Jeben

cow’s milk arabic basket cheese

Simply translated as “cheese,” Jeben is the Lebanese cheese of choice, and can be served at any meal, whether as part of a simple breakfast with fresh vegetables and Khebez Arabi (here), or as a component in the mezza selection at lunch or dinnertime. Snow white, semisoft, and slightly chewy, this rich unripened curd cheese is made from fresh cow’s milk, and can be left unsalted for desserts and other sweet preparations, or can be lightly salted for savory dishes. My Auntie Mona is always considered “Queen of the Jibneh,” and whenever I would stop by her house, she would joyfully announce to me that she had just made jeben (always the traditional way, molded in plastic baskets for a wicker-texture on the outside)—my absolute favorite cheese! Over plenty of cheese and lots of conversation, we would pass the afternoons together—an experience I still treasure today. Make some quality time for this incredible homemade cheese, and make sure to use the freshest milk you can—preferably purchased the day of or day before you plan to make the jeben. MAKES FOUR 4-OUNCE BASKET CHEESE ROUNDS, OR ONE 1-POUND LARGE BASKET CHEESE

1 gallon (16 cups) fresh whole milk, at room temperature (it will take at least 1 to 2 hours to come to room temperature)

1 tablespoon liquid rennet or 1 junket rennet tablet (see here), dissolved in ¼ cup cold water

Sea salt

4 tablespoons all-natural canning and pickling salt (see here)

Pour the milk into a 6- or 7-quart heavy-bottomed pot and place over low heat for 5 to 7 minutes just until it is warm, between 95° and 100°F. Remove from the heat and cool at room temperature.

With long, circular movements around the circumference of the pot, stir in the liquid rennet gently. Then, allow the milk to cool and set, uncovered, at room temperature for about 4 hours, until it registers between 80 and 85°F. The milk should appear firm and will form a curd block in the center of the pot with a thin, watery layer of liquid whey surrounding its outer edges. Using your fingers, gently break up the milk solids by swishing and swirling your fingers through the curds in a circular motion, separating it from the whey into small pebblelike pieces that resemble cottage cheese. Do not stir, squeeze, or whisk the curds.

At this point, return the pot to the stovetop over low heat and gently warm, uncovered, for about 5 minutes; the temperature should read between 95° and 100°F, and the milk should be tepid. The whey will start to separate from the curds and the liquid will become slightly pale yellow. Once the 5 minutes has elapsed, immediately turn off the heat.

Line a large stainless steel strainer with a drawstring cotton bag or pillowcase (see note below). Place bag in the sink. Open the bag as wide as possible and ladle the cheese into the bag, lifting the bag a few times to release air. Move quickly, so that the cheese does not become cold. Press down on the bag, using the palms of your hands, and push as much liquid as possible out of the cheese. Then, using your hands, collect about 1 cup of the cheese curds and mold them into a round shape until smooth on all sides. Squeeze the cheese between the palms of your hands to release as much liquid as possible, creating a 2-inch-thick cheese round. Place the cheese under a clean portion of the bag and repeat with remaining curds; you should have 4 equal-size cheese rounds. Place heavy plates or other objects on top of the cloth bag and weigh the cheese down for 3 to 6 hours to remove excess liquid, flipping cheese over halfway through, until it is somewhat firm to the touch.

Depending on your use, you can leave the cheese unsalted, or salt to taste. You can also brine the cheese, which will keep it fresh, by boiling the canning salt with 2 cups of water, then allowing it to cool completely. Once the brine is cool, transfer the cheese into a 16-ounce wide-mouth sterilized canning jar and submerge entirely in the brine, leaving 2 inches at the top of the jar. Tightly seal the jar and keep refrigerated for up to 1 week.

Note You will need a cooking thermometer, one 16-ounce wide-mouth sterilized canning jar, 1 clean cotton muslin drawstring bag or a clean cotton standard-size pillowcase. This recipe can be easily doubled.