Preface: AOC
1 Michelle Ruiz, ‘Becoming AOC’, Vanity Fair, December 2020, p. 62, archive.vanityfair.com/article/2020/12/becoming-aoc
2 Here is the list: toner; vitamin C serum; moisturiser; SPF; tinted moisturiser or double-wear foundation (when it’s going to be a long day); colour corrector; concealer; contour stick; cream blush; brow brush (brows are in fashion in 2020, she reminds us, for which she is grateful as someone with a naturally full brow); brow pencil; highlighter; eyeshadow; eyeliner; eyelash curler; mascara; bronzer; liquid lipstick (Stila’s Beso)
3 Shane Goldmacher, ‘Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez: Jewish, too?’, New York Times, 10 December 2018, nytimes.com/2018/12/10/nyregion/ocasio-cortez-jewish.html
4 Vogue, ‘Congresswoman Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez’s guide to her signature red lip | Beauty Secrets | Vogue’, YouTube, 22 August 2020, youtu.be/bXqZllqGWGQ
1: What is skin?
1 Fran Manushkin, illustrated by Lauren Tobia, Happy in Our Skin, Candlewick, London, 2015
2 John A. McGrath and Jouni Uitto, ‘Structure and function of the skin, 2.1’, in Rook’s Textbook of Dermatology, edited by Christopher E. M. Griffiths, Jonathan Barker, Tanya Bleiker, Robert Chalmers and Daniel Creamer, ninth edition, John Wiley & Sons, Ltd, Chichester, West Sussex, 2016
3 Sandeep Jauhar, Heart: A history, OneWorld Publications, London, 2018; Giulia Enders, Gut: The inside story of our body’s most underrated organ, Scribe, Brunswick, Vic., 2014. The third book isn’t simply ‘The Brain’ – I have taken licence with Norman Doidge, The Brain That Changes Itself, Scribe, Melbourne, 2010
4 Nina G. Jablonski, Skin: A natural history, University of California Press, Berkeley, 2006, p. 1
5 DermNet New Zealand Trust, ‘Principles of dermatological practice: Structure of the epidermis’, DermNet NZ, 2008, dermnetnz.org/cme/principles/structure-of-the-epidermis
6 Adam Taylor, ‘Why men and women can’t agree on the perfect temperature’, The Conversation, 26 October 2016, theconversation.com/why-men-and-women-cant-agree-on-the-perfect-temperature-66585
7 Monty Lyman, The Remarkable Life of the Skin: An intimate journey across our surface, Bantam Press, London, 2019, p. 3
8 Vicki Contie, ‘Merkel cells give you a light touch’, NIH Research Matters, National Institutes of Health (US), 29 June 2009, nih.gov/news-events/nih-research-matters/merkel-cells-give-you-light-touch
9 McGrath and Uitto, ‘Structure and function of the skin, 2.1’, in Rook’s Textbook of Dermatology
10 Lyman, p. 15
11 Lyman, p. 16
12 Professor Dave Explains, ‘The integumentary system’, YouTube, youtu.be/p4hnFf_jmvU
13 McGrath and Uitto, ‘Structure and function of the skin, 2.1’, in Rook’s Textbook of Dermatology
14 Joseph Fowler, MD, FAAD, ‘Understanding the role of natural moisturizing factor in skin hydration’, Practical Dermatology, July 2012, practicaldermatology.com/articles/2012-jul/understanding-the-role-of-natural-moisturizing-factor-in-skin-hydration; Enamul Haque Mojumdar, Quoc Dat Pham, Daniel Topgaard and Emma Sparr, ‘Skin hydration: Interplay between molecular dynamics, structure and water uptake in the stratum corneum’, Scientific Reports, volume 7, article number 15712, 2017, nature.com/articles/s41598-017-15921-5
15 Bill Bryson, The Body: A guide for occupants, Doubleday, London, 2019, p. 22
16 Lyman, p. 11
17 Adam Taylor, ‘Anhidrosis: Why some people – apparently like Prince Andrew – just can’t sweat’, The Conversation, 19 November 2019, theconversation.com/anhidrosis-why-some-people-apparently-like-prince-andrew-just-cant-sweat-127280
18 McGrath and Uitto, ‘Structure and function of the skin, 2.1’, in Rook’s Textbook of Dermatology
19 Sarah Fieldhouse, ‘We’ve discovered a way to recover DNA from fingerprints without destroying them’, The Conversation, 25 June 2018, theconversation.com/weve-discovered-a-way-to-recover-dna-from-fingerprints-without-destroying-them-98399
20 Lyman, p. 176
2: A short version of the long history of dermatology
1 Iva Dixit, ‘My life with Retin-A’, New Yorker, 29 November 2017, newyorker.com/culture/personal-history/my-life-with-retin-a
2 ‘Meet Dana Slape, Australia’s first Aboriginal dermatologist’ (video), 7.30, abc.net.au/7.30/meet-dana-slape,-australias-first-aboriginal/12695316
3 Kate Beckman and Hannah Malach, ‘15 things I wish I knew before I became a dermatologist’, Cosmopolitan, 11 February 2020, cosmopolitan.com/career/a45967/things-i-wish-i-knew-before-i-became-a-dermatologist
