The color of this ice cream will vary according to the type of figs you use. I like to use purple figs, for their vibrant color. I also find their flavor stronger than that of the sweeter and more subtle green figs. That said, all types are suitable as long as the figs are ripe and sweet. You can use this recipe as the base recipe for any other fruit ice cream, varying it endlessly by using whatever fruit is in season, from mulberries to mangoes to strawberries to prickly pears to bananas. The only thing to change is the amount of sugar, according to the sweetness of the fruit. If you are using berries, cook them lightly with the sugar before pulping them to get rid of some of their water content. I was given this very useful tip by Shuna Lydon, pastry chef extraordinaire, who worked at the French Laundry, among many other places.
MAKES ABOUT 11/4 QT [1.25 L]
11/4 cups [300 ml] whole milk
18 oz [500 g] fresh ripe figs
11/4 cups [300 ml] crème fraîche
3/4 cup plus 2 Tbsp [175 g] superfine sugar
Put the milk in a saucepan, place over medium heat, and bring to a boil. Watch carefully so the milk doesn’t boil over. Remove from the heat and let cool.
Process the figs in a food processor until reduced to a mush. Transfer the puréed figs to a mixing bowl with a spout or a large measuring cup. Strain the cooled milk over them and add the crème fraîche and sugar. Stir until the sugar has dissolved and the cream is fully incorporated. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for a couple of hours, until thoroughly chilled.
Transfer to an ice-cream maker and process according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to an airtight container and put in the freezer; leave uncovered for the first 10 minutes of freezing to avoid the formation of ice crystals. Store, covered, in the freezer for up to 1 month.