Tuscany      

FLORENCE
   ORIENTATION
   INFORMATION
   SIGHTS
   COURSES
   FLORENCE FOR CHILDREN
   TOURS
   FESTIVALS & EVENTS
   SLEEPING
   EATING
   DRINKING
   ENTERTAINMENT
   SHOPPING
   GETTING THERE & AWAY
   GETTING AROUND
AROUND FLORENCE
   FIESOLE
NORTHERN & WESTERN TUSCANY
   PISTOIA
   LUCCA
   THE GARFAGNANA
   APUANE ALPS
   PISA
   LIVORNO
   ELBA
CENTRAL TUSCANY
   CHIANTI
   SIENA
   SAN GIMIGNANO
   VOLTERRA
   LE CRETE
SOUTHERN TUSCANY
   PARCO REGIONALE DELLA MAREMMA
   ETRUSCAN SITES
EASTERN TUSCANY
   AREZZO
   SANSEPOLCRO
   CORTONA


Laden with grand-slam sights and experiences, Tuscany (Toscana in Italian) offers the perfect introduction to Italy’s famed dolce vita (sweet life). Despite incessant praise, its beauty and charm continues to defy description. It truly does have it all: extraordinary art and architecture; colourful festivals; a season-driven cuisine emulated the world over; and never-ending, picture-perfect landscapes of olive groves, vineyards and poplars.

There’s an overabundance of things to do and see, because this part of Italy has been value-adding since Etruscan times. You can visit a World Heritage site in the morning (there are six), drive through a national park in the afternoon (there are three) and bunk down in stylish vineyard accommodation at night (we wouldn’t dare hazard a guess how many there are). Medieval sculptures, Renaissance paintings and Gothic cathedrals? Check. Spectacular trekking and sensational Slow Food? Yep. Hills laden with vines, ancient olive groves…you’ve got the picture. Now all you have to do is go.

HIGHLIGHTS

POPULATION: 3.5 MILLION

AREA: 22,990 SQ KM

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FLORENCE

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Return time and again and you won’t see it all. Stand on a bridge over the Arno several times in a day and the light, mood and view will always vary. Surprisingly small as it is, this city is like no other. Cradle of the Renaissance and home of Machiavelli, Michelangelo and the Medici, Florence (Firenze) is magnetic, romantic, unrivalled and – above all – busy. Its historic streets teem with tourists, who flock year-round to feast on the city’s world-class art and extraordinary architecture.

Yet there’s more to this intensely absorbing place than priceless masterpieces. Towers and palaces evoke a thousand tales of its medieval past; designer boutiques and artisan workshops stud its streets; there’s a buzzing cafe and bar scene; and – when the summer heat simply gets too stifling – vine-laden hills and terrace restaurants are only a short drive away.

HISTORY

Controversy continues over who founded Florence. The most commonly accepted story tells us that Emperor Julius Caesar founded Florentia around 59 BC, making it a strategic garrison on the narrowest crossing of the Arno river and thus controlling the Via Flaminia linking Rome to northern Italy and Gaul (France). Archaeological evidence suggests the presence of an earlier village founded by the Etruscans of Fiesole around 200 BC.

In the 12th century Florence became a free comune (town council), ruled by 12 priori (consuls) assisted by the Consiglio di Cento (Council of One Hundred), drawn mainly from the merchant class. Agitation among differing factions led to the appointment of a foreign governing magistrate (podestà) in 1207.

The first conflicts between two of the factions, the pro-papal Guelphs (Guelfi) and the pro-imperial Ghibellines (Ghibellini), started in the mid-13th century, with power passing between the two groups for almost a century.

In the 1290s the Guelphs split into two: the Neri (Blacks) and Bianchi (Whites). When the Bianchi were defeated, Dante was among those driven into exile in 1302. As the nobility lost ground the Guelph merchant class took control, but trouble was never far away. The plague of 1348 halved the city’s population and the government was rocked by agitation from the lower classes.

In the 14th century Florence was ruled by a caucus of Guelphs under the leadership of the Albizi family. Among the families opposing them were the Medici, who substantially increased their clout when they became the papal bankers.

Cosimo il Vecchio (the Elder, also known simply as Cosimo de’ Medici) emerged as head of the opposition to the Albizi in the 15th century and became Florence’s ruler. His eye for talent saw a constellation of artists such as Alberti, Brunelleschi, Lorenzo Ghiberti, Donatello, Fra’ Angelico and Fra’ Filippo Lippi flourish.

The rule of Lorenzo il Magnifico (1469–92), Cosimo’s grandson, ushered in the most glori­ous period of Florentine civilisation and of the Italian Renaissance. His court fostered a flowering of art, music and poetry, turning Florence into Italy’s cultural capital. Not long before Lorenzo’s death, the Medici bank failed and the family was driven out of Florence. The city fell under the control of Savonarola, a Dominican monk who led a puritanical republic, burning the city’s wealth on his ‘bonfire of vanities’. But his lure was short-lived and after falling from favour he was tried as a heretic and executed in 1498.

After the Spanish defeated Florence in 1512, Emperor Charles V married his daughter to Lorenzo’s great-grandson Alessandro de’ Medici, whom he made duke of Florence in 1530. Seven years later Cosimo I, one of the last truly capable Medici rulers, took charge, becoming grand duke of Tuscany after Siena fell to Florence in 1569 and ushering in more than 150 years of Medici domination of Tuscany.

In 1737 the grand duchy of Tuscany passed to the French House of Lorraine, which retained control, apart from a brief interruption under Napoleon, until it was incorporated into the Kingdom of Italy in 1860. Florence briefly became the national capital but Rome assumed the mantle permanently in 1870.

The city was severely damaged during WWII by the retreating Germans, who blew up all its bridges except the Ponte Vecchio. It was ravaged by floods in 1966; and in 1993 the Mafia exploded a massive car bomb, killing five, injuring 37 and destroying a part of Uffizi Gallery. A decade later, the gallery is undergoing its biggest-ever expansion.

REGIONAL ITINERARY

Tuscan Treasures         One Week / Florence / Cortona

The magnificent city of Florence (opposite) anchors any tour of Tuscany. Spend a day sampling its highlights before tearing yourself away and travelling to Lucca, light on heavyweight museums but loaded with important churches, atmospheric cafes and top-notch restaurants. Make sure you take a bike ride around its historic city walls and pay homage to favourite son Giacomo Puccini at one of the nightly concerts staged in the Church of Saints Giovanni and Reparata, where the great opera composer once played the organ. On day four, visit Pisa to admire the Piazza dei Miracoli, scale the iconic Leaning Tower, admire the 12th- to 14th-century paintings from the Tuscan school that form the core of the collection of the Museo Nazionale di San Matteo and enjoy some of the city’s splendid, seafood-dominated regional cuisine. The next morning sees you heading towards the nearby hill-town of San Miniato, where you can embark on a truffle hunt or tour the town’s gourmet produce shops before checking into an agriturismo (farmstay accommodation) in Chianti for two nights – many are idyllically located on historic wine estates. Spend the next day tasting Chianti and Chianti Classico in and around Greve in Chianti or day-tripping to the walled city of San Gimignano with its famous towers. On day six, move on to seductive Siena, full of extraordinary art and architecture and known for its enticing eateries. Your final day should see you wending your way through the picture-perfect landscape of Le Crete, stopping by World Heritage—listed Pienza to admire its Piazza Pio II before moving on to Montepulciano, home of one of Tuscany’s most famous wines, Vino Nobile. Your tour finishes in the captivating town of Cortona near the Umbrian border, which dates from Etruscan times.

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ORIENTATION

Budget hotels are concentrated east of the central train station, Stazione di Santa Maria Novella, around Via Nazionale and south around Piazza di Santa Maria Novella. The main route to the centre is Via de’ Panzani and Via de’ Cerretani. Spot the Duomo and you’re there.

Most major sights are within easy walking distance. From Piazza di San Giovanni around the baptistry, Via Roma leads to Piazza della Repubblica and beyond to Ponte Vecchio. From Piazza del Duomo follow Via de’ Calzaiuoli for Piazza della Signoria, the historic seat of government. The Uffizi is on the piazza’s southern edge, near the Arno. The less touristy area south of the river is known as the Oltrarno.

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INFORMATION

Bookshops

Emergency

FLORENCE IN…

Two Days

Kick-start your day with a coffee in one of Piazza della Repubblica’s historic cafes before visiting the masterpiece-packed Uffizi. After lunch, head to Piazza del Duomo to visit the cathedral, baptistry and Museo dell’Opera del Duomo. After this, you’ll deserve an aperitivo and dinner – join the locals at one of the city’s many stylish bars and restaurants. Next morning, follow the walk outlined in the Duomo to Palazzo Strozzi section on Click here and then head to San Marco to visit the Galleria dell’Accademia and Museo di San Marco. For aperitivo and dinner, venture across the Arno to the Oltrarno, stopping to admire the sunset from the Ponte Vecchio or Piazzale Michelangelo on the way.

Four Days

On day three, explore Palazzo Pitti, the Giardino di Boboli and the Giardino di Bardini. Alternatively, visit the city’s major basilicas – San Lorenzo, Santa Croce and Santa Maria Novella. For dinner, enjoy good food and entertainment at Teatro del Sale (see the boxed text, Click here). On day four, take a guided tour of Palazzo Vecchio in the morning and investigate the city’s specialist shops in the afternoon.

One week

With three extra days, you’ll be able to fit in gems such as the Cappella Brancacci, the Cappella di Benozzo at the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi and the Museo del Bargello. You could also take a day trip to Fiesole.

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SIGHTS

Florence swarms with sights, most of which are within convenient walking distance of each other. In usual Italian fashion, state museums and monuments (Uffizi and Galleria dell’Accademia included) close on Monday.

Piazza del Duomo

Not only is Florence’s Duomo (Map; 055 21 53 80; www.duomofirenze.it; 10am-5pm Mon-Wed & Fri, to 3.30pm Thu, to 4.45pm Sat, to 3.30pm 1st Sat of month, 1.30-4.45pm Sun, mass in English 5pm Sat) the city’s most iconic landmark, it’s also one of Italy’s ‘Big Three’ (with Pisa’s Leaning Tower and Rome’s Colosseum). Its famous red-tiled dome, graceful bell tower and breathtaking pink, white and green marble facade have the wow factor in spades.

Begun in 1296 by Sienese architect Arnolfo di Cambio, the cathedral took almost 150 years to complete. Its neo-Gothic facade was designed in the 19th century by architect Emilio de Fabris to replace the uncompleted original, torn down in the 16th century. The oldest and most clearly Gothic part of the cathedral is its south flank, pierced by Porta dei Canonici (Canons’ Door), a mid-14th-century High Gothic creation (you enter here to climb up inside the dome).

Wander around the trio of apses, designed as flowers on a stem that is the nave of the church and so reflecting its proper name – Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore (St Mary of the Flower).

After the visually tumultuous facade, the sparse decoration of the cathedral’s vast interior, 155m long and 90m wide, is surprising. It is also unexpectedly secular in places (a reflection of the sizeable chunk of the cathedral funded by the comune rather than the church).

Scaling the 463 steep stone steps up to the cathedral dome (adult/child under 6yr €8/free; 8.30am-7pm Mon-Fri, to 5.40pm Sat) – an incredible feat of engineering – is a must. No supporting frame was used in its construction (1420–36); it’s actually two concentric domes built from red brick to designs by Filippo Brunelleschi. The climb rewards you with an unforgettable 360-degree panorama of one of Europe’s most beautiful cities. Allow at least half an hour up here.

Equally physical is the 414-step climb up the neighbouring 82m-high campanile (Map; adult/child under 6yr €6.50/free; 8.30am-6.50pm), designed by Giotto in 1334. He died before the graceful bell tower was complete, leaving Andrea Pisano and Francesco Talenti to finish it.

Lorenzo Ghiberti designed the famous gilded bronze bas-reliefs adorning the eastern doors of the 11th-century Romanesque baptistry (battistero; Map; Piazza di San Giovanni; admission €4; 12.15pm-6.30pm Mon-Sat, 8.30am-1.30pm 1st Sat of the month & Sun), an octagonal striped structure of white and green marble. One of Florence’s oldest buildings, it’s dedicated to St John the Baptist and counts Dante among the famous who have been dunked in its baptismal font.

The baptistry has three sets of doors, conceived as a series of panels in which the story of humanity and the Redemption would be told. Andrea Pisano executed the southern doors (1330) illustrating the life of St John the Baptist, and Ghiberti won a public competition in 1401 to design the northern doors, but it is his gilded bronze doors at the eastern entrance, known as the Gate of Paradise (Porta del Paradiso), that are the most celebrated.

OUR TOP FIVE WINE TASTINGS

What you see today are copies of the panels; turn to the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo (Map; www.operaduomo.firenze.it; Piazza del Duomo 9; admission €6; 9am-6.50pm Mon-Sat, to 1pm Sun) for the originals, which occupy the glass-topped ground-floor courtyard. On the mezzanine floor is Michelangelo’s Pietà, which he intended for his own tomb. Vasari recorded in his Lives of the Artists (see the boxed text on Click here) that, dissatisfied with both the quality of the marble and of his own work, Michelangelo broke up the unfinished sculpture, destroying the arm and left leg of the figure of Christ. A student of Michelangelo’s later restored the arm and completed the figure of Mary Magdalene.

Duomo to Palazzo Strozzi

From Piazza di San Giovanni walk south down Via Roma to reach Piazza della Repubblica (Map). Originally the site of a Roman forum and the heart of medieval Florence, this busy civic space was created in the late 1880s as part of a controversial plan of ‘civic improvements’ involving the demolition of the old market, Jewish ghetto and surrounding slums, and the relocation of nearly 6000 residents. Fortunately, Giorgio Vasari’s lovely Loggia del Pesce (Fish Market) was saved and re-erected on Via Pietrapiana (Map). Today, the piazza is known for its concentration of historic cafes (Click here).

Continue one block south and turn left (east) into Via Orsanmichele, where you’ll find the Chiesa di Orsanmichele (Map; 055 2 38 85; Via Arte della Lana; admission free; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun), the arcades of a grain market walled in during the 14th century to create a church. Statues of the city guilds’ patron saints adorn the exterior, representing the work of famous Renaissance artists including Pisano, Ghiberti and Donatello. What you see today are copies – the originals are found in museums throughout the city. The main feature of the interior is a splendid Gothic tabernacle by Andrea Orcagna.

Backtrack to Via Roma and continue walking south until you see a huge loggia. This is the Mercato Nuovo (New Market), a 16th-century market building commissioned by Cosimo I and called the New Market to differentiate it from the Mercato Vecchio (Old Market) that had occupied the site since the 11th century. In Cosimo’s day it was used primarily for the sale of wool, silk and gold, so its current incarnation as an emporium for tacky merchandise is something of an affront. Florentines know the market as ‘Il Porcellino’ (The Piglet) after the bronze statue of a wild boar on its southern side. Local legend has it that rubbing its snout will ensure your return to Florence.

From the market, head west along Via Porta Rossa until you come to the magnificent Museo di Palazzo Davanzati ( 055 277 64 61; www.polomuseale.firenze.it/davanzati; Via Porta Rossa 13; admission free; 8.15am-1.50pm, closed 2nd & 4th Sun, 1st, 3rd & 5th Mon of month), a warehouse and residence built in the mid-14th century and occupied by the wealthy Davanzati merchant family from 1578. The piazza in front of the building was once edged with heavily fortified tower houses such as this one, but many were demolished in the 1880s ‘civic improvements project’. Inside, don’t miss the carved faces of the original owners on the pillars in the inner courtyard, the 1st-floor reception room with its painted wooden ceiling and the exquisitely decorated sala dei pappagalli (Parrot Room) and camera dei pavoni (Peacock Bedroom).

Continue along Via Porta Rossa until you reach Via de’ Tornabuoni, the city’s most legend­ary fashion street – often called the ‘Salotto di Firenze’ (Florence’s Drawing Room). Turn right (north) to arrive at the magnificent Palazzo Strozzi (Map; cnr Via de’ Tornabuoni & Via degli Strozzi; admission prices & opening hr vary according to exhibition). Built for wealthy merchant Filippo Strozzi, one of the Medicis’ major political and commercial rivals, this impressive 15th-century­ palace has been reimagined over recent years and is now home to one of the city’s most exciting exhibition programs. The building – half palace, half fortress as befits its era and the Strozzi family history (Filippo’s entire family was banished from Florence in 1434 and didn’t return until 1466) – is built over three levels from large stone blocks. The design, in which Strozzi is thought to have been heavily involved, is incomplete, as he died two years after building commenced and his son soon ran out of money. Today it hosts blockbuster exhibitions in its upstairs spaces and contemporary work in both its basement gallery and imposing internal courtyard. There’s always a buzz around this place, with young Florentines congregating in the courtyard cafe and on the benches built into the palazzo’s eastern facade, which fronts Piazza Strozzi.

