MAQRUD
date-filled pastries
Originally from Al-Qayrawan (also known as Kairouan), Tunisia, these flattened pastries are luscious. The meltingly soft date filling coupled with the final dip in honey syrup contrasts nicely with the crumbly semolina pastry. Deep-frying them until crisp and golden doubles the scrumptiousness. Once the pastries are filled, they are pressed with a special stamp to both flatten them and create a ridged design on the dough. You are unlikely to find the stamp outside Al-Qayrawan, but you can simply flatten the filled dough with your fingers and use the side of a box grater to leave a fish-scale pattern in the dough. The pastries may not end up as well shaped or as attractive as those made with the special stamp, but the taste will be just as delectable. You can also try using a cookie stamp.
MAKES 45 TO 50 PASTRIES
honey syrup
12/3 cups [400 ml] water
13/4 cups [350 g] organic cane sugar
1/3 cup [100 g] honey
pastry
Pinch of saffron threads
1 cup [240 ml] warm water
21/2 cups [450 g] fine semolina
1/4 tsp fine sea salt
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/4 cup [60 ml] extra-virgin olive oil
filling
11/2 cups [225 g] pitted dates
2 Tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
Grated zest of 1 orange
Sunflower oil for frying
To make the syrup: In a medium saucepan, combine the water, sugar, and honey and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Simmer for 3 minutes, remove from the heat, and let cool to room temperature.
To make the pastry: Crush the saffron threads between your fingers or in a small mortar with a pestle. In a small bowl, combine the saffron with the water and set aside to infuse for 15 minutes.
In a large mixing bowl, combine the semolina, salt, and baking soda; mix well, then make a well in the center. Add the olive oil and the saffron water and stir with your hand or a spatula to incorporate the wet and dry ingredients. Knead in the bowl by hand until you have a smooth, malleable dough. Cover with plastic wrap and let rest for 15 minutes.
To make the filling: While the dough is resting, in a food processor, pulse the dates until coarsely chopped. Add the olive oil, cinnamon, and orange zest and process until the mixture forms a smooth paste, about 1 minute, scraping down the bowl as needed. Divide the filling into 12 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a cylinder about 3/4 in [2 cm] thick and 2 in [5 cm] long and set on a plate or baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap.
Lightly oil a baking sheet (or use a nonstick baking sheet). Place a wire rack over a second baking sheet.
Divide the dough into 12 equal pieces and shape each piece into a ball. Roll one ball of dough into an oval about 4 in [10 cm] in length, 2 in [5 cm] wide, and 1/2 in [12 mm] thick. Place a filling cylinder along the length of the dough oval, centered over one half. Fold the other half over, enclosing the filling. Using your fingers or the fine-holed side of a box grater, flatten the filled dough to an even 1/2-in [12-mm] thickness. Using a chef’s knife, trim the ends, and then cut the dough at an angle into diamonds with about 1-in [2.5-cm] sides; you should be able to cut four diamonds. Lay them on the oiled baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining dough and filling.
Pour enough sunflower oil into a larger, deep frying pan to reach a depth of 2 in [5 cm]. Place over medium heat. Check the temperature by dropping in a piece of dough into the oil; if the oil bubbles around it, it’s ready. (A candy thermometer should register 350°F [180°C].) Drop in as many pastries as will comfortably fit without overcrowding.
Fry the pastries until golden all over, 2 to 3 minutes on each side.
Remove the pastries using a slotted spoon and drop them into the syrup. Turn a few times in the syrup to coat them well, and then transfer to the prepared rack to allow the excess syrup to drain off.
Fry and coat the remaining pastries in the same way, making sure the oil does not get too hot. Let cool on the rack to room temperature. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 3 days.