4 Andy Ackerman (director), ‘The Slicer’ (television program), Seinfeld (season 9, episode 7), original broadcast date 13 November 1997
5 J. Guckian, A. Sridhar and S. J. Meggitt, ‘Exploring the perspectives of dermatology undergraduates with an escape room game’, Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, volume 45, number 2, 2020, pp. 153–8, onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/ced.14039
6 Western Sydney Local Health District, ‘Decade of service for renowned Westmead dermatologist’, The Pulse, 5 August 2020, thepulse.org.au/2020/08/05/decade-of-service-for-renowned-westmead-dermatologist
7 Mark Griffiths, ‘Specialty spotlight – dermatology’, Royal College of Physicians, 2 November 2015, rcplondon.ac.uk/education-practice/advice/specialty-spotlight-dermatology
8 Neil Singh, ‘Decolonising dermatology: Why black and brown skin need better treatment’, The Guardian, 13 August 2020, theguardian.com/society/2020/aug/13/decolonising-dermatology-why-black-and-brown-skin-need-better-treatment
9 Kylie Bartholomew, ‘Medical student Malone Mukwende’s book on why brown skin matters meets with “phenomenal” response’, ABC News, 1 September 2020, abc.net.au/news/2020-09-01/malone-mukwende-mind-the-gap-handbook-sees-success/12601190
10 Roy Porter, The Greatest Benefit to Mankind: A medical history of humanity, W. W. Norton and Company, New York, 1998, p. 15
11 Rosa Santoro, ‘Skin over the centuries. A short history of dermatology: Physiology, pathology and cosmetics’, Medicina Historica, volume 1, number 2, 2017, pp. 94–102
12 Nick J. Levell, ‘History of dermatology, 1.1’ and Eubee Koo, Alexandra B. Kimball and Molly Wanner, ‘Cosmeceuticals, 156.1’, in Rook’s Textbook of Dermatology, edited by Christopher E. M. Griffiths, Jonathan Barker, Tanya Bleiker, Robert Chalmers and Daniel Creamer, ninth edition, John Wiley & Sons, Ltd, Chichester, West Sussex, 2016
13 Monty Lyman, The Remarkable Life of the Skin: An intimate journey across our surface, Bantam Press, London, 2019, pp. 10–11
14 W. Montagna, ‘The evolution of human skin’, in Advanced Views in Primate Biology, Proceedings in Life Sciences, edited by A. B. Chiarelli and R. S. Corrucini, Springer, Berlin; Heidelberg, 1982
15 Nina G. Jablonski, Skin: A natural history, University of California Press, Berkeley, 2006 includes this description in footnote 1, chapter 1, p. 182
16 Montagna, p. 36
17 N. S. McNutt and K. S. Carlisle, ‘Dedication – in honor of Montagna, William, PhD’, Journal of Cutaneous Pathology, volume 23, 1996, pp. 295–6
18 Yana G. Kamberov, Samantha M. Guhan, Alessandra DeMarchis, Judy Jiang, Sara Sherwood Wright, Bruce A. Morgan, Pardis C. Sabeti, Clifford J. Tabin and Daniel E. Lieberman, ‘Comparative evidence for the independent evolution of hair and sweat gland traits in primates’, Journal of Human Evolution, volume 125, December 2018, pp. 99–105. Also, Jason Daley, ‘Why did humans lose their fur?’, Smithsonian magazine, 11 December 2018, smithsonianmag.com/science-nature/why-did-humans-evolve-lose-fur-180970980
19 Jablonski, Skin, p. 55
20 Howard I. Kushner, ‘Medical historians and the history of medicine’, The Lancet, volume 372, number 9640, 2008, pp. 710–11
21 ‘The history of dermatology’, British Medical Journal, volume 1, number 3768, 25 March 1933, p. 524 jstor.org/stable/25350988
22 William Allen Pusey, The History of Dermatology, C. C. Thomas Books, Springfield, Illinois, 1933
23 The epigraph is from historian James Harvey Robinson. (Pusey gets his middle name wrong in the book.)
24 Samuel J. Zakon, ‘A man to remember: William Allen Pusey 1865– 1940’, International Journal of Dermatology, volume 13, number 6, November 1974, pp. 413–15
25 Porter, p. 73
26 Steven Connor, The Book of Skin, Reaktion Books, London, 2004, p. 26
27 H. N. Sallam, ‘Aristotle, godfather of evidence-based medicine’, Facts, Views & Vision in ObGyn, volume 2, number 1, 2010, pp. 11–19, ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4154333
28 Sigrid Goldiner, ‘Medicine in the Middle Ages’, in Heilbrunn Timeline of Art History, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, January 2012, metmuseum.org/toah/hd/medm/hd_medm.htm
29 French historian Marc Bloch wrote a whole book about it: The Royal Touch: Sacred monarchy and scrofula in England and France, translated by J. E. Anderson, McGill Queens University Press, Montreal, 1973. (In France it was published as Les rois thaumaturges.)
