Batons gruyère-parmesan

( Cheese sticks )

A typical French breakfast usually consists of a croissant or a toasted baguette tartine with jam, or some other sweet pastry — I, for one, would never think to eat anything savoury such as these cheese sticks, instead reserving them for an apéritif or afternoon snack, maybe with a few green olives and a glass of red wine. In Australia, however, they have become very popular as a quick snack for breakfast. I remember how I used to shake my head in bewilderment as I watched customers walking out of the shop early in the morning with a few cheese sticks in one hand and a coffee in the other. It didn’t take me long to change my mind. Now, I am often caught early in the morning, scavenging all the broken cheese sticks and nibbling on the burnt gruyère left over on the baking trays.

Makes 15

300 g (10½ oz) gruyère cheese, grated

80 g (2³/₄ oz) parmesan cheese, grated

3 eggs

pinch of fine salt

1 kg (2 lb 4 oz) cold Puff Pastry, 5 single turns

2 teaspoons finely ground black pepper

L Combine the gruyère and parmesan in a small bowl and put in the freezer for 1 hour. When the cheese has frozen, place on a chopping board and chop into the smallest pieces possible, then return to the freezer.

L Meanwhile, to make an egg wash, lightly beat the eggs and salt in a small bowl and set aside. Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Line two baking trays with baking paper.

L Roll out the puff pastry on a lightly floured work surface into a 3 mm (¹/₈ in) thick rectangle measuring about 20 x 60 cm (8 x 24 in). Remember to keep moving the dough and dust with extra flour when necessary so that it doesn’t stick to your work surface. Towards the end of rolling, feel free to use your hands to stretch the pastry into shape.

L Brush a small amount of egg wash over the top of the pastry, then sprinkle a generous amount of the chopped cheese evenly over the top, going all the way to the edges. Using a rolling pin, gently roll over the top of the cheese to make sure it sticks to the dough during the twisting process. Sprinkle the pepper evenly over the top of the cheese.

L With one long side of the pastry facing you, and using a large knife, cut the pastry into fifteen 4 cm (1½ in) wide strips. Take one strip and place it on the work surface, cheese side down and with the long side facing you. Using your palms, gently roll one end of the strip in a downwards direction while rolling the other end in an upwards direction. Lengthen the twist to about 20 cm (8 in) by rolling it with both your hands, working from the middle out. Place on the lined trays, spacing them about 4 cm (1½ in) apart.

L Bake on the bottom shelf of the oven for 20 minutes, then reduce the oven temperature to 160°C (320°F) and cook for another 15 minutes, or until dry. It is essential that the cheese sticks are crisp and flaky so make sure they are cooked through. If you find they are browning too quickly, place a piece of foil loosely over the top and continue baking until crisp. Remove from the oven and cool on a wire rack for at least 30 minutes before serving. These cheese sticks, as well as most pastries made from puff, freeze very well prior to being baked, so make more than you need and freeze the rest to use another time.

tip

Gruyère is the perfect cheese to use in cheese sticks because it has a mild flavour with just the right amount of salt, it adds a hint of sweetness and, more importantly, it stays relatively dry during baking. The only other cheese suitable for cheese sticks is cheddar. Never use a soft pizza cheese, such as provolone or mozzarella, because they are too soft when melted and will stop the puff pastry from drying out properly.