KOL WA SHKOR

baklava

The term baklava is generic, referring to a whole selection of sweets made with either phyllo or “hair” pastry (see page 81). Most of those made with phyllo are known as kol wa shkor (eat and be thankful), whereas those made with “hair” pastry are known under different names: borma (meaning “twist” and describing long rolls of hair pastry wrapping pistachios) or balluriyeh (a white, square version of borma). The best baklava is made by specialists, as it is not so easy to make at home. However, it is very satisfying to make your own even if it will not be as exquisite as that made by the professionals. Here, I give a recipe for a simple version made with phyllo. Although the pros roll out their own phyllo, store-bought phyllo works fine.

SERVES 4

filling

1¹/₃ cups [200 g] hulled unsalted pistachios

¹/₂ cup [100 g] superfine sugar

1 Tbsp orange blossom water

1 Tbsp rose water

12 sheets phyllo pastry, each measuring 7 by 12¹/₂ in [18 by 32 cm]

5 Tbsp [75 g] unsalted butter, melted

6 Tbsp [90 ml] Fragrant Sugar Syrup (page 46)

Preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C]. Butter a medium baking dish measuring about 7 by 12¹/₂ by 1¹/₄ in [18 by 32 by 3 cm].

To make the filling: Coarsely grind the pistachios in a spice grinder or small food processor and transfer to a mixing bowl. Add the sugar, orange blossom water, and rose water; mix well. Set aside.

Spread one sheet of phyllo pastry over the bottom of the prepared baking dish. (Keep the other sheets covered with plastic wrap and a clean kitchen towel over that so the phyllo doesn’t dry out.) Brush with melted butter. Lay another sheet over the first and brush with more melted butter; repeat with an addtional four sheets, brushing each with butter for a total of six layers of phyllo. Spread the pistachio filling evenly over the pastry and cover with six more layers of phyllo, brushing each one with melted butter. Pour any leftover butter over the pastry.

Cut the pastry into 2-in [5-cm] squares or into thin rectangles about 2 in [5 cm] long and ³/₄ in [2 cm] wide.

Bake until crisp and golden, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and let sit for a minute or two before pouring the sugar syrup all over the pastry. Store in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days.

Variation: You can vary the shape by making rolls that are cut into short fingers before baking. Lay one sheet of phyllo on your work surface with the long side facing you. Brush with melted butter and arrange one-twelfth of the nut filling in a thin line all along the long side nearest to you, about ¹/₂ in [12 mm] away from the edge. Flip the edge over the filling and carefully roll the pastry to make a long, thin sausage. Brush the roll with melted butter and carefully lift it, placing it on the baking dish against the long edge. Make the remaining rolls in the same way, aligning them against the first roll until you have filled the baking dish. Cut the rolls into 2-in [5-cm] fingers and proceed as directed.