30 Fleta N. Bray, Mohammed Alsaidan, Brian J. Simmons, Leyre Ainara Falto-Aizpurua and Keyvan Nouri, ‘Scrofula and the divine right of royalty: The King’s Touch’, JAMA Dermatology, volume 151, number 7, 2015, p. 702, pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26153633
31 William Shakespeare, Macbeth, Act IV, Scene 3 in The New Cambridge Shakespeare, edited by A. R. Braunmuller, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 2008, p. 227
32 ‘Gold coin used in the ceremony of touching for the king’s evil’, British Library, bl.uk/collection-items/gold-coin-used-in-the-ceremony-of-touching-for-the-kings-evil
33 Marcia Ramos-e-Silva, ‘Saint Hildegard von Bingen (1098–1179): “The light of her people and of her time”’, International Journal of Dermatology, volume 38, number 4, 1999, pp. 315–20, onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1046/j.1365-4362.1999.00617.x
34 William L. Minkowski, ‘Women healers of the Middle Ages’, American Journal of Public Health, volume 82, number 2, 1992, pp. 288–95, ajph.aphapublications.org/doi/pdf/10.2105/AJPH.82.2.288
35 Brian H. Bennett, David L. Parker and Mark Robson, ‘Leprosy: Steps along the journey of eradication’, Public Health Reports, volume 123, number 2, pp. 198–205, journals.sagepub.com/doi/pdf/10.1177/003335490812300212
36 Pusey, p. 39
37 Lyman, pp. 211, 206
38 Lyman, p. 202
39 Jacek Drobnik, ‘Chinese vegetative materia medica in a venereological treatise by Jean Astruc from 1740’, Journal of Ethnopharmacology, volume 187, July 2016, pp. 293–301, sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0378874116302562
40 Pusey, p. 55
41 Steven Shapin, ‘A pox on the poor’, London Review of Books, 4 February 2021, p. 3, lrb.co.uk/the-paper/v43/n03/steven-shapin/a-pox-on-the-poor
42 Deborah Brunton, ‘Willan, Robert (1757–1812), physician and dermatologist’, Oxford Dictionary of National Biography, 23 September 2004; Rakesh Patalay, Kieron S. Leslie and Nick J. Levell, ‘Robert Willan and the age of enlightenment’, International Journal of Dermatology, volume 47, number 3, 2008, pp. 297–300; Karl Holubar, ‘Robert Willan’s description and treatment of cutaneous diseases 1797/1798: A bicentennial’, Journal of Investigative Dermatology, volume 110, number 1, p. 101, core.ac.uk/download/pdf/82369414.pdf
43 Claire Voon, ‘Painstaking portraits of 19th-century dermatology patients’, Hyperallergic, 14 April 2016, hyperallergic.com/290168/painstaking-portraits-of-19th-century-dermatology-patients
44 Hon A/Prof Amanda Oakley, ‘Scabies’, DermNet NZ, September 2015, dermnetnz.org/topics/scabies; Andrew Steer, ‘Scabies: A neglected parasitic disease we already know how to treat’, The Conversation, 15 November 2016, theconversation.com/scabies-a-neglected-parasitic-disease-we-already-know-how-to-treat-68147
45 Charles J. Puza and Visakha Suresh, ‘Scabies and pruritus – a historical review’, JAMA Dermatology, volume 154, number 5, p. 536, doi.org/10.1001/jamadermatol.2018.0147
46 Pusey, p. 109
47 ‘Dermatology: 2016 factsheet’, Australian Government Department of Health, hwd.health.gov.au/webapi/customer/documents/factsheets/2016/Dermatology.pdf
48 Michi Shinohara, ‘The gender gap in dermatology: Where are we now?’, Practical Dermatology, January 2019, pp. 36–40, practicaldermatology.com/articles/2019-jan/the-gender-gap-in-dermatology-where-are-we-now?c4src=issue:feed
49 Robert J. Smith and Brittany U. Oliver, ‘Advocating for Black Lives – a call to dermatologists to dismantle institutionalized racism and address racial health inequities’, JAMA Dermatology, volume 157, number 2, 1 February 2021, pp. 155–6, doi.org/10.1001/jamadermatol.2020.4392
3: 58 per cent Irish skin
1 Channel 4 News, ‘Adam Rutherford: The genetics of skin colour’, YouTube, 4 March 2020, youtube.com/watch?v=3F0YSyeQavU
2 Jennifer Raff, ‘Genetic astrology: When ancient DNA meets ancestry testing’, Forbes, 9 April 2019, forbes.com/sites/jenniferraff/2019/04/09/genetic-astrology-when-ancient-dna-meets-ancestry-testing
3 ‘Race – the power of an illusion’, interview with Alan Goodman, edited transcript, PBS, 2003, pbs.org/race/000_About/002_04-background-01-07.htm. I discovered this conversation in a footnote to Eula Biss’s Notes from No Man’s Land, Graywolf Press, Minneapolis, 2018
4 Joseph L. Graves Jr and Alan H. Goodman, Racism, not Race: Answers to frequently asked questions, Columbia University Press, New York, 2021, p. xviii
5 Carl Zimmer, ‘Genes for skin color rebut dated notions of race, researchers say’, New York Times, 12 October 2017, nytimes.com/2017/10/12/science/skin-color-race.html
6 Jan Sapp, ‘Race finished’, American Scientist, volume 100, number 2, March–April 2012, p. 164, americanscientist.org/article/race-finished
