Pancetta, Rosemary, and Olive Oil Biscuits

Bacon in any form goes well with biscuits, but I especially like pancetta because it isn’t cured. Add fresh rosemary and Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. This biscuit is good with any meal, Italian or not.

MAKES ABOUT 12 BISCUITS

1/4 pound pancetta

2 cups soft wheat self-rising flour

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch chunks and chilled for 15 minutes

1/2 cup shredded Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Pinch of finely chopped fresh rosemary

1/4 cup whole milk, plus more if needed

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

All-purpose flour for dusting

Melted butter for brushing the tops

Preheat the oven to 500°. Use a nonstick cake pan or baking sheet.

Dice the pancetta and cook in a skillet over low heat until crisp. Drain on paper towels.

Measure the flour into a large mixing bowl. Add the cold chunks of butter and toss them in the flour to coat. Using a pastry blender or your fingertips, break up the chunks until they’re about the size of peas.

Stir in the cheese and rosemary. Combine the milk and olive oil in a small bowl. Make a well in the center of the flour mixture and pour in the milk mixture. Starting at the sides of the bowl, use a spatula or wooden spoon to toss the flour over the milk. Continue to work in the flour from the sides of the bowl, just until the dough comes together.

If the dough starts to pull away from the sides of the bowl and sticks to your fingers, you have the right amount of milk. If there are dry spots and the dough isn’t sticky when you touch it, add more milk.

Dust a surface with all-purpose flour and turn the dough out onto the surface. Flour your hands, then cuddle the dough by pressing your hands around the outer edges. Pat and press the top of the dough with your floured hands. Fold the dough in half, pat it, and fold it again. Repeat this two or three times until the outside of the dough feels less sticky and becomes smooth.

Use a rolling pin or pat the dough to flatten it to the desired thickness: 1/2 inch for traditional biscuits or up to 1 inch for very tall biscuits.

Cut the biscuits using a 2-inch biscuit cutter without twisting the cutter. Place the biscuits in the cake pan or baking sheet so they touch if you like soft sides or about 1/2 inch apart for crisper sides.

Combine the leftover pieces of dough and cuddle them with your hands, handling the dough as little as possible. Cut more biscuits. Form the remaining scraps into a snake and place it around the biscuits. This will make the biscuits rise more evenly. (And the snake makes a crispy extra for the cook.)

Bake the biscuits in the center of the oven until they’re light golden brown, 8–10 minutes. Brush the tops with melted butter.