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1

Cut the sides. Cut one melamine board at a 45-degree angle and use it as a pattern to mark the others for cutting. Mark your cutting line on a strip of painter’s tape—the tape reduces chipping as you cut.

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2

Position the shelf supports. Mark where the edge of each shelf support is located and mark a centerline for screw locations. Drill three 9/64-in. screw holes for each support.

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3

Fasten the shelf supports. Drive 1-1/4-in. screws through the sides and into the shelf supports. A clamp makes this step much easier.

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4

Assemble the unit. Drill holes in the top, then drive cabinet screws to fasten the top to the sides.

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5

Install the rails. Drill screw holes in the sides and fasten the three rails. You’ll need to raise the unit off the floor in order to screw the top and bottom rails.

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6

Paint the cut edges. For looks and moisture protection, apply two coats of paint. If you slop a little paint onto the melamine surface, just wipe it off with a damp rag.

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7

Add glides. Nail plastic furniture glides to the bottom of the sides to keep them from resting directly on damp surfaces, especially concrete.

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8

Install the first unit. Mark the stud locations with painter’s tape and set the first unit in place. To ensure that the unit is level and square, check both the top and one side with a level.

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9

Add as many units as you like. With the first unit installed square and level, you can simply butt the next unit against it. Screw all units to studs at the top and bottom rungs.

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10

Cut the shelves. A bolt cutter is the best tool for cutting wire shelving to length. A hacksaw or a metal-cutting blade in a jigsaw will also do the job.

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11

Anchor the shelves. Fasten each shelf to the wall with at least two clips. When you want to fasten the clip to a stud, simply cut off the drywall anchor part of the clip and drive a screw through the clip.

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12

Fasten the shelf fronts. Lock the shelves in place with coaxial cable staples. End caps give the shelves a finished look.