Ghanaians have a lot of leisure time, love socializing, and do this in a very relaxed and informal way, often just sitting by the roadside and watching life go by, without feeling the need to “go out and do something together.” There is a different and much more laid-back attitude toward time and work than in many developed countries, making opportunities for socializing numerous and inherent in daily life. Socializing may be done in large groups or between just two people. A visitor with a good friend and time on his or her hands will be spoiled for choice for attractions to visit and things to do. Very often, the most enlightening experiences don’t require huge expenditure and travel; it can all happen just on your doorstep.
It is quite possible, if you are so inclined, to live on an entirely Western diet in Ghana. Your hotel can start you off with a full English or continental breakfast before you go out to sample some of the many French, Chinese, Lebanese, and talian restaurants. Supermarkets stock a full range of imported foods.
For those preferring to cook for themselves, the bounty of Ghana’s rich farmland provides a fresh, organic, healthy diet. Delicious fruits and vegetables are widely available and cheap. Fish and meat can be eaten on the day of slaughter, or kept fresh in cold stores. The main breads available are sugar, butter, and tea bread. Try to use local ingredients wherever possible (e.g. Ghanaian, not American rice).
To really understand Ghanaian foods and cooking, however, visitors are recommended to roll up their sleeves and enjoy the experiences of, for example, pounding fufu, “driving” (stirring) banku, grinding pepper in an earthenware pot instead of a blender, lighting and fanning the coal pot, or slaughtering the chicken, goat, or cow. A favorite orientation activity for newcomers is a trip around a local market, followed by cookery practicals. Popular foods among tourists include red-red (fried plantain with bean stew), jollof rice (rice cooked in a meat and vegetable stew), waakye (spiced rice and beans), rice balls with groundnut (peanut) soup, borfrot (doughnut), mpotompoto (mashed yam with palm oil and fish), kelewele (spiced fried plantain), and the fresh fish, shrimps, and “one-man-thousand” (tiny fried baby fish—one man can eat a thousand of them) straight from the Volta around Akosombo.
A day out with a cocoa or plantain farmer, palm-wine tapper, grasscutter (cane rat) rearer, cattle herder, or maize grinder can be an enjoyable and culturally informative experience. Many Ghanaians have their own subsistence farms at home, or at least a few fruit trees. Any visitor staying for a period of years could even try to start their own small farm. This would also help to break the myth that white people can’t do anything.
“Chop” is Ghanaian English for food, or to eat, and the local food is served in the ubiquitous chop bars. Food in chop bars is served hot, quickly, and cheaply. Fufu, which is swallowed without chewing, is notoriously difficult to eat for first timers. The other two big local dishes are kenkey (dokono) and banku, made from maize flour. Regional delicacies abound; a few of them are described below.
| NAME OF FOOD | INGREDIENTS | REGION |
| nkran dokono | Fermented maize in maize leaves | Greater Accra |
| fante dokono | Fermented maize in plantain leaves | Central |
| akyeke | Cassava | Western |
| akple (“banku’s brother”) | Maize | Volta |
| ampesi | Boiled yam or plantain | Eastern, Brong-Ahafo |
| fante fante | Palm oil and fish | Central |
| koko with koose | Millet or maize porridge with fried bean balls | Northern, Upper West, Upper East |
| tubaani | Bambara beans | Northern, Upper West, Upper East |
| tuo zaafi (“TZ”) | Millet | Northern, Upper West, Upper East |
The etiquette of eating is an important lesson visitors should learn. The right hand must be washed before eating. Most foods are eaten with the hands, but nobody will mind if you request a spoon. Very often, two or more people will share a meal from the same bowl and this can be a very bonding experience.
Ghanaians tend to eat very fast, and the fussy foreigner taking his time to chew his food well and provide light conversation will be told, “Why? Eat! You are not eating!” There is pride to be had in gaining the “Gold Medal,” or being the last one at the pot after your eating companions have all retired with full bellies.
