Passata di Pomodoro

• • • Makes 4 to 5 quarts • • •

Tomato passata, or puree, is, for many Italians, the most essential item in the pantry. It is the beginning of a good sauce (see Cook’s Note) and the foundation for countless soups and stews. For a quick weeknight meal, I sauté peppers, such as the sweet-and-sour peppers on page 38, in passata and then fry eggs in the mixture. When cooked down slowly in the oven, passata becomes another pantry staple: conserva (tomato paste; page 119). Yes, you can buy canned or bottled tomato puree, but it will never have that fresh flavor of passata canned at the end of summer. Even if I sometimes skip the canning of whole tomatoes, I always make sure to put up a few quarts of passata. I just like knowing that they are there, at the ready.

20 pounds (9 kg) sauce tomatoes, such as San Marzano, Roma, or other plum tomatoes

8 to 10 tablespoons freshly squeezed or bottled lemon juice

4 to 5 teaspoons fine sea salt

Equipment

Tomato or food mill

4 or 5 sterilized 1-quart jars and their lids (if using a pressure canner, you can skip the step of sterilizing the jars and lids and simply wash them with hot soapy water)

Basic water-bath canning equipment (see page 15) or pressure-canning equipment (see page 19) (see Cook’s Note)

1 • Set up the tomato mill according to the manufacturer’s instructions. For this amount of tomatoes, I recommend a larger mill with a hopper, such as the Squeezo Strainer. Position a bowl to catch the tomato puree.

2 • Slice the stem end off the tomatoes. Cut the tomatoes into quarters and put them into a large nonreactive saucepot. Use two pots if they don’t all fit; or simmer in batches. Cover and bring the tomatoes to a simmer over medium-high heat. They will soon begin to release liquid. Cook, stirring a few times to prevent scorching, until the tomatoes are spappolate, which means until their pulp just begins to soften and break down, 15 to 20 minutes. With a slotted spoon, transfer the tomatoes to a large colander set in the sink and let drain for 10 to 15 minutes to release excess liquid. This step will keep your passata from being watery.

3 • Pass the tomatoes through the mill, catching the puree in a large bowl. Discard the skins and seeds. Transfer the puree to a large saucepot and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Boil for anywhere from 5 to 15 minutes, depending on how thick the puree is. The consistency should be thinner than sauce but not watery. Take care not to overcook or you will lose the fresh flavor of the passata.

4 • Place 2 tablespoons lemon juice and 1 teaspoon salt into the bottom of each jar. Ladle the hot passata into the jars, leaving ½ inch headspace. Screw the lids on tightly. If using a boiling-water bath, process the jars for 45 minutes (see Water-Bath Canning, page 15). If using a pressure canner, follow the manufacturer’s instructions, and process at 10 pounds of pressure for 15 minutes (see Pressure Canning, page 18).

5 • Remove the jars and set them upright on a clean kitchen towel. Let the jars cool to room temperature before storing in a cool, dark place for up to 1 year. Refrigerate after opening and use within 1 week.

Cook’s Note • Tomato passata can be processed either in a boiling water bath or a pressure canner. Be sure to follow the proper instructions according to the method you choose.

Cook’s Note • To make simple tomato sauce from passata, sauté a clove or two of garlic in olive oil in a saucepan until fragrant. Pour in the passata (watch for spattering) and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook at a gentle simmer for about 30 minutes, until thickened to a sauce consistency. Season to taste with salt. Remove from the heat and stir in a little chopped fresh basil.