SNACKS & STARTERS
In this chapter, I’d really be letting my hair down, if I had any! I love thinking up great starters and small dishes, because they are an opportunity to set out your stall, to let people know they’re in for a good time. You can be quite adventurous and experiment with techniques, flavours and textures. And you can have a bit of fun too, which is why I’ve included some of my favourite snacks such as the cheesy tostadas and corn dogs – you can’t take life too seriously when you’re eating a corn dog!
Sometimes you really want to perk up your tastebuds, whether it’s at the beginning of a meal or with a quick snack, and this is when I ramp up the chillies. I love to add a bit of fire when I can, so to a tasty grilled cheese and ham sandwich I add chopped pickled green chillies. They lend heat and acidity, in the same way as a smear of English mustard or some good chutney might. And you can’t beat buffalo chicken wings for a lively, mouth-tingling blast of heat… But there’s room for more subtle dishes too, such as blue cheese tart, matzo ball soup or knish – those cosy little potato buns that are so great either on their own or with a good bowl of soup.
And, of course, you can tweak most of the dishes here a bit and turn them into fantastic main courses. It could be as simple as making a salad of bitter leaves to go with the blue cheese tart or ladling an extra scoop of the matzo ball soup into the bowl. Or with the borscht, you might want to spoon on some shredded duck and a glistening spoonful of avruga caviar to give it the full-on glam treatment. Who wouldn’t love that?
CRISPY CHEESY TOSTADAS
I love these Mexican-inspired snacks. They have the perfect balance of texture, spice and savoury flavour. Stack them up like a pile of poppadoms, stick them in the middle of the table and let everyone get stuck in. This is a great recipe for a late-night crowd, as you can easily double or even triple it up.
MAKES 8
500g minced pork
8 ripe plum tomatoes
2 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsp coriander seeds
½ tsp smoked paprika
½ tsp cracked black pepper
3 green chillies, diced (seeds and all)
4 pickled green chillies, sliced
8 flour tortillas
250g strong Cheddar cheese, grated
Salt
Heat a large, non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Add the minced pork and dry-fry for about 20–25 minutes, stirring frequently, until the mince is nicely browned – it should have a crisp and crunchy texture. Drain the mince in a colander to remove any excess fat. Wipe out the pan with kitchen paper.
While the mince is cooking, prepare the tomatoes. Have a bowl of iced water ready and bring a saucepan of water to the boil. Immerse the tomatoes in the boiling water for 10–15 seconds then immediately plunge into the iced water to stop them cooking. Peel, quarter, deseed and dice the tomatoes; set aside.
Preheat the oven to 160°C/Fan 140°C/Gas 3.
Return the frying pan to a medium heat. Add the cumin and coriander seeds and toast for a couple of minutes, rattling the pan, until they’re fragrant – be careful not to burn them. Remove from the pan and cool slightly. Using an electric spice grinder or pestle and mortar, grind the seeds to a fine powder.
Return the ground spices to the pan, along with the smoked paprika and black pepper, and heat gently for 1 minute. Stir in the mince and chopped fresh chillies. Heat for a further couple of minutes, then season well with salt. Stir in the pickled chillies and diced tomatoes and cook very gently, stirring from time to time, for about 10 minutes until the sauce is thickened.
Meanwhile, lay the tortillas on 2 or 3 baking sheets and bake for 8–10 minutes until lightly browned. Remove from the oven and whack the oven temperature up to 220°C/Fan 200°C/Gas 7.
Spread the pork mixture evenly over the tortillas and scatter the grated cheese on top. Return to the oven for 5 minutes until the cheese is melted and bubbling and the tortillas are crisp. Stack them on a large plate and serve.
Cheese, Ham & Pickled Chilli Toastie >
CHEESE, HAM & PICKLED CHILLI TOASTIE
This is my super-deluxe version of cheese on toast. I use pickled green chillies, but gherkins, capers or even pickled onions would work too – they give a lovely, sharp acidity to the sandwich. The Parmesan crisp is an added delicious bonus, but it’s not essential – simply omit it for a quick toastie.
