Siyediyeh

salmon and saffron rice stew

Siyediyeh literally means “fish and rice” in Arabic, which are the main components of this Lebanese fisherman’s stew that combines very fresh fish, homemade fish stock, and long-grain rice. I have refined the traditional version a bit, and have included saffron and turmeric to flavor the rice and turn it a gorgeous golden color, and have added a crunchy nut topping and butter sauce. My Auntie Layla inspired this dish, after making a similar version for a family party. I instantly loved Siyediyeh and now make it frequently, often serving it with my peppery watercress Jarjir Salata. MAKES 6 TO 12 SERVINGS

FISH STOCK

2 pounds fish heads and bones from a non-oily white fish (snapper, sole, or bass)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 large Vidalia onion, finely diced

3 shallots, finely diced

1 large leek, washed thoroughly, white and light green parts sliced

2 celery stalks, sliced

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 cup dry white wine

3 sprigs fresh flat-leaf parsley

3 sprigs fresh thyme

1 dried bay leaf

1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns

RICE

¼ cup olive oil

1 teaspoon saffron threads

1 large onion, finely diced

2 cups long-grain rice

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

TOASTED NUTS

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

⅓ cup pine nuts

¼ cup blanched whole almonds

¼ cup slivered almonds

¼ cup marcona almonds

¼ cup cashews

½ teaspoon sea salt

SALMON

3 pounds salmon fillets

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 teaspoon ground white pepper

SAUCE

Remaining fish stock

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

½ teaspoon sea salt

1 tablespoon fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, minced

In a large mixing bowl, soak the saffron threads in 2 cups of hot water. Set aside to steep for approximately 2 hours. Reserve for the rice.

Make the stock: Remove the gills and any blood from the fish heads, and thoroughly wash the bones and heads under cold running water. Cut the fish bones into 4- to 5-inch pieces and set aside in a bowl. Heat the olive oil and butter in an 8-quart pot over medium heat until shimmering. Add the onion, shallots, leek, and celery to the pot and season with the salt. Stir to completely coat the aromatics with the butter and oil and cook until softened and translucent, 5 to 7 minutes. Increase the heat to high, add the fish heads, and cook for 5 to 7 minutes. Pour the white wine and 6 cups of cold water into the pot to completely cover the bones. Add the parsley, thyme, bay leaf, and whole peppercorns and bring to a rolling boil, skimming any foam that rises to the surface. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, continuously skim off any foam as it cooks uncovered, for about 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes, turn off the heat, and allow the stock to settle for about 5 minutes. Carefully strain the stock through a large fine-mesh sieve into a 4-quart stockpot. Reserve 2 cups of stock for cooking the rice.

Prepare the rice: Heat the olive oil into a large, heavy-bottomed 8-quart stockpot over medium heat. Once the oil is shimmering, add the onion and stir to coat in the oil. Cook, stirring occasionally, until softened and light golden, about 5 to 7 minutes.

Add the rice, season with salt and turmeric, stir to coat in the oil and onion, and toast for a few minutes to release a nutty aroma. Strain the reserved saffron soaking liquid through a fine-mesh sieve over the rice, then pound the threads in a stone mortar and pestle into a smooth paste, and add the paste to the rice. Pour in 2 cups of fish stock and stir to combine. Cover the pot with a lid and bring to a rolling boil over high heat. Reduce the heat and simmer, covered, for 15 to 20 minutes until all of the liquid has been absorbed. Remove from the heat and fluff the rice with a fork. Set aside.

While the rice is cooking, prepare the salmon and toast the nuts. Heat a grill or grill pan to 400°F. Lay a large sheet of aluminum foil in front of you and place the fish on top. Lightly drizzle with the olive oil and season with the salt and white pepper. Then, place another sheet of foil over the fish to create a pouch. Fold the edges in to tightly seal the fish. Place the pouch on the hot grill, cover, and cook for 15 minutes until the fish is opaque and flaky. Remove from the heat and let the fish rest in the foil for a few minutes, then carefully open the foil packet and let the fish rest for 3 to 5 minutes.

Toast the nuts: Heat the butter over medium-low heat. Add all the nuts and season with the salt. Stir to coat with the butter, then toast, tossing, until golden brown. Transfer to a plate.

Make the sauce: Reduce the remaining fish stock by half over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and stir in the butter and lemon juice to make the sauce. Season with the sea salt and parsley. Remove from the heat and pour the sauce into a small bowl for serving.

Just before serving, fluff the rice with a fork and spoon it onto a large serving platter. Flake the fish on top of the rice, and then scatter the toasted nuts on top. Serve hot or warm with the sauce.

Note You can swap in red snapper, halibut, or cod for the salmon, and use white, brown, basmati, or jasmine rice instead of long-grain rice.