Piazza della Signoria

The hub of the city’s political life and surrounded by some of its most celebrated buildings, this lovely cafe-lined piazza, pierced at its centre by an equestrian statue of Cosimo I by Giambologna, has witnessed more events in Florentine history than any other: it was here that preacher-leader Savonarola set light to the city’s art – books, paintings, musical instruments, mirrors, fine clothes and so on – on his famous bonfire of vanities in 1497. A year later the Dominican monk was burnt as a heretic on the same spot, marked by a bronze plaque in front of Ammannati’s monumental but ugly Fontana di Nettuno (Neptune Fountain).

Far more impressive are the equestrian statue of Cosimo I by Giambologna in the centre of the piazza, the much-photographed copy of Michelangelo’s David that has guarded the western entrance to the Palazzo Vecchio since 1910 (the original stood here until 1873 but is now in the Galleria dell’Accademia; Map) and two copies of important Donatello works – Marzocco, the heraldic Florentine lion (for the original see the Museo del Bargello;) and Giuditta e Oloferne (Judith and Holofernes, c 1455; original inside Palazzo Vecchio). Facing this line-up is the 14th-century Loggia dei Lanzi (Map), where works such as Giambologna’s Rape of the Sabine Women (c 1583), Benvenuto Cellini’s bronze Perseus (1554) and Agnolo Gaddi’s Seven Virtues (1384–89) are displayed. The loggia owes its name to the Lanzichenecchi (Swiss bodyguards) of Cosimo I, who were stationed here, and the present day guards live up to this heritage, sternly monitoring crowd behaviour and promptly banishing anyone carrying food or drink.

As much a symbol of the city as the Duomo is the striking 94m-tall Torre d’Arnolfo that crowns the Palazzo Vecchio (Map; 055 276 82 24; www.palazzovecchio-museoragazzi.it; Piazza della Signoria; adult/child 3-17yr/18-25yr & over 65yr €6/2/4.50, family of 4/5 €14/16, visit & guided tour €8/3/6.50, each additional tour €1; 9am-7pm Fri-Wed, to 2pm Thu), the traditional seat of Florentine government. Built by Arnolfo di Cambio between 1298 and 1314 for the Signoria, the highest level of Florentine republican government, the palace became the residence of Cosimo I in the 16th century. It remains the mayor’s office today.

The series of lavish apartments created for the Medici is well worth seeing, as is the Salone dei Cinquecento (16th-Century Room), created within the original building in the 1490s to accommodate the Consiglio dei Cinquecento (Council of Five Hundred) that ruled Florence at the end of the 15th century and expanded and decorated in the mid-1500s. Sheer size aside, what impresses most are the swirling, floor-to-ceiling battle scenes by Vasari glorifying Florentine victories by Cosimo I over arch rivals Pisa and Siena: unlike the Sienese, the Pisans are depicted bare of armour (play ‘Spot the Leaning Tower’). To top off this unabashed celebration of his own power, Cosimo had himself portrayed as a god in the centre of the exquisite panelled ceiling – but not before commissioning Vasari to raise the original ceiling 7m in height. Also in this room is Michelangelo’s sculpture Genius of Victory, destined for Rome and Pope Julius II’s tomb, but left unfinished in the artist’s studio when he died.

The best way to see this building is by guided tour ( 9.30am, 12.30pm, 3.30pm & 6.30pm Mon-Wed & Fri, 9.30am & 12.30pm Thu, 10am, 1.30pm, 3pm & 6.30pm Sat & Sun). Around one hour long, these are conducted by English-speaking guides and take you into parts of the building that are not otherwise accessible. The best of the adult bunch is probably the ‘Secret Passages’ tour, in which groups of 12 are led along the secret staircase built between the palace’s super-thick walls in 1342 as an escape route for French Duke of Athens Walter de Brienne, who seized the palace and nominated himself Lord of Florence only to be sent packing back to France by the Florentines a year later. It follows this staircase to the tesoretto (little treasury) of Cosimo I – a tiny room no larger than a cupboard for his private collection, entered by one carefully concealed door and exited by another – and the equally intimate but substantially more sumptuous studiolo (study) of his introverted, alchemy-mad son Francesco I. Cosimo commissioned Vasari and a team of top Florentine Mannerist artists to decorate the study, with Francesco appearing in one of the 34 emblematic paintings covering the walls, not as a prince, but as an inconsequential scientist experimenting with gunpowder. The lower paintings concealed 20 cabinets in which the young prince hid his shells, stones, crystals and other curious treasures. The tour ends in the roof above the Salone dei Cinquecento, where you can see the huge wooden trusses that hold up Vasari’s ornate ceiling.

For information about special tours for children, Click here. It is highly advisable to book all tours in advance by visiting the desk behind the ticket office on the day before your visit or by telephoning 055 276 82 24.

The Uffizi

The Palazzo degli Uffizi, designed and built by Vasari in the second half of the 16th century at the request of Cosimo I, originally housed the city’s administrators, judiciary and guilds (uffizi means offices).

Cosimo’s successor, Francesco I, commissioned the architect Buontalenti to modify the upper floor of the palazzo to house the Medici’s growing art collection. Thus, indir­ectly, the first steps were taken to turn it into an art gallery.

For hints about how to avoid the huge queues to enter, see the boxed text on Click here.

THE GALLERY

The collection comprises 50-odd rooms and 1555 masterpieces. Allow at least four hours for your visit – many spend the entire day. The gallery’s pleasant rooftop cafe is only accessible from inside the building and offers light snacks (pizza/panino €4.50/6.50, beer €6, cappuccino standing up/sitting down €1.60/4.50) and fabulous views. In the grand old days, this was the terraced hanging garden where the Medici clan gathered to listen to music performances on the square below.

THE COLLECTION

The collection spans the gamut of art history from ancient Greek sculpture to 18th-century Venetian paintings and is arranged in chronological order by school. Its core is the masterpiece-rich Renaissance collection. We identify highlights in the following paragraphs.

Works are displayed on the 3rd floor in a series of numbered rooms off two dramatically long corridors – the first (primo corridoio) and third (terzo corridoio). They are linked at one end by a loggia (secondo corridoio), from where you can enjoy the finest view in Florence of the crowded Ponte Vecchio and mysterious Corridoio Vasariano (Click here).

Tuscan Masters: 12th to 14th Centuries

The first room to the left of the staircase highlights 13th-century Sienese art and is dominated by three large altarpieces – Madonna in Maestà (Madonna Enthroned) by Tuscan masters Duccio di Buoninsegna, Cimabue and Giotto. These clearly reflect the transition from the Gothic to the nascent Renaissance style. Note the overtly naturalistic realism overtones in Giotto’s portrayal of the Madonna and child among angels and saints, painted some 25 years after that of Buoninsegna and Giotto’s master, Cimabue.

The next room stays in Siena but moves into the 14th century. The highlight is Simone Martini’s shimmering Annunciation (1333), which was painted with Lippo Memmi and sets the Madonna in a sea of gold. Also of note is the triptych Madonna with Child and Saints by Pietro Lorenzetti, which demonstrates the same realism as Giotto; unfortunately both Pietro and his artistic brother Ambrogio died from the plague in Siena in 1348.

Masters in 14th-century Florence paid as much attention to detail as their Sienese counterparts, as works in the next room demonstrate: savour the realism of San Reminio Pietà (1360–65), in the Uffizi since 1851, by gifted Giotto pupil, Giottino.

Renaissance Pioneers

A concern for perspective was a hallmark of the early 15th-century Florentine school (room 7) that pioneered the Renaissance. One panel (the other two are in the Louvre and London’s National Gallery) from Paolo Uccello’s striking Battle of San Romano shows the artist’s efforts to create perspective with amusing effect as he directs the lances, horses and soldiers to a central disappearing point. The painting celebrates Florence’s victory over Siena.

In room 8, the highlights are Piero della Francesca’s famous profile portraits of the crooked-nosed, red-robed Duke and Duchess of Urbino (1465) – the former always painted left-side after losing his right eye in a jousting accident and the latter painted a deathly white, reflecting the fact that the portrait was painted posthumously.

Carmelite monk Fra’ Filippo Lippi had an unfortunate soft spot for earthly pleasures, scandalously marrying a nun from Prato (see the boxed text on Click here). Search out his self-portrait as a podgy friar in Coronation of the Virgin (1439–47) and don’t miss his later Madonna and Child with Two Angels (1460–65), an exquisite work that clearly influenced his pupil, Sandro Botticelli.

Another related pair, brothers Antonio and Piero del Pollaiolo, fill room 9, where their seven cardinal and theological values of 15th-century Florence – commissioned for the merchant’s tribunal in Piazza della Signoria – ooze energy.

Botticelli Room

The spectacular Sala del Botticelli, numbered 10 to 14 but in fact one large hall, is one of the Uffizi’s most popular rooms and is always packed. Of the 15 works by the Renaissance master, Birth of Venus (c 1484), Primavera (Spring; c 1478), the deeply spiritual Cestello Annunciation (1489–90), the Adoration of the Magi (1475, featuring the artist’s self-portrait on the extreme right) and The Madonna of the Magnificat (1483) are the best known, but true aficionados rate his twin set of miniatures depicting a sword-bearing Judith returning from the camp of Holofernes and the discovery of the decapitated Holofernes in his tent (1495–1500) as being among his finest works.

Leonardo Room

Room 15 displays two early Florentine works by Leonardo da Vinci: the incomplete Adoration of the Magi (1481–82), drawn in red earth pigment, and his Annunciation (c 1472).

La Tribuna

The Medici clan stashed away their most precious masterpieces in this exquisite octagonal-shaped treasure trove (room 18) created by Francesco I. Today their family portraits hang on the red upholstered walls and a walkway leads visitors around the edge. The popular favourites here are the Bronzino portraits of the family of Cosimo I, including his wife Eleonora di Toledo (painted with their son Giovanni), the duke himself, young Giovanni holding a bird, daughter Bia and son Francesco.

High Renaissance to Mannerism

In the third corridor, Michelangelo dazzles with the Tondo Doni, a depiction of the Holy Family that steals the High Renaissance show in room 25. The composition is unusual – Joseph holding an exuberant Jesus on his muscled mother’s shoulder as she twists round to gaze at him, the colours as vibrant as when they were first applied in 1504–06.

Raphael (1483–1520) and Andrea del Sarto (1486–1530) rub shoulders in room 26, where Raphael’s charming Madonna of the Goldfinch (1505–06) holds centre stage.

Previous works by Tuscan masters can be compared with the greater naturalism inherent in the work of their Venetian counterparts in room 28, where 11 Titians are displayed. Masterpieces include the sensual nude Venus of Urbino (1538), the seductive Flora (1515) and the striking portrait of Eleonora Gonzaga, Duchess of Urbino (1536–37).

Room 29 is notable for Parmigianino’s oddly elongated Madonna of the Long Neck (1534–40), and subsequent rooms feature works by Paolo Veronese, Tintoretto, Rubens and Rembrandt. Don’t miss room 42, known as the Niobe Room, which was built to house a group of statues representing Niobe and her children. Discovered in a Roman vineyard in 1583 and brought to Florence in 1775, the works are 4th-century BC Roman copies of Greek originals.

Baroque & Neoclassicism

Downstairs on the 1st floor (something of a building site as the Uffizi undergoes its much-anticipated revamp) are an intense and dramatic group of works by Caravaggio (1573–1610) and his admirers. These include the artist’s Bacchus (1595–97) and Medusa (1595–98) as well as Artemisia Gentileschi’s gruesome Judith Slaying Holofernes (1620–21). One of the first female artists to be acclaimed in post-Renaissance Italy, Gentileschi (1593–1653), the victim in a highly scandalous seven-month rape trial, painted strong women seeking revenge on evil males. Like Caravaggio, she used chiaroscuro (contrast of light and dark) to full dramatic effect.

Palazzo del Bargello

It was behind the stark exterior of the Palazzo del Bargello, Florence’s earliest public building, that the podestà meted out justice from the late 13th century until 1502. Today the building, which is northeast of the Uffizi, is home to the Museo del Bargello (Map; 055 238 86 06; Via del Proconsolo 4; €7; 8.15am-5pm Tue-Sun & 1st & 3rd Mon of the month), Italy’s most comprehensive collection of Tuscan Renaissance sculpture.

Crowds clamour to see David in the Galleria dell’Accademia but few rush to see his creator’s early works, many of which are on display in the Bargello’s downstairs Sala di Michelangelo. The artist was just 21 when a cardinal commissioned him to create the drunken, grape-adorned Bacchus (1496–97) displayed here. Other Michelangelo works to look out for include the marble bust of Brutus (c 1539–40), the David/Apollo from 1530–32 and the large, uncompleted roundel of the Madonna and Child with the Infant St John (1503–05, aka the Tondo Pitti).

On the 1st floor, to the right of the staircase, is the Sala di Donatello. Here, in the majestic Salone del Consiglio Generale where the city’s general council met, works by Donatello and other early 15th-century sculptors can be admired. Originally on the facade of Chiesa di Orsanmichele and now within a tabernacle at the hall’s far end, Donatello’s wonderful St George (1416–17) brought a new sense of perspective and movement to Italian sculpture.

Yet it is his two versions of David, a favourite subject for sculptors, which really fascinate: Donatello fashioned his slender, youthful, dressed image in marble in 1408 and his fabled bronze between 1440 and 1450. The latter is extraordinary – the more so when you consider it was the first freestanding naked statue to be sculpted since classical times.

Santa Maria Novella Area

From the Uffizi, walk west along the Lungarno, passing the Ponte Vecchio, until you reach the Ponte Santa Trìnita (Map), rebuilt after being destroyed during WWII. Michelangelo is believed to have drawn the original plan of the bridge, which was executed by Ammannati.

CUT THE QUEUE

In summer and in busy periods such as Easter, ridiculously long queues are a fact of life at Florence’s major museums, leading to waits of up to four hours if you haven’t booked a ticket in advance.

For a fee of €3 per ticket (€4 for the Uffizi and Galleria dell’Accademia), tickets to all 13 musei statali (state museums) can be reserved, including the Uffizi, Galleria dell’Accademia (where David lives), Palazzo Pitti, Museo del Bargello and the Medicean chapels (Cappelle Medicee). In reality, the only museums where pre-booking is necessary are the Uffizi and the Accademia – for these, prebooking is a really good idea. To organise your ticket, telephone Firenze Musei (Florence Museums; 055 29 48 83, 055 265 43 21; booking line 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat) or use the online booking facility at www.firenzemusei.it.

At the Uffizi, signs point prebooked-ticket holders to the building opposite the gallery where prebooked tickets can be collected; once you’ve got the ticket you go to Door One of the museum (for prebooked tickets only) and queue again to enter the gallery. It’s annoying, but you’ll still save hours of queuing time overall.

In Florence, tickets can easily be prebooked a day or two ahead of time at Firenze Musei information desks ( 8.30am-7pm Tue-Sun) in the Galleria degli Uffizi, Palazzo Pitti or the ticket window at the rear of the Chiesa di Orsanmichele – if you’re in town for a few days, this is the savvy thing to do.

Many hotels and B&Bs also prebook museum tickets for guests.

Turning right (north) into Via de’ Tornabuoni, you arrive at 14th-century Chiesa della Santa Trìnita (Map; Piazza Santa Trìnita), rebuilt in Gothic style and later graced with a mannerist facade. Eye-catching frescoes by Domenico Ghirlandaio depict the life of St Francis of Assisi in the south transept’s Cappella Sassetti. Lorenzo Monaco, Fra’ Angelico’s master, painted the altarpiece in the fourth chapel on the south aisle and the frescoes on the chapel walls.

Further north again is the Basilica di Santa Maria Novella (Map; 055 21 59 18; Piazza di Santa Maria Novella; admission €2.50; 9am-5pm Mon-Thu, 1-5pm Fri), begun in the late 13th century as the Dominican order’s Florentine base. The lower section of the marble facade is transitional from Romanesque to Gothic, while the upper section (1470) and main doorway were designed by Alberti. The highlight of the Gothic interior, halfway along the north aisle, is Masaccio’s superb fresco Trinity (1424–25), one of the first artworks to use the then newly discovered techniques of perspective and proportion. Close by, hanging in the nave, is a luminous painted Crucifix by Giotto (c 1290).

The first chapel to the right of the altar, Cappella di Filippo Strozzi, features lively frescoes by Filippo Lippi depicting the lives of St John the Evangelist and St Philip. Another important work is Ghirlandaio’s series of frescoes behind the main altar, painted with the help of artists who may have included the young Michelangelo. Relating the lives of the Virgin Mary, St John the Baptist and others, the frescoes are notable for their depiction of Florentine life during the Renaissance.

To reach the Museo di Santa Maria Novella (Map; 055 28 21 87; adult/child/concession €2.70/1/2; 9am-5pm Mon-Thu & Sat), exit the church and then follow signs for the museo. Arranged around the monastery’s tranquil Chiostro Verde (Green Cloister; 1332–62), which takes its name from the green earth base used for the frescoes on three of the cloister’s four walls, the museum’s indisputable highlight is the spectacular Cappellone degli Spagnoli (Spanish Chapel) on the north side of the cloister, which is covered in extraordinary frescoes (c 1365–67) by Andrea di Bonaiuto. The vault features depictions of the Resurrection, Ascension and Pentecost and on the altar wall are scenes of the Via Dolorosa, Crucifixion and Descent into Limbo. On the right wall is a huge fresco of The Militant and Triumphant Church – look in the foreground (right) for a portrait of Cimabue, Giotto, Boccaccio, Petrarch and Dante. Other frescoes in the chapels depict the Triumph of Christian Doctrine, 14 figures symbolising the Arts and Sciences and the Life of St Peter.

