In the wee hours of March 4, 2005, Martha Stewart walked out of Alderson Federal Prison Camp a free woman, her debt to society paid. Snapshots showed her boarding a private jet in a gorgeous gray-and-cream crocheted poncho made for her by fellow inmate Xiomara Hernandez (see Sources). The poncho became an overnight sensation. Web sites featuring interpretations of the pattern crashed from user overload, and collector replicas are still fetching high bids on online auctions.
My homage to the grand vizier of craft cuts a few corners; in fact, there is no knitting or crocheting involved, just two seams on the sewing machine. Warm enough for a Connecticut winter, the fleece poncho is constructed in a “work party orange” color with a black-and-white striped liner for that “bustin’ out of the joint” look. Detailed embellishments include a hand-stamped ribbon with Martha’s prison number and fierce metal grommet holes around the neckline. M. Diddy—this one’s for you!
SUPPLIES
45-inch-square piece black-and-white striped cotton fabric
Hot glue gun or fusible fabric tape
5½ yards (1-inch-wide) orange grosgrain ribbon
Scissors
Fabric chalk
48-inch-square piece orange polar fleece
Straight pins
Needle (or sewing machine) and orange sewing thread
10 (⅜–inch) silver metal grommets
2¼ yards black elastic cording
Numerical rubber stamps or small stencils
Permanent stamp ink or fabric paint
6-inch-wide white cotton ribbon trim for prisoner ID number
HOW TO
1. Lay the striped fabric liner on a flat surface, right side up.
2. Using a glue gun or fusible fabric tape, attach the grosgrain ribbon to all four sides of the poncho liner. The ribbon should extend horizontally ½ inch beyond each edge of the fabric to create a decorative trim edge. Let the glue cool.
3. Fold the poncho liner in half, the top edge folding down to meet the bottom edge. Fold in half again with the left edge coming over to meet the right.
4. Pin the neck hole template to the upper left corner of the fabric square. Use fabric chalk to trace the template. Cut out the neck hole.
5. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 on the polar fleece layer.
6. Pin the fleece layer and the lining together at the neck opening. The lining should be print side down on top of the fleece.
7. Sew the neck seam with a ¾-inch seam allowance.
8. Cut triangular notches every inch around the neck seam to ease the fabric tension.
9. Flip the fabric right side out so the insides of the poncho meet. Adjust the liner at the neck so it can’t be seen from the outside.
10. Stitch a ¼-inch topstitch around the neck of the poncho on the right sides of the fabric for a neatly finished edge.
11. Lay out the poncho on your worktable and mark the grommet holes. I eyeballed this step, but for a uniform look, space the grommets every 4½ inches. The grommets should measure 1½ inches from the top of the neck seam.
12. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for attaching your particular brand of grommet to the poncho.
13. Lace the elastic cord through the grommet holes.
14. Use rubber stamps and a permanent fabric ink to write your prisoner ID insignia on the white ribbon trim. Stencils or embroidery would work well for this finishing step, too.
15. Glue your ID number to the front of the poncho. I, of course, picked out the perfect number for my poncho: 55170-054, Martha’s number when she went away.
