I respect my friend Elaine Maisner immensely: She’s a brilliant book editor at the University of North Carolina Press, she’s a devoted wife and mother, and she’s an accomplished home cook. When she and I discussed our plan for this book, one of the first things I said to her was, “I don’t want to include any stupid recipes; you know what I mean?” I meant that I wanted to write and develop only recipes with peaches that make sense, not recipes for dishes with peaches tossed in (peach meat-loaf, anyone? No thank you!). I probably spent more time thinking about the kinds of ways that the sweet freshness of peaches complements savory dishes, from light salads to roasted pork, than I did working on anything else. And I can promise you, there’s not a single stupid recipe in the bunch.
Both of these preparations are—yes, simple—interpretations of the classic Italian prosciutto and melon appetizer, which likely originated in Parma, where the curing of hams is an ancient specialty. The point of it is to give guests (and yourself) something delicious to whet the palate or something to snack on with a nice glass of wine. You can wrap slices of ripe peach in salty, velvety prosciutto, or you can get a little fancy and grill the peach wedges first.
MAKES 8 SERVINGS
FOR THE EASIEST
4 peaches
4 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto (about 4 long slices)
Halve and pit the peaches, then cut each half lengthwise into thirds. You should have 24 wedges.
Tear the prosciutto lengthwise into 24 long strips. Wrap each strip around a peach wedge. Secure with toothpicks if you like.
FOR THE EASY
4 peaches, quartered and pitted
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
4 ounces thinly sliced prosciutto (about 4 long slices)
4 ounces crumbled feta cheese
16 basil leaves
Balsamic vinegar for drizzling (optional)
Preheat the grill to about 400°. Toss the peach quarters with the olive oil to coat. Oil the grill grates and grill the peaches until slightly tender and showing grill marks, about 2–3 minutes per side. Transfer to a platter until cool enough to handle.
Tear the prosciutto lengthwise into 16 long strips. Spread a small amount of the crumbled feta cheese on one side of each peach wedge, lay a basil leaf on top, and wrap with a strip of prosciutto. Secure with a toothpick if you like. Drizzle with a little balsamic vinegar, if using.
This is a really fun and unique appetizer inspired by the great Japanese tempura tradition. Tempura is one of the most common cooking techniques in Japan, and there are two competing theories as to its origins: one is that it was brought to Japan by Jesuit missionaries from Portugal in the sixteenth century, and the other is that it was introduced by the Chinese to Zen monks about 300 years ago. The idea behind it is to lightly, delicately enrobe food in a lacy fried coating to enhance its flavor and crunch. It’s very easy and fun to make, and the peach wedges hold up very well to the light frying. You can make it as a fun summer appetizer with honey for dipping or with fresh greens drizzled with a Dijon vinaigrette, or you can serve the wedges atop vanilla or cinnamon ice cream for dessert.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
4–6 cups rice bran oil
2 cups sweet rice flour (regular rice flour will work as well), divided
2 large egg whites
1 cup iced seltzer water or light beer
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2 pounds slightly under-ripe peaches, cut into 3/4-inch wedges
Confectioners’ sugar (optional)
Honey (optional)
Pour the oil in a large, deep heavy-bottomed frying pan and heat to 350°.
While the oil is heating, in a medium mixing bowl, combine 1 cup of the rice flour with the egg whites, whisking slowly until the egg is absorbed. The mixture should be somewhat dry and lumpy.
Slowly add the seltzer water to the flour mixture, whisking constantly, until the batter is smooth and easy to stir. It should be thinner than pancake batter but still thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Add the granulated sugar and mix gently.
Place the remaining 1 cup of rice flour on a shallow plate. Dredge the peach wedges in the rice flour, then dip them in the tempura batter. Using a slotted spoon, shake off the excess batter and transfer the peach wedges into the hot oil. Cook until the wedges are golden brown on all sides, about 2 minutes total.
Transfer to a rack until cool enough to handle. Serve the peach tempura slices warm, sprinkled with confectioners’ sugar, with good local honey for dipping if you like.
The late southern chef and cooking teacher Bill Neal, founder of Crook’s Corner restaurant in Chapel Hill, North Carolina, wrote one of my favorite books about southern cooking: Biscuits, Spoon-bread, and Sweet Potato Pie (originally published in 1990, available now in a reprinted edition). When I moved from New York City to Chapel Hill in 2004, I was naturally excited to visit the restaurant where he made his name. There I found an irresistibly friendly gang of food enthusiasts led by Neal’s successor, chef Bill Smith. Smith has managed to weave Neal’s specialties in with his own inspired take on southern staples. This green peach salad is an example of ingenuity at its finest. It answers the question of what to do with those stubborn peaches that won’t ripen. Sprinkled with a little mint, sugar, salt, and good olive oil, they become a piquant and inviting summer salad, an ideal way to whet the appetite before whatever’s about to come off the grill.