End your stroll around Santa Maria Novella with a visit to the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella (Map; 055 21 62 76; Via della Scala 16; 9.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-8.30pm Sun), a perfumery-pharmacy in business since 1612. It’s famed for the remedies it concocts – after a day spent queuing at the Uffizi or Galleria dell’Accademia you may want to stock up on its famous Acqua di Santa Maria Novella, which is said to be good for curing hysterics. Visit the free museum ( 10am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) adjoining the shop to learn more.

San Lorenzo Area

In 1425 the Medici commissioned Brunelleschi to rebuild what would become the family’s parish church and funeral chapter: 50-odd Medici are buried inside Basilica di San Lorenzo (Map; Piazza San Lorenzo; admission €3.50, joint ticket covering basilica & biblioteca €6; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat, 1.30-5pm Sun), one of the most harmonious examples of Renaissance architecture. However, it looks nothing from the outside: Michelangelo was commissioned to design the facade in 1518 but his design in white Carrara marble was never executed, hence its rough unfinished appearance.

Inside, columns of pietra serena (soft grey stone) crowned with Corinthian capitals separate the nave from the two aisles. Donatello, who was still sculpting the two bronze pulpits adorned with panels of the Crucifixion when he died, is buried in the chapel featuring Fra’ Filippo Lippi’s Annunciation (c 1450). Left of the altar is the Sagrestia Vecchia (Old Sacristy), designed by Brunelleschi and decorated in the main by Donatello.

To the left of the basilica’s entrance are peaceful cloisters, off which an extraordin­ary staircase designed by Michelangelo leads to the Biblioteca Medicea Laurenziana (Map; 055 21 15 90; www.bml.firenze.sbn.it; Piazza San Lorenzo 9; admission €3, joint ticket covering basilica & biblioteca €6; 9.30am-1pm Sun-Fri), commissioned by Giulio de’ Medici (Pope Clement VII) in 1524 to house the extensive Medici library that had been started by Cosimo the Elder and greatly added to by Lorenzo the Magnificent.

Nowhere is Medici conceit expressed so explicitly as in their mausoleum, the Cappelle Medicee (Medicean Chapels; 055 238 86 02; Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini; adult/concession €6/3; 8.15am-4.50pm Tue-Sat, 1st & 3rd Sun & 2nd & 4th Mon of month). Principal burial place of the Medici rulers, it’s sumptuously adorned with granite, the most precious marble, semiprecious stones and some of Michelangelo’s most beautiful sculptures. Francesco I lies in the Cappella dei Principi (Princes’ Chapel) alongside Ferdinando I and II and Cosimo I, II and III. From here, a corridor leads to the stark but graceful Sagrestia Nuova (New Sacristy), Michelangelo’s first architectural work and showcase for three of his most haunting sculptures: Dawn and Dusk, Night and Day and Madonna and Child.

Just off Piazza San Lorenzo is the Palazzo Medici-Riccardi (Map; 055 276 03 40; www.palazzo-medici.it; Via Cavour 3; adult/concession €7/4; 9am-7pm Thu-Tue), principal Medici residence until 1540 and the prototype for other palazzi in the city. Inside, the Capella di Benozzo (Chapel of the Magi) houses one of the supreme achievements of Renaissance painting and is an absolute must-see for art lovers. The tiny space is covered in a series of wonderfully detailed and recently restored frescoes (c 1459–63) by Benozzo Gozzoli, a pupil of Fra’ Angelico. His ostensible theme of Procession of the Magi to Bethlehem is but a slender pretext for portraying members of the Medici clan in their best light; try to spy Lorenzo il Magnifico and Cosimo the Elder in the crowd. Only 10 visitors are allowed into the chapel at a time for a maximum of just five minutes; reserve your slot in advance at the palace ticket desk.

San Marco Area

At the heart of Florence’s university area sits the Chiesa di San Marco (Map; Piazza San Marco) and the adjoining Dominican convent that houses the Museo di San Marco (Map; 055 238 86 08; Piazza San Marco 1; adult/concession €4/2; 8.15am-1.50pm Tue-Fri, to 4.50pm Sat, 2nd & 4th Sun & 1st, 3rd & 5th Mon of month), a showcase of the work of Fra’ Angelico and one of Florence’s most spiritually uplifting museums.

Enter the museum via Michelozzo’s Cloister of Saint Antoninus (1440). Turn immediately right to enter the Sala dell’Ospizio (Pilgrims’ Hospital), where Fra’ Angelico’s attention to perspective and the realistic portrayal of nature comes to life in a number of major paintings, including the Deposition of Christ (1432). On the 1st floor, Fra’ Angelico’s most famous work, Annunciation (c 1440), commands all eyes, and a stroll around the monks’ living quarters reveals snippets of many more fine religious reliefs by the Tuscan-born friar, who decorated the cells between 1440–41 with deeply devotional frescoes to guide the meditation of his fellow friars. Most were executed by Fra’ Angelico himself; others are by aides under his supervision, including Benozzo Gozzoli. Among several masterpieces is the magnificent Adoration of the Magi in the cell used by Cosimo the Elder as a meditation retreat (No 38–39). Quite a few of the frescoes are extremely gruesome – check out the cell of San Antonino Arcivescovo, which features a depiction of Jesus pushing open the door of his sepulchre, squashing a nasty-looking devil in the process.

From Piazza San Marco, follow Via Cesare Battisti east to the beautiful Piazza della SS Annunziata, where Giambologna’s equestrian statue of Grand Duke Ferdinando I de’ Medici overlooks the scene. During summer, the piazza hosts the popular Jazz & Co festival (Click here).

Chiesa della SS Annunziata (Map; Piazza della SS Annunziata; 7.30am-12.30pm & 4-6.30pm), established in 1250 and rebuilt by Michelozzo and others in the mid-15th century, is dedicated to the Virgin Mary. It houses frescoes by Andrea del Castagno, Perugino, Andrea del Sarto and Jacopo Pontormo.

On the piazza’s southeastern side, the Spedale degli Innocenti (Hospital of the Innocents; Map; Piazza della SS Annunziata 12) was founded in 1421 as Europe’s first orphanage (hence the ‘innocents’ in its name). Filippo Brunelleschi designed the portico, which Andrea della Robbia (1435–1525) decorated with terracotta medallions of babies in swaddling clothes. At the north end of the portico, the false door surrounded by railings was once a revolving door where unwanted children were left. A good number of people in Florence with surnames such as degli Innocenti, Innocenti and Nocentini can trace their family tree only as far back as this orphanage. Inside, the Museo dello Spedale degli Innocenti ( 055 203 73 08; www.istitutodeglinnocenti.it; adult/concession €4/2.50; 8.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, to 2pm Sun) on the 2nd floor is home to works by Florentine artists, including Marco della Robbia, Sandro Botticelli and Domenico Ghirlandaio.

About 200m southeast of the piazza is the Museo Archeologico (Map; 055 23 57 50; Via della Colonna 38; adult/concession €4/2; 2-7pm Mon, 8.30am-7pm Tue & Thu, 8.30am-2pm Wed & Fri-Sun). Its rich collection of finds, including most of the Medici hoard of antiquities, plunges you deep into the past and offers an alternative to all that Renaissance splendour. On the 1st floor you can either head left into the ancient Egyptian collection or right for the smaller section on Etruscan and Graeco-Roman art.

The Galleria dell’Accademia (Map; 055 29 48 83; Via Ricasoli 60; adult/concession €6.50/3.25; 8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun) displays paintings by Florentine artists spanning the 13th to 16th centuries. But its main draw is Michelangelo’s David, carved from a single block of marble when the artist was only 29. Reserve your ticket in advance Click here if you don’t want to queue for hours before entering.

Santa Croce Area

When Lucy Honeychurch, the heroine of E M Forster’s A Room With a View, is stranded in the Santa Croce without a Baedeker, she first panics and then, looking around, wonders why the basilica is thought to be such an important building. After all, doesn’t it look just like a barn?

On entering, many visitors to the massive Franciscan Basilica di Santa Croce (Map; 055 246 61 05; adult/concession incl Museo dell’Opera €5/3; 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 1-5.30pm Sun) share the same reaction. The austere interior can come as something of a shock after the magnificent neo-Gothic facade, which is enlivened by vary­ing shades of coloured marble (both it and the campanile are 19th-century additions). The church itself was designed by Arnolfo di Cambio between 1294 and 1385 and owes its name to a splinter of the Holy Cross donated by King Louis of France in 1258.

Though most visitors come to see the tombs of famous Florentines buried inside this church – including Michelangelo, Galileo, Ghiberti and Machiavelli – it’s the frescoes by Giotto and his school in the chapels to the right of the altar that are the real highlight. Some of these are substantially better preserved than others – Giotto’s murals in the Capella Peruzzi are in particularly poor condition. Fortunately, those in the Capella Bardi depicting scenes from the life of St Francis (1315–20) have fared better. Giotto’s assistant and most loyal pupil, Taddeo Gaddi, frescoed the neighbouring Chapelle Majeure and nearby Capella Baroncelli; the latter takes as its subject the life of the Virgin (1332–38).

Taddeo’s son Agnolo painted the Cappella Castellani (1385) with delightful frescoes depicting the life of St Nicholas (later transformed into ‘Santa Claus’) and was also responsible for the frescoes above the altar.

From the transept chapels a doorway designed by Michelozzo leads into a corridor, off which is the Sagrestia, an enchanting 14th-century room dominated on the left by Taddeo Gaddi’s fresco of the Crucifixion. There are also a few relics of St Francis on show, including his cowl and belt. Through the next room, the church bookshop, you can access the Scuola del Cuoio ( 055 24 45 33; www.scuoladelcuoio.com; Via San Giuseppe 5r; 10am-6pm), a leather school and shop where you can see the goods being fashioned and also buy the finished products. At the end of the corridor is a Medici chapel with a fine two-tone altarpiece in glazed terracotta by Andrea della Robbia.

The second of Santa Croce’s two serene cloisters was designed by Brunelleschi just before his death in 1446. His unfinished Cappella de’ Pazzi at the end of the first cloister is notable for its harmonious lines and restrained terracotta medallions of the Apostles by Luca della Robbia, and is a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture.

The Museo dell’Opera di Santa Croce (Map; admission incl basilica adult/concession €5/3; 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat, 1-5.30pm Sun) is located off the first cloister. It features a Crucifixion by Cimabue, restored to the best degree possible after flood damage in 1966 when more than 4m of water inundated the Santa Croce area. Other highlights include Donatello’s gilded bronze statue St Louis of Toulouse (1424), originally placed in a tabernacle on the Orsanmichele facade; a wonderful terracotta bust of St Francis receiving the stigmata by the della Robbia workshop; and frescoes by Taddeo Gaddi, including The Last Supper (1333).

The Oltrarno

Literally ‘Beyond the Arno’, the atmospheric Oltrarno takes in all of Florence south of the river.

PONTE VECCHIO

This famous bridge has twinkled with the glittering wares of jewellers ever since the 16th century, when Ferdinando I de’ Medici ordered them here to replace the often mal­odorous presence of the town butchers, who were wont to toss unwanted leftovers into the river.

MICHELE GIUTTARI

Why do you set your crime novels in Florence? Florence is a city with a double face. It has a beautiful side, but there’s also a dark side. I know this because I worked with this dark side for many years…I saw what the tourists don’t see.

How did you become familiar with this ‘dark face’? I spent eight years as the head of Florence’s Squadra Mobile (elite police investigative unit) and four years as the head of a special taskforce investigating the Monster of Florence case.

What was that? Between 1974 and 1985, seven couples were murdered while making love in cars parked in the hills around Florence. Despite our best efforts, the killer was never found; the case is now closed.

The main character in your novels, Michele Ferrara, is also the head of the Squadra Mobile. Are you and he one and the same? We’re very similar in terms of character, so I suppose you could call him my alter ego. He can do things I couldn’t, though…he gets his evidence together and solves cases quickly. It’s easy to do this in a novel, but not so easy in real life!

The plot in A Florentine Death is about a serial killer on the loose in Florence and A Death in Tuscany is about a high-level conspiracy surrounding the murder of a girl just outside the city. Were you inspired by your work on the Monster case? I started writing as a release valve when I was working on the Monster case, so it must have had an influence.

Did you work on other high-profile cases? I was head of Florence’s anti-Mafia squad when the Cosa Nostra bombed the Uffizi in 1993. It’s still fresh in my mind, and I put it into my latest book, La Donna della ‘ndrangheta.

And what about the beautiful side of Florence? I love to walk across the Ponte Vecchio (above), along the Lungarno and up to Piazzale Michelangelo, where I sit on the terrace at La Loggia and enjoy the view. I will never get tired of how beautiful this city is. Even so, every now and then I see a place where crimes were committed and I am reminded of its dark heart…

Michele Giuttari is the author of the bestselling crime novels Scarabeo (published in English as A Florentine Death), La Loggia degli Innocenti (A Death in Tuscany) and La Donna della ‘ndrangheta (Death of a Mafia Don).

The bridge as it stands was built in 1345 and was the only one in Florence saved from destruction by the retreating Germans in 1944. Look above the shops on the eastern side and you will see the Corridoio Vasariano, an elevated covered passageway joining the Palazzo Vecchio, Uffizi and Palazzo Pitti that was designed by Vasari for Cosimo I in 1565. Its original design incorporated small windows to ensure the privacy of the Medici family members who used it, but when Hitler visited Florence in 1941, his mate and fellow dictator Benito Mussolini had new windows punched into the corridor walls over the bridge so that his guest could enjoy an expansive view down the Arno. The corridor is currently closed for restoration.

At the southern end of the bridge is the medieval Torre dei Mannelli (Map) which looks rather odd, as the Corridoio Vasariano was built around it, not simply straight through it as the Medici would have preferred.

PALAZZO PITTI

Begun in 1458 for the Pitti family, rivals of the Medici, the original nucleus of this palace (Map; 055 94 48 83; Piazza de’ Pitti 1) took up the space encompassing the seven sets of windows on the 2nd and 3rd storeys. Cosimo I and Eleonora di Toledo acquired the palace in 1549 and it remained the official residence of Florence’s rulers until 1919, when the Savoys handed it over to the state.

The ground-floor Museo degli Argenti (Silver Museum; 8.15am-7.30pm Jun-Aug, to 6.30pm Mar-May & Sep, to 5.30pm Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Feb, closed 1st & last Mon of month) often has no silver on display. Go figure. Come instead to see the elaborately frescoed audience chambers, which host temporary exhibitions.

Raphaels and Rubens vie for centre stage in the enviable collection of 16th- to 18th-century art amassed by the Medici and Lorraine dukes in the 1st-floor Galleria Palatina ( 8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun), reached via staircase from the palace’s central courtyard. This gallery has retained the original display arrangement of paintings (squeezed in, often on top of each other) so can be visually overwhelming – go slow and focus on the works one by one.

Highlights include Filippo Lippi’s Madonna and Child with Stories from the Life of St Anne (aka the Tondo Bartolini; 1452–53) and Botticelli’s Madonna with Child and a Young Saint John the Baptist (c 1490–95) in the Sala di Prometeo; Raphael’s Madonna of the Window (1513–14) in the Sala di Ulisse; and Caravaggio’s Sleeping Cupid (1608) in the Sala dell’Educazione di Giove. Don’t miss the Sala di Saturno, which is full of magnificent works by Raphael, including the Madonna of the Chair (1511) and portraits of Anolo Doni and Maddalena Strozzi (c 1506). Nearby, in the Sala di Giove, the same artist’s Lady with a Veil (aka La Velata; c 1516) holds court alongside Giorgione’s Three Ages of Man (c 1500). The sentimental favourite, Tiberio Titi’s charming portrait of the young Prince Leopoldo de’ Medici, hangs in the Sala di Apollo and the Sala di Venere shines with Titian’s Portrait of a Lady (c 1536).

Past the Sala di Venere is the Appartamenti Reali (Royal Apartments; 8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun Feb-Dec), a series of rooms presented as they were c 1880–91, when they were occupied by members of the House of Savoy. The style and division of tasks assigned to each room is reminiscent of Spanish royal palaces, all heavily bedecked with drapes, silk and chandeliers.

Forget about Marini, Mertz or Clemente – the collection of the 2nd-floor Galleria d’Arte Moderna (Gallery of Modern Art; 8.15am-6.50pm Tue-Sun) is dominated by late-19th-century works by artists of the Florentine Macchiaioli school (the local equivalent of Impressionism), including Telemaco Signorini (1835–1901) and Giovanni Fattori (1825–1908).

PALAZZO PITTI TICKETING

There are two tickets on sale at the office to the far right of the main entrance. The first (adult/concession €6/3) gives you entrance to the Costume Gallery, Boboli Gardens, Silver Museum, Porcelain Museum and Bardini Gardens. The second (€8.50/4.25) covers the Royal Apartments, Palatine Gallery and Gallery of Modern Art. Note that tickets are more expensive if temporary exhibitions are being staged. If there are no temporary exhibitions, you may purchase a combined ticket (€11.50, valid three days), which gives access to all sights. To do everything here justice, you’ll need a full day.