7 ‘Race – the power of an illusion’
8 Ian Holmes, ‘What happens when geneticists talk sloppily about race’, The Atlantic, 26 April 2018, theatlantic.com/science/archive/2018/04/reich-genetics-racism/558818
9 ‘Genetic ancestry testing’, Sense About Science (archive), archive.senseaboutscience.org/pages/genetic-ancestry-testing.html; Raff, ‘Genetic astrology’
10 TedX Talks, ‘Rethink everything we know about genes and identity politics | Adam Rutherford | TEDxGlasgow’, YouTube, 13 June 2018, youtu.be/f55-ltaieV0
11 Adam Rutherford, How to Argue with a Racist: History, science, race and reality, Weidenfeld & Nicolson, London, 2020, p. 86
12 Robin D. G. Kelley, ‘What did Cedric Robinson mean by racial capitalism?’ Boston Review, 12 January 2017, bostonreview.net/race/robin-d-g-kelley-what-did-cedric-robinson-mean-racial-capitalism
13 Elizabeth Watt, Emma Kowal and Shaun Lehmann, ‘A DNA test says you’ve got Indigenous Australian ancestry. Now what?’, The Conversation, 3 May 2018, theconversation.com/a-dna-test-says-youve-got-indigenous-australian-ancestry-now-what-95785
14 Melissa Lucashenko, ‘Too deadly: Coronavirus in Blak Australia’, in Fire Flood Plague: Australian writers respond to 2020, edited by Sophie Cunningham, Vintage, Sydney, 2020, p. 139
15 Rutherford, p. 96
16 Annette Gordon-Reed, Thomas Jefferson and Sally Hemings: An American controversy, University Press of Virginia, Charlottesville, 1997
17 Jill Lepore, These Truths: A history of the United States, W. W. Norton & Company, New York, 2018, p. 175
18 Thomas Jefferson Foundation, ‘Monticello affirms Thomas Jefferson fathered children with Sally Hemings’, Monticello, monticello.org/thomas-jefferson/jefferson-slavery/thomas-jefferson-and-sally-hemings-a-brief-account/monticello-affirms-thomas-jefferson-fathered-children-with-sally-hemings
19 Farah Stockman and Gabriella Demczuk, ‘Monticello is done avoiding Jefferson’s relationship with Sally Hemings’, New York Times, 16 June 2018, nytimes.com/2018/06/16/us/sally-hemings-exhibit-monticello.html
20 Wendy D. Roth, ‘Genetic ancestry tests don’t change your identity, but you might’, The Conversation, 5 July 2018, theconversation.com/genetic-ancestry-tests-dont-change-your-identity-but-you-might-98663
21 Dr Farfán-Santos told me in an email that she first heard the phrase in the poem ‘How to explain white supremacy to a white supremacist’ by Kyle ‘Guante’ Tran Myhre. See Guante, ‘white supremacy is not a shark; it is the water’, 22 November 2020, guante.info/2020/11/22/nottheshark
22 Rutherford, p. 90
23 Alvin B. Tillery, Jr, ‘CSDD & 23andMe race and genomics survey’, Center for the Study of Diversity and Democracy, Northwestern University, 17 August 2018, csdd.northwestern.edu/research/csdd-23andme-race-and-genomics-survey-2018.html
24 Rutherford, p. 59
25 Alan Goodman, ‘Race is real, but it’s not genetic’, Sapiens, 13 March 2020, sapiens.org/biology/is-race-real
26 Rutherford, p. 59
27 The Genetics Society, ‘Out of Africa: Uncovering history and diversity in the human genome’ (podcast), Genetics Unzipped (season 3, episode 10), 7 May 2020, geneticsunzipped.com/blog/2020/5/7/s310-out-of-africa-uncovering-history-and-diversity-in-the-human-genome
28 I first heard this quote in the video that accompanies Wendy Roth’s piece in The Conversation. It’s cited often. For many Dominicans, ‘true’ black people are Haitians. Rachel Nolan, ‘Displaced in the DR’, Harpers, May 2015, harpers.org/archive/2015/05/displaced-in-the-d-r/5
29 ‘Race – the power of an illusion’, interview with Alan Goodman
30 Nina G. Jablonski, Living Color: The biological and social meaning of skin color, University of California Press, Berkeley, 2012, p. 164
31 ‘Race – the power of an illusion’, interview with Alan Goodman
32 Michael Yudell, ‘A short history of the race concept’, in Race and the Genetic Revolution: Science, myth, and culture, edited by Sheldon Krimsky and Kathleen Sloan, Columbia University Press, New York, 2011, p. 25
33 Ewen Callaway, ‘Watson vs Venter: The loser is race-based medicine’, New Scientist, 20 August 2008, newscientist.com/article/dn14568-watson-vs-venter-the-loser-is-race-based-medicine
34 Yudell, ‘A short history of the race concept’, p. 16
35 Michael Yudell, Dorothy Roberts, Rob DeSalle, Sarah Tishkoff, and another 70 signatories, ‘NIH must confront the use of race in science’, Science, 11 September 2020, volume 369, issue 6509, pp. 1313–14, doi.org/10.1126/science.abd4842
36 Megan Gannon, ‘Race is a social construct, scientists argue’, Scientific American, 5 February, 2016, scientificamerican.com/article/race-is-a-social-construct-scientists-argue
