You don’t come to Lynn’s Paradise Café in the old Highlands neighborhood of Louisville, Kentucky, for the biscuits; you come for the seasonal and creative breakfast. But the biscuits are memorable too. Owner Lynn Winter beat Bobby Flay in a Breakfast Throwdown and has been written up in many food magazines. So when I phoned to ask for her recipe, I expected the response to be “no.” Instead, I had the recipe within an hour, but then that’s the type of service I remember when I used to frequent the restaurant.
You always have fun at Lynn’s. First there’s the funky décor. My daughter loved to play with the toys on every table, the giant pigs, the teapot water fountains, and the eggs hanging on the tree in the dining room.
Then there’s the food. Since the restaurant is known for its breakfast, it must make thousands of biscuits every day. They come to the table as big chunks of biscuit, tall and light. They’re rarely the star of the plate, usually overshadowed by one of Lynn’s inventive main courses, such as BLT fries with spinach and horseradish sour cream or a three-egg omelet filled with something delicious from a local farm.
The biscuits are simple to make because you press the dough into the pan. They’re buttery, tender bites to go alongside whatever dish you’re inspired to create.
4 cups soft wheat flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 1/4 teaspoons salt
2/3 cup vegetable shortening, cut into 1/2-inch chunks and chilled for 15 minutes
1 1/2 cups buttermilk
1 cup heavy cream
Melted butter for brushing the tops
Preheat the oven to 425°. Coat a 9-inch square baking pan with nonstick cooking spray.
Whisk together the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt in a large mixing bowl. Add the cold chunks of shortening. Using a pastry blender, cut up the chunks until they’re about the size of peas.
Make a well in the center and pour in the buttermilk and cream. Starting at the sides of the bowl, use a spatula or wooden spoon to toss the flour over the buttermilk. Continue to work in the flour from the sides of the bowl, just until mixed.
The dough will be very wet and sticky. Turn the dough out into the prepared baking pan and use a spatula or spoon to spread it evenly. Dust your hands with flour and lightly pat the dough until it’s even and pressed into the corners.
Using a floured bench knife or table knife, cut through the dough to make 9 or 16 square biscuits. Brush the tops with melted butter.
Bake for 30–35 minutes. To test for doneness, lightly press the top of one of the center biscuits with your finger. If the biscuit springs back, they’re done. If it doesn’t, bake for another 5 minutes and test again. Remove the biscuits from the oven and let them rest 5 minutes before removing them from the pan. Turn the biscuits out of the pan and cut into squares.