Pets de nonne citronnés à l’anis (Anise and lemon nun’s puffs)

Pets de nonne citronnés à l’anis

( Anise and lemon nun’s puffs )

These delicious bite-sized fritters are one of the rare French specialties that failed to gain widespread popularity overseas, probably due in part to their slightly irreverent name (which literally translates as ‘nun’s fart’). Pets de nonne first appeared in gastronomic literature around the sixteenth century and while the origin of its name is steeped in folklore, it at least gives us an insight into the dubious sense of humour at the time. Serve these little morsels as a delicious mid-afternoon snack or for breakfast, dunked into a large bowl of café au lait.

Makes 100

300 g (10½ oz) caster (superfine) sugar

1 teaspoon ground star anise

375 g (13 oz) Choux Pastry, rested at room temperature for 1 hour

finely grated zest of 2 lemons

2 vanilla beans, halved lengthways, seeds scraped

½ teaspoon baking powder

vegetable oil, for deep-frying

L Put the sugar and star anise in a large bowl, combine well and set aside. Put the choux pastry in another bowl, then add the lemon zest, vanilla bean seeds (discard the beans) and baking powder and beat with a wooden spoon until well combined.

L Heat the oil in a deep-fryer or a deep saucepan until 180°C (350°F). Spoon the choux pastry into a piping bag fitted with a 1 cm (½ in) plain nozzle. Hold the filled piping bag in one hand and a small paring knife in the other hand and, working in batches of 10 to 15 at a time, pipe the mixture into the hot oil, cutting close to the nozzle every 2 cm (³/₄ in) to make small balls. During cooking, make sure that the temperature of the oil stays at 180°C (350°F) — if it cools too much, the puffs may become greasy. Be aware that the further you are from the oil, the more likely you are to get scalded when the choux is dropped into the hot oil.

L Using a flat spatula, gently move the puffs around in the oil, constantly pushing them down into the oil so they cook evenly. It is important to fry the puffs reasonably slowly so that they cook all the way through.

L When they are golden, remove with a slotted spoon, drain on paper towel, then immediately toss the puffs in the bowl with the sugar and star anise mixture until well coated. Serve warm or cool on wire racks until at room temperature.

tip

Caster (superfine) sugar flavoured with various spices, teas and fragrant flowers (lavender, jasmine tea, vanilla bean seeds, citrus zests) can be sprinkled on many desserts and sweet breads, including these puffs. Pour caster sugar and the flavouring of choice into an airtight container, then cover with the lid and shake well. Keep the sugar in your pantry, shaking it from time to time. If you are using fragrant flowers or leaves, always use dried, edible flowers, remembering that a lot of beautifully fragrant flowers can be poisonous, such as frangipanis or azaleas.