37 Jablonski, Living Color, p. 2
38 Yudell, ‘A short history of the race concept’, p. 16
39 Jablonski, Living Color, pp. 129–30
40 Holmes, ‘What happens when geneticists talk sloppily about race’
41 Graves and Goodman, p. 1
42 Jablonski, Living Color, p. 93
43 Bryson, p. 15
44 Graves and Goodman, p. 9
45 Jablonski, Living Color, p. 13
46 Monty Lyman, The Remarkable Life of the Skin: An intimate journey across our surface, Bantam Press, London, 2019, p. 71
47 Lyman, p. 72
48 Jablonski, Living Color, p. 3
49 Jablonski, Living Color, p. 48
50 Jablonski, Living Color, p. 48
51 Jablonski, Living Color, p. 39
52 Jablonski, Living Color, p. 42
53 Jablonski, Living Color, p. 54
54 Jablonski, Living Color, p. 61
4: This is who we are
1 Fran Lebowitz, ‘Fran Lebowitz on race and racism’, Vanity Fair, 1 October 1997, vanityfair.com/culture/2016/01/fran-lebowitz-on-race-and-racism
2 Helen Davidson, ‘The story of David Dungay and an Indigenous death in custody’, The Guardian, 11 June 2020, theguardian.com/australia-news/2020/jun/11/the-story-of-david-dungay-and-an-indigenous-death-in-custody
3 Lorena Allam, ‘UN asked to look into the death in custody of Indigenous man David Dungay’, The Guardian, 10 June 2021, theguardian.com/australia-news/2021/jun/10/david-dungays-death-in-custody-to-be-taken-to-un-human-rights-committee
4 Jenna Wortham, ‘A “glorious poetic rage”’, New York Times, 5 June 2020, nytimes.com/2020/06/05/sunday-review/black-lives-matter-protests-floyd.html
5 ‘Black Lives Matter movement’, Law Library, Howard University School of Law, 2018, library.law.howard.edu/civilrightshistory/BLM
6 ‘Will a coronavirus outbreak come out of the Australian Black Lives Matter protests?’, ABC News, 8 June 2020, abc.net.au/news/2020-06-08/australia-black-lives-matter-protests-coronavirus-cluster-risk/12331796
7 Anita Heiss, Am I Black Enough for You? Bantam, Sydney, 2012
8 Alexis Wright, ‘In times like these, what would Oodgeroo do?’, The Monthly, December 2020 – January 2021, themonthly.com.au/issue/2020/december/1606741200/alexis-wright/times-these-what-would-oodgeroo-do
9 Larissa Behrendt, Amy McQuire, Alison Whittaker, George Newhouse, Eddie Cubillo and Amanda Porter, ‘Black Lives Matter’, webinar, 16 July 2020, law.unimelb.edu.au/about/welcome/mls-indigenous/news-and-events/past-events/black-lives-matter-webinar
10 Lorena Allam and Nick Evershed, ‘Discrimination against Indigenous Australians has risen dramatically, survey finds’, The Guardian, 24 May 2021, theguardian.com/australia-news/2021/may/24/discrimination-against-indigenous-australians-has-risen-dramatically-survey-finds
11 Alana Lentin, Why Race Still Matters, Polity Press, Cambridge, UK; Medford, MA, 2020, p. 14
12 ‘Reni Eddo-Lodge: “Racism is a white problem”’ (podcast), It’s Not a Race, ABC Radio National, 31 August 2017, abc.net.au/radionational/programs/itsnotarace/8859978
13 Jaswinder Bolina, Of Color: Essays, McSweeney’s Publishing, San Francisco, 2020, p. 99
14 Claudia Rankine, ‘The condition of Black life is one of mourning’, in The Fire This Time: A new generation speaks about race, edited by Jesmyn Ward, Bloomsbury, London, 2019, pp. 145–6
15 Melissa Phruksachart, ‘The literature of White liberalism’, Boston Review, 21 August 2020, bostonreview.net/race/melissa-phruksachart-literature-white-liberalism. This article helped me to navigate my way through the genre of books (Phruksachart calls them post-Coatesian) aimed mainly at White readers such as myself. They have indeed given us new language to discuss race but for many readers it may be about a palatable personal enlightenment rather than attempting structural change. In other words, it is possible for White people to ignore the brutal fact that racist structures require racist people.
16 Alison Whittaker, ‘So White. So What.’, Meanjin, Autumn 2020, p. 54, meanjin.com.au/essays/so-white-so-what
17 Ta-Nehisi Coates, ‘The first white president’, The Atlantic, October 2017, theatlantic.com/magazine/archive/2017/10/the-first-white-president-ta-nehisi-coates/537909/October 2017
18 Bolina, p. 36
19 Reni Eddo-Lodge, Why I’m No Longer Talking to White People About Race, Bloomsbury Circus, London, 2017, pp. 54–5
20 Alison Whittaker, ‘White critics don’t know how to deal with the golden age of Indigenous stories’, The Guardian, 15 March 2019, theguardian.com/australia-news/2019/mar/15/nakkiah-lui-indigenous-literature-white-criticism
21 Pattie Lees with Adam C. Lees, A Question of Colour: My journey to belonging, Magabala Books, Broome, 2020, p. 151
22 Lees, p. 130