MAKES 4–6 SERVINGS
2 1/2 pounds unripe peaches, peeled, pitted, and sliced 1/4-inch thick
Scant 1/4 cup sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons strong-flavored extra-virgin olive oil, like Greek or Lebanese
2 tablespoons fresh mint leaves, cut into very thin strips
In a large nonreactive bowl, toss the peach slices with the sugar and salt. Let rest for 5 minutes, then fold in the pepper, olive oil, and mint.
Chill, covered, in the refrigerator until ready to use. Serve within a few hours of preparation; if allowed to sit too long or overnight, the peaches will become mushy.
A lot of the peach recipes in this book will work with out-of-season or under-ripe peaches. But this unusual—and addictive—salad relies on the combination of two fruits that must be utterly ripe for the dish to be a success. Most people forget that tomatoes are actually a fruit, but when they’re combined with peaches, that fact becomes incredibly obvious. The tomato’s sweet tang is a lovely match for the juicy peach’s flavor, and the feta and red onion cut through the fruit with creamy sharpness.
MAKES 4–6 SERVINGS
1/4 cup thinly sliced red onion
1 pound peaches, peeled, pitted, and sliced 1/2-inch thick
1 1/2 pounds best-quality tomatoes, such as homegrown heirlooms, of different sizes and colors, large ones diced and small ones halved
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon honey
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces crumbled feta cheese
2 tablespoons small basil leaves or torn basil leaves
In a large bowl, combine the onion, peaches, and tomatoes.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the vinegar, olive oil, honey, and salt and pepper to taste. Drizzle over the fruit mixture, then add the feta and basil and gently toss. Serve immediately.
This is a great light dish, a refreshing lunch or dinner salad, or a good way to kick off a big meal. And it’s very healthy and low in calories. You can easily change that by adding some feta or goat cheese, a handful of toasted cashews, or some crunchy, salty focaccia or sourdough croutons. Or you can keep it simple and feel very virtuous.
MAKES 4 FIRST-COURSE OR 2 ENTRÉE SERVINGS
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus more for brushing
4 small peaches, halved and pitted
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
1 tablespoon water
8 cups baby arugula
Set a grill rack 4–6 inches above the heat source and heat the grill on high.
Season the chicken breasts with salt and pepper, then brush with olive oil. Grill the chicken, turning once, until it reaches an internal temperature of 165°, about 6–9 minutes on each side. Transfer the chicken to a cutting board, cover with aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes.
Brush the peaches with olive oil and place skin-side up on the grill. Cook, turning once, until the peaches are juicy but not mushy, about 4 minutes per side. When the peaches are done, transfer to a plate.
In a salad bowl, whisk together the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, mustard, vinegar, and water. Toss with the arugula.
To serve, divide the arugula among 4 plates. Slice the chicken breasts and peaches and distribute evenly atop the dressed arugula.
Ginger-Peach Chicken is one of those classic dinner-on-a-busy-weeknight dishes popularized during the casserole era of the late 1950s and 1960s, when many women were first going to work full-time. Most recipes for it consist of peach jelly mixed with dried ginger poured on top of skinless, boneless chicken breasts and then baked, which is uninspiring at best. This version maximizes the intense and delicious flavors of ginger and peach by employing fresh ginger and Asian accents like soy sauce and sesame oil. The recipe is also great for stubborn peaches that refuse to ripen because roasting softens their flesh and their tart flavor is welcome. In this more elaborate guise, which takes just a little more time and effort to prepare, Ginger-Peach Chicken becomes an even better dinner for a busy weeknight.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
1 pound unripe, almost hard peaches, halved and pitted
2 red onions, halved and sliced 1/4-inch thick
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons peeled and finely grated fresh ginger
2 tablespoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon vegetable oil, divided
1 tablespoon toasted sesame oil
1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes
4 bone-in, skin-on chicken breasts
Steamed white or jasmine rice, for serving
Preheat the oven to 450°. Place the peaches and onions on a large rimmed baking sheet; season with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with the ginger, soy sauce, 1 tablespoon of the vegetable oil, sesame oil, and red pepper flakes; toss to coat.
Rub the chicken with the remaining 1 teaspoon vegetable oil and season with salt and pepper. Arrange the chicken skin-side up among the peaches and onions.
Roast until the chicken is opaque and registers 160° on an instant-read thermometer inserted in the thickest part of breast, 25–30 minutes. Serve the chicken with the peaches, onions, and rice.
