Chowchow

My friend Kathleen Purvis, food editor at the Charlotte Observer, calls this classic relish southern kimchi. Kathleen wrote in a 2011 article that chowchow is also known as chow-chow, chow chow, piccalilli, even end-of-the-season relish. It’s typically made with what’s left in the garden before the first frost: green tomatoes, cabbage, peppers, and onions. Other ingredients can sneak into chowchow as well: carrots, cauliflower, and zucchini. Enjoy a tablespoon of this relish on hot dogs, hamburgers, or pinto beans. You can also add it to potato salad, macaroni salad, chicken salad, or egg salad. I use a mandolin to make quick work of shredding and dicing the cabbage, onion, and jalapeños. If you like a hotter relish, increase the number of jalapeños.

MAKES 9 PINT JARS

6 green tomatoes, diced

2 medium heads cabbage, shredded

1 large yellow onion, diced

1 small green bell pepper, diced

1 small red bell pepper, diced

2–3 jalapeños, seeded and diced

1/4 cup pickling salt

2 cups water

6 cups white vinegar

2 cups sugar

2 tablespoons celery seeds

1 tablespoon mustard seeds

2 teaspoons ground mustard

2 teaspoons turmeric

Place the tomatoes, cabbage, onion, bell peppers, and jalapeños in a large nonreactive container with a lid. (I use a 12-quart plastic bucket with a lid that I purchased at a restaurant-supply store.) Add enough ice water to cover the vegetables and add the pickling salt. Stir, cover with a lid, and let sit for 12–24 hours.

The next day, drain and rinse the vegetables in a colander several times until the saltiness is to your liking.

Place the vegetables in a large stainless-steel stockpot or enamel Dutch oven. Add the water, vinegar, sugar, celery seeds, mustard seeds, ground mustard, and turmeric. Bring the mixture to a boil.

Pack the chowchow into hot, sterilized jars, leaving 1/4 inch of headspace. Follow the boiling-water canning instructions on page 10. Process the jars for 10 minutes. Let the relish sit for 1 month before eating.