MAKES 1
30g butter, softened
2 slices of sandwich bread
100g cheese (ideally Comté, Gruyère or Emmental, but a strong Cheddar is good too), sliced
1 thick slice of good smoked ham
1 tbsp chopped pickled green chillies
For the Parmesan crisp
15–20g Parmesan cheese, freshly grated
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4.
Heat a large, non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Spread the butter on one side of the bread slices.
Place one bread slice, butter side down, in the pan. Now assemble the sandwich directly in the pan. Lay half of the cheese slices on top of the bread, followed by the ham. Scatter on the chopped chillies and place the remaining sliced cheese on top. Cover with the other bread slice, butter side up, and press gently to squeeze everything together.
Cook the sandwich for a few minutes until the bottom is lovely and golden brown. Carefully flip over and cook the other side for a further few minutes until browned and the cheese is oozing and melted, about 3 minutes each side should do it.
Transfer the toasted sandwich to a baking tray and place in the oven for 5 minutes to ensure the cheese melts completely.
Meanwhile, for the Parmesan crisp, wipe the pan clean with kitchen paper and place over a medium-low heat. Sprinkle the Parmesan in an even layer in the centre of the pan. Cook gently for 3–4 minutes until the Parmesan has melted and is nicely golden brown and crisp.
Quickly remove the Parmesan crisp from the pan and, while it’s still warm, pop it inside or on top of the grilled cheese sandwich. Serve straight away.
BEEF FLANK JERKY
This jerky makes a great, meaty, tasty snack – it’s packed full of savoury umami flavour and is incredibly moreish. It’s particularly good with a cold glass of beer. Jerky is normally air-dried, but I bake these steak strips and then store them in an airtight container in the fridge, where they’ll keep quite well for a couple of weeks. You can halve the amount of beef used here if you like, but keep the marinade quantities the same.
MAKES ABOUT 650g
1kg beef flank steak, in one piece
100ml dark soy sauce
3 garlic cloves, finely grated
3 tsp cracked black pepper
1 tsp ground allspice
½ tsp salt
2 tsp smoked paprika
Place the beef, well wrapped, in the freezer for 30 minutes or so – this makes it a lot easier to slice.
Using a sharp knife, slice the steak lengthways, as thinly as you can, going with the grain of the meat. Set aside.
In a large bowl, mix together the soy sauce, garlic, pepper, allspice and salt. Add the beef to the bowl and toss together to coat the strips evenly in the mixture. Cover the bowl with cling film and place in the fridge. Leave to marinate for at least 3 hours or longer if you can, preferably overnight.
Remove the beef from the fridge around 30 minutes before you are going to cook it, to let it come to room temperature.
Preheat the oven to 120°C/Fan 100°C/Gas ½.
Sit a wire cooling rack over the top of a baking tray or roasting tin. Remove the beef strips from the marinade and arrange on the wire rack – you may need to use 2 trays and wire racks, depending on their size.
Sprinkle the smoked paprika evenly over the beef. Bake for 3–4 hours, until it’s crispy, dark brown, dry and brittle. Once cooked, remove from the oven and allow the jerky to cool before serving.
Serve as a snack, or store in an airtight container in the fridge until ready to eat.
KNISH
These great little potato buns have been a popular East European street food for centuries and they are loved all around the world. Mine are filled with potato and matzo meal, so they’re quite carb heavy, but they go so well with soups or vegetable stews, or you can just eat them on their own as a snack. Once you’ve mastered the method, you can customise the filling and make them your own with minced meats, sauerkraut, cheese, herbs, almost whatever takes your fancy.
MAKES 7
For the potato filling
300g floury potatoes, such as Maris Piper or King Edward, peeled and cut into 4cm dice
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 large onion, finely diced
2 garlic cloves, finely grated
3 tbsp matzo meal or dry breadcrumbs
2 tsp caster sugar
1 egg, beaten
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the dough
200g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
1 tsp baking powder
½ tsp salt
2 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for greasing
1 egg
3 tbsp cold water
For the eggwash
2 egg yolks, mixed with a splash of milk
To make the potato filling, bring a medium saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the diced potatoes and cook for around 10–12 minutes until tender. Drain in a colander and leave for a few minutes to allow the potatoes to steam and dry out.