“You are invited” is said by someone who is eating when you approach them. It is usually a perfunctory offer, but may be accepted (wash your hands first!). If you are the one eating and you do not invite those around you, they will be offended, even if they have no intention of accepting your invitation. Belching after a big meal should be avoided, unless you want to gain the accolade of “Bush Boy” or “Bush Girl.”
Traditionally, men and women do not eat together, sometimes not even in the same room. It is not done to eat while walking. If you are eating something bigger than bite-size, it is more acceptable to break pieces off with your hand rather than put the whole thing in your mouth and bite it.
“Going for a few bottles” is a pastime of many Ghanaians. Even for teetotalers, sitting down with some friends at one of Ghana’s many “spots,” chatting, listening to the music, and watching life go by is a common way to spend one’s free time. Even the nation’s favorite beer, Star, is used as an acronym for “Sit Together And Relax.” Spots come in a variety of forms, all usually noticeable by colored vertical stripes or big drinks logos on the front. That is, if you don’t notice the loud music and drunk people first. Some spots can be smaller than your living room and serve only local drinks, usually akpeteshie, which is strong gin distilled from palm wine. The undistilled palm wine is much more refreshing and less likely to kill you—look out for a white flag on the country roads. Pito and zom koom are popular drinks in the north, made from millet. Most spots are bigger and serve bottled drinks such as lager (Star, Club, Stone), Guinness, Castle Milk Stout, fizzy drinks, known as “minerals” (Coke, Fanta, Sprite), fruit juices (a fruit juicer is a great present to bring over), and “malt,” which, like Marmite, you will either love or hate. It actually tastes a bit like Marmite, too. At the top end of the scale, there are numerous nightclubs, pool halls, casinos, and concert halls, all serving drinks.
Spots can be great places to meet friends and to make new ones. They are also often used for lovers’ meetings, and sometimes have specially designed “hiding places.” Food can be bought and eaten in spots, either from the spot itself, the nearby stores, or a passing vendor. The common “hissing” used to attract someone’s attention, followed by “banana seller!” / “meat-pie seller!” / “kebab seller!” / “popcorn seller!” is a common sound in the spots. Music and dancing are the norm.
Lots of Ghanaians drink. Some Ghanaians drink a lot. Normally unreserved anyway, a Ghanaian who has “downloaded some hot one” will often seize you and refuse to let you stop talking to him. Akpeteshie bars during happy hour (that is, any hour) can be funny places full of strong opinions and strange behavior, but don’t make a habit of frequenting them, for the sake of your own reputation. At all times be aware that a white person is very conspicuous in Africa, and you do not want to develop a negative reputation as a drinker. By all means drink your head off every evening if that’s your bag, but try to do it out of the public eye as much as possible. Alcohol abuse is known as “the white man’s disease” in Africa and expats should be careful to not make drinking the only “time out” they take.
Cigarettes in Ghana are known as “jot.” They are cheap, come in many brands, and can be sold individually. They are sold in some kiosks, by cigarette vendors, and in bars. Smoke them either where you buy them or in your house. Do not walk the streets with a cigarette.
Smoking is not respected at all in Ghana, and if you are a smoker, you are well-advised to hide it. Among women, smoking is reserved for prostitutes. A strange but widespread belief among Ghanaians is that foreigners tend to smoke a lot because it helps them to keep warm in their cold countries.
Marijuana, known as “wee,” is also cheap and common. Wee smokers, however, are given probably the lowest respect of all, and wee smoking is an illegal and unacceptable practice. Ghana’s prisons have their fair share of foreign drug offenders who are given no bail, no repatriation, and no sympathy.
Music plays a huge role in Ghanaian society and can always be heard in the big towns, often at incredible decibel levels. The constant tunes coming from bars, parties, radio and television, and private homes and cars are impossible to escape. Ghanaian music is some of the most enjoyable and beautiful music you will ever hear, and can be appreciated even with no clue as to what the songs are about (although many of them are sung in English). Of course, if you find a song you like, you will inevitably want to know what they’re singing, and music is therefore a very good language learning tool. Most music you hear not in English will be sung in Twi.
