MURABBA AL-ZAHR
orange blossom jam
Orange blossoms have a special place in Middle Eastern kitchens, both the fragrant water distilled from the flowers and the jam made with them. It is easier to make the jam at home than to distill the water, a job for which you need a special still. In the Middle East, it is easy to buy the blossoms when in season. I tested this recipe with my friend Amy Dencler, who cooks at Chez Panisse, picking the blossoms on Mary Taylor Simeti’s farm in Sicily in spring. If you live in California or Florida, you will be able to get the blossoms, and I promise it is well worth your while to do so. This jam is incredibly beautiful, the blossoms turning a pastel pink because of the added natural colorant. Middle Eastern sweets makers use enough artificial coloring to turn the blossoms red, and then use them as a garnish on creamy sweets; the blossoms have a delightful and subtle floral flavor. The only drawback is that it takes a fairly long time to pick the petals off the flowers. Orange blossom jam is also available commercially but it lacks the purity of homemade. Use two 1/2-pt [240-ml] sterilized jars (see facing page).
MAKES 1 PT [640 ML]
21/4 lb [1 kg] orange blossoms
4 cups [800 g] organic cane sugar
A few drops of natural red food coloring
1/2 cup [120 ml] freshly squeezed lemon juice
Pick the petals off the orange blossoms. Place in a medium saucepan with enough water to cover them by about 3/4 in [2 cm]. Bring to a boil and continue boiling for 30 minutes. Drain and rinse under cold water; let them soak in a bowl of fresh water while you make the syrup.
Put the sugar in a saucepan. Add 11/2 qt [1.5 L] water and bring to a boil. Add the food coloring and simmer for 30 minutes; let cool.
Drain the blossoms well and add to the syrup. Let soak for 24 hours. Strain the blossoms out of the syrup, return the syrup to the saucepan, and boil the syrup for another 10 minutes. Return the blossoms to the syrup and let bubble for 10 minutes longer, then add the lemon juice. Let bubble for a final 10 minutes.
Pour the jam into sterilized jam jars. Cover each jar with a piece of wax paper, immediately seal the jars, and let cool. Store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.