorously and strain into the rocks glass. If serving in a margarita glass, place a cucumber wheel on the rim of the glass. Garnish with 2 or 3 cucumber wheels on a cocktail pick or with a 4-inch (10-cm)-long cucumber spear.
In this Asian-inspired Margarita from Jujube, spicy-sweet Ginger Syrup and distinctive Thai basil blends perfectly with the assertive flavor of silver tequila. Chocolate basil is a nice substitute for Thai basil in this refreshing drink.
3 to 5 fresh Thai basil leaves, plus 1 sprig for garnish
1 oz (30 ml) silver tequila
½ oz (15 ml) freshly squeezed orange juice
½ oz (15 ml) triple sec
½ oz (15 ml) freshly squeezed lime juice
1 oz (30 ml) Ginger Syrup (page 19)
Lime wedge, for garnish
Combine the basil leaves with two cubes of ice in a mixing glass, and muddle. Add enough ice to fill a rocks glass and the remaining ingredients and shake vigorously. Pour into a rocks glass and add additional ice if needed. Garnish with the sprig of Thai basil and/or the wedge of lime.
This Asian twist on a Latin classic from the Cinnamon Club introduces sweetness of mango without diminishing the refreshing taste of citrus and mint. Mango syrup has an intensity of mango flavor that can’t be duplicated, but don’t hesitate to make this mojito if you don’t have any on hand. Simply add an additional ¼ ounce (7 ml) of mango juice and a splash of simple syrup. It will still be delicious.
3 lime wedges
½ teaspoon demerara sugar or other raw sugar
5 to 7 fresh mint leaves, plus 1 sprig of mint for garnish
1¾ oz (50 ml) white rum
2 teaspoons mango syrup
1 oz (30 ml) mango juice
Club soda, for topping
Mango slice, for garnish (optional)
Fill a collins glass with crushed ice. Squeeze the lime wedges over a mixing glass, then drop in the squeezed wedges. Add the sugar and mint leaves, and muddle. Add ice, the rum, mango syrup and mango juice. Shake vigorously and strain into the collins glass. Top with club soda and stir briefly. Garnish with the sprig of mint and mango slice, if using. Serve with a straw.
The sting of this classic tiki bar favorite is soothed by the sweetness of almond-flavored orgeat syrup and orange juice. This drink may bring back memories of your favorite neighborhood Chinese-American restaurant—the type that offers grilled cheese on the kid’s menu and that is perhaps sadly a dying breed.
1 oz (30 ml) light rum
¾ oz (22 ml) brandy
½ oz (15 ml) orgeat or almond syrup
1¼ oz (37 ml) freshly squeezed orange juice
¾ oz (22 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice
½ oz (15 ml) Simple Syrup (page 19)
½ oz (15 ml) 151 rum
Orange slice and maraschino cherry, for garnish
Fill a collins glass with ice. Combine all of the ingredients, except the 151 rum, in an ice-filled shaker. Shake vigorously and strain into the collins glass. Top with the 151 rum and add the garnish.