Gâteau à l’huile d’olive, au citron confit et à la lavande

( Olive oil cake with candied lemons and lavender )

Gâteau à l’huile, yoghurt cake, quatre-quarts … there are dozens of variations of what are commonly known as pound cakes, all with their own origins and characteristics. This version has grown exponentially in popularity largely due to increased concerns about obesity and cardiovascular disease. With no butter, and therefore no cholesterol, this cake — long ignored by bakers anywhere north of the Mediterranean basin — seems to have become a perfect ‘guilt-free’ indulgence.

Serves 8

note : Start this recipe a day ahead.

200 g (7 oz) plain (all-purpose) flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

150 g (5½ oz) caster (superfine) sugar

½ teaspoon fine salt

2 eggs

100 ml (3½ fl oz) full-cream milk

100 ml (3½ fl oz) virgin olive oil

50 ml (1¾ fl oz) Limoncello or Grand Marnier

lavender essence, to taste

Candied lemons

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) caster (superfine) sugar

2 vanilla beans, halved lengthways

3 lemons, cut into 3 mm (¹/₈ in) slices

L Using an electric mixer fitted with a paddle attachment, combine the flour, baking powder, sugar and salt on low speed. Lightly beat the eggs, milk, olive oil and alcohol in a bowl until combined. With the motor running, gradually add the egg mixture to the dry mixture, scraping down the side of the bowl as you go. Once combined, increase the speed to high and beat for another 2–3 minutes, or until emulsified. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours.

L Meanwhile, to make the candied lemons, put 500 ml (17 fl oz) water, the sugar and vanilla beans in a saucepan and bring to the boil over medium heat. Add the sliced lemons, then reduce the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes, or until the lemon skin is translucent and soft. Remove from the heat, transfer to a heatproof bowl and cover immediately with plastic wrap. Set aside until cool, then refrigerate overnight.

L Preheat the oven to 170°C (340°F). Lightly grease and flour a 25 cm (10 in) round or a 10 x 25 cm (4 x 10 in) rectangular cake tin. Drain the lemon slices, reserving the syrup and vanilla beans. Arrange some of the candied lemon slices in a regular pattern to cover the base of the prepared tin. Coarsely chop the remaining lemons.

L Remove the batter from the fridge and stir in 80 g (2³/₄ oz) of the chopped lemons and a few drops of lavender essence, to taste. The amount will vary depending on the type of essence you have but you need to be sparing with essences in general; they are meant to add a gentle floral touch — too much will ruin the cake.

L Pour the batter over the lemon slices, then bake for 30 minutes, or until a skewer inserted into the cake comes out clean. Remove the tin from the oven and pour 100 ml (3½ fl oz) of reserved lemon syrup over the top of the cake. Refrigerate immediately for at least 3 hours. To unmould, place the cake in a 200°C (400°F) oven for 5 minutes, then invert onto a serving plate. The cake is best eaten freshly baked, although it tastes delicious reheated the day after.

Osmosis is a process whereby a light solvent (in this case, water and essences) naturally moves through a semipermeable membrane into a solvent with a higher density (the thick sugar syrup) until each solvent reaches the same density. In the instance of our candied lemons, the osmosis movement pushes the oil and water out of the lemon through the pectin membrane of the skin, and is replaced by the thicker syrup (reverse osmosis). When candying whole fruit, this process is repeated several times with syrup of ever-increasing density (more sugar).