Even more than fruitcake, coconut cake is a southern Christmas tradition. By the nineteenth century, railroads transported special treats once found only in port cities to towns all over the South, and coconut was one that arrived in December. The work involved in cracking and grating the coconut also made coconut cake a special-occasion dessert. And the seven-minute frosting traditionally used can flop into a grainy mess on humid days, which abound until late fall, so winter was the ideal time to make the cake. After I burned out a mixer and spent hours turning out a gluey mass of frosting, I came up with this easier version. It’s not the same as my grandmother’s, but it’s still beautiful and delicious.
2 cups sifted cake flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
3 large eggs, separated
10 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
3 cups sugar, divided
2/3 cup canned coconut milk, well shaken (not reduced-fat or fat-free)
2 teaspoons vanilla, divided
2 cups sour cream (not reduced-fat or fat-free)
2 1/2 cups flaked, sweetened frozen coconut, thawed but still cold, divided
Preheat the oven to 350°. Butter and flour 2 (9-inch) cake pans.
In a small bowl, sift together the flour, baking powder, and salt.
Place the egg whites in a clean, dry bowl and beat them with an electric mixer until they’re stiff but not dry.
In another clean bowl, using an electric mixer with clean beaters, cream the butter and 1 1/2 cups of the sugar until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolks and beat well. Combine the coconut milk and 1 teaspoon of the vanilla in a small bowl and stir into the yolk mixture alternately with the flour mixture until fully combined. Using a spatula, fold in a third of the egg whites, then gently fold in the remaining egg whites. Don’t overmix.
Divide the batter evenly between the 2 prepared pans and bake for 25 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center of each layer comes out clean. Cool the cakes in the pans for 10 minutes, then turn them out onto wire racks to cool completely.
While the cakes are cooling, prepare the frosting. In a medium bowl, stir together the remaining 1 1/2 cups sugar and 1 teaspoon vanilla, the sour cream, and 2 1/4 cups of the coconut. Refrigerate for 30 minutes.
To prepare the cake, slice both layers horizontally with a long serrated bread knife to create 4 layers. Place 1 layer, cut side up, on a serving plate. Using a wooden skewer, carefully poke several holes completely through the layer. Poke straight down and pull straight up to avoid tearing the cake. Spread about one-quarter of the frosting on the bottom layer. Repeat with 2 more layers. Place the top layer cut-side down and do not poke holes in it. Spread the remaining frosting on the top only (not on the sides), then sprinkle the top with the remaining 1/4 cup coconut.
Cover the cake and refrigerate it for at least 2 hours but preferably overnight. Serve straight from the refrigerator and refrigerate any leftovers.