Romanesco

with Citrus-Infused Salsa Verde and Toasted Flaked Almonds

Romanesco is a wonderful and sadly underused vegetable that encapsulates many of the principles of neurogastronomy discussed in the book. It’s visually striking in both colour and its unusual fractal form, and it has a wonderful texture and a gentle nutty taste. Adding the freshly made and uplifting citrus-infused salsa verde simply completes the picture by contributing a delicious aroma and greater layers of flavour.

Romanesco is not all that commonly found in UK markets and grocers, so you’ll need to keep an eye out for it, although you won’t struggle to recognise it when you do see it. Buy it as fresh and unblemished as you can and use it quickly. The little chartreuse florets damage and discolour easily if abused, but in its best form it’s a stunning addition to the table.

 

2 tsp quality salted capers, rinsed and roughly chopped

2 cloves garlic, crushed and finely chopped

handful of fresh coriander leaves, chopped

6 or 7 fresh mint leaves, chopped

6 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 tbsp sweet pickled gherkins, finely chopped

grated zest of ½ lemon

juice of ½ lime

1 tbsp orange wine vinegar (or 2 tsp red wine vinegar)

a few twists of freshly ground black pepper

1 very fresh Romanesco brassica

handful of toasted flaked almonds

* First make the citrus-infused salsa verde.

Combine all the ingredients other than the romanesco in a pestle and mortar and crush together to form the salsa. You want a fairly rough-textured finish that will deliver little spikes of flavour throughout the dish. Taste for seasoning and adjust accordingly with freshly ground black pepper and sea salt to balance. The salsa needs to be slightly viscous, but loose enough to pour over and coat the romanesco well. Set aside to rest for 30–60 minutes to allow the flavours to marry well.

Trim all the leaves and stem from under the romanesco and break it carefully into its natural florets, keeping each individual floret as intact as possible.

Cook the florets in lightly salted boiling water for 10–12 minutes until just tender but retaining a reasonable bite. Drain and immediately arrange in the middle of a serving dish. Spoon over the salsa verde and turn everything over gently to coat well. If you want to be fussy, then adjust as many florets as you can to face upwards to maximise the visual effect of the colour and shape of the romanesco. Serve immediately scattered with toasted flaked almonds.

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