NATEF

sweet soapwort dip

The dried roots of Saponaria officinalis and Gypsophila struthium are known as shirsh al-halawa in Arabic. The roots are boiled in water, strained out, and the water is whisked into a stiff white foam—an extraordinary transformation, thanks to the roots’ saponin (soap) content. The foam is then whisked with sugar syrup to make natef, a soft meringue-like dip. Soon after the publication of my book on Lebanese cuisine, Helen Saberi, Esteban Pombo-Villar, Alan Davidson, and I investigated whether shirsh al-halawa is soapwort or if it is bois de Panama (an extract from the Quillaja saponaria, or soapbark tree). Our results were published in the journal Petits Propos Culinaires, and later reprinted in The Wilder Shores of Gastronomy. We concluded shirsh al-halawa is indeed soapwort, although you can also use bois de Panama as a substitute to make natef.

Whenever I make natef, I anxiously wonder if the brown water will ever really whisk into a fluffy white cloud. It unfailingly does. Many sweets makers now make natef with egg white, but I consider this cheating and never buy natef unless it is made with soapwort root.

MAKES 2 CUPS [480 ML]

2 oz [55 g] soapwort root, rinsed well under cold water

2¹/₂ cups [600 ml] water

1¹/₂ cups [360 ml] Fragrant Sugar Syrup (page 46)

In a saucepan over medium heat, bring the soapwort and water to a boil; watch, as it will foam up and could boil over. Simmer until the liquid is reduced to ¹/₂ cup plus 2 Tbsp [150 ml]; by then it will have become brown.

Strain the soapwort liquid into a large mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer and, using an electric beater or a whisk attachment, beat until the water has turned into a white, shiny foam.

Gradually whisk the sugar syrup into the foam by hand until you have a fluffy, stretchy meringue-like mixture. The more powerful your whisking, the better the natef will be and the longer it will last without separating. Store, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 week. If you find that the mixture has separated, whisk it to recombine.