Meanwhile, heat a frying pan over a medium heat and add the oil. When it is hot, add the onion and garlic and sweat for around 10–12 minutes until soft and deep golden – you want the onion to be quite caramelised.
Transfer the onion and garlic to a large bowl, add the potatoes and mash together well until smooth. Stir in the matzo meal, sugar and beaten egg. Season generously with salt and pepper and mix well to combine. Cover with cling film and place in the fridge to chill.
To make the dough, put the flour, baking powder, salt, oil, egg and water in a freestanding electric mixer fitted with the dough hook (or into a food processor), and mix to a soft, pliable dough. Wrap the dough in cling film and chill in the fridge for an hour.
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Lightly grease a large baking tray.
Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll the dough out as thinly as possible on a floured surface to a 30cm square.
Spoon the potato filling into the centre of the dough and spread it out evenly, leaving a 2–3cm clear margin. Brush the edges of the dough with egg wash, then roll up tightly like a Swiss roll. Press the ends together with your fingers to seal.
Divide the roll of filled dough into 7 portions, by pressing down with the side of your hand at 6 evenly spaced intervals. Using a knife, cut where you’ve pressed down, to separate the buns.
Gently press and pinch the open edges together to seal the buns, shaping them gently with your hands.
Place the buns flat side down on the prepared baking tray and brush each one generously with egg wash. Bake for 40–50 minutes, until golden brown and crisp.
Serve the knish warm, on their own as a snack, or floating in bowls of soup or stew.
RUNZAS
I think of runzas as a far-flung cousin of our much-loved Cornish pasties. They originated in nineteenth-century Russia then travelled to Germany and the Americas. Fitting conveniently into a pocket, runzas were often taken to the fields by farmers to savour as a working lunch. With a minced beef and cabbage filling, encased in a yeasted dough, they have a slight ‘chew’ to them, which I really like.
MAKES 12
For the dough
650g strong white bread flour, plus extra for dusting
60g caster sugar
1 tsp salt
1 tsp fast-action dried yeast
320ml warm milk
75g butter, melted and cooled slightly
2 eggs
A little vegetable oil, for oiling the bowl
For the beef filling
600g minced beef
3 tbsp vegetable oil
2 onions, finely chopped
½ spring cabbage (about 250g), finely shredded
4 tbsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp Bovril
2 tbsp caraway seeds
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the glaze
50g butter, melted and cooled
To make the dough, put the flour, sugar, salt and yeast into a freestanding electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment and mix to combine. In a small bowl, whisk together the warm milk, melted butter and eggs. Pour this liquid into the mixer and mix to form a dough. Knead in the mixer for 8–10 minutes, on a medium setting, until soft, smooth and elastic.
Transfer the dough to a clean, lightly oiled bowl and cover with a damp tea towel. Leave to rise in a warm place for 30–40 minutes until it is soft and slightly aerated.
Lift the risen dough out of the bowl and place on a lightly floured surface. Knock it back, then knead with your hands for 5–10 minutes. Return to the bowl, cover and leave to prove for 30–40 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the filling. Heat a large, non-stick frying pan over a medium heat. Add the minced beef and dry-fry for about 20–25 minutes, stirring frequently, until it is nicely browned – it should have a crisp and crunchy texture.
Drain the crispy beef in a colander to remove any excess fat, then tip into a large bowl; set aside.
Heat 2 tbsp of the oil in the frying pan. Add the onions and cook over a medium-low heat for around 10 minutes until softened. Transfer the onions to the bowl with the beef.
Crank up the heat under the pan and add the remaining 1 tbsp oil. Tip the shredded cabbage into the pan and wilt quickly for a few minutes, stirring frequently. Add the cabbage to the beef and onions, then stir in the mustard, Bovril and caraway seeds. Season generously with salt and pepper.
After proving, knock back the dough on a lightly floured surface and divide into 12 equal-sized pieces, shaping them into balls with your hands. Using a lightly floured rolling pin, roll each ball out thinly to a 14cm circle.
