Kousa Mahshi

stuffed kousa squash

Originating in the Middle East, kousa is a small, thin-skinned light green variety of summer squash. Previously unknown in the West, kousa is now popping up all over the States, from local farmers’ markets and stands to regional and chain grocery stores. I’m pretty lucky, though, I don’t have to go far for my squash—just to Mama’s garden!

Other than the tender, savory lamb-rice stuffing, my favorite thing about this comforting hearty dish is that it’s a two-for-one. Not only do you end up with mouthwatering stuffed squash, it also makes a very tasty tomato soup, which can be served with or without the squash. I like to pair Kousa Mahshi with my refreshing Khyar wa Banadoura; the crisp Persian cucumbers and fresh tomatoes in the salad work really well with the stewed meat and squash. If you prefer beef to lamb, feel free to use freshly ground sirloin or 80/20 percent lean meat. MAKES 6 SERVINGS (12 KOUSA SQUASH)

12 kousa squash, at room temperature

4 tablespoons (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted

2 tablespoons pure olive oil

½ pound finely ground lamb or beef

1 cup long-grain rice, rinsed in cold water, and uncooked

1 cup tomato paste

4 tablespoons finely chopped fresh mint leaves

2½ teaspoons sea salt

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 to 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Core and clean the kousa: Using a small, sharp paring knife, cut off the top stems evenly. Next, using the sharp tip of a zucchini corer (see here) trace a small circle in the center of the kousa top, and use this as your guide as you carefully continue to core the squash, scooping the flesh into a separate bowl. Remove as much of the inside flesh as possible, then clean the side walls of the squash, carefully scraping the insides, being careful not to pierce or puncture the skin. Place the cored squash in a colander and rinse with cold water so that no scraps remain inside. Drain the squashes upside down in the colander.

Make the stuffing: Heat 2 tablespoons of the melted butter and the olive oil in a medium sauté pan over medium-high heat. Once the oil and butter are shimmering, add the ground meat and cook until browned, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon to break up the meat. Once the meat has browned, remove it from the heat and transfer it to a large mixing bowl to cool.

Once the meat has cooled, add the long-grain rice to the bowl along with half of the tomato paste, 2 tablespoons of the chopped mint, 1 teaspoon of the salt, the black pepper, and the remaining 2 tablespoons melted butter. Mix with your hands until all the ingredients are fully incorporated.

Stuff the kousa: Using your hands, gently stuff each squash with the rice-meat mixture using your index finger, pressing the stuffing downward until it reaches the bottom of the squash. Make sure to stuff the squash all the way to the top without overstuffing, as this will cause the kousa to crack when it is cooked.

Cook the kousa: Fill a large pot with a gallon (16 cups) of cold water. Stir in the remaining tomato paste, 1 teaspoon salt, and lemon juice. Place each squash into the liquid, then cover the pot and place over medium-high heat. Bring the liquid to a boil, then immediately reduce the heat to low and simmer the kousa for about 30 minutes.

After 30 minutes, check the kousa for doneness by removing one squash and lightly pressing the skin with your fingertips—it should be tender to the touch without being too firm or overly soft. When sufficiently cooked, remove the remaining squash from the pot, place on a serving platter, and cover with aluminum foil to keep them warm.

Stir the remaining 2 tablespoons mint and salt into the pot of broth and simmer for just a few minutes so that the flavors can infuse into the soup. Serve hot, first ladling the broth into shallow, rimmed soup bowls and then placing the squash in the broth.

Variation For a vegetarian version, simply omit the meat.

taboulie tip! Since you will be coring the squash, make sure to select kousa that are small, slender, short, and straight, not large or crooked.

taboulie tip! Make sure that your kousa squash are at room temperature, and not cold, before coring, which will minimize the chance of the kousa squash from cracking.

taboulie tip! Once the kousa squash are completely cooked, immediately remove from the pot otherwise the squash will likely overcook and crack open