The oldest, most traditional music in Ghana is the ageless African rhythm of drumming and dancing, which continues to entertain crowds today. It is also common to see traditional instruments still being used: you may see xylophones, gongs, bells, rattles, cattle bells, clappers, prempensua (African piano), gourds, horns, trumpets, and flutes. Traditional regional styles include Kpanlogo (Ga), Simpa (Dagomba), Bosue (Akan), and Borborbor (Ewe). Later came Palm Wine Music, influenced by visiting sailors, which is sung by old men in local languages accompanied by a battered guitar and any available wood or metal percussion instruments. Kwabena Nyama was one of its foremost practitioners. Church music is lively, lengthy, and loud.
Traditional African sounds fused with jazz and soul influences during the colonial period of the Gold Coast to form High-Life music, so called because it was originally performed at lavish functions for the ruling British elite; those enjoying the “high life.” Popular High-Life musicians include A.B. Crentsil, Abrantie Amakye Dede (owner of the famous Abrantie Spot in Accra), Daasebre Gyamena, Daddy Lumba, and Kojo Antwi. Bogga (or Burger) High-Life is a variation of this with European influences, originating from such artists as George Darko, who had emigrated to Germany.
In the early 1990s, Reggie Rockstone was the first artist credited with mixing High-Life with American Hip-Hop, to create Hip-Life music, which has developed into a thriving international movement, very popular with the younger generation. There are many talented Hip-Life artists, including Batman, Castro Destroyer, Kwabena Kwabena, Obrafour, Praye, Ofori Amponsah, and Tic-Tac. Hip-Life is also proving to be a successful breeding ground for many up-and-coming female artists, most notably the incredible Mzbel. Female singers had previously been limited to the inescapable Gospel music, Cindy Thompson, Esther Smith, the Tagoe Sisters, and Daughters of Glorious Jesus being popular performers. For some great Ga music that’s sure to get you on your feet, keep an ear out for King David. Reggae is developing through artists such as Rocky Dawuni, Shasha Marley, and Blakk Prophet. Reggae fans will appreciate the music and message of Blakk Rasta daily on Hitz FM, and his catchy tribute to Barack Obama.
Other African music is commonly heard. Selected continental anthems include “African Queen” by 2Face of Nigeria, “Premier Gaou” by Magic System, or anything by Alpha Blondy of Côte d’Ivoire, “Agolo” by Angelique Kidjo of Benin, and songs from the South African “kwaito-cum-marabi house music” band, Mafikizolo. There are Bob Marley fans aplenty. Say a prayer as you listen to anything by the late, great king of African Reggae, Lucky Dube, who was so sadly stolen from us in October 2007, a victim of the situation in the troubled South Africa—the very issue that he addressed through his powerful lyrics and Rastafarian message. His tracks are to be heard everywhere, and the reaction to his murder by armed robbers has been massive and heartfelt throughout Africa.
TIPPING
Tipping—that is, paying something extra for a service, and to be differentiated from “dashing”—is not a practice commonly observed by Ghanaians. They will rather total their bill carefully and demand the exact change.
However, at the tourist sites where you have a guide, such as the chiefs’ palaces, game reserves, and slave castles, the guide will expect a tip. Guides consistently provide excellent service, enough to warrant a tip. Be careful not to pick up any “fake” guides, who will follow you around, provide no service, then demand a tip for services you haven’t even asked for.
Waiters and waitresses, hotel workers, and bar staff do not usually expect a tip, but for good service, a small gratuity, a “Keep the change” or “Have a drink on me” is good practice.