Divide the beef filling between the rounds of dough, spooning about 3 tbsp filling into the centre of each round. Brush the edges lightly with melted butter and fold over to make semicircles, as if you’re making pasties. Carefully press the edges together, then crimp with a fork to seal.
Lay the runzas on 2 baking trays lined with baking parchment. Brush them with the remaining melted butter and leave to prove for a final 20 minutes. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 210°C/Fan 190°C/Gas 7.
Bake the runzas for 15–20 minutes until they are golden brown and crisp. Serve immediately.
BLUE CHEESE TART
This lovely tart makes a great lunch with a crisp green salad. I love using some ground toasted hazelnuts in the pastry, as the flavour goes beautifully with the blue cheese and gives an extra dimension to the finished dish. To make the cheese easier to grate, try putting it in the freezer for 15 minutes first.
SERVES 6–8
For the pastry
30g shelled hazelnuts
170g plain flour, plus extra for dusting
1 tsp salt
120g butter, chilled and diced
1 egg yolk
3–4 tbsp iced water
For the filling
300ml double cream
6 egg yolks
2 tbsp thyme leaves
300g blue cheese (use your favourite), grated
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Scatter the nuts on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for 10–12 minutes, until the skins are blistered. Wrap in a clean tea towel and let steam for a few minutes, then rub in the cloth to remove the skins (as much as you can). Cool and grind with a pestle and mortar or pulse to a powder in a food processor; don’t over-process.
To make the pastry, put the flour, ground nuts and salt into a food processor. Add the butter and pulse briefly until the mixture resembles coarse breadcrumbs. Add the egg yolk and blend briefly, adding the cold water a little at a time and mixing only until you achieve a soft, smooth dough. Wrap in cling film and rest in the fridge for at least 1 hour.
Heat the oven to 170°C/Fan 150°C/Gas 3½. Roll out the pastry on a lightly floured surface to the thickness of a £1 coin and large enough to line a 20cm loose-bottomed tart tin. Line the tin with the pastry, gently pressing it against the edge of the tin and letting any excess fall over the sides. Line the pastry case with baking parchment and fill with dried or ceramic baking beans. Stand on a baking sheet. Bake for 15–20 minutes.
Take out the paper and beans and bake for a further 10–15 minutes, until the pastry case is golden brown, cooked through and crisp. Let cool on the baking sheet, then carefully trim away any excess pastry from the edges, using a small serrated knife. Reduce the oven temperature to 160°C/Fan 140°C/Gas 3.
For the filling, in a large bowl, whisk together the cream, egg yolks, thyme and some salt and pepper. Stir in the blue cheese. Pour the mixture into the tart case, still on the baking sheet. Bake for 35–40 minutes, until the filling is light golden and set. Remove from the oven and let cool in the tin for 20 minutes.
Carefully remove the tart from the tin and cut into wedges.
CORN DOGS
This recipe takes hot dogs to another level! I love these guys dipped in barbecue sauce or smothered in sweet mustard. You can also remove the skewers and stick the hot dogs in a bun with some homemade tomato ketchup. Best snack ever. You’ll need 8–10 wooden skewers, pre-soaked in cold water for 30 minutes and dried.
SERVES 8–10
For the batter
130g plain flour
90g fine cornmeal
1 tbsp caster sugar
2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp salt
30g lard, chilled and finely diced
175ml whole milk
1 egg
For the dogs
Vegetable oil, for deep-frying
8–10 frankfurters (the best quality you can find)
Flour, for dusting
Flaky sea salt, to finish
To make the batter, mix together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, baking powder, cayenne pepper, salt and lard in a large bowl until combined. In a separate bowl, beat the milk and egg together and gradually whisk this mixture into the dry ingredients until you have a smooth, loose batter.
Heat about a 15cm depth of oil in a deep-fat fryer to 180°C. Or use a large, deep pan, making sure it is no more than a third full, as the oil will bubble up ferociously when you add the corn dogs. Use a frying thermometer to check the temperature, if you have one; otherwise drop a cube of dry white bread into the hot oil to test it – if the bread turns golden brown in just under a minute, the oil is up to temperature. Keep a close eye on it and never leave the pan unattended, even for a minute.
