date ice cream

This is a luscious ice cream, flecked with brown bits of date that you can strain out if you want the ice cream to be totally silky. I love the combination of saffron, cardamom, and rose water—the quintessential flavors of the Arabian Gulf, in both savory and sweet dishes. I often use goat’s milk and goat’s cream in my ice creams because the results are lighter and more flavorful, but you don’t need to follow my example if these ingredients are unavailable. Substitute a very good organic whole milk and crème fraîche. The ideal dates to use here are Khlass from Saudi Arabia, but these may not be readily available, so substitute Deglet Noor, Barhi, or Medjool if you need to.

MAKES 1¹/₂ QT [1.5 L]

¹/₄ cup [40 g] cornstarch

4 cups [960 ml] goat’s milk

¹/₂ cup [100 g] organic cane sugar

Pinch of saffron threads

2 Tbsp rose water

2 tsp ground cardamom

3 cups [450 g] pitted dates, preferably Khlass

1 cup [240 ml] goat’s cream or crème fraîche

3 Tbsp slivered or chopped pistachios

1 Tbsp dried unsprayed rose petals

Whisk the cornstarch into ¹/₂ cup [120 ml] of the goat’s milk.

Put the remaining goat’s milk, the sugar, and saffron in a saucepan and place over medium heat. Slowly add the cornstarch-milk mixture, whisking all the time. Bring to a boil, still whisking. Let bubble for about 5 minutes while still whisking, until the milk has thickened and taken on a pale yellow color from the saffron. Remove from the heat and add the rose water and cardamom. Cover with a clean kitchen towel and let cool.

Put the dates and goat’s cream in a food processor—even if you buy pitted dates, check them for pits. Process until the dates are pulverized. Add about 1 cup [240 ml] of the thickened milk and process until the mixture is creamy. Transfer to a 2-qt [2-L] measuring cup and add the remaining thickened milk. Whisk until well blended. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for a couple of hours, until the mixture is thoroughly chilled.

Transfer the mixture to an ice-cream maker and process according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Transfer to an airtight container and put in the freezer; leave the container uncovered for the first 10 minutes of freezing to avoid the formation of ice crystals. Store, covered, in the freezer for up to 1 month. Serve sprinkled with the pistachios and dried rose petals.