bread of the seraglio

Depending on how you read seraglio (the word means both “harem” and “sultan’s palace”), this dish of Turkish origin could be an inexpensive dessert served to concubines or one fit for kings. But if the latter, then why the modest basic ingredient of stale bread? Either way, no Arab would view ‘aysh al-saraya as anything but a luxurious dessert with lavish amounts of clotted cream covering a bread base soaked in caramelized sugar syrup. It is often eaten alone as a sweet treat either at the confectioner’s or at home, or served as a dessert at the end of a special meal. The soft textures and different temperatures (chilled clotted cream on top of warm bread when served immediately after preparing) are heavenly, and I always find it very difficult to resist a second helping.

SERVES 4 TO 6

One day-old 8-in [20-cm] round loaf of bread

1¹/₄ cups [250 g] organic cane sugar

1 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

1 tsp orange blossom water

1 Tbsp rose water

1¹/₄ cups [300 g] Middle Eastern Clotted Cream (page 31) or English clotted cream

2 Tbsp coarsely chopped unsalted pistachios

Trim off and discard the crust of the bread, or reserve it for making bread crumbs. Tear the bread into irregular 1-in [2.5-cm] pieces.

In a medium saucepan, combine 3 Tbsp water, the sugar, and lemon juice. Bring to a boil over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly so that the sugar does not recrystallize, until the syrup has caramelized to a golden brown color, about 15 minutes; be careful not to burn it.

Put some water to boil and measure out ³/₄ cup [180 ml]. Gradually add the boiling water to the syrup, stirring with a long-handled wooden spoon; the syrup will splatter when you add the water, so make sure you do this very slowly and cautiously. Remove from the heat and add the orange blossom water and rose water.

Add the bread to the syrup and cook over medium heat for 5 to 10 minutes, pressing down and mashing the bread with the back of the spoon to help it soak up the syrup. The bread should absorb the syrup and become quite mushy.

Spread the bread in an even layer on an 8-in [20-cm] round serving platter. If there is any syrup left in the pan, pour it over the bread. Let cool for about 20 minutes.

Spread the clotted cream over the bread, leaving a little of the edge showing, and either garnish with the pistachios to serve immediately or cover and refrigerate for up to 1 day to serve later, in which case garnish just before serving it chilled.