Few visitors make the effort to visit the Pitti’s Galleria del Costume (Costume Gallery; 8.15am-7.30pm Jun-Aug, to 6.30pm Mar-May & Sep, to 5.30pm Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Feb, closed 1st & last Mon of month), thus missing its absolutely fascinating, if somewhat macabre, display of the semi-decomposed burial clothes of Cosimo I, his wife Eleonora di Toledo and their son Don Garzia. Considering their age and the fact that they were buried for centuries, Eleonora’s gown and silk stockings are remarkably preserved, as are Cosimo’s satin doublet and wool breeches and Garzia’s doublet, beret and short cape.

Giardino di Boboli

The palace’s expansive Boboli Gardens (Map; 8.15am-7.30pm Jun-Aug, to 6.30pm Mar-May & Sep, to 5.30pm Oct, to 4.30pm Nov-Feb, closed 1st & last Mon of the month) were laid out in the mid-16th century according to a design by architect Niccolò Pericoli, aka Il Tribolo.

Boboli is a prime example of a formal Tuscan garden and is fun to explore: skip along Cypress Alley; let the imagination rip with a gallant frolic in the walled Giardino del Cavaliere (Knights’ Garden); dance around 170-odd statues; meditate next to the Isoletto, a gorgeous ornamental pond; discover species and birdsong in the garden along the signposted nature trail; or watch a fleshy Venere (Venus) by Giambologna rise from the waves in the Grotta del Buontalenti (Map; visits at 11am, 1pm, 3pm, 4pm & 5pm).

At the upper, southern limit of the gardens, fantastic views over the palace complex and Florentine countryside fan out beyond the box-hedged rose garden, overlooked by the Museo delle Porcellane (Porcelain Museum; Map), home to Sèvres, Vincennes, Meissen, Wedgwood and other porcelain pieces collected by Palazzo Pitti’s wealthy tenants.

GIARDINO DI BARDINI

Florence’s little-known Bardini Gardens (Map; 055 29 48 83; Costa San Giorgio 4-6 via Boboli Gardens & Via de’ Bardi 1r; adult/concession incl Boboli Gardens & Porcelain Museum €5/2.50; 8.15am-sunset) was named after art collector Stefano Bardini (1836–1922) who bought the villa and gardens in 1913. Accessible from Boboli or down by the Arno, it has all the features of a quint­essential Tuscan garden – artificial grottoes, orangery, marble statues, fountains, loggia, amphitheatre and a monumental baroque stone staircase staggering up the beautiful tiered gardens – but without the crowds of other gardens.

Its charming Belvedere Caffé (coffee €3, tea with biscotti €5, panino €3), which is set in a loggia overlooking the Florentine skyline, is a wonderful spot for a light lunch or afternoon tea.

Inside the villa is the Museo Bardini ( 055 263 85 99; www.bardinipeyron.it, in Italian; adult/concession €6/4; 10am-6pm Wed-Sun Apr-Sep, to 4pm Wed-Fri, to 6pm Sat & Sun Oct-Mar), home to a collection of Roberto Capucci—designed haute couture and host to other temporary exhibitions.

From here, you can return to the Boboli Gardens on the same ticket or exit at Via de’ Bardi.

PIAZZALE MICHELANGELO

Turn your back on the bevy of ticky-tacky souvenir stalls and take in the soaring city pano­rama from Piazzale Michelangelo (Map), pierced by one of Florence’s two David copies. The square is a 10-minute uphill walk along the winding route that scales the hillside from the river and Piazza Giuseppe Poggi.

Bus 13 links Stazione di Santa Maria Novella with Piazzale Michelangelo.

CHURCHES

The Oltrarno has a trio of churches worth seeking out.

The real point of your exertions up to Piazzale Michelangelo is five minutes further uphill, where the wonderful Romanesque Chiesa di San Miniato al Monte (Map; Via Monte alle Croce; admission free; 8am-7pm May-Oct, 8am-noon & 3-6pm Nov-Apr) is found. The church is dedicated to St Minius, an early Christian martyr in Florence who is said to have flown to this spot after his death down in the town (or, if you want to believe an alternative version, to have walked up the hill with his head tucked underneath his arm).

The church dates to the early 11th century, although its typical Tuscan multicoloured marble facade was tacked on a couple of centuries later. Inside, 13th- to 15th-century frescoes adorn the south wall and intricate inlaid marble designs line the nave, leading to a fine Romanesque crypt. The sacristy (requested donation €1) in the southeast corner features frescoes by Spinello Arentino depicting the life of St Benedict. Slap bang in the middle of the nave is the bijou Capella del Crocefisso, to which Michelozzo, Agnolo Gaddi and Luca della Robbia all contributed.

The 13th-century Basilica di Santa Maria del Carmine (Map; Piazza del Carmine) was all but destroyed by fire in the late 18th century. Fortunately the magnificent frescoes by Masaccio in its Cappella Brancacci ( advance reservations 055 276 82 24, 055 76 85 58; admission €4; 10am-4.30pm Wed-Sat & Mon, 1-4.30pm Sun), entered next to the basilica on the square, were spared. A maximum of 30 visitors are allowed in the chapel at a time and visits are by guided tour; places must be prebooked. Unfortunately, visits are often marred by the belligerent attitude taken by the attendants, who strictly enforce the ridiculous 15-minute-visit rule that applies here. How the church authorities think that this is enough time to appreciate the magnificent frescoes on show is an absolute mystery.

Considered the painter’s finest work, the frescoes with their vibrant colours had an enormous influence on 15th-century Florentine art. Masaccio painted them in his early 20s but interrupted the task to go to Rome, where he died aged only 28. Filippino Lippi completed the cycle some 60 years later. Masaccio’s contribution includes the Expulsion of Adam and Eve from Paradise and The Tribute Money on the chapel’s upper left wall.

The Basilica di Santo Spirito (Map; Piazza Santo Spirito; 9.30am-12.30pm & 4-5.30pm Thu-Tue), one of Brunelleschi’s last commissions, is beautifully planned, with a colonnade of 35 columns and a series of semicircular chapels. The chapels’ works of art include a poorly lit Madonna and Saints (1493–94) by Filippino Lippi in the Cappella Nerli in the right transept. Ask an attendant to show you the sacristy, where you’ll find a poignant wooden crucifix attributed by some critics to Michelangelo.

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COURSES

Florence has zillions of schools running courses in Italian language and culture. Numerous others teach art, art history, film, dance, cooking and so on. Here are a few:

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FLORENCE FOR CHILDREN

Several locally published books and games help children discover Florence – the bookshop in Palazzo Vecchio has a tip-top selection.

The Palazzo Vecchio offers wonderful guided tours for children. These involve actors dressed in Renaissance costume who rope young participants into the performance, imparting loads of interesting historical facts in the process and visiting secret places within the palace. A sumptuously attired Eleonora of Toledo, clearly shocked by the casual attire of today’s children, has been known to give advice about proper grooming for young ladies, and Cosimo I is happy to lay down the law about the proper age for a Medici to take on duties as a cardinal (the answer is 14, the age of his son Ferdinando when he became a cardinal).

It is highly advisable to book the Palazzo Vecchio tours in advance by visiting the desk behind the ticket office on the day before your visit, by emailing info@museoragazzi@comune.fi.it or by telephoning 055 276 82 24.

The best children’s playgrounds (Map) for kids under six are in Oltrarno: the river­side space along Lungarno di Santa Rosa (cross the river using Ponte Amerigo Vespucci and turn right) and on Piazza Torquato Tasso. To give kids space to run around, head to the Giardino di Boboli (opposite).

A gelato stop always functions as an excellent bribe to ensure good behaviour; see the boxed text on Click here for a list of the best gelato joints in the city. For a gift to make little eyes light up, visit Letizia Fiorini (Map; 055 21 65 04; Via del Parione 60r; Tue-Sat 10.30am-7.30pm), a tiny workshop selling reasonably priced and utterly adorable handmade puppets.

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TOURS

Bus

Cycling

Walking

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FESTIVALS & EVENTS

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SLEEPING

The city has hundreds of hotels, some excellent hostels and a burgeoning B&B scene. Places in this section have been selected for their good value for money; plenty more Florence options are reviewed online at www.lonelyplanet.com.

Tourist offices don’t recommend or reserve places, but do carry lists of what is available, including affittacamere (rooms for rent in private houses).

ACCOMMODATION AGENCIES

These agencies – two of which have offices inside the main train station – can find/reserve a hotel room in Florence for you, sometimes at no charge, sometimes for a small fee.

Duomo & Piazza della Signoria

BUDGET

Hotel Cestelli (Map; 055 21 42 13; www.hotelcestelli.com; Borgo SS Apostoli 25; s €40-60, d €50-80, d with bathroom €70-100; closed 2 weeks Jan, 3 weeks Aug) The scent of joss sticks and flicker of night lights add a soothing Zen air to this eight-room hotel on the 1st floor of a 12th-century palazzo. The location off Via de’ Tornabuoni is wonderful and though the rooms are dark, they are attractively furnished, quiet and cool.

Hotel Dalí (Map; 055 234 07 06; www.hoteldali.com; Via dell’Oriuolo 17; s €34-40, d €56-65, d with bathroom €68-80; closed 3 weeks Jan; ) This spruce, simple hotel on ‘Clock Rd’ is run with unrelenting energy and smiles by Marco and Samanta. Rooms overlooking the leafy inner courtyard are serene; those facing the street can be noisy. Doubles are big and easily sleep four or five (extra bed €25) and there’s free parking for motoring guests – a rare occurrence in Florence.

Hotel Orchidea (Map; 055 248 03 46; www.hotelorchideaflorence.it; Borgo degli Albizi 11; s €30-60, d €50-80) This old-fashioned pensione in the mansion where the Donati family roosted in the 13th-century (Dante’s wife, Gemma, was allegedly born in the tower) is charm itself. Its seven rooms with sink and shared bathroom are simple; Nos 5, 6 and 7 have huge windows overlooking a gorgeous garden while No 4 spills out onto a terrace. No credit cards.

Hotel San Giovanni (Map; 055 28 83 85; www.hotelsangiovanni.com; Via de’ Cerretani 2; s with shared bathroom €30-58, d with shared bathroom €40-75, d with bathroom €65-95; ) Buzz to enter and ride the rattly old cage lift (forget jumbo-sized suitcases) up to what was once the bishop’s private residence in this 14th-century palazzo. Lofty ceilings top off nine light and spacious rooms, just two of which have a private bathroom: Nos 6, 7 and 8 look at the cathedral. Breakfast costs an extra €5.

MIDRANGE

Borghese Palace Art Hotel (Map; 055 28 43 63; www.borghesepalace.it; Via Ghibellina 174r; s €120, d €140-190, ste €230-240; ) A key address for art lovers, this stylish ode to design with a glass-topped courtyard and sculptures looming large in the reception showcases original works of art from the 18th century to present day. The location couldn’t be more central, breakfast is on a terrace with magnificent views and there’s an in-house spa.

Hotel Perseo (Map; 055 21 25 04; www.hotelperseo.it; Via de’ Cerretani 1; s €68-125, d €88-165; ) This three-star hotel was overhauled in 2006 and is run by a trio hailing from Italy, Australia and New Zealand. The decor is light and modern – flatscreen TVs, walk-in showersand mellow natural hues. Doubles cleverly turn into bunk-bed quads, making it a great family choice.

Relais del Duomo (Map; 055 21 01 47; www.relaisdelduomo.it, in Italian; Piazza dell’Olio 2; s €50-70, d €80-100; ) Location is the prime selling point of this B&B on a quiet traffic-free street around the corner from the Duomo. The four elegant, pastel-coloured rooms are simple but comfortable.

TOP END

Continentale (Map; 055 2 72 62; www.lungarnohotels.com; Vicolo dell’Oro 6r; d €300-390, ste €1250-1550; ) Owned by the Ferragamo fashion house and designed by fashionable Florentine architect Michel Bonan, this glamorous hotel references 1950s Italy in its vibrant decor, and is about as hip as Florence gets.

Santa Maria Novella Area

BUDGET

Ostello Archi Rossi (Map; 055 29 08 04; www.hostelarchirossi.com; Via Faenza 94r; dm €18-26; closed 2 weeks Dec; ) Guests’ paintings and graffiti pattern the walls at this ever-busy private hostel near Stazione di Santa Maria Novella. The bright dorms have three to nine beds; some are single-sex and all have private bathrooms. There are washing machines for guests to use (€6 wash and dry), keyed lockers and free internet and wi-fi. No curfew (knock to get in after 2am).

Ostello Gallo d’Oro (Map; 055 552 29 64; www.ostellogallodoro.com; 1st fl, Via Cavour 104; dm €27-32, d €70; ) Dorms at this popular choice max at five beds, all have private bathroom and TV and three have a balcony. Internet and wi-fi are free, breakfast is buffet-style, there are free dinners with wine and beer two nights per week and there’s no curfew.

MIDRANGE

Hotel Consigli (Map; 055 21 41 72; www.hotelconsigli.com; Lungarno Amerigo Vespucci 50; s €60-120, d €60-150; ) A short walk from town, this riverside Renaissance palace is perfect for guests who are travelling with their own car (it’s easy to access and has its own parking). The flowery terrace with deck chairs is a stargazer’s dream.

Hotel Paris (Map; 055 28 02 81; www.parishotel.it; Via dei Banchi 2; s €80-125, d €90-180; ) This pair of 15th-century palaces is linked on the 2nd floor by a glass walkway. Three-star rooms sport high ceilings, and window pelmets and bed-heads are adorned with rich, embroidered drapes. The painted ceiling in the breakfast room is breathtaking.

Hotel Santa Maria Novella (Map; 055 27 18 40; www.hotelsantamarianovella.it; Piazza di Santa Maria Novella 1; d €135-200, ste €180-235; ) The bland exterior of this excellent four-star choice gives no hint of the spacious and elegant rooms within. All are beautifully appointed, featuring marble bathrooms, comfortable beds and toiletries from the nearby Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. The breakfast spread is lavish and the online booking rates (cited above) are generous.

Hotel Scoti (Map; 055 29 21 28; www.hotelscoti.com; Via de’ Tornabuoni 7; s €40-75, d €65-125) Wedged between Dior, Prada and McQueen, this pensione is a splendid mix of old-fashioned charm and great value for money. Run with smiling aplomb by Australian Doreen and Italian Carmello, the hotel is enthroned in a 16th-century palazzo on Florence’s smartest shopping strip. The 11 rooms are clean and comfortable, but the star of the show is the floor-to-ceiling frescoed living room (1780). Breakfast costs an extra €5.

San Lorenzo Area

BUDGET & MIDRANGE

Academy Hostel & Lodge House (Map; 055 23986 65; www.academyhostel.eu; Via Ricasoli 9; dm €35-42, tw with bathroom €72-86; ) On the 1st floor of a 17th-century palazzo, this small and relatively new hostel has elicited rave reviews from some of our readers. Its philosophy is that cheap accommodation shouldn’t compromise on comfort – dorms (sleeping between three and six) are bright and well set up, with lockers and single beds (no bunks). Internet and wi-fi are free.

Johanna & Johlea (Map; 055 463 32 92; www.johanna.it; s €70-120, d €80-170; ) One of the most established B&Bs in town, J&J has more than a dozen tasteful, individually decor­ated rooms split between five historic residences; some with wi-fi connections. Those desiring total luxury should ask about the suite apartments.

Hotel Casci (Map; 055 21 16 86; www.hotelcasci.com; Via Cavour 13; s €50-110, d €80-150; closed 2 weeks Jan; ) This family-run place offers spick and span rooms with flatscreen satellite TVs, cramped but very clean bathrooms and a feisty breakfast buffet with a bottomless cappuccino. Pay cash and you’ll usually get a 10% to 15% discount.

San Marco Area

MIDRANGE

Hotel Morandi alla Crocetta (Map; 055 234 47 47; www.hotelmorandi.it; Via Laura 50; s €70-90, d €90-170; ) This medieval convent-turned-hotel away from the madding crowds is a stunner. Rooms are refined, tasteful and full of authentic period furnishings and paintings. A couple of rooms have handkerchief-sized gardens to laze in, but the pièce de résistance is frescoed room 29 – the former chapel.

Palazzo Alfani (Map; 055 29 15 74, 346 0339931; www.palazzoalfani.com; Via Ricasoli 49; 4-person apt €120-300, 8-person €240-500; ) Close to the Galleria dell’Accademia, the five beautiful apartments inside this convent-turned-palace are decorated with original prints and richly upholstered furniture; some overlook a pretty internal garden.

TOP END

Residence Hilda (Map; 055 28 80 29; www.residencehilda.it; Via dei Servi; 2-person apt €200-400, 4-person €300-400; ) The super-stylish lounge foyer gives a strong clue as to what can be found in the 12 upstairs suites at this recently opened residence. Apartments are serviced daily and have equipped kitchenettes, excellent bathrooms, decent workbenches and wonderfully comfy beds. The family suites are perfect if you have little ones in tow. Check the website for specials. No breakfast.