While the oil is heating up, drain the frankfurters and pat dry with kitchen paper. Thread a wooden skewer lengthways into (but not right through) each one, then dust with flour, shaking off any excess.
You will need to fry the corn dogs in batches. Don’t overcrowd the pan, and let the oil come back up to temperature between batches. Dip the dogs into the batter, turning to coat evenly, and use tongs to gently lower them into the hot oil. Deep-fry for 3–4 minutes until golden brown, turning them throughout cooking, to ensure they colour evenly and the batter gets crisp.
Carefully remove the corn dogs from the oil using tongs or a slotted spoon and drain on a tray lined with kitchen paper. Keep hot while frying the remaining dogs.
Scatter the corn dogs with a sprinkling of sea salt and serve them immediately.
Hot or cold, these are such a great snack, and they work brilliantly as a starter or as part of a big barbecue platter too. Don’t be put off by the long list of ingredients. If you are missing a couple of the herbs or spices, just leave them out. I like to brine my chicken wings, to achieve a deeper flavour, but you can skip that process if you wish – they’ll still be delicious.
SERVES 4–6
1.5kg chicken wings
Vegetable oil, for oiling the tray(s)
For the brine
1 litre water
200g flaky sea salt
190g demerara sugar
1 tbsp black peppercorns
2 cloves
1 bay leaf
1 thyme sprig
For the rub
2½ tsp smoked paprika
2 tsp salt
1 tsp soft dark brown sugar
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
½ tsp ground coriander
½ tsp garlic powder
½ tsp cayenne pepper
½ tsp dried oregano
½ tsp dried thyme
For the glaze
75g butter
75g cider vinegar
75ml Tabasco sauce
For the blue cheese dressing
250g strong blue cheese
200ml soured cream
100g mayonnaise
A splash of milk
A pinch of cayenne pepper
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
To serve
1 green chilli, sliced
6–8 celery sticks (strings removed with a vegetable peeler), cut into batons
A selection of pickles, ideally including pickled green chillies and pickled carrots
To make the brine, put all of the ingredients into a large saucepan and bring to the boil, stirring to make sure the sugar and salt dissolve completely. Leave the brine to cool to room temperature and then chill in the fridge.
Once the brine is chilled, add the chicken wings. Cover and leave in the fridge for at least 2 hours, preferably longer. If you have time, brine them for 6–8 hours so they take on a stronger, more intense flavour.
Remove the chicken wings from the brine, drain and pat dry using kitchen paper.
Preheat the oven to 160°C/Fan 140°C/Gas 3.
Lightly oil 2 medium or 1 large non-stick baking tray(s).
To make the rub, mix together all the ingredients in a large bowl. Add the chicken wings and toss each one thoroughly in the spices, making sure they are all evenly coated.
Transfer the chicken wings to the baking tray(s), arranging them in a single layer. Bake in the oven for 40–45 minutes, until they’re cooked through.
Turn the oven up to 200°C/Fan 180°C/Gas 6 and bake the chicken wings for a further 10 minutes until they’re golden brown and crisp.
When you turn the oven up, make the glaze. Combine the butter, cider vinegar and Tabasco in a small saucepan. Bring to the boil over a high heat, then lower the heat and cook for 5–10 minutes or until it has thickened into a glossy glaze.
Meanwhile, for the blue cheese dressing, crumble the cheese into a bowl, add the soured cream and mayonnaise and mix together. Loosen with a splash of milk until you reach the desired consistency, then stir in the cayenne pepper. Taste and season with salt and pepper if required.
Remove the chicken wings from the oven and, while they’re still warm, pour over the spicy glaze. Use a spoon to coat and roll them in the glaze evenly. They should be nice and glossy.
Transfer the glazed wings to a serving board or platter and scatter with the sliced green chilli. Serve hot or cold with some crisp celery and pickles alongside.
