Ardéchois à la crème de marrons et ganache au caramel salé

( Chestnut cake with salted caramel ganache )

To fully appreciate this cake, you need to take it back to its original setting in the Ardèche area, in the Rhône-Alpes region. This region is famed for its local produce, green pastures and rich cuisine — think quenelles, gratin dauphinois, cheese fondue, frog legs, polenta rabbit stew, rissoles savoyardes (puff pastry turnovers with a pear filling) and, of course, wines and cheeses. From Paul Bocuse to the Troisgros brothers, it is home to some of the most acclaimed Michelin-starred restaurants and is, without a doubt, the gastronomic capital of France.

As it happens, the whole maternal side of my family originates and still lives in this amazing region. Every time I return to France to visit my aunt and uncle in a beautiful medieval village called Crémieu, I am invariably treated to a banquet of some of the best traditional French food and wines imaginable, from the most outrageously rich gratins to an array of incredibly subtle cheeses.

Now, back to our chestnut and caramel cake. Yes, it is a decadent cake with its buttery, earthy, slightly chewy crumb and bitter chocolate glaze, but it is possibly one of the best desserts to enjoy with friends and family as you sit around a dining table in front of a fire on a long, cold winter’s night, solving all of the world’s problems.

Serves 10

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) tinned sweetened chestnut cream (crème de marrons), at room temperature

100 g (3½ oz) unsalted butter, at room temperature

4 eggs

2 egg yolks

40 ml (1¼ fl oz) rum

3 tablespoons honey

100 g (3½ oz) plain (all-purpose) flour, sifted

1 teaspoon baking powder

100 g (3½ oz) candied chestnuts (marrons glacés), coarsely chopped

80 g (2¾ oz) raw almonds, coarsely chopped

Salted caramel ganache

80 ml (2¾ fl oz) whipping cream (35% fat)

80 g (2¾ oz) caster (superfine) sugar

100 g (3½ oz) dark chocolate (75% minimum cocoa solids), chopped

generous pinch of fleur de sel or other salt flakes

L Preheat the oven to 170°C (340°F). Lightly grease a 25 cm (10 in) round cake tin.

L Using an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, beat the chestnut cream and butter on medium speed for 3–4 minutes, or until smooth and creamy. Both the chestnut cream and butter must be at room temperature, or the butter will harden and won’t emulsify properly with the chestnut cream. Add the eggs and egg yolks, one at a time, allowing each addition to be incorporated before adding the next. Add the rum and honey, then increase the speed to high and beat for another 5 minutes, or until light and fluffy. Remove the bowl from the machine, then fold in the sifted flour, baking powder, candied chestnuts and almonds until just combined. Don’t be tempted to mix the batter too much once the flour has been added, or the water in the mixture will develop the gluten in the flour, resulting in a cake with a tough, elastic crumb.

L Pour the mixture into the prepared cake tin. Bake on the bottom shelf of the oven for 40 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. Remove from the oven and allow to cool before removing from the tin.

L To make the salted caramel ganache, put the cream in a small saucepan and bring to the boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat and set aside. Put the sugar in a heavy-based saucepan and cook over medium heat, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon. When the sugar begins to caramelise, reduce the heat to low and continue cooking until the caramel begins to foam and smoke. At this stage, increase the heat to high, then slowly pour the warm cream onto the caramel. Be very careful when you do this, as the difference in temperature will create a lot of hot steam, so keep your hands as far away as you can from the caramel. Once well combined, remove from the heat.

L Put the chocolate in a small heatproof bowl. Pour the hot caramel over the chocolate, stirring continuously, and combine well. Using a hand-held stick blender, process until smooth and shiny, then stir in the salt.

L Place the cake on a flat serving plate and pour the chocolate ganache over the top, starting from the middle and making your way to the side. If you like, decorate with chocolate curls or candied chestnuts. This cake is delicious with a glass of Champagne or sweet wine.

tip

It is important that you use chocolate with a high percentage of cocoa (less sugar) to reduce the sweetness of the salted caramel ganache. The salt will balance the bitterness of both the burnt caramel and chocolate.