The Oltrarno

BUDGET

Campeggio Michelangelo (Map; 055 681 19 77; www.ecvacanze.it, in Italian; Viale Michelangelo 80; adult €9.30-10.60, car & tent €11.40-13; ) The closest campsite to the centre, just off Piazzale Michelangelo, south of the river Arno. Big and comparatively leafy with lovely city views and a bar-cafe, it’s handy for the historic quarter, though it’s a steep walk home. Solo backpackers with a tent can pitch up for €10.80 year-round and there are beds in tent dorms for €15.50. Take bus 13 from Stazione di Santa Maria Novella.

Ostello Santa Monaca (Map; 055 26 83 38; www.ostello.it; Via Santa Monaca 6; dm €15-20, d €40-48; ) Once a convent, this large Oltrarno hostel near San Spirito has been run by a cooperative since the 1960s. There’s a kitchen, laundrette, safe deposits and free internet access and wi-fi. Mixed- and single-sex dorms sleep four to 22 and are locked between 10am and 2pm. Curfew is 2am.

Althea (Map; 055 233 53 41; www.florencealthea.it; Via delle Caldaie 25; s €39-65, d €65-90; ) The decor might be 1970s flower power with plenty of chintz, but the good value for money provided by these seven rooms is outstanding. Each is spotlessly clean, and has its own bathroom, fridge and computer terminal.

MIDRANGE

Hotel La Scaletta (Map; 055 28 30 28; www.hotellascaletta.it; Via Guicciardini 13; s €79-94, d €84-109; ) An austere air wafts through this maze of a hotel, hidden in a 15th-century palazzo near the Palazzo Pitti. But rooms are spacious and taking breakfast/aperitivo on the roof terrace overlooking Boboli is a rare opportunity; rooms with garden views are approximately 20% more expensive.

Hotel Silla (Map; 055 234 28 88; www.hotelsilla.it; Via dei Renai 5; s €90-128, d €75-180; ) Briefly headquarters of the Allied Forces in 1944 and a pensione since 1964, Silla sits in a palace well away from the crowds in one of the leafiest parts of Florence. Once the leaves fall in autumn, several rooms and the breakfast terrace enjoy beguiling views across the Arno; otherwise, the outlook is green.

Residenza Santo Spirito (Map; 055 265 83 76; www.residenzasspirito.com; Piazza Santo Spirito 9; d €90-120; ) Located on Florence’s most buzzing summertime square, this romantic trio of rooms with sky-high ceilings in Palazzo Guadagni (1505) is remarkable. The frescoed Gold Room is the first to go and the Green Room with two connecting double rooms is the family favourite. Breakfast is pricey, so it’s best to hit the local cafes instead.

Out of Town

BUDGET

Ostello Villa Camerata (Map; 055 60 14 51; firenzeaighostels@com; Viale Augusto Righi 2-4; dm €20, d/tr/q with bathroom €65/75/88; ) In a converted 17th-century villa surrounded by extensive grounds, and a 30-minute bus ride from town, this HI-affiliated hostel is among Italy’s most beautiful. Bus 17 from Stazione di Santa Maria Novella stops 400m from the hostel. Non-HI members pay an extra €3 per night and there’s lockout between 10am and 2pm.

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EATING

Quality ingredients and simple execution are the hallmarks of Florentine cuisine. The best-known local dish is the juicy bistecca alla fiorentina, a slab of prime T-bone steak rubbed with olive oil, seared on the char grill, garnished with salt and pepper and served al sangue (bloody). Other dishes that you will regularly see on menus include crostini (toasts topped with chicken-liver pâté), ribollita (a thick vegetable, bread and bean soup), pappa al pomodoro (soup made with bread and tomatoes) and trippa alla fiorentina (tripe cooked in a rich tomato sauce).

Duomo & Piazza della Signoria

BUDGET

Oil Shoppe (Map; 055 200 10 92; www.oleum.it; Via Sant’Egidio 22r) Stand in line at this student favourite, an olive-oil shop and sandwich shop that builds huge and tasty sandwiches. Choose your fillings or let chef Alberto Scorzon take the lead with a 10-filling wonder. Queue at the back of the shop for hot subs; at the front for cold.

‘Ino ( 055 21 92 08; Via dei Georgofili 3r-7r; panini €5-8; 11am-8pm Mon-Sat, noon-5pm Sun) Short for panino, this stylish sandwich shop near the Uffizi sources its artisan gourmet ingredients locally and uses them in inventive and delicious ways. You can choose your own combination or select from the always-delectable house specials. Scoff on the spot with a glass of wine (included in the price of the sandwich) or take away to picnic on the banks of the Arno.

FLORENCE’S FAVOURITE FAST FOOD: TRIPE

When Florentines fancy a fast munch on the move rather than a slow full lunch, they flit by a trippaio – a cart on wheels or mobile stand – for a juicy plate or sandwich of tripe. Think cow’s stomach chopped up, boiled, sliced and served with seasoning. Yum! Or is it…yuk?

A bastion of good old-fashioned Florentine tradition, trippai are few and far between these days. Two old faithfuls still going strong are found on the southwest corner of the Mercato Nuovo (Map) and near Via Dante Alighieri close to Piazza della Signoria (Map). Pay under €3 for tripe doused in salsa verde (a pea-green sauce of smashed parsley, garlic, capers and anchovies) or garnished with salt, pepper and ground chilli. Alternatively, opt for a bowl of lampredotto (cow’s fourth stomach chopped and simmered for hours).

Cantinetta dei Verrazzano (Map; 055 26 85 90; Via dei Tavolini 18-20; platters €4.50-12, focaccia €3-3.50, panini €1.70-3.90; noon-9pm Mon-Sat) Together, a forno (baker’s oven) and cantinetta (small cellar) equal a match made in heaven. Come here for focaccia fresh from the oven, perhaps topped with caramelised radicchio or porcini mushrooms, washed down with a glass of wine (€2.50 to €8) from the Verrazzano estate in Chianti. Other plates on offer include cheese and meat platters, panini filled with truffle or prosciutto, salads and bruschettas.

I Due Fratellini (Map; 055 239 60 96; www.iduefratellini.com; Via dei Cimatori 38r; panini €2.50; 9am-8pm Mon-Sat, closed Fri & Sat 2nd half Jun & all Aug) A legend since 1875, this hole in the wall whips out panini – sun-dried tomato with goat cheese, wild boar salami, truffled pecorino (sheep’s milk cheese) and rocket etc – freshly filled as you order. Wash your choice down with a shot, glass or beaker of wine – it’s the perfect pavement lunch.

La Canova di Gustavino (Map; 055 239 98 06; Via della Condotta 29r; meals €24; noon-midnight) The rear dining room of this atmospheric enoteca (wine bar) is lined with shelves full of Tuscan wine – the perfect accompaniment to a bowl of soup, pasta dish or hearty main. The emphasis here is on Tuscan classics – ribollita, trippa alla fiorentina, baccalà alla livornese (salted cod in a tomato sauce) – but it’s perfectly fine if you choose to limit yourself to a simple cheese and meat platter or a bruschetta.

Coquinarius (Map; 055 230 21 53; www.coquinarius.com; Via delle Oche 15r; meals €32; noon-10.30pm) Nestled within the shadow of the Duomo, this enoteca is extremely popular with tourists, who respond well to its casually stylish decor and friendly vibe. The menu ranges from salads and crostini (a huge choice of both) to an unusual array of pastas – try the justly famous ravioli with cheese and pear. Bookings essential.

Santa Maria Novella

MIDRANGE

Osteria dei Centopoveri (Map; 055 21 88 46; Via Palazzuolo 31r; meals €32, set menu €28; lunch & dinner) The ‘hostel of the hundred poor people’ is far from being a soup kitchen. Instead, it’s a modern dining option serving creative variations on traditional Tuscan cuisine. Choose from decent pizzas, excellent pasta (the lasagnette of fresh porcini mushrooms is delicious) and a range of daily specials.

Il Latini (Map; 055 21 09 16; www.illatini.com; Via dei Palchetti 6r; meals €42; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) You have two choices at this Florentine favourite: request a menu (as a tourist, you might not be offered one) or put yourself in the hands of the exuberant waiters and feast on a mixed antipasto of melt-in-your-mouth crostini and mixed Tuscan meats followed by a bowl of (indifferent) pasta and a hunk of roasted meat – rabbit, lamb, chicken or veal with white beans (the rabbit is particularly tasty). The wine and water flow and if you’re lucky you might get a complimentary plate of cantuccini (a type of biscuit) and glass of moscato (an Italian dessert wine) with the bill. There are two dinner seatings (7.30pm and 9pm), seating is shared and bookings are mandatory.

L’Osteria di Giovanni (Map; 055 28 48 97; Via del Moro 22; meals €49; lunch & dinner Wed-Mon) Our number-one choice for Florentine dining is – insert drum roll – this wonderfully friendly neighbourhood eatery, where everything is delicious and where the final reckoning will be within most budgets. Many opt to start with the house antipasto (a plate of salami, fresh ricotta and crostini with liver pâté) and lardo (marinated pork fat), move onto a plate of homemade pasta (perhaps with porcini mushrooms and black truffles) and then forge ahead with a milk-fed veal chop with roasted cherry tomatoes or a sensational bistecca alla fiorentina. Make sure you ask about daily specials, particularly desserts.

TOP END

Cantinetta Antinori (Map; 055 29 22 34; Via de’ Tornabuoni 7; meals €60; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri) This enoteca is a 1960s creation of the city’s most famous wine-making dynasty (www.antinori.it). Located in a palazzo dating from 1502, it’s a molto simpatico spot to sample fine wine accompanied by classic Tuscan cuisine. You can pull up a bar stool and enjoy a glass of wine (the Cabernet Sauvignon—dominated Solaia and Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico DOCG Riserva are particularly highly regarded) with a cheese plate, or colonise a table and order from a limited but alluring menu.

San Lorenzo

BUDGET

Nerbone (Map; 055 21 99 49; Mercato Centrale, Piazza del Mercato Centrale; primi/secondi €4/7; 7am-2pm Mon-Sat) This unpretentious market stall has been serving its rustic dishes to queues of shoppers and stallholders since 1872. It’s a great place to try local staples such as trippa alla fiorentina and panini con bollito (a boiled beef bun).

Trattoria Mario (Map; 055 21 85 50; www.trattoriamario.com; Via Rosina 2; meals €22; noon-3.30pm Mon-Sat, closed 3 weeks Aug) Despite being in every guidebook, this jam-packed place retains its soul and allure with locals. A 100% family affair since opening in 1953, its chefs shop at the nearby Mercato Centrale and dish up tasty, dirt-cheap dishes with speed and skill. Get here right on the dot of noon to score a stool (tables are shared) and be aware that credit cards aren’t accepted.

MIDRANGE

Ristorante Le Fonticine (Map; 055 28 21 06; www.lefonticine.com; Via Nazionale 79r; meals €37; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat) Named for the 16th-century fountain by Luca della Robbia that is just to the right of the entrance, this popular eatery features the same checked tablecloths, painting-filled walls, serving trollies and – dare we say it – waiters that have been here since it opened in 1959. The huge menu features excellent homemade pasta and the best crema di mascarpone (mascarpone cream) in town.

San Marco

BUDGET

La Mescita (Map; Via degli Alfani 70r; plates €4-7, panini €1.60-3.50; 10.30am-4pm Mon-Sat, closed Aug) Part enoteca and part fiaschetteria (simple wine bar), this unapologetically old-fashioned place (it opened in 1927) serves up Tuscan specialities such as maccheroni with sausage and insalata di farro (farro salad). Noontime tipplers and all-day drinkers mingle at the old marble-topped bar, where you’ll find tasty panini and crostini to go with the daily pouring of Chianti.

MIDRANGE

Accademia Ristorante (Map; 055 21 73 43; www.ristoranteaccademia.it; Piazza San Marco 7r; meals €32; lunch & dinner) There aren’t too many decent eateries in this area, which is one of the reasons why this family-run restaurant is perennially packed. Factors such as friendly staff, cheerful decor and consistently good food help, too. The set menu of antipasto toscana, a raviolo with porcini mushrooms or truffles, spaghetti in a spicy sauce, and bistecca alla fiorentina with oven-roasted potatoes (€30) is excellent value.

Santa Croce

BUDGET

Il Pizzaiuolo (Map; 055 24 11 71; Via dei Macci 113r; pizzas €5-10, pastas €6.50-12; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat, closed Aug) Nearby Piazza Sant’Ambrogio is a popular drinking spot for young Florentines, who often kick on here to nosh on Neapolitan thick-crust pizzas hot from the wood-fired oven. Simplicity is the rule of thumb, from the name (‘The Pizza Maker’) to the house speciality, pizza Margherita (pizza with tomato, mozzarella and oregano). Bookings are essential for dinner (and even then you’ll probably have to queue).

MIDRANGE

Ristorante del Fagioli (Map; 055 24 42 85; Corso Tintori 47r; meals €25; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri) This Slow Food favourite near the Basilica di Santa Croce is the archetypical Tuscan trattoria. It opened in 1966 and has been serving well-priced bean dishes, soups and roasted meats to throngs of appreciative local workers and residents ever since. Try the oven-roasted pork, any of the soups or the involtini di Gigi (pan-fried beef slices stuffed with cheese, ham and artichokes). No credit cards.

Antico Noè (Map; 055 234 08 38; Volta di San Piero 6r; meals €26; noon-midnight Mon-Sat) Don’t be put off by the dank, rough-and-ready alley in which this legendary place (an old butcher’s shop with white marble-clad walls and wrought-iron meat hooks) is found. The drunks loitering outside are generally harmless and the down-to-earth Tuscan fodder served in the osteria (wine bar serving some food) is a real joy. For a quick bite, choose from the 18 different types of imaginatively stuffed panini (€2.50 to €5) served at the adjoining fiaschetteria. No credit cards.

Caffè Italiano Sud (Map; 055 28 93 68; Via della Vigna Vecchia; meals €30; 7.30-11pm Tue-Sun) Chef Umberto Montano’s ode to southern Italy brings a breath of fresh air into a local food scene that can suffer from being too inward-looking. Loads of homemade pasta – including unusual dishes from his native Puglia – and other typical dishes from the south can be eaten in or taken away. There are also plenty of vegetarian options (unusual in this meat-obsessed region) and pizzas from Osteria del Caffè Italiano’s pizzeria (see below).

Trattoria Cibrèo (Map; Via dei Macci 122r; meals €30; 12.50pm-2.30pm & 6.50-11.15pm Tue-Sat Sep-Jul) Dine here and you’ll instantly understand why a queue gathers outside each evening before it opens. Once in, revel in top-notch Tuscan cuisine and personable service. Arrive before 7pm to snag one of the eight tables, and remember: no advance reservations, no credit cards, no pasta and no coffee.

Ristorante Cibrèo ( 055 234 11 00; Via del Verrocchio 8r; meals €85; 1-2.30pm & 7-midnight Tue-Sat Sep-Jul) Next door to Trattoria Cibrèo, this place serves some of the best cuisine in Florence, with prices to match.

Osteria del Caffè Italiano (Map; 055 28 90 20; www.caffeitaliano.it; Via del’Isola delle Stinche 11-13r; meals €42, 5-course set menu €50; lunch & dinner Tue-Sun) The menu here holds no surprises – it’s full of simple classics such as buffalo mozzarella with parma ham, ravioli stuffed with ricotta and cavalo nero (black cabbage) and succulent skewered meats – and the service on our recent visits has been spectacularly bad, but there’s still something satisfying about dining in this old-fashioned osteria occupying the ground floor of the 14th-century Palazzo Salviati. It’s an excellent spot to try the city’s famous bistecca alla fiorentina (per kg €50).

Next door, the Pizzeria del Caffè Italiano has a simple dining space and offers a limited menu of three types of pizzas – Margherita, Napoli and Marinara.

The Oltrarno

To taste a different side of Florence, cross the river and make a beeline for the streets around busy Piazza Santo Spirito. The neighbouring quarter of San Frediano hides a couple of gems too.

BUDGET

Pop Café (Map; 055 21 38 52; www.popcafe.net; Piazza Santo Spirito 18r; meals €28; 12.30pm-2am Sep-Jul) Florentine students have adopted this pocket-sized space as their own. Grab a seat and tuck into a super-healthy breakfast, vege­tarian buffet lunch (€6 to €8) or Sunday brunch (€8, from 12.30pm to 3pm). There’s an all-vegetarian aperitivo buffet between 7.30pm and 9.30pm.

Trattoria La Casalinga (Map; 055 21 86 24; Via de’ Michelozzi 9r; meals €20; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Family run and much loved by locals, this unpretentious and always busy place is one of the city’s cheapest trattorias. You’ll be relegated behind locals in the queue – it’s a fact of life and not worth protesting – with the eventual reward being hearty peasant dishes such as bollito misto con salsa verde (mixed boiled meats with green sauce).

MIDRANGE

Olio & Convivium (Map; 055 265 81 98; www.conviviumfirenze.it, in Italian; Via di Santo Spirito 4; meals €37; 10am-3pm Mon, 10am-3pm & 5.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat) A key address on any gastronomy agenda: your tastebuds will tingle at the sight of the legs of hams, conserved truffles, wheels of cheese, artisan-made bread and other delect­able delicatessen products sold in its shop. You can order a sandwich to go, or take advantage of the bargain lunchtime menu (cold mixed platter, wine, water and dessert for €15). Come dusk, a more sophisticated menu is on offer.