WALDORF SALAD
This is such a top – yet simple – salad. I love the clean, crisp flavours that kick on through it, from the mild bitterness of the frisée and the peppery watercress, through the sweet apples and grapes, to the salty cheese. Its distinct flavours work very well in hot weather at barbecues, but because they’re quite powerful and nutty, it works equally as well as an autumn or winter salad.
SERVES 4–6
150g shelled walnuts
4 celery sticks
1 Romaine lettuce, thickly sliced
A bunch of watercress, thicker stems removed
A couple of handfuls of frisée (the tender pale leaves from the centre)
100g seedless white grapes, halved
About 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley leaves
2 tbsp raisins
200g strong, salty blue cheese such as Roquefort, crumbled
2 sweet, crisp red apples
For the dressing
2 tbsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
2 tbsp plain yoghurt
100ml olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Preheat the oven to 180°C/Fan 160°C/Gas 4. Scatter the walnuts on a baking sheet and toast in the oven for 6–9 minutes until fragrant; be careful not to let them burn. Transfer to a plate and let cool slightly, then crumble roughly.
Using a vegetable peeler, peel away the strings from the celery, then slice the stalks thinly.
For the dressing, in a bowl, whisk the mustard, wine vinegar and yoghurt together, then gradually whisk in the olive oil until everything is well combined. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
Place the salad leaves in a large mixing bowl. Add the celery, toasted walnuts, grapes, parsley and raisins and toss together. Add the crumbled blue cheese to the bowl.
At the last minute (so they don’t discolour), cut the apples into thin batons and add to the salad. Pour on the dressing and toss until evenly coated. Serve immediately.
CHEDDAR & ALE SOUP
This is a super soup – ideal on its own with some bread for lunch, or as part of a bigger meal. I really like the combination of the rich, hoppy ale and the gentle acidity from the dairy. The chopped apple and malty dressing I use to garnish the soup cuts through the rich flavours and really makes them shine.
SERVES 4
75g butter
1 large onion (about 175g), diced
1 large potato (about 175g), peeled and diced
70g plain flour
500ml chicken stock
500ml brown ale (your choice, but the stronger the better)
100ml double cream
350g strong Cheddar cheese, grated
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the dressing
4 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp malt extract
1 tbsp cider vinegar
To garnish
1 large Bramley apple, peeled, cored and finely diced
2 tbsp chopped chives
Melt the butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat. Add the onion and potato and cook gently, stirring from time to time, until softened (but don’t let them take on any colour), around 10–15 minutes.
Sprinkle the flour evenly over the vegetables in the pan and cook, stirring, for 1–2 minutes, then stir in the chicken stock. Whack up the heat and bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook gently for about 10 minutes until the soup has thickened. Pour in the ale and heat gently for a further few minutes.
Remove from the heat, let cool slightly and then transfer the mixture to a blender or food processor. Add the cream and whiz until nice and smooth.
Pass the soup through a fine sieve into a clean saucepan and season with pepper and a little salt – do not add too much at this stage as the cheese will introduce extra saltiness later.
To make the dressing, whisk together the olive oil, malt extract and cider vinegar in a small bowl until emulsified.
Warm the soup gently over a low heat and stir in the grated Cheddar, allowing it to melt. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary.
Ladle the soup into warmed bowls and trickle a little dressing on top of each one. Sprinkle on the diced apple and chives and serve immediately.
This cosy chicken soup with dumplings and noodles bobbing in it is so comforting. I make the dumplings from blitzed-up matzo crackers, which you can buy in lots of supermarkets and delis now. Like breadcrumbs, they make wonderful dumplings which absorb loads of flavour from the broth. In this recipe, I use a cooked chicken, but you could easily poach skinned raw pieces of chicken in the broth instead – just add them earlier in the cooking process and make sure they are cooked through before serving.