An instantly noticeable source of shopping in Ghana is the “hawkers” who line the streets and pavements shouting their product and its price. You can buy anything on the streets, from ice cream to puppies, and one of the best ways to shop is from the comfort of your car or tro-tro. The streets of Accra have been dubbed “the longest supermarket in the world.” The hawkers in the traffic seem to have the hardest job, running after potential customers in the hot sun and narrowly avoiding death when the lights change to green. Tro-tro shopping is a highlight of many a visitor’s stay in Ghana. Many other goods are sold in supermarkets and smaller stores.
Ghanaians haggle over prices, but not in all circumstances. Shops, hotels, meals, and drinks usually have fixed prices, but most items bought on the street and hired taxis can be subject to lengthy bartering. When buying foodstuffs, you can try your luck by asking for a reduction in price (te so) or for the addition of some free extras (to so). A Ghanaian friend with you when you shop will ensure you don’t pay too much, as many prices quoted initially by the seller can be reduced by half. Ask them if they are charging you obroni price or obibini (Black man) price. By all means haggle, but do not insult or cause offense. If you don’t want to waste your time bartering and are happy to contribute to the economy of Africa, just ask the seller for his or her “last price” and pay that.
Arts and crafts shopping is an interesting pastime, and you can find some great presents to take home. Ghanaian art is filled with symbolism and offers insights into the history and beliefs of the people. Accra Arts Centre has a wonderful array of local crafts at wonderfully inflated prices (which do need to be haggled for!) Drums, masks, sculptures, swords, bows, pottery, beads, fabrics, and paintings are plentiful. Locally, go for some Kente or Adinkra cloth or Ashanti gold weights from Kumasi, woven hats and baskets in the north and east, a traditional smock (batakari) with matching trousers and hat from Bolgatanga, or a coffin in the shape of a fish, beer bottle, coconut, or anything you request from Teshie Nungua.
Besides Ghana’s main tourist attraction, namely its incredible people, the country has a wide gamut of sites of interest to tourists. European forts and castles are now museums or hotels; lake, river, and beach resorts are offering water sports and game fishing; national parks are developed and well managed; facilities are available for large social gatherings, and more nature, adventure, and ecotourism packages are being offered in the remaining forests.
The Ghana Tourist Board provides an excellent service and will give you much more detailed information on all their popular tourist sites and possible itineraries. For readers of this book who are interested in developing their knowledge of the culture and customs of Ghana, the following places or activities are specifically recommended.
The Community-Based Ecotourism Project has developed fourteen rural locations in consultation with tourists, in order to alleviate poverty through the creation of income-generating tourism activities. For example, there are protected areas including butterfly, monkey, hippo, crocodile, and bird-watching sanctuaries, and villages have been turned into pottery and art workshops. Visitors to these sites will have a great opportunity to learn deeply about the people and their lifestyles, in the knowledge that their tourist dollars are going directly toward the community.
This ancient kingdom, now part of the Eastern Region, has the potential to become one of the biggest tourist hubs in the country. Ironically, perhaps one of its main pulls is the fact that it has yet to achieve this potential. One can freely roam among the lush hills, waterfalls, sacred caves, ancient shrines, artificial lakes, butterfly and monkey sanctuaries, and giant trees. Traditional beliefs and ways of life are pursued by a proud people who welcome foreigners keen to learn about them.
The Ashantis are rightly proud of their rich history, and the visitor will find no shortage of museums and cultural and historical sites in the area to impart this (and also the biggest market in West Africa). Ashantis consider themselves the purest of Akans and a study of their culture is highly recommended. An educated Ashanti will give far more justice and depth to an account of the customs and etiquette of Ghana than a foreign guidebook could ever do.
To appreciate the real Ghanaian experience, seek out one of the many tour operators who place you, at least for a part of your visit, with a host family. The family will be delighted to have you (if you behave appropriately) and you will be equally delighted to be in the midst of a lovely family who can teach you much about Ghanaian life, customs, and etiquette.
Tour operators who offer a real cultural experience, rather than simply a hotel room and taxi to the airport, are listed on this page.
