Pasta alla Gricia

• • • Makes 4 servings • • •

Four ingredients make up this classic Roman pasta dish, so success depends on the quality of those ingredients. Choose a good brand of dried pasta (I like Rustichella d’Abruzzo, Cocco, or De Cecco) and use freshly ground pepper and freshly grated cheese. If you have made your own guanciale, now is the time to enjoy your handiwork.

8 ounces (227 g) guanciale (page 229), cut into 1-inch strips or diced

Lots of freshly ground black pepper

1 pound (454 g) rigatoni, penne rigate, or spaghetti

1 cup (100 g) freshly grated Pecorino Romano

1 • Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and salt it generously.

2 • Put the guanciale in a large, dry cast-iron or heavy-bottomed skillet. Set over low heat and let the guanciale warm up gradually. After about 3 minutes, it will start to sizzle quietly. Continue to cook, stirring from time to time, until the guanciale is lightly browned and has rendered some of its fat, about 15 minutes. Shower the guanciale with freshly ground pepper—add more than you think you should. This is a peppery dish.

3 • Cook the pasta according to the package instructions until very al dente—slightly underdone. As the pasta is cooking, scoop out a ladleful of the cooking water and add it to the skillet with the guanciale. Stir well, scraping up any browned bits from the pan.

4 • Drain the pasta, reserving a little of the cooking water. Transfer the pasta to the skillet and stir gently but thoroughly to combine it with the guanciale and pan sauce. Add a splash or two more of the reserved cooking water, if necessary, and continue to cook for a minute or two, until the pasta has absorbed some of the liquid and is al dente.

5 • Spoon the pasta and sauce into bowls and sprinkle the cheese on top. Serve immediately.