SERVES 4–6
For the matzo balls
150g matzo crackers
1 tsp bicarbonate of soda
1 tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp salt
1 tbsp finely chopped thyme leaves
4 eggs, separated
80ml olive oil, plus a little extra for oiling
40ml water
For the soup
2 tbsp vegetable oil
1 large onion, diced
1 large carrot, diced
1 large parsnip, diced
3 celery sticks (tough strings removed with a vegetable peeler), diced
6 garlic cloves, finely grated
1 chicken (about 1.4kg), roasted and chilled
1.2 litres chicken stock
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp dried sage
100g dried egg noodles
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the matzo balls, grind the crackers to a fine crumb using a food processor, or put them into a plastic bag and bash them with a rolling pin until they are finely crushed.
In a large bowl, stir together the matzo crumbs, bicarbonate of soda, cinnamon, salt and thyme. In a jug, whisk the egg yolks, olive oil and water together, then stir into the dry ingredients.
In a separate, large bowl, whisk the egg whites until they form soft peaks. Gently fold into the matzo mixture, using a spatula, until evenly combined and you have a thick batter. Cover with cling film and leave to rest in the fridge for a couple of hours.
Once chilled, get ready to roll the mixture into balls. Lightly oil your hands with a splash of oil – this will prevent the mixture from sticking and make it easier to shape. Roll the dough into 12 balls, roughly the size of golf balls. Arrange them on a tray or large plate and cover with cling film. Chill in the fridge for at least 30 minutes while you prepare the soup.
To make the chicken soup, heat the oil in a large saucepan over a medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook gently for 4–5 minutes, to soften. Add the carrot, parsnip, celery and garlic and continue to cook over a gentle heat for 10–15 minutes, until softened, stirring from time to time.
Meanwhile, tear the roasted chicken into large chunks and discard the skin.
Pour the chicken stock into the pan, bring to the boil and then lower the heat to a gentle simmer. Throw in the dried thyme and sage and season well with salt and pepper. Cook gently for around 10–15 minutes.
Remove the matzo balls from the fridge and add to the soup. Allow to poach very gently in the broth for 15–20 minutes. Add the noodles and cook for a further 10 minutes.
Finally, add the shredded chicken to the pan. If you’d prefer the soup to be less thick, add a little more chicken stock at this stage too. Carefully stir through the soup and cook gently for a few minutes until the chicken is nicely warmed through.
Ladle the soup into warmed bowls and serve immediately.
BORSCHT
Stunning, with deep, earthy flavours, this soup is quick and easy to make. Its history is rich and complex, with different versions originating from Russia and all over Eastern Europe. I’m giving you my proper dressed up version here, luxuriously garnished with caviar and duck – I confess it’s the cheaper avruga caviar, made from herring roe, but it’s a nice touch. If you want to pare it down a bit, garnish simply with soured cream. I love the soup’s vibrant colour – I just try to remember not to wear white when eating it…
SERVES 6–8
1 white cabbage, cored and finely shredded
500g peeled raw beetroot (prepared weight), grated
50g butter
1 large white onion, halved and thinly sliced
2 tbsp caraway seeds
200ml white wine
1 litre chicken stock
Juice of 1 lemon
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tbsp thyme leaves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
To garnish
Soured cream
Avruga caviar (optional)
Some leftover meat from slow-cooked duck legs (if you have it)
Soft thyme leaves
Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the cabbage and beetroot and blanch for 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the vegetables from the pan and place on a tray or baking sheet lined with kitchen paper or a clean tea towel to drain; reserve the cooking water.
In a separate, large, heavy-based saucepan, melt the butter over a medium-low heat. Once it’s foaming, add the onion and cook gently, stirring from time to time, for about 10 minutes until softened, but without letting it take on any colour. Stir in the caraway seeds and sweat for a further 1–2 minutes.
Pour in the wine and allow it to bubble away and reduce by half, then add the cabbage and beetroot. Pour in the chicken stock and top up with some of the reserved cooking liquid if necessary to cover the vegetables. Bring to the boil over a high heat, then lower the heat and simmer for 5 minutes.
Stir in the lemon juice, wine vinegar and thyme leaves. Season to taste with salt and pepper and adjust the consistency with more of the reserved cooking liquid if necessary.
Ladle the soup into warmed bowls and top with spoonfuls of soured cream. Spoon on some caviar and shredded, cooked duck if you’re feeling extra indulgent, and scatter over some thyme leaves.