23 Wesley Enoch and Deborah Mailman, The 7 Stages of Grieving: 25th anniversary edition, Playlab, Brisbane, 2019, pp. 47–9. I saw the most recent production directed by Shari Sebbens, starring Elaine Crombie, at the Sydney Theatre Company in May 2021, that included an epilogue, ‘The 7 Actions of Healing’, that lists actions people can take. sydneytheatre.com.au/the-7-actions-of-healing
24 ABS.Stat, ‘Migration, Australia’, Australian Bureau of Statistics, 23 April 2021, abs.gov.au/statistics/people/population/migration-australia/latest-release
25 Tim Soutphommasane, ‘Multiculturalism and the reinvention of Australian national identity’, keynote address to the International Australian Studies Association Biennial Conference, 10 February 2021
26 Australian Bureau of Statistics, ‘30% of Australia’s population born overseas’, media release, 23 April 2021, abs.gov.au/media-centre/media-releases/30-australias-population-born-overseas
27 Amanda Shendruk, ‘Are you even trying to stop racism if you don’t collect data on race?’, Quartz, 9 July 2021, qz.com/2029525/the-20-countries-that-dont-collect-racial-and-ethnic-census-data
28 Tim Soutphommasane, ‘Multiculturalism is a strength’ in Upturn: A better normal after COVID-19, edited by Tanya Plibersek, NewSouth Publishing, Sydney, 2020, p. 171
29 Australian Centre on China in the World, ‘Five Eyes, one tongue and hard of hearing – Australia and Asia in China’s century’, YouTube, 3 December 2020, youtu.be/s-sJzi7gtrI
30 Aileen Moreton-Robinson, Talkin’ Up to the White Woman: Indigenous women and feminism, 20th anniversary edition, University of Queensland Press, St Lucia, Qld, 2020
31 Aileen Moreton-Robinson, Introduction to Race and Society webinar series, produced by Alana Lentin and Zuleyka Zavallos, episode 2, ‘Indigenous sovereignty and responses to COVID-19’, 31 August 2020, youtu.be/o76f9BNEkvk
32 ‘Who’s on the team? Unpacking POC’ (podcast), It’s Not a Race, ABC Radio National, 30 November 2017, abc.net.au/radionational/programs/itsnotarace/unpacking-poc/9154136
33 Kate Bagnall and Tim Sherratt, The Real Face of White Australia, realfaceofwhiteaustralia.net/faces/?rsort=2
34 Alexander T. Yarwood, ‘The dictation test – historical survey’, The Australian Quarterly, volume 30, number 2, June 1958, pp. 19–29, jstor.org/stable/20694657
35 Henry Reynolds, Unnecessary Wars, NewSouth Publishing, Sydney, 2016
36 Kel Robertson with Jessie Hohman and Iain Stewart, ‘Dictating to one of “us”: The migration of Mrs Freer’, Macquarie Law Journal, volume 5, 2005, p. 243, researchers.mq.edu.au/en/publications/dictating-to-one-of-us-the-migration-of-mrs-freer
37 Robin Jeffrey quoted in Kama Maclean, British India, White Australia: Overseas Indians, intercolonial relations and the empire, UNSW Press, Sydney, 2020, p. 6
38 Jayne Persian, ‘“Chifley liked them blond”: DP immigrants for Australia’, History Australia, volume 12, number 2, 2015, p. 94, doi.org/10.1080/14490854.2015.11668571
39 Liz Allen, ‘Understanding ethnicity in contemporary Australia using the census’, Australian Population Studies, volume 5, issue 1, 2021, pp. 56–64
40 Jason Wilson, ‘“It’s OK to be white” is not a joke, it’s careless politicians helping the far right’, The Guardian, 16 October 2018, theguardian.com/commentisfree/2018/oct/16/its-ok-to-be-white-is-not-a-joke-its-careless-politicians-helping-the-far-right
41 ‘Australia’s security environment and outlook: Terrorism in Australia’, Australian Security Intelligence Organisation, 2019–20 annual report, asio.gov.au/australias-security-environment-and-outlook.html
42 Andrew Greene, ‘ASIO boss Mike Burgess says agency is ditching “Islamic” and “right-wing” tags, will now refer to “religious” or “ideological” violence’, ABC News, 17 March 2021, abc.net.au/news/2021-03-17/asio-director-intelligence-language-change-islamic-extremism/13256828
43 Shakira Hussein, ‘Christchurch and the threat of right-wing extremism’, Saturday Paper, 14–20 March 2020
44 ‘Australia’s responsibility for the Christchurch massacre’ (podcast), 7 am, Schwartz Media, 16 December 2020, 7ampodcast.com.au/episodes/australias-responsibility-for-the-christchurch-massacre
45 Shakira Hussein, ‘Christchurch massacre: An Australian crime’, Saturday Paper, 12–18 December 2020, thesaturdaypaper.com.au/opinion/topic/2020/12/12/christchurch-massacre-australian-crime/160769160010862
46 Ko tō tātou kāinga tēnei/Report of the Royal Commission of Inquiry into the terrorist attack on Christchurch masjidain on 15 March 2019, volume 1, 26 November 2020, chchroyalinquiry.cwp.govt.nz/assets/Report-Volumes-and-Parts/Ko-to-tatou-kainga-tenei-Volume-1-v2.pdf
47 Randa Abdel-Fattah, Coming of Age in the War on Terror, NewSouth Publishing, Sydney, 2021
48 Anne Aly, ‘Christchurch reminds us of the cost of inaction’, Sydney Morning Herald, 14 March 2020, smh.com.au/world/oceania/christchurch-reminds-us-of-the-cost-of-inaction-20200312-p549g3.html