When I was growing up in a southern Jewish family, my grandmother made either barbecued chicken or pot roast (or both, depending on the size of the crowd) for our Shabbat dinner on Friday nights. Now that I’m a mother with my own household and Friday night dinners, roasted chicken has become my go-to dish; it’s so easy to make, and even my pickiest eater likes it. I have a method I stick to for roasting the bird, but I often experiment with the flavors that surround it. For instance, I like the combination of peaches and shallots stuffed into the cavity. They are an especially sweet-yet-subtle, almost delicate accompaniment to the roasted chicken, and they make the house smell divinely warm and inviting while the chicken is cooking.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
13 1/2- to 4-pound whole chicken
2 tablespoons olive oil, divided
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 peaches, peeled (if desired), quartered, and pitted
4 small shallots, halved
1 tablespoon apple cider or red wine vinegar
6 sprigs fresh rosemary (optional)
Preheat the oven to 400°. Thoroughly pat the chicken dry with paper towels, rub with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, and season liberally with salt and pepper. Place the bird in a roasting pan or baking dish.
In a small bowl, combine the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil, peaches, shallots, and vinegar and salt and pepper to taste.
Fill the chicken cavity with the peach mixture, along with the rosemary sprigs, if using. Roast until the chicken is cooked through and a thigh registers 180° on a meat thermometer, about 65–75 minutes or until the juices from the cavity run clear without any pink and the chicken skin is browned and crisp. Remove the pan from the oven and let the chicken rest, covered loosely with foil, for 10 minutes before carving. Serve the chicken sliced, with the peaches, shallots, and pan jus spooned over it and good bread on the side.
“A man taking basil from a woman will love her always,” opined the Renaissance-era English politician and free-speech advocate (and eventual Catholic martyr) Sir Thomas More. Basil is such an interesting herb in part because its fragrance is so hard to pin down; it can be sweet or savory and has assertive notes of licorice and lemon but also an underlying subtlety. But I digress: What’s important here is that I once sampled some peach-basil ice cream, and although I found that particular iteration weird, I believed the combination had potential. What I arrived at was a peach-basil sauce that makes an excellent glaze for roasted chicken, sweet and tangy and incredibly perfumed of a summer garden.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
13 1/2- to 4-pound whole chicken
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
3 medium peaches, peeled, pitted, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3 tablespoons white wine vinegar
1/4 cup tightly packed basil leaves
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 400°. Thoroughly pat the chicken dry with paper towels. Season liberally with salt and pepper.
In a medium saucepan, combine the peaches and vinegar. Over moderate heat cook until the peaches are tender, stirring often, about 5 minutes.
Pour the peaches and their liquid into a blender or food processor and purée until smooth. Add the basil and salt and pepper to taste. Process until smooth.
Gently loosen the skin of the chicken by sliding your fingers between the breast and skin and opening your fingers. Loosen as far as you can, down to the thighs and into the legs. Spoon half of the peach-basil glaze under the skin, and use your fingers to spread it evenly. With kitchen twine, tie the legs together tightly. Brush the remaining glaze evenly over the entire surface of the chicken. Place the chicken on the rack of a roasting pan and pour 1 cup water into the pan.
Roast until the chicken is cooked through and a thigh registers 180° on a meat thermometer, about 65–75 minutes or until the juices from the cavity run clear without any pink and the chicken skin is browned and crisp. Remove the pan from the oven and let the chicken rest, covered loosely with foil, for 10 minutes before carving. Serve the chicken sliced, with pan jus spooned over it, alongside egg noodles, mashed potatoes, or fluffy steamed rice.
This dish is adapted from a signature recipe of the Scotto family, who own a very chic Italian restaurant in Midtown Manhattan, Fresco by Scotto, and frequently appear in cooking segments on the Today show. By all accounts, they’re a loving clan who appreciate food that’s rustic and hearty. This dish is a perfect example: The peach sauce and aromatic herbs add interest and excitement to the simply seared pork.
MAKES 4–6 SERVINGS
2 cloves garlic, smashed
1 tablespoon chopped thyme
1 tablespoon chopped rosemary
2 tablespoons chopped sage
2 tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon cracked black pepper
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for searing
3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 1/2–2 pounds pork tenderloin
3 cups peaches, pitted and cut into small cubes
1/2 cup sugar
Juice of 2 lemons
1/2 teaspoon fresh-cracked black pepper
1 cup chicken stock
1/4 cup vermouth
1/4 cup toasted slivered almonds (optional)
Mix together the garlic, herbs, salt, pepper, olive oil, and vinegar in a large bowl. Place the pork in the marinade, cover, and refrigerate for 2–6 hours.
Preheat the oven to 200°. Drizzle olive oil into a large skillet and heat over medium. Add the pork tenderloin and turn to brown evenly on all four sides, for an approximate cooking time of 10–12 minutes. Transfer the tenderloin to a baking pan, cover with foil, and keep warm in the oven until ready to serve.
