sugar-and-spice rings

When I was a child, I loved to play with these ring-shaped cookies, placing as many as would fit around my fingers before eating them. I have to say I still do this whenever I make them, feeling only a little sheepish about regressing into childhood ways. Muslims make them for the feast of the Sacrifice (Eid al-Adha), which concludes the month of pilgrimage to Mecca known as Hajj in Arabic. They are scrumptious and intriguing because they are flavored with both mahlab and mastic. Mastic has a mysterious, slightly resiny flavor that can be overwhelming if used in excess. The same can be said of mahlab, which when used sparingly imparts subtle nutty and floral flavors. The rings are very simple to make, and their texture is close to shortbread, though a little less crumbly.

MAKES ABOUT 40 COOKIES

2 cups [350 g] fine semolina

4 small grains mastic (see page 55), finely ground in a small mortar with a pestle to yield ¹/₄ tsp powdered mastic

¹/₈ tsp ground nutmeg

Scant ¹/₄ tsp finely ground mahlab (see page 20)

¹/₈ tsp fast-acting (instant) yeast

7¹/₂ Tbsp [100 g] unsalted butter, at room temperature

5 Tbsp [75 g] superfine sugar

Scant ¹/₂ cup [120 ml] whole milk

Mix the semolina, mastic, nutmeg, mahlab, and yeast in a mixing bowl. Add the butter and rub together with the tips of your fingers until the fat is fully incorporated.

Stir the sugar into the milk until it dissolves. Add the sweetened milk to the semolina mixture and knead with your hands until you have a smooth and malleable dough. Cover with a damp, not sopping, kitchen towel and let rest for 1¹/₂ hours.

Preheat the oven to 400°F [200°C]. Line two baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats.

Pinch off a small piece of dough and shape into a ball the size of a small walnut. Roll it into a thin sausage about ¹/₂ in [12 mm] thick and 4¹/₂ in [11 cm] long. Bring the ends together and lightly press one on top of the other to make a ring about 2 in [5 cm] in diameter. Carefully place on a prepared baking sheet, taking care not to spoil the shape, and continue making and arranging the cookies until you have used up all the dough. You should end up with about 40 cookies.

Bake until golden brown, 15 to 18 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack to cool completely. Store in an airtight container, in a cool place, for up to 2 weeks.