49 Ben Smee and Mark Townsend, ‘Grafton was known for jacaranda blossom but mosque shootings have changed that’, The Guardian, 17 March 2019, theguardian.com/world/2019/mar/16/grafton-australia-christchurch-killer-home-town
50 Ko tō tātou kāinga tēnei/Report of the Royal Commission of Inquiry into the terrorist attack on Christchurch masjidain on 15 March 2019, volume 2, 26 November 2020, chchroyalinquiry.cwp.govt.nz/assets/Report-Volumes-and-Parts/Ko-to-tatou-kainga-tenei-Volume-2.pdf
51 Enoch and Mailman, p. 5
5: Just had something cut out
1 Donald Horne, The Education of Young Donald Trilogy, NewSouth Publishing, Sydney, 2021, p. 11
2 Australian Institute of Health and Welfare, ‘Skin cancer in Australia’, Cat. no. CAN 96, AIHW, Canberra, 2016, aihw.gov.au/getmedia/0368fb8b-10ef-4631-aa14-cb6d55043e4b/18197.pdf.aspx
3 Top Doctors UK, ‘What does the sun do to my skin?’, YouTube, 9 May 2018, youtu.be/JyGfkO4vKlM
4 Dr Chris Kearney, ‘Basal cell carcinoma (BCC)’, A–Z of Skin, Australasian College of Dermatologists, 2019, dermcoll.edu.au/atoz/basal-cell-carcinoma-bcc
5 Australian Institute of Health and Welfare, ‘About Australian Cancer Database’, AIHW, 3 September 2021, aihw.gov.au/about-our-data/our-data-collections/australian-cancer-database/about-australian-cancer-database
6 Australian Institute of Health and Welfare, ‘Skin cancer in Australia’
7 Australian Institute of Health and Welfare, ‘Skin cancer in Australia’
8 ‘The facts about melanoma’, Melanoma Patients Australia, melanomapatients.org.au/about-melanoma/melanoma-facts
9 Australian Centre of Excellence in Melanoma Imaging and Diagnosis, ‘Building research capacity towards early detection of melanoma’, Universtity of Queensland, Australia, acemid.centre.uq.edu.au
10 Shaun Wilson (director), ‘Episode 5’ (television program), Rosehaven (season 4, episode 5), original broadcast date 5 August 2020
11 ‘Immunotherapy’, Melanoma Institute Australia, melanoma.org.au/understanding-melanoma/treatment-options/immunotherapy
6: ‘Slip! Slop! Slap!’ vs ‘Bronzez vite et sans danger’
1 @NayukaGorrie on Twitter, 16 August 2019, twitter.com/NayukaGorrie/status/1162142351151681536. Reproduced with the permission of the author
2 Healthcare Network, ‘It took my patient six years to see me – a dermatologist’, Views from the NHS frontline, The Guardian, 19 October 2015, theguardian.com/healthcare-network/views-from-the-nhs-frontline/2015/oct/19/patient-six-years-see-dermatologist-nhs-crisis
3 ‘Melanoma skin cancer statistics’, Cancer Research UK, cancerresearchuk.org/health-professional/cancer-statistics/statistics-by-cancer-type/melanoma-skin-cancer
4 Philippa H. Youl, Peter D. Baade, Monika Janda, Christopher B. Del Mar, David C. Whiteman and Joanne F. Aitken, ‘Diagnosing skin cancer in primary care: How do mainstream general practitioners compare with primary care skin cancer clinic doctors?’, Medical Journal of Australia, volume 187, number 4, 2007, pp. 215–20, doi.org/10.5694/j.1326-5377.2007.tb01202.x; Hue Tran, Keng Chen, Adrian C. Lim, James Jabbour and Stephen Shumack, ‘Assessing diagnostic skill in dermatology: A comparison between general practitioners and dermatologists’, Australasian Journal of Dermatology, volume 46, number 4, 2005, pp. 230–4, doi.org/10.1111/j.1440-0960.2005.00189.x
5 Australian Institute of Health and Welfare, ‘Cancer data in Australia’, web report, AIHW, 8 June 2021, aihw.gov.au/reports/cancer/cancer-data-in-australia/contents/cancer-data-commentaries/risk-of-melanoma
6 Cathy Keys, ‘Shifting priorities of shade and northern Australian architecture: Colonial settlement prior to the 1920s’, ABE Journal: Architecture Beyond Europe, volume 17, 2020, doi.org/10.4000/abe.8008
7 Yangmyung Ma and Jinah Yoo, ‘History of sunscreen: An updated view’, Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, volume 20, number 4, 2021, onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.1111/jocd.14004
8 Terry Slevin, ‘Explainer: How does sunscreen work, what is SPF and can I still tan with it on?’, The Conversation, 8 January 2018, theconversation.com/explainer-how-does-sunscreen-work-what-is-spf-and-can-i-still-tan-with-it-on-88869
9 Lena Lenček and Gideon Bosker, The Beach: The history of paradise on earth, Viking, New York, 1998, p. 215
10 Vanessa Ngan et al., ‘Topical sunscreen agents’, DermNet NZ, last updated September 2020, dermnetnz.org/topics/topical-sunscreen-agents