In a medium skillet over moderately low heat, combine the peaches, sugar, lemon juice, pepper, and chicken stock. Cook over medium-low heat until the peaches just start to break apart, about 15–20 minutes. Add the vermouth and simmer until the sauce becomes shiny and thick. The peaches will fall apart to make their own sauce. Remove from the heat and fold in the almonds, if desired. To serve, slice the tenderloin on the bias 1/2-inch thick and serve topped with peach sauce.
The idea for this recipe came from one of my favorites in Saveur magazine, where I worked as an editor from 2000 to 2006. Advertising executive Monte Mathews came up with the idea for a Christmas party ham basted with an orange marmalade–brown sugar glaze as a cheap and easy—yet festive—dish for a holiday buffet. When I moved to North Carolina, I adapted Mathews’s wintery ham recipe for summer buffets and picnics by substituting a combination of peach nectar and fresh peaches for the marmalade. Serve the ham at room temperature surrounded by platters of sliced super-ripe tomatoes and other summer salads, and add plenty of good rolls or biscuits and nice mustards on the side.
MAKES 10–12 DINNER OR UP TO 30 BUFFET SERVINGS
3 cups peach nectar
1 (1-inch) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and smashed
Juice of 1 lemon
4 cloves garlic, smashed
1 (14-pound) smoked ham
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
1 cup packed light brown sugar
3 peaches, peeled, pitted, and sliced
Preheat the oven to 350°. In a medium saucepan, simmer the peach nectar, ginger, lemon juice, and garlic for 20 minutes. Strain the mixture into a bowl.
Place the ham in a roasting pan, coat it with the Dijon mustard, and sprinkle on the brown sugar. Pour the peach glaze into the pan and toss in the sliced peaches.
Bake the ham for 1 1/2 hours, basting it every 15 minutes with the glaze from the bottom of the pan. When the ham is done, remove it from the oven and transfer it to a cutting board. Allow it to rest, covered with foil, for 30 minutes, then cut it into thin slices.
This is the perfect dish to bring to a potluck or picnic because it’s colorful and inviting and it doesn’t suffer for sitting at room temperature. Wild rice is earthy, toothsome, and crunchy, and the snap peas and almonds enhance those qualities. The peaches add softness and a lovely fresh, ripe essence, and the whole salad is gently bound together by the tart and creamy Greek yogurt.
MAKES 4–6 SIDE-DISH OR 10–12 BUFFET SERVINGS
1 cup raw wild rice
1 teaspoon salt plus more, to taste
1/2 cup Greek yogurt
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup finely diced basil
Freshly ground black pepper
3 large peaches, peeled, pitted, and diced
1/2 pound sugar snap peas, cut diagonally into bite-size pieces
1/2 cup sliced almonds, lightly toasted
Rinse the wild rice in 2–3 changes of hot water, then drain. In a large stockpot over moderately high heat, bring 3 cups water to a boil. Add the rice and salt and return to a boil before reducing the heat to maintain a low simmer. Cover and cook until the rice is tender but not mushy, with some kernels puffed open, about 35–40 minutes. Drain the rice in a sieve or fine-mesh colander and set aside to cool, covered, for at least 1 hour.
In a large bowl, whisk together the yogurt, olive oil, basil, and salt and pepper to taste. Add the cooled rice, peaches, sugar snap peas, and almonds. Gently stir together and adjust the seasoning as desired. Cover and refrigerate for an hour or more before serving.
Chutney is an Indian condiment used to accompany curries and tandori meat dishes. In the Indian canon, there are countless variations, including classic parsley and peach versions. The chutney here combines the best of both for a tart, sweet-and-sour tang that pairs beautifully with naturally gamy and earthy lamb. The generally woodsy and smoky nature of grilled foods is a great balance for this chutney, so feel free to serve it alongside grilled chicken breasts or use it to replace ketchup on grilled burgers for an exotic sweet-and-sour twist.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
FOR THE LAMB
8 lamb loin chops, trimmed of fat
1/4 cup olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon juice or balsamic vinegar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE CHUTNEY
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 leek, white and tender green parts only, thinly sliced
2 peaches, peeled, pitted, and diced
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons light brown sugar
1/2 cup orange juice
1/4 cup minced parsley
To marinate the lamb, place the chops in a shallow glass or ceramic dish. Combine the olive oil and lemon juice or vinegar and pour into the dish, swirling the chops to coat both sides. Season to taste with salt and pepper, cover with plastic wrap, and marinate for 15–20 minutes.
To make the chutney, heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium heat. Add the leeks and cook for 2–3 minutes until softened. Add the peaches, vinegar, brown sugar, and orange juice to the pan, stir to combine, and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until the peaches are soft and the mixture is syrupy, about 15–20 minutes. Pour into a bowl, stir in the parsley, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Preheat a broiler or grill to medium high. Remove the lamb chops from the marinade and pat dry. Cook for 2–3 minutes on each side for medium rare. Serve topped with peach chutney alongside tabbouleh with warm pita bread triangles if you like.