The process of costuming a doll is very organic, at least for me. I usually have a basket set aside when I first start the sculpt, and I throw anything into it that may be used for the finished costume: fabrics, props, buttons, etc.
I don’t know which of the materials will or won’t be used, but when I turn them out on my sewing table, the jumble can suggest combinations I may not have thought about.
None of this is written in stone—breaking the “rules” of costuming can add more to your character than doing the expected. Have fun with it!
Most of the time, I use instant fabric glue to put together costumes because my dolls’ clothing is not removable. Shirts, pants, vests and skirts can all be glued. When gathering waists and cuffs, gluing makes for less bulk than using a gathering stitch. Glued clothing will stay put and drape exactly the way you want it.
If you like to sew, go for it! A simple ladder stitch can be used on all garments and is practically invisible. If you want leggings to fit close, sewing works better—I just don’t have enough hands to turn under a seam, hold the two sides together, put ’em where I want and apply glue all at once.
Innovative methods of costuming add personality. If you can attach it to a doll, you can use it for clothing. It would take forever to apply the fibers of this fairy’s skirt individually, but stringing them on a wire that will be hidden works perfectly and allows you to adjust the way they hang as you like.
I rarely make “real” shoes of leather. It’s difficult to find leather thin enough to use for dolls of this size, and making leather shoes is a skill all its own that takes a lot of practice (and Bad Words). You can make some really fanciful shoes in clay that may not be possible to make with leather.
I use cheesecloth when wrapping clothing because the edges of the fabric disappear, making the garment appear to be one piece. It’s also inexpensive and you can dye it any color you wish. And it’s easier than sewing!