11 George Zaidan, ‘Wait, what’s the deal with sunscreen? Does it work or not?’, Wired, 18 April 2020, wired.com/story/whats-deal-with-sunscreen-does-it-work-or-not. See also George Zaidan, Ingredients: The strange chemistry of what we put in us and on us, Dutton, New York, 2020. Dr Michelle Wong of Lab Muffin Beauty Science has a detailed and accessible video explainer: Lab Muffin Beauty Science, ‘How do sunscreens work? The science’, YouTube, 10 January 2021, youtu.be/AfWG6avOR_E
12 Teresa Ooi, ‘Sunscreen maker eyes world markets’, Weekend Australian, 2 January 2010, p. 37
13 Rupert Cole, ‘The story of sun cream’, Science Museum, 16 July 2018, blog.sciencemuseum.org.uk/the-story-of-sun-cream
14 ‘Our heritage’, Piz Buin, pizbuin.com/en/our-heritage
15 Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, ‘2019 skin cancer prevention progress report’, US Department of Health and Human Services, Washington, DC, 2019, cdc.gov/cancer/skin/pdf/SkinCancerPreventionProgressReport-2019-508.pdf
16 Carolyn J. Heckman, David B. Buller and Jerod L. Stapleton, ‘A call to action to eliminate indoor tanning: Focus on policy’, JAMA Dermatology, volume 157, number 7, 2021, pp. 767–8, doi.org/10.1001/jamadermatol.2021.0874
17 Antoinette Lattouf, ‘“It’s criminal, it should be stopped”: Melanoma survivor issues warning on illegal solariums’, ABC News, 6 March 2018, abc.net.au/news/2018-03-06/solariums-profiting-from-peoples-lives-cancer-patient-says/9376258
18 Liverpool City Council (UK), ‘The Look to Die For?’, Liverpool Express, 31 July 2013, liverpoolexpress.co.uk/the-look-to-die-for
19 ‘Tanning teens still seek the sun’, Cancer Council (Australia), 18 November 2018, cancer.org.au/media-releases/2018/tanning-teens-still-seek-the-sun
7: Itchy and scratchy: Eczema, psoriasis, acne, vitiligo
1 Blake Gopnik, Warhol: A life as art, Allen Lane, London, 2020, p. 33
2 Monty Lyman, The Remarkable Life of the Skin: An intimate journey across our surface, Bantam Press, London, 2019, p. 9
3 Charlotte L. Thomas and Pablo Fernández–Peñas, ‘The microbiome and atopic eczema: More than skin deep’, Australian Journal of Dermatology, volume 58, number 1, 2017, pp. 18–24, doi.org/10.1111/ajd.12435
4 Shelley F. Diamond, S. Kay Toombs and Arthur W. Frank, ‘Case story: Lifelong effects of chronic atopic eczema’, Making the Rounds in Health, Faith and Ethics, volume 2, 23 September 1996, pp. 1–4, researchgate.net/profile/Arthur-Frank-2/publication/11696657_Case_story_lifelong_effects_of_chronic_atopic_eczema/links/54d545930cf25013d02ada74/Case-story-lifelong-effects-of-chronic-atopic-eczema.pdf
5 The Holy Bible (King James Version), Job 2:3–10
6 Dennis Potter, The Singing Detective, Faber and Faber, London and Boston, 1986, p. 29
7 Potter, p. 29
8 ‘About the GPA’, Global Psoriasis Atlas, globalpsoriasisatlas.org/en/the-gpa/about-the-gpa
9 James Hamblin, Clean: The new science of skin and the beauty of doing less, Bodley Head, London, 2020, p. 14
10 John Updike, ‘From the Journal of a Leper’, New Yorker, 19 July 1976, p. 28, newyorker.com/magazine/1976/07/19/from-the-journal-of-a-leper
11 David Foster Wallace, ‘John Updike, champion literary phallocrat, drops one; is this finally the end for magnificent narcissists?’, Observer, 13 October 1997, observer.com/1997/10/john-updike-champion-literary-phallocrat-drops-one-is-this-finally-the-end-for-magnificent-narcissists
12 Patricia Lockwood, ‘Malfunctioning Sex Robot’, London Review of Books, volume 41, number 19, 10 October 2019, lrb.co.uk/the-paper/v41/n19/patricia-lockwood/malfunctioning-sex-robot
13 John Updike, Self-Consciousness: Memoirs, Alfred A. Knopf, New York, 1989, p. 42
14 Updike, Self-Consciousness, p. 43
15 Updike, Self-Consciousness, p. 48
16 Updike, Self-Consciousness, p. 48
17 Updike, Self-Consciousness, p. 42
18 Updike, Self-Consciousness, p. 44
19 Updike, Self-Consciousness, p. 45
20 Updike, Self-Consciousness, p. 76
21 Melissa Lam, ‘“SKIN” – student short film about acne (2018)’, YouTube, 21 February 2018, youtu.be/PWuxK3F8hoc
22 ‘Saoirse Ronan: Revealing my spots in Lady Bird represents teenagers as they are’, The Independent, 13 February 2018, independent.ie/entertainment/movies/movie-news/saoirse-ronan-revealing-my-spots-in-lady-bird-represents-teenagers-as-they-are-36597714.html
23 Juno Dawson, ‘Spot the difference: Why don’t teenage book characters have acne?’, The Guardian, 26 February 2016, theguardian.com/childrens-books-site/2016/feb/25/spot-the-difference-why-dont-teenage-book-characters-have-acne
24 Chelsea Burns, ‘Exactly how Mindy Kaling, 41, keeps her adult acne away’, Women’s Health, 11 September 2020, womenshealthmag.com/beauty/a33807765/mindy-kaling-skincare
25 Christina Patterson, ‘Skin’, in Naomi Alderman, Beneath the Skin: Great writers on the body, Profile Books, London, 2018, pp. 24, 26
26 Christina Patterson, The Art of Not Falling Apart, Atlantic Books