Translating literally to “stringy cheese,” Jebneh Mchallale is originally a recipe from Aleppo, Syria. One sunny summer afternoon, I was lucky to learn the preparation of this stretchy, salty, braided cheese from my Aunt Marcelle who hails from Syria. Although she showed me and Mama the preparation of string cheese just once, we were able to absorb the recipe and technique quickly, and we make this cheese often—always thinking of Aunt Marcelle. I have fond childhood memories of peeling and pulling on this very snackable cheese, which is sprinkled with tiny black nigella seeds and flavored with mahlab, a sweet spice meaning “blessed seeds.” MAKES TEN 6- TO 8-OUNCE STRING CHEESE BRAIDS
12 tablespoons all-natural canning and pickling salt (see here)
1 fresh whole egg (uncracked, for testing the salt levels, do not use an old egg)
1 tablespoon finely ground mahlab (see here)
1 tablespoon nigella seeds (see here)
5 pounds unsalted, full-fat cow’s milk “fresh curd” mozzarella cheese, at room temperature, ½ cup of the packing liquid reserved
Pour 8 cups of cold water into a large mixing bowl (preferably glass), and stir in the canning salt to dissolve. The water should be cloudy white. Carefully lower the egg into the water and salt solution; it should immediately sink to the bottom but then rise to float on the surface, indicating that there is enough salt in the water. Set the brine aside momentarily.
Pour the mahlab into one small bowl and the nigella seeds into another small bowl. Then, place one large dinner plate next to the two bowls. Add ¼ teaspoon of the mahlab and ¼ teaspoon of nigella seeds onto the center of the large dinner plate and mix to combine. Set aside.
Open the package of cheese and reserve the packing liquid. If there is no liquid, you can use cold water later. On a clean cutting board, cut the cheese into 2-inch cubes. You should have about 100 cubes.
Pour 4 tablespoons of the cheese liquid, or 4 tablespoons of cold water, into a medium saute pan on low heat. Add 10 to 12 cheese cubes (about one-tenth of the total cubes you have) into the saucepan, breaking it down with a wooden spoon and stirring constantly, until the cheese has completely melted. Then, fold the cheese over itself repeatedly until it comes together in one round mass of pliable, melted cheese.
Then, remove the cheese from the heat, scoop it up, and place it onto the center of the plate. The cheese will be hot, but it needs to be braided while still hot or it will cool and harden.
To make the braids: Press the cheese into the mahlab–nigella seed mixture on both sides, then, using your index finger, poke a hole in the middle (it will resemble a doughnut). Using your fingers, widen the hole, and spread it around the plate. Then, begin to stretch it as far as it will go without tearing, to create a large loop. Bring both ends together and stretch again to create a large double loop, continue to bring both of the ends together and then stretch, at least 7 more times, creating the thin, stretchy strands. After a total of 10 stretches and looping, tightly twist and turn the cheese in opposite directions into a braided ropelike long shape, then loop one end over and then under the other loop to make a knot (see photos opposite).
Immediately place the cheese into previously prepared brine solution so that it is completely submerged. Repeat this process with the remaining cubes, using 10 to 12 cubes each time. Once you are halfway through, discard the cheese liquid from the saucepan and add 4 tablespoons of the remaining unused cheese liquid or water to the pan.
After all of the cheese braids are submerged in the brining solution, allow them to brine for about 1 hour. After the braids have brined in the solution, they are ready to eat. Untangle the braids into long, thin strands and enjoy. Soak longer for saltier cheese. Serve the cheese at room temperature.
Note Store the cheese in resealable plastic bags in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. Or freeze in resealable plastic freezer bags for up to 3 months.
SERVING SUGGESTION Serve the cheese at room temperature by unbraiding the cheese, then separate the thin strands and pile high on a plate with Khoudra wa Kabis (here) and Ejjeh (here) or Bayd b Halyoun (here) for breakfast or as part of the Mezza.
taboulie tip! Unsalted “fresh-curd” mozzarella cheese is typically available at your local Italian market or specialty food store.
taboulie tip! Syrian string cheese is best enjoyed at room temperature. Be sure to remove it from the refrigerator ahead of time before serving.