Zalabia are a specialty of the mountains, and one of the very few sweets that are exclusively homemade. Christians prepare them for Epiphany (Ghtass) while Muslims make them during Ramadan, the month of fast. The name can be confusing, as it means different things in different countries. In Iran, for instance, zalabia describes syrupy braided fritters, which are known as mushabbak in Lebanon. I prefer this version, which is not so sweet. When served immediately after frying, the fritters have an appealing soft crunch. I also love the aniseed flavor, which always takes me back to our summers in the mountains, when my grandmother made them to welcome us the day we arrived from Beirut. Some people sprinkle zalabia with a little confectioners’ or granulated sugar before serving, but I find they are sweet enough without any additional sugar.
MAKES ABOUT 26 FRITTERS
12/3 cups [250 g] unbleached all-purpose flour
1 Tbsp ground aniseed
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp fast-acting (instant) yeast
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 cup [100 g] superfine sugar
1/2 cup plus 2 Tbsp [150 ml] whole milk
Sunflower oil for frying
Mix the flour, ground aniseed, cinnamon, and yeast in a mixing bowl and make a well in the center. Pour the olive oil into the well and rub it into the flour with your fingers until completely incorporated.
Stir the sugar into the milk until dissolved; add to the flour. Mix with a spatula until you have a loose dough. Cover with a damp, not sopping, towel and let sit for 1 hour, until risen.
Pour enough sunflower oil into a large, deep frying pan to reach a depth of 2 in [5 cm]. Place over medium heat. Check the temperature by dropping a little piece of dough into the oil; if the oil bubbles around it, it’s ready. (A candy thermometer should register 350°F [180°C].) Moisten your fingers and pinch off a knob of dough the size of a large apricot. Stretch the dough into a long fingerlike shape, about 4 to 6 in [10 to 15 cm] long by 11/4 in [3 cm] wide. Drop as many fritters into the oil as will fit comfortably without overcrowding.
Fry until golden brown all over, stirring them regularly so that they color evenly, 2 to 3 minutes on each side. The dough will puff up during frying and the fritters will end up looking like round, golden alien growths out of a science-fiction film (ideal for children’s parties). Using a slotted spoon, transfer to a wire rack. Set over a plate and let the excess oil drain off. Repeat with the remaining dough fingers, making sure the oil does not get too hot. Serve at room temperature.