Football (soccer) is definitely the king of sports in Ghana. The country went wild during 2006 when the Black Stars made their first World Cup appearance and went on to become the only African nation to make it out of the group stages. The streets were once again blocked by singing and dancing fans during CAN 2008, hosted by Ghana, which achieved a formidable third place. The two big club teams are Hearts of Oak from Accra and Asante Kotoko from Kumasi. Visitors who express a slight interest in football may be immediately asked if they are “Phobia” (Hearts supporter) or “Fabulous” (Kotoko supporter). Foreign football, especially the English league, is extremely popular, and many television centers’ blackboards bear something like “Manchester United v Liverpool, 8 p.m.” Boxing, table tennis, track-and-field, and volleyball are other favorites.
Some of the time spent sitting under trees and on wooden benches is also filled with playing board games. Ludo and draughts (dami) are very popular imports. Cards are played, but there seems to be only one known card game, called “Spar.” This consists of throwing away all the 2s, 3s, 4s, and 5s before seeing who can slam the remaining cards down hardest on the table. The most common local game is Oware, an ancient game similar to backgammon, which you should have a go at. Hand-carved Oware sets make great presents to take back home.
Ghanaians do not understand the idea of walking for pleasure. Unless you are a farmer, logger, hunter, or mineral prospector, you should have no business in the forest. Ecotourism is on the increase, however, and there are plenty of great walks offering panoramic views, interesting nature, and insights into traditional ways of life.
Walking in “the bush” is also a great way to meet people and learn about ways of life that you never see when traveling on the roads. If you strike up a conversation with a pawpaw, cocoa, orange, pineapple, or banana farmer, then he’s sure to offer you some of his fresh produce. If you don’t meet anybody, however, helping yourself is discouraged.
Visitors should not come to Ghana expecting to see the “big game” that is more common throughout eastern and southern Africa, although there are elephants, crocodiles, and some very elusive chimpanzees. The smaller birds, butterflies, bats, driver ants, monkeys, mammals, reptiles, and multitudinous tree and plant species are sufficient, though, for a great nature experience. The mountains, forests, waterfalls, and rivers also offer some wonderfully secluded spots for meditation. The enchanted hills around the town of Kibi are a hiker’s dream.
A lifetime is not long enough for an avid reader in Balme Library at the University of Ghana, Legon. Entry is free, and you can sit for hours reading some very old books about Ghanaian and Gold Coast history. The 1920s British colonial teacher and historian W. E. F. Ward offers some engrossing insights into the history and culture of the Gold Coast at that time.
Excellent Ghanaian authors abound, and interested readers should look out for Ayi Kwei Armah, Efua Sutherland, Kofi Awoonor, and Ama Ata Aiddo. The most famous stories are the folktales about the cunning but greedy spiderman, Kwaku Ananse. The most comprehensive collection of African and international literature, music, and movies is available at Silverbird in Accra Mall.
Orally, humorous anecdotes known as “Toli” are often told, as are jokes about the negative traits of Ghanaians.
Ghana Hell
More self-deprecating humor:
A man dies and goes to hell. Once there, he finds that there is a different hell for each country and he can choose which one he prefers. He asks what happens in Germany hell, and is told: “First you are put in the electric chair for an hour, then they lay you on a bed of nails for an hour, then the German devil whips you for the rest of the day.” Not fancying that, he asks about the American, Chinese, British, and French hells and finds out that they all offer the same treatment. He then notices a long line of people waiting to get into the Ghana hell and asks what happens in there. He is told: “First you are put in the electric chair for an hour, then they lay you on a bed of nails for an hour, then the Ghanaian devil whips you for the rest of the day.”
“But that’s the same as all the others,” he says. “Why are so many people waiting to get in?”
“Because there is never any electricity, so the electric chair doesn’t work. The nails were paid for, but never supplied, so the bed is comfortable. And, on top of it all, the Ghanaian devil used to be a civil servant, so he just comes in, signs his time sheet, then goes back out on private business for the rest of the day.”