Ristorante Il Guscio (Map; 055 22 44 21; Via dell’Orto 49; meals €39; lunch & dinner Mon-Fri, dinner Sat) This family-run gem in San Frediano used to be one of the city’s best-kept secrets, but recently the local foodie grapevine has been running hot with raves about the exceptional dishes coming out of its kitchen. Meat and fish are given joint billing, with triumphs such as white bean soup with prawns and fish joining superbly executed mains including guinea fowl breast in balsamic vinegar on the sophisticated menu. The lunchtime deal of a daily plate, wine, water and coffee costs a ludicrously low €12.

TOP FIVE GELATERIE

Florentines take their gelato seriously. There’s a healthy rivalry among the local gelaterie artigianale (makers of handmade gelato), who all strive to create the creamiest, most flavourful and freshest product in the city. Flavours change according to what fruit is in season, and a serve costs around €2/3/4/5 for small/medium/large/maxi. After extensive on-the-ground-research, we have narrowed down our favourites:

Self-Catering

For those looking to self-cater, there are some handy options.

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DRINKING

Cafes

Caffè Cibrèo (Map; 055 234 58 53; Via del Verrochio 5r; 8-1am Tue-Sat Sep-Jul) This is the perfect spot for a mid-morning coffee and sugar-dusted ciambella (doughnut ring) after shopping at the Mercato di Sant’Ambrogio. The light lunches here (served from 1pm to 2.30pm) are also deservedly popular.

Caffè Giacosa (Map; 055 21 16 56; Via della Spada 10r) Owned by Florentine fashion designer Roberto Cavalli, whose flagship store is located next door, this super-stylish cafe offers good coffee, panini and pastries. Be prepared to have your outfit scrutinised by the elegant clientele.

Chiaroscuro (Map; 055 21 42 47; www.chiaroscuro.it; Via del Corso 36r; 7.30am-9.30pm) A casual cafe offering excellent coffee and a bustling international vibe.

La Terrazza (Map; Piazza della Repubblica 1; 10am-9pm Mon-Sat, 10.30am-8pm Sun) For a bird’s-eye view of the Duomo and Piazza della Repubblica, visit the rooftop cafe of central department store Rinascente.

Robiglio (Map; 055 21 45 01; www.robiglio.it; Via de’ Servi 112r; 7.30am-7.30pm Mon-Sat, closed 3 weeks Aug) Conveniently located near the Galleria dell’Accademia and Piazza della SS Annunziata, Robiglio is known for its old-fashioned ele­gance and delicious pastries and cakes.

Bars

Like most Italian cities, Florence has wholeheartedly embraced the aperitivo trend over the past decade. Many of the bars listed here offer a snack buffet or plate with the price of a drink between 7pm and 9pm.

TOP FIVE HISTORIC CAFES

Piazza della Signoria and Piazza della Repubblica are the traditional homes of the city’s cafe culture. A key fact to remember: it is substantially cheaper to drink standing up at the bar in these cafes; sit down and prices will be three to four times more expensive (the only exception is Procacci, where everyone orders at the bar and there are only a few tables).

Casa del Vino (Map; 055 21 56 09; www.casadelvino.it; Via dell’Ariento 16r; 9.30am-4pm Mon-Sat, closed Aug) This enoteca close to the San Lorenzo Market pours a good range of wines by the glass and offers plenty of rustic panini and crostini to accompany your drinks. You’ll have to stand or squeeze onto a bench.

Colle Bereto (Map; 055 28 31 56; Piazza Strozzi 5r; 8am-midnight Mon-Sat summer, to 9pm winter) Dark oversized shades are vital at this hip bar, where fashionistas strike poses on a sleek, wood-decked terrace. Inside, pea-green neon and transparent Kartell chairs scream design. It’s owned by a wine estate in Chianti, so vino is the tipple of choice.

JJ Cathedral Pub (Map; 055 265 68 92; www.jjcathedral.com; Piazza San Giovanni 4r; 10am-2.30am; ) JJ’s is a magnet for foreign students on vacation, who come here to swill beer and admire the views of the Duomo. Try to snaffle the upstairs balcony table.

La Dolce Vita (Map; 055 28 45 95; www.dolcevitaflorence.com; Piazza del Carmine 6r; 5pm-2am Tue-Sun, closed 2 weeks Aug) Live Brazilian beats or jazz set the mood during aperitivo on Wednesdays and Thursdays on the outdoor terrace of this popular bar. Inside, there’s a more intimate feel, with a changing exhibition program and designer decor.

Le Volpe e L’uva (Map; 055 239 81 32; Piazza dei Rossi 1; 11am-9pm Mon-Sat) Florence’s best enoteca – bar none. Just over the Ponte Vecchio, this intimate bar has an impressive list of wines by the glass and serves a delectable array of accompanying antipasti, including juicy prosciutto di Parma, lardo-topped crostini and boutique Tuscan cheeses. There’s a tiny outdoor terrace and a small number of bar stools.

Moyo (Map; 055 247 97 38; www.moyo.it; Via de’ Benci 23r; 6pm-2am; ) A drinking establishment held in great esteem by the city’s party-mad student crowd, Moyo also serves American-style breakfasts and light lunches. Come aperitivo time, the outdoor seating here is often packed. Wi-fi access is free.

Negroni (Map; 055 24 36 47; www.negronibar.com; Via dei Renai 17r; 8-2am Mon-Sat, 6.30pm-2am Sun) Negroni shakes up a mean cocktail, including its namesake, made with gin, sweet vermouth and Campari and claimed as the bar’s own invention. The ‘ethnic l’aperimundo’ (aperitivo buffet featuring foods from different cuisines) pulls in locals galore.

Plasma (Map; 055 051 69 26; www.virtualplasma.it; Piazza Ferrucci 1r; 7pm-2am Wed-Sun) A hip set sips cocktails on Level 0, and gets lost in video art projected on eight 42in plasma screens on Level 1 at this minimalist fiber­optic-lit drinking space. DJs spin till late. Well worth the trek along the Lungarno.

Mayday Club (Map; 055 238 12 90; www.maydayclub.it; Via Dante Alighieri 16r; 8pm-2am Mon-Sat, closed Aug) Not just a bar, this alternative space markets itself as ‘a laboratory and meeting place where it is possible to communicate and interact with open-minded people from other realities and backgrounds’ – we’re not sure whether they’re all from the same planet. It hosts art exhibitions, serves good cocktails and has an eclectic decor.

Rex Caffè (Map; 055 248 03 31; Via Fiesolana 23r; 6pm-2.30am Sep-May) Gaudy decor, funky music and expertly concocted cocktails make this American-style bar a long-standing favourite.

Sei Divino (Map; 055 21 77 91; Borgo Ognissanti 42r; 8am-2am; ) This bar is known for many things – its great wine, mood music, DJs, video projections, wi-fi, no-fuss lunch deal and aperitivo spread. Most of the action is on the pavement.

Slowly Café (Map; 055 264 53 54; www.slowlycafe.com; Via Porta Rossa 63r; 9pm-3am Mon-Sat, closed Aug) Sleek and sometimes snooty, this bar is known for its fruit-garnished cocktails, glam interior and Florentine Lotharios. Music is dominated by Ibiza-style lounge tracks.

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ENTERTAINMENT

Newsstands sell Firenze Spettacolo (€1.80; www.firenzespettacolo.it, in Italian), the city’s definitive entertainment publication, which is published monthly. Otherwise, a clutch of freebies, including The Florentine (www.theflorentine.net), Informacittà Toscana 24ore and Florence Tuscany News (www.informacittafirenze.it), list what’s on. The city listings in the local edition of La Repubblica are also useful.

Tickets for cultural events are sold through Box Office (Map; www.boxol.it, in Italian; Via Luigi Alamanni 39; 10am-7.30pm Tue-Fri, 3.30-7.30pm Mon) and Ticket One (www.ticketone.it, in Italian).

Live Music

Most venues for live music are outside the town centre and are closed in July and/or August.

Loonees (Map; 333 1335330; www.loonees.it; Via Porta Rossa 15; admission free; 9pm-3am Mon-Sat, closed Aug) A popular venue for the city’s international students, this subterranean club hosts live tribute bands and spins reggae, blues and rock tracks.

Caruso Jazz Café (Map; 055 267 02 07; www.carusojazzcafe.com; Via Lambertesca 14-16r; 9.30am-3.30pm & 6pm-midnight Mon-Sat) Thursday and Friday nights see jazz musicians take the stage at this popular bar.

Jazz Club (Map; 055 247 97 00; www.jazzclubfirenze.com; Via Nuovo de’ Caccini 3; membership €8.50; 9pm-2am Mon-Fri, to 3am Sat, closed Jul & Aug) Live jazz bands play from Tuesday to Saturday; on Mondays there’s a free-for-all jam session.

A STANDING OVATION…

…is what this stunning dining space and stage created by famous Florentine chef Fabio Picchi and his equally famous comic actress wife, Maria Cassi, gets. Extraordinary value for money and with fabulous entertainment, Teatro del Sale (Map; 055 200 14 92; www.teatrodelsale.com; Via dei Macci 111r; breakfast/lunch/dinner €7/20/30; 9-11am, 12.30-2.15pm & 7-11pm Tue-Sat Sep-Jul), in an old Florentine theatre, steals the show. Join the club (annual membership fee €5) and make yourself at home in a leather armchair between bookshelves in the cosy wood-panelled library or in a director’s chair around fold-up tables in the airy theatre space. Help yourself to water and wine, help yourself to antipasti, then wait for the chef to yell out what’s cooking through the glass hatch and queue for a primo and secondo. Dolce (sweets) and coffee are also laid out buffet-style. Lunch is a laid-back affair, while dinner is followed by a performance (advance reservations required) at 9.30pm: clear away your table, line up your chair and sit back for an evening of drama, music or comedy.

Tenax (off Map; 055 30 81 60; www.tenax.org; Via Pratese 46; admission varies; 10pm-4am Tue-Sun Oct-Apr) Northwest of town, this is the city’s biggest venue for live bands and doubles as a house disco club; check online for details. Take bus 29 or 30 from Stazione di Santa Maria Novella.

Nightclubs

Florence’s tame dance scene grinds to a halt in summer (June to September) when most clubs – bar Central Park and Meccanò Club, which have outdoor dance floors – relocate to the Versilian coast. Admission is often more expensive for males than females and is sometimes free if you arrive early (between 9.30pm and 11pm).

Central Park (Map; 380 344 49 56; Via Fosso Macinante 1; admission varies; 11pm-4am Wed-Sat) Flit between five different dance floors in city park Parco delle Cascine, where everything from Latin to pop, house to drum and bass plays – many a top Ibiza DJ has spun tunes here. From May the dance floor moves outside beneath the stars.

Disco Club YAB (Map; 055 215160; www.yab.it, in Italian; Via de’ Sassetti 5r; admission free Mon, Tue & Thu, €15 incl 1 drink Fri & Sat; 9pm-4am, closed Jun-Sep) It’s been around since the 1970s, but You Are Beautiful remains a hit with locals and visiting students alike. Smoove on Monday is the hottest hip-hop/R&B night in town; Saturdays are always packed.

Meccanò Club (Map; 380 3444956; Viale degli Olmi 10; admission varies; 11pm-5am Tue-Sat) Flo’s other big-crowd disco, also in the city park, touts three dance spaces spinning house, funk and standard commercial music to a mainstream youthful set.

Tabasco Disco Gay (Map; 055 21 30 00; www.tabascogay.it, in Italian; Piazza Santa Cecilia 3; 10.30pm-late Tue-Sun) The city’s most popular gay club welcomes both sexes and is still going strong after nearly four decades.

Cinemas

Few cinemas screen subtitled films (versione originale). The centrally located Odeon Cinehall (Map; 055 29 50 51; www.cinehall.it; Piazza Strozzi 2) is the notable exception.

Theatre, Classical Music & Dance

The month of July sees the Festival Firenze Classica, when Florence’s highly regarded Orchestra da Camera Toscana (www.orcafi.it) performs classical music in the atmospheric settings of the Oratorio di San Michele a Castello and Palazzo Strozzi; between April and October, the orchestra performs in the Chiesa di Orsanmichele and in the courtyard of the Museo del Bargello.

Teatro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino (Map; information & credit-card bookings 055 27 793 50, bookings 055 28 72 22; www.maggiofiorentino.com; Corso Italia 16) The curtain rises on opera, classical concerts and ballet at this lovely theatre, host to the Maggio Musicale Fiorentina (www.maggiofiorentino.com), an international concert festival held between late April and June.

Teatro Verdi (Map; 055 21 23 20; www.teatroverdifirenze.it; Via Ghibellina 99) Hosts drama, opera, concerts and dance.

Teatro della Pergola (Map; 055 2 26 41; www.teatrodellapergola.com, in Italian; Via della Pergola 18) Beautiful city theatre with stunning entrance that hosts classical concerts organised by the Amici della Musica ( 055 60 74 40; www.amicimusica.fi.it, in Italian), October to April.

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SHOPPING

Tacky mass-produced souvenirs are everywhere, but serious shoppers don’t have to look far to identify the top-quality leather goods, jewellery, hand-embroidered linens, designer fashion, natural pharmaceuticals, handmade paper, wine and gourmet foods that Florence is famous for.

For a useful and authoritative guide to the city’s fashion ateliers, go to www.florenceartfashion.com, a website put together by the City of Florence’s Department of Tourism and Fashion. It lists fashion (men’s, women’s and children’s), jewellery, footwear, leatherwear, textiles and perfume ateliers; shows their locations on maps; and advertises occasional free guided tours in its ‘news’ section.

Fashion

Designer fashion boutiques strut their stuff along Via de’ Tornabuoni, Via della Vigna Nuova and Via Strozzi. Via Roma, Via de’ Calzaiuoli, Via Porta Rossa and Via Por Santa Maria also host plenty of shops liable to lure cash and credit cards out of your wallet.

The tourist office has a list of designer outlet stores selling last season’s collections at discounted prices, including The Mall ( 055 865 77 75; www.themall.it; Via Europa 8, Leccio; 10am-7pm), 35km from Florence; and the Barberino Designer Outlet ( 055 84 21 61; www.barberino.mcarthurglen.it; A1 Florence-Bologna; 10am-8pm Tue-Fri, to 9pm Sat & Sun, 2-8pm Mon Jan, Jun-Sep & Dec), 40km north of the city in Barberino di Mugello.

Buses to The Mall (€3.10, four daily on weekdays, two daily on weekends) leave from the SITA bus station; check the timetable for details of return services (12.45pm and 7.05pm daily plus 4pm Monday to Saturday at the time of research). To get to Barberino, take an outlet shuttle bus (return €12) leaving from Fortezza da Basso and Piazza Stazione in Florence at 10am daily and returning at 1.30pm.

Markets

Piazza Santo Spirito hosts an antique/flea market from 8am to 6pm on the second Sunday of each month; and a food, wine and locally produced gift market on the third Sunday of the month.

Specialist Shops

Via de’ Gondi and Borgo de’ Greci, east of Piazza della Signoria, seethe with leather shops selling jackets, trousers, shoes and bags, as do the street markets (above). Otherwise, try Scuola del Cuoio, adjoining the Basilica di Santa Croce (Map).

For paper products, go to Pineider (Map; 055 28 46 55; www.pineirder.com; Piazza della Signoria 13-14r) or Alberto Cozzi (Map; 055 29 49 68; Via del Parione 35r; Mon-Fri).

For jewellery, head to Alessandro Dari (Map; 055 24 47 47; www.alessandrodari.com; Via San Niccolò 115r) and for natural pharmaceuticals and perfumes go to Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella or Officina de’ Tornabuoni (Map; 055 21 10 06; www.officinadetornabuoni.com; Via de’ Tornabuoni 19, Mon afternoon-Sun).

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GETTING THERE & AWAY

Air

Amerigo Vespucci Airport (FLR; 055 306 13 00; www.aeroporto.firenze.it), 5km northwest of the city centre, caters for domestic and a handful of European flights. The much larger Pisa International Airport Galileo Galilei ( 050 84 93 00; www.pisa-airport.com) is one of northern Italy’s main international and domestic airports. It is closer to Pisa, but is well linked with Florence by public transport (Click here).

Bus

From the SITA bus station (Map; 800 3737 60; www.sitabus.it, in Italian; Via Santa Caterina da Siena 17r; information office 8.30am-12.30pm & 3-6pm Mon-Fri, to 12.30pm Sat), just west of Piazza della Stazione, there are corse rapide (express services) to/from Siena (€6.80, 1¼ hours, at least hourly between 6.10am and 9.15pm). To get to San Gimignano (€6) you need to go to Poggibonsi (50 minutes, at least hourly between 6.10am and 7.50pm) and catch a connecting service (30 minutes, at least hourly between 6.05am and 8.35pm). Direct buses also serve Castellina in Chianti, Greve in Chianti and other smaller cities throughout Tuscany.

Vaibus (Map; 055 21 51 55; www.vaibus.it, in Italian; Piazza della Stazione) and its partner buslines runs buses to/from Pistoia (€3, 50 minutes, four daily), Lucca (€5.10, 1½ hours, frequent) and Pisa (€6.10, two hours, hourly).

Car & Motorcycle

Florence is connected by the A1 northwards to Bologna and Milan, and southwards to Rome and Naples. The Autostrada del Mare (A11) links Florence with Prato, Lucca, Pisa and the coast, but locals use the FI-PI-LI – a superstrada (expressway, no tolls); look for blue signs saying FI-PI-LI (as in Firenze—Pisa—Livorno). Another dual carriageway, the S2, links Florence with Siena.

Train

Florence’s central train station is Stazione di Santa Maria Novella (Map; Piazza della Stazione). The information counter ( 7am-7pm) faces the tracks in the main foyer, as does Consorzio ITA (signposted Informazioni Turistiche Alberghiere), which sells tickets for shuttle buses to/from Pisa airport and for guided tours.

Florence is on the Rome—Milan line. There are regular trains to/from Rome (€16 to €40, 1¾ to 3¾ hours), Bologna (€5.40 to €24.70, one hour to 1¾ hours), Milan (€22.50 to €44.70, 2¼ to 3½ hours) and Venice (€19 to €53.20, 2¾ to 4½ hours).

Frequent regional trains run to Pistoia (€3, 50 minutes to one hour, four daily), Pisa (€5.60 to €11.40, one to 1½ hours, frequent) and Lucca (€5, 1½ to 1¾ hours, half-hourly).

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GETTING AROUND

To/From the Airport

A Volainbus shuttle (one-way/return €5/8, 25min) travels between Amerigo Vespucci Airport and Florence’s Santa Maria Novella train station/SITA bus station every 30 minutes between 6am and 11.30pm.

Terravision (Map; www.terravision.eu) runs services (adult single/return €10/16, child €5/9, 70 minutes, up to 13 daily) between the bus stop outside Florence’s Stazione di Santa Maria Novella (Via Alamanni) and Pisa International Airport Galileo Galilei. In Florence get tickets at the Consorzio ITA in the train station and at the Terravision desk (Map; Via Alamanni 9r; 6am-7pm) inside Deanna Bar opposite the Terravision bus stop; at Pisa airport, the Terravision ticket desk is in the arrival hall.

Regular trains link Florence’s Stazione di Santa Maria Novella with Pisa International Airport Galileo Galilei (€5.60, 1½ hours, at least hourly from 4.30am to 10.25pm).

A taxi between Amerigo Vespucci Airport and central Florence costs a flat rate of €20, plus surcharges of €2 on Sundays and holidays, €3.30 between 10pm and 6am and €1 per bag. As you exit the terminal building, turn right and you will come to the taxi rank.

Bicycle

Bike-tour operator Florence by Bike (Map; 055 48 89 92; www.florencebybike; Via San Zanobi 120r; 9am-7.30pm) rents wheels (city bike €14.50 per day, scooter €68 per day), as does the open-air rental outlet Biciclette a Noleggio (Map; Piazza della Stazione; per hr/day €1.50/8; 7.30am-7pm Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm Sun May-Sep, reduced hr Oct-Apr), in front of Stazione di Santa Maria Novella.

Car & Motorcycle

Most traffic is banned from the historic centre. See the boxed text below for details.

There is free street parking around Piazzale Michelangelo (park within blue lines; white lines are for residents only). Pricey (€18 per day) underground parking can be found in the area around the Fortezza da Basso (Map) and in the Oltrarno beneath Piazzale di Porta Romana (Map). Otherwise, many hotels can arrange parking for guests.

Car-rental agencies include the following:

Public Transport

ATAF (Azienda Trasporti Area Fiorentina; Map; 800 42 4500; www.ataf.net, in Italian) buses and electric bussini (minibuses) serve the city and its periphery. Most – including bus 7 to Fiesole and bus 13 to Piazzale Michelangelo – start/terminate at the ATAF bus stops opposite the southeastern exit of Stazione di Santa Maria Novella.

Tickets cost €1.20 (€2 on board) and are sold at the ATAF ticket & information office (Map; Piazza Adua; 7.30am-7.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1.30pm Sat), next to the bus stops outside the train station. A carnet of 10/21 tickets costs €10/20, a biglietto multiplo (four-journey ticket) is €4.50 and a one-/three-day pass is €5/12. Passengers caught travelling without a time-stamped ticket (punch it on board) are fined €40.

Taxi

For a taxi call 055 42 42 or 055 43 90.

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AROUND FLORENCE

FIESOLE

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This bijou village perched in hills 9km northeast of Florence is the city’s traditional get­away. Its cooler air, olive groves, scattering of Renaissance-styled villas and spectacular views of the plain below have seduced for centuries (victims include Boccaccio, Marcel Proust, Gertrude Stein and Frank Lloyd Wright) – and still do.

WARNING

There is a closely monitored Limited Traffic Zone (Zona Traffico Limitato; ZTL) in Florence’s historic centre between 7.30am and 7.30pm Monday to Friday and 7.30am to 6pm Saturday for all nonresidents. The exclusion also applies on Friday, Saturday and Sunday between midnight and 4am mid-May to the end of October.

If you transgress, a fine of around €150 will be sent to you (or the car-hire company you have used). Many travellers have written to us to complain about credit-card charges from car-hire companies being levied months after their unknowing infraction of the ZTL occurred, often with administrative costs of up to €100 added to the fine. For a map of the ZTL, go to www.comune.fi.it/opencms/export/sites/retecivica/materiali/turismo/ztlnov.JPG.

The tourist office ( 055 597 83 73; www.comune.fiesole.fi.it, in Italian; Via Portigiani 3; 9.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10am-1pm & 2-6pm Sat & Sun Mar-Oct, 9.30am-6pm Mon-Sat, 10am-4pm Sun Nov-Feb) is just off the main square, a couple of doors down from the archaeological site. It can supply maps and information about walks in the area.

Sights & Activities

Make the Area Archeologica ( 055 5 94 77; www.fiesolemusei.it; Via Portigiani 1; adult/child under 6yr/concession €12/free/8; 10am-7pm Wed-Mon Apr-Sep, to 6pm Wed-Mon Oct & Mar, to 4pm Thu-Mon Nov-Feb) your first stop. A pretty spot to stroll, the archaeological area ensnares an Etruscan temple (Fiesole was founded in the 7th century BC by the Etruscans), Roman baths, an archaeological museum with exhibits from the Bronze Age to the Roman period, and a 1st-century-BC Roman theatre where live music and theatre is performed during the Estate Fiesolana (held June to August) and Vivere Jazz Festival (www.viverejazz.it; mid-July).

Your ticket to the Area Archeologica also gives admission to the tiny Museo Bandini ( 055 5 94 77; Via Dupré; 9.30am-7pm Apr-Sep, 9.30am-6pm Oct & Mar, 10am-5pm Wed-Mon Nov-Dec, 11am-5pm Thu-Mon Jan & Feb) next door. The collection of early Tuscan Renaissance works inside includes fine medallions by Giovanni della Robbia (c 1505–20) and Taddeo Gaddi’s luminous Annunciation (1340–45).

From the museum, a 300m walk along Via Dupré will bring you to the Museo Primo Conti ( 055 59 70 95; www.fondazioneprimoconti.org; Via Dupré 18; admission €3; 9.30am-1.30pm Mon-Sat), where the eponymous avant-garde 20th-century artist lived and worked. The views from the garden here are lovely, and there are more than 60 of his paintings inside. Ring to enter.

Backtrack to Piazza Mino di Fiesole, presided over by the Cattedrale di San Romolo (Piazza della Cattedrale 1; 7.30am-noon & 3-5pm), and make your way up steep Via San Francesco. Your reward will be staggeringly beautiful views of Florence from a terrace next to the 15th-century Basilica di Sant’Alessandro, which hosts temporary exhibitions and has irregular opening hours. Further up the hill, you can also visit the 14th-century Chiesa di San Francesco ( 9am-noon & 3-6pm).

Sleeping & Eating

Campeggio Panoramico ( 055 59 90 69; www.florencecamping.com; Via Peramonda 1; camping per person €9-10 plus €12-15 site cost; ) Larger and cooler than the camp sites in Florence and with panoramic views of the city. It offers laundry and kitchen facilities, and its mini-mart, cafe and restaurant operate between April and October.

Villa Aurora ( 055 5 93 63; www.villaurora.net; Piazza Mino da Fiesole 39; s €135-185, d €120-245; ) Built right on the main square in 1860, Villa Aurora offers relatively bland standard rooms and far more impressive deluxe rooms featuring original frescoes – one has a spectacular panoramic view of Florence from its private balcony. The same view is enjoyed from the pagoda-covered terrace, where guests dine in style during the summer months.

Ristorante La Reggia degli Etruschi ( 055 5 93 85; www.lareggia.org; Via San Francesco; meals €37; 11am-3pm & 6-11pm) The cuisine – which features dishes such as homemade tagliatelle with guinea-hen sauce or risotto with porcini mushrooms and local pecorino – plays second fiddle to a stunning view at this terrace restaurant tucked up high in an old stone wall. If you don’t feel like a large meal, platters of cheese or salami (€10 to €12) are available. On weekends, bookings are essential.

Trattoria Le Cave di Maiano ( 055 5 91 33; www.trattoriacavedimaiano.it; Via Cave di Maiano 16, Maiano; meals €36; lunch & dinner, closed Mon winter) Florentines adore this terrace restaurant in Maiano, a neighbouring village five minutes from Fiesole by car, and flock here every fine weekend to enjoy leisurely lunches on the outdoor terrace. The food here is memorable – huge servings are the rule of thumb and everything is home-made, with pastas and vegetable dishes being particularly impressive. A taxi from Fiesole costs approximately €9 and the trip back will be double that (the meter starts ticking when the taxi leaves its base in Fiesole to collect you).

Getting There & Away

Take ATAF bus 7 (€1.20, 30 minutes) from Florence. If you want to be sure of a seat, it’s best to get on the bus at Piazza dell’Unità Italiana, one stop east of Stazione di Santa Maria Novella. The bus travels via the station and Piazza San Marco, winds its way up the hilly and winding road to Fiesole and terminates at Piazza Mino da Fiesole. If you’re driving, Fiesole is signed from Florence’s Piazza della Libertà, north of the cathedral.

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NORTHERN & WESTERN TUSCANY

Travel through this part of Tuscany, and you will be left with a true understanding of what the term ‘slow travel’ really means. Lingering over lunches of rustic regional specialities swiftly becomes the norm, as do activities such as meandering through medi­eval hill-top villages, taking leisurely bike rides along a coastal wine trail with spectacular scenery or trekking an island where Napoleon was once exiled. Even the larger towns here – including the university hub of Pisa and ‘love at first sight’ Lucca – have an air of tranquillity and tradition about them that positively begs the traveller to stay for a few days of cultural R&R.

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PISTOIA

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Pleasant Pistoia sits snugly at the foot of the Apennines. As little as 45 minutes northwest of Florence by train, it deserves more attention than it normally gets. Although it has grown well beyond its medieval ramparts, its historic centre is well preserved and extremely pedestrian-friendly.

On Wednesday and Saturday mornings, the main square Piazza del Duomo and its surrounding streets become a sea of blue awnings and jostling shoppers as Pistoia hosts a lively market. The town’s produce market ( Mon-Sat) occupies Piazza della Sala, west of the cathedral.

On 25 July each year, a medieval equestrian and jousting festival known as Giostra dell’Orso (Joust of the Bear) fills Piazza del Duomo in honour of Pistoia’s patron saint, San Giacomo.

The helpful tourist office ( 0573 2 16 22; www.pistoia.turismo.toscana.it, in Italian; cnr Piazza del Duomo & Via della Torre; 9am-1pm & 3-6pm) supplies maps, brochures and advice.

Sights

Pistoia’s visual wealth is concentrated on Piazza del Duomo – and is reason alone to visit this humble city. The Pisan-Romanesque facade of Cattedrale di San Zeno ( 0573 2 50 95; Piazza del Duomo; 8.30am-12.30pm & 3.30-7pm) boasts a lunette of Madonna col Bambino Fra Due Angeli (Madonna and Child Between Two Angels) by Andrea della Robbia. The cathedral’s other highlight – the silver Dossale di San Giacomo (Altarpiece of St James; adult/child €4/2), begun in 1287 and finished off by Brunelleschi two centuries later – is in the gloomy Cappella di San Jacopo off the north aisle.

Next to the cathedral is the Museo Rospigliosi e Museo Diocesano (adult/concession €4/2; guided tours 10am, 11.30am & 3pm Mon, Wed & Fri), guardian of a wealth of artefacts that were discovered during restoration work of this former bishop’s palace. Many treasures from the cathedral’s collection are also on show here, including a 15th-century reliquary by Lorenzo Ghiberti supposedly housing a bone of St James and parts of his mother’s and the Virgin’s pelvic bones. Visits are strictly by guided tour (1¼ hours).

Across Via Roma is the 14th-century octagonal baptistry (Piazza del Duomo; admission free; uncertain, check with tourist office), elegantly banded in green-and-white marble to a design by Andrea Pisano. An ornate square marble font and soaring dome enliven the otherwise bare, red-brick interior.

The Gothic Palazzo Comunale on the eastern flank of the square is home to the Museo Civico ( 0573 37 12 96; www.commune.pistoia.it/museocivico, in Italian; Piazza del Duomo 1; adult/concession €3.50/2; 10am-5pm or 6pm Tue & Thu-Sat, 3-6pm or 7pm Wed, 11am-5pm or 6pm Sun), with works by Tuscan artists from the 13th to 20th centuries. Don’t miss Bernardino di Antonio Detti’s Madonna della Pergola (1498), with its extraordinarily modern treatment of St James, the Madonna and Baby Jesus; look for the mosquito on Jesus’ arm.

The portico of the nearby Ospedale del Ceppo (Piazza Giovanni XXIII), with its detailed 16th-century polychrome terracotta frieze by Giovanni della Robbia, will stop even the most monument-weary in their tracks. It depicts the Sette Opere di Misericordia (Seven Works of Mercy), while the five medallions represent the Virtù Teologali (Theological Virtues), including a beautiful Annunciation.

MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR EURO

When in Pistoia, consider purchasing a cumulative ticket (€6.50), which gives entrance to the Museo Civico, the Museo Rospigliosi e Museo Diocesano and the Centro Documentazione e Fondazione Marino Marini. You can purchase it at the tourist office or any of these museums.

The 12th-century Chiesa di San Andrea ( 0573 2 19 12; Via San Andrea; 8.30am-12.30pm & 3-6pm) was built outside the original city walls, which explains its windowless state (it needed to be fortified). The facade is enlivened by a relief of the Journey and Adoration of the Magi (1166) and inside there is a magnificent marble pulpit carved by Giovanni Pisano between 1298–1301.

A short distance and a half-millennium away is the Centro Documentazione e Fondazione Marino Marini ( 0573 3 02 85; www.fondazionemarinomarini.it; Corso Silvano Fedi; adult/concession €3.50/2; 10am-5pm Mon-Sat), a museum-gallery devoted to Pistoia’s most famous modern son, the eponymous sculptor and painter (1901–80).

Sleeping & Eating

If you’re looking for a place to eat or drink, Via del Lastrone is the street to prowl.

Residenza d’Epoca Puccini ( 0573 2 67 07; www.puccini.tv; Vicolo Malconsiglio 4; s/d/tr €80/120/140; ) Ten spacious rooms with stylish modern fittings are on offer at this recently renovated hotel, occupying an old palazzo close to the Duomo. Some have original frescoes and all come with mod cons such as satellite TV.

Tenuta di Pieve a Celle ( 0573 91 30 87; www.tenutadipieveacelle.it; Via di Pieve a Celle 158; r €110-130; ) You’ll find this peaceful 1850s country house in the hills 3km outside Pistoia. Set in expansive gardens, it offers five pretty bedrooms and elegant common areas. There’s a lovely swimming pool and host Fiorenza will cook meals on request using produce from the estate’s organic vegetable gardens.

Pasticceria Armando ( 0573 2 31 28; Via Curtatone Montanara 38; 6.30am-1pm & 3-8.30pm Tue-Fri, to 8pm Sat & Sun) Pistoia’s best cafe-bar has been plying appreciative locals with delicious cakes, cocktails and coffees since 1947.

Trattoria dell’Abbondanza ( 0573 36 80 37; Via dell’Abbondanza 10; meals €22; lunch & dinner Fri-Tue, dinner Thu) Ask a local where they eat and the answer will often be this unassuming place behind the Duomo. The simple Tuscan dishes on its menu are extremely well priced and absolutely delicious. Choose between indoor or outdoor tables.

Osteria La BotteGaia ( 0573 36 56 02; www.labottegaia.it; Via del Lastrone 17; meals €27; lunch & dinner Tue-Sat, dinner Sun & Mon) Dishes range from the staunchly traditional to experimental at this Slow Food—hailed osteria, known for its finely butchered cured meats and interesting wine list.

Getting There & Around

Trains link Pistoia with Florence (€3, 50 minutes, four daily), Lucca (€3.50, 45 minutes to one hour, half-hourly) and Pisa (€4.50 to €6.50, 1¾ hours, one daily or change at Lucca).

BluBus/Vaibus ( 800 570530, www.blubus.it) services connect Pistoia with Florence (€3, four daily) and local towns in Tuscany; buy tickets at the ticket office ( 0573 36 32 43; Via XX Settembre 71; 6.15am-8.15pm Mon-Sat, 7am-8.10pm Sun) opposite the train station.

Local buses 1 and 10 (€1) connect the train station with the cathedral, but it’s easier to walk (15 minutes).

The city is on the A11 and the SS64 and SS66, which head northeast for Bologna and northwest for Parma, respectively.

Most hotels provide motoring guests with a pass ensuring free street parking in the centre; otherwise there is free parking in the Cellini car park on the city’s eastern edge and cheap parking (€1 per day) at the Pertini car park near the train station.

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LUCCA

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This beautiful old city elicits love at first sight with its rich history, handsome churches and excellent restaurants. Hidden behind imposing Renaissance walls, it is an essential stopover on any Tuscan tour and a perfect base for exploring the Apuane Alps and the Garfagnana.

Founded by the Etruscans, Lucca became a Roman colony in 180 BC and a free comune (self-governing city) during the 12th century, when it enjoyed a period of prosperity based on the silk trade. In 1314 it briefly fell under the control of Pisa but under the leadership of local adventurer Castruccio Castracani degli Antelminelli, the city regained its freedom and remained an independent republic for almost 500 years.

Napoleon ended all this in 1805, when he created the principality of Lucca and placed his sister Elisa in control. Twelve years later the city became a Bourbon duchy, before being incorporated into the Kingdom of Italy. It miraculously escaped being bombed during WWII, so the fabric of the historic centre has remained unchanged for centuries.

FATTORIA DI CELLE

A tea house, aviary and other romantic 19th-century follies mingle with cutting-edge art installations created in situ by the world’s top contemporary artists at the Fattoria di Celle ( 0573 47 94 86, 0573 47 99 07; www.goricoll.it, in Italian; Via Montalese 7, Santomato di Pistoia; by appointment only Mon-Fri May-Sep), 5km from Pistoia. The extraordinary private collection and passion of local businessman Giuliano Gori, this unique sculpture park showcases 70 site-specific installations sprinkled around his vast family estate. Visits – reserved for serious art lovers – require forward planning (apply in writing at least five weeks in advance) and entail a three- to four-hour hike around the art-rich estate, led by the collection’s curator, Miranda McPhail.

Information

Sights

Lucca’s biggest attraction is its 12m-high city walls, built snug around the old city in the 16th and 17th centuries, defended by 126 canons and crowned with a wide, silky-smooth footpath just made for a leafy Passeggiata della Mura. Be it strolling, cycling, running or rollerblading, this legendary 4km-long circular footpath above the city proffers shot after shot of local Lucchesi life.

CATHEDRAL

Lucca’s mainly Romanesque Cattedrale di San Martino ( 0583 95 70 68; www.museocattedralelucca.it, in Italian; Piazza San Martino; 9.30am-5.45pm Mon-Fri, to 6.45pm Sat, to 10.45am & noon-6pm Sun mid-Mar—Oct, to 4.45pm Mon-Fri, to 6.45pm Sat, to 10.45am & noon-5pm Sun Nov—mid-Mar), dedicated to San Martino, dates to the 11th century. The exquisite facade was constructed in the prevailing Lucca-Pisan style and designed to accommodate the pre-existing campanile. Each of the multitude of columns in its upper part is different. The reliefs over the left doorway of the portico are believed to be by Nicola Pisano.

The interior was rebuilt in the 14th and 15th centuries with a Gothic flourish. Lucca-born sculptor and architect Matteo Civitali designed both the pulpit and the 15th-century tempietto (small temple) in the north aisle that contains the Volto Santo. Legend has it that this simply fashioned image of a life-sized Christ on a wooden crucifix was carved by Nicodemus, who witnessed the Crucifixion. In fact, it has recently been dated to the 13th century. A major object of pilgrimage, it’s carried in procession through the streets every 13 September at dusk during the Luminaria di Santa Croce, a solemn torch-lit procession marking its miraculous arrival in Lucca.

The cathedral’s many other artworks include a magnificent Last Supper by Tintoretto above the third altar of the south aisle; and the marble tomb of Ilaria del Carretto, a masterpiece of funerary sculpture, in the sacristy (adult/concession €2/1.50). Many more 15th- and 16th-century treasures from the cathedral are displayed in the adjacent Museo della Cattedrale (Cathedral Museum; 0583 49 05 30; Piazza Antelminelli; adult/concession €4/2.50; 10am-6pm mid-Mar—Oct, to 2pm Mon-Fri, to 5pm Sat & Sun Nov—mid-Mar).

CHURCH & BAPTISTRY OF STSGIOVANNI & REPARATA

The 12th-century interior of the deconsecrated Chiesa e Battistero dei SS Giovanni e Reparata is a hauntingly atmospheric setting for early evening opera recitals staged by Puccini e la sua Lucca ( 340 8106042; www.puccinielasualucca.com; adult/concession €15/10), which are held at 7pm every evening from mid-March to October, and on every evening except Thursday from November to mid-March. Professional singers present a one-hour programme of arias and duets dominated by the music of Puccini. Tickets are available from the church between 10am and 6pm.

In the north transept of the church is a baptistry ( 0583 49 05 30; Piazza San Giovanni; adult/concession €2.50/1.50; 10am-6pm mid-Mar—Oct, to 5pm Sat, Sun & religious holidays Nov—mid-Mar) crowning an archaeological area comprising five building levels going back to the Roman period.

CHIESA DI SAN MICHELE IN FORO

This dazzling Romanesque church ( 0583 4 84 59; Piazza San Michele; 7.40am-noon & 3-6pm Apr-Oct, 9am-noon & 3-5pm Nov-Mar) was built on the site of its 8th-century precursor over a period of nearly 300 years, beginning in the 11th century. The exquisite wedding-cake facade is topped by a figure of the Archangel Michael slaying a dragon. Inside, don’t miss Filippino Lippi’s 1479 painting of Sts Helen, Jerome, Sebastian and Roch (complete with plague sore) in the south transept.

EAST OF VIA FILLUNGO

Lucca’s busiest street, Via Fillungo, threads its way through the medieval heart of the old city and is full of sleek modern boutiques housed in buildings of great charm and antiquity – make sure you regularly cast your eyes above the street-level bustle to appreciate ancient awnings and architectural details. Piazza Anfiteatro is a huge oval just east of Via Fillungo. The houses, raised upon the foundations of the one-time Roman amphitheatre, retain the shape of this distant original.

MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR EURO

Those choosing to visit the cathedral’s sacristy, the Cathedral Museum and the baptistry of the nearby SS Giovanni e Reparata can save money by purchasing a combined ticket (adult/child €6/4) at any of the venues.

A short walk further east is Piazza San Francesco and the attractive 13th-century Chiesa di San Francesco. Nearby, the Museo Nazionale di Villa Guinigi ( 0583 49 60 33; Via della Quarquonia; adult/concession €4/2; 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun) showcases the city’s art collection and archaeological remnants from Roman Lucca.

WEST OF VIA FILLUNGO

The facade of the Basilica di San Frediano ( 0583 49 36 27; Piazza San Frediano; 8.30am-noon & 3-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9-11.30am & 3-5pm Sat & Sun) has a unique (and much-restored) 13th-century mosaic in a markedly Byzantine style. The main feature of the beautiful basilica’s interior is the Fontana Lustrale, a 12th-century baptismal font decorated with sculpted reliefs, just to the right as you enter. Note, too, the fine capitals, many recycled from the nearby Roman amphitheatre.

The privately owned Palazzo Pfanner ( 0583 95 40 29; Via degli Asili 33; palace or garden adult/concession €3/2.50, both €4.50/3.50; 10am-6pm Apr-Oct) is a 17th-century palace where parts of Portrait of a Lady (1996) with Nicole Kidman and John Malkovich were shot. Take the outdoor staircase to the frescoed and furnished piano nobile (main reception room), and then visit the ornate 18th-century garden, the only one of substance within the city walls. (Felix Pfanner, may God rest his soul, was an Austrian émigré who first brought beer to Italy – and brewed it in the mansion’s cellars.)

The 17th-century Palazzo Mansi (Via Galli Tassi 43), a wonderful piece of rococo excess (that elaborate, gilded bridal suite must have inspired such high jinks in its time), houses the smallish Pinacoteca Nazionale ( 0583 5 55 70; adult/concession €4/2; 8.30am-7.30pm Tue-Sat, to 1.30pm Sun) with paintings of the same period and some lively frescoes.

Festivals & Events

The city that gave birth to both Puccini and Boccherini has admirably catholic musical tastes. For more than 50 years the nearby village of Torre del Lago has hosted the annual Puccini Festival (www.puccinifestival.it) in July and August. Meanwhile, Lucca’s Summer Festival (www.summer-festival.com) in July pulls in top international performers in a variety of musical genres.

Sleeping

To track down a B&B in or around Lucca, surf Lucca: B&B ‘n’ Guesthouses (www.welcomeinlucca.it). For luxurious options at the top end of the budget spectrum, check out www.villelucchesi.net.

BUDGET

Ostello San Frediano ( 0583 46 99 57; www.ostellolucca.it; Via della Cavallerizza 12; dm with/without bathroom €20/18, d/tr/q with bathroom €55/75/100; ) Flags flutter outside as if you’re entering a five-star hotel at this staggeringly historic, atmospheric and magnificent…hostel. Top-notch in comfort and service, this HI-affiliated hostel with 141 beds in voluminous rooms is serviced with a bar and grandiose dining room (breakfast/lunch/two-course dinner €3/11/11). Non HI-members can buy a €3 one-night stamp.

Affittacamere Stella ( 0583 31 10 22;; www.affittacamerestella.com; Via Pisana Traversa 2; s €45-55, d €60-70; ) Just outside the Porta Sant’Anna, this well-regarded guesthouse in an early 20th-century apartment building offers comfortable and attractive rooms with wooden ceilings, a kitchen for guests’ use and private parking. No breakfast.

B&B Ai Cipressi ( 0583 49 65 71; www.aicipressi.it; Via di Tiglio 126; s €55-79, d €69-99; ) Outside Porta Elisa opposite the Sanctuary of Santa Gemma Galgani, this recently opened motel-style B&B is perfect for travellers with their own cars, as it offers free on-site parking. The modern rooms are clean, comfortable and well set up, with good beds and satellite TV.

San Frediano Guest House ( 0583 46 96 30; www.sanfrediano.com; Via degli Angeli 19; s with shared bathroom €38-65, d with shared bathroom €48-80, s with bathroom €50-90, d with bathroom €65-110; ) This comfortable townhouse dates from the 17th century and is located just off Via Fillungo in the centre of Lucchese action. It has meat hooks in the beams of reception, where butchers once strung their hams. Less expensive rooms share a bathroom. If full, ask about its sister guesthouse.

MIDRANGE

La Bohème ( 0583 46 24 04; www.boheme.it; Via del Moro 2; d €90-140; ) A hefty dark-wood door located on a peaceful back street marks the entrance to this five-room B&B, run with charm and style by former architect Ranieri. Rooms are furnished in antique Tuscan style; some have breathtaking high ceilings and all have decent-sized bathrooms. Breakfast is generous.

Villa Principessa ( 0583 37 00 37; www.hotelprincipessa.com; Via Nuova per Pisa 1616; d €99-129, ste €320-450; ) You will indeed feel like a principessa (princess) at this aristocratic country mansion, residence of Lucca duke Castruccio Castracani in the late 13th and early 14th century. Smothered with an abundance of foliage outside and full of fine chandeliers, period furnishings and rich wallpapers inside, it really is a stunner. Find it 3km south of Lucca.

La Corte degli Angeli ( 0583 46 92 04; www.allacortedegliangeli.com; Via degli Angeli 23; d €139-180; ) Occupying three floors of a 15th-century townhouse, this four-star boutique hotel oozes charm. Its frescoed rooms are named after flowers.

Eating & Drinking

BUDGET

Forno Giusti (Via Santa Lucia 20; pizza & filled focaccia per kg €7-16; 7am-1pm & 4-7.30pm, closed Wed afternoon & Sun) Join the crowd queuing in front of this excellent bakery to purchase fresh-from-the-oven pizza and focaccia with a var­iety of fillings and toppings. It’s the perfect place to buy picnic provisions.

Caffè Di Simo ( 0583 49 62 34; Via Fillungo 58; 9am-8pm & 8.30pm-1am) This atmospheric Art Nouveau cafe-bar-restaurant was once patronised by Puccini and his coterie (the maestro would tickle the ivories of the piano at the entrance to the dining area). These days, locals stand at the bar for coffee or aperitivo and sit at the tables to enjoy their selection from the daily €10 lunch buffet.

Taddeucci ( 0583 49 49 33; www.taddeucci.com; Piazza San Michele 34; 8.30am-7.45pm, closed Thu winter) This pasticceria (pastry shop) is where the traditional Lucchesi treat of buccellato was created in 1881. A ring-shaped loaf made with flour, sultanas, aniseed seeds and sugar, it’s the perfect accompaniment to a mid-morning or -afternoon espresso (coffee and slice of buccellato, €3.50).

Trattoria da Leo ( 0583 49 22 36; Via Tegrimi 1; meals €17; Mon-Sat) Ask a local to recommend a lunch spot, and they will inevitably nominate this bustling trattoria. The clientele of tourists, students, workers and ladies taking a break from shopping have one thing in common: an appreciation for the cheap food and friendly ambience on offer. The food ranges from acceptable to delicious, with stand-out dishes including the vitello tonnato (cold veal with a tuna and caper sauce) and torta di fichi e noci (fig and walnut tart). No credit cards.

La Corte dei Vini ( 0583 58 44 60; Corte Campana 6; meals €24, platters €7-12; lunch & dinner Mon-Sat) Strategically placed between Piazza Napoleone and Piazza San Michele, this friendly ‘enoteca e picola cucina’ (wine bar and small kitchen) is a great choice for an aperitivo or casual meal. It specialises in rustic dishes, including tortelli Lucchesi (meat ravioli) and minestra di farro della Garbagnana (soup made with spelt). Get here early to score a choice table on the front terrace.

MIDRANGE

Osteria Baralla ( 0583 44 02 40; www.osteriabaralla.it; Via Anfiteatro 5; meals €34; Mon-Sat) Dine beneath magnificent red-brick vaults at this busy ost­eria, inevitably packed to the rafters by noon. Rich in tradition (the place dates to 1860) and local specialities, its menu highlights include soup with new-season olive oil, salt cod and chickpeas, bollito misto on Thursday and roast pork on Saturday.

Buca di Sant’Antonio ( 0583 5 58 81; www.bucadisantantonio.com; Via della Cervia 3; meals €40; Tue-Sat, lunch Sun) This atmosphere-laden restaurant dates to 1782 and is an outstanding spot for tasting top-notch Italian wines. Its flattering lighting and banquette seating make it a favourite destination for romantic dinners, and its standards of service are unmatched in the city. Bookings essential.

Ristorante Olivo ( 0583 49 62 64; www.ristoranteolivo.it/inglese; Piazza San Quirico 1; meals €47; lunch & dinner daily Apr-Nov, Thu-Tue Dec-Mar) Known for its fresh fish, which is brought in every day from Viareggio, the Olivo epitomises old-fashioned Lucchesi dining. The wine list is excellent (with Tuscan drops dominating) and the menu balances classic Tuscan choices with seafood specialities.

Getting There & Away

From the bus stops around Piazzale Verdi, Vaibus runs services throughout the region, including destinations in the Garfagnana such as Castelnuovo di Garfagnana (€4, 1½ hours, eight daily). It also runs buses to/from Florence (€5.10, 1½ hours, frequent), Pisa and Pisa Airport (€2.80, one hour, 30 daily) and Viareggio (€3.20, 50 minutes, five daily) via Torre del Lago (€2.80, 30 minutes, six daily).

The train station is south of the city walls, but only a short walk away – take the path across the moat and through the tunnel under Baluardo San Colombano. Regional train services connect Lucca with surrounding cities and towns. Destinations include Florence (€5, 1½ to 1¾ hours, frequent), Pisa (€2.40, 30 minutes, every 30 minutes) and Viareggio (€2.40, 25 minutes, hourly).

The A11 runs westwards to Pisa and Viareggio and eastwards to Florence. To access the Garfagnana, take the SS12 and continue on the SS445.

Getting Around

Most car parks within the city walls are for residents only, and are indicated by yellow lines. Blue lines indicate pay parks (€1 to €1.50 per hour) that are available to all motorists, but these are few and far between. If you are staying within the city walls, contact your hotel ahead of your arrival and enquire about the possibility of getting a temporary resident permit during your stay. The parks just outside the city walls have a time limit of one to two hours and are closely monitored. The easiest option is to park at Parcheggio Carducci, just outside Porta Sant’Anna.

Bike rental is offered by two shops – Cicli Bizzarri and Biciclette Bianchi – located on either side of the tourist information office on Piazza Santa Maria. These are both open from 9am to 7pm daily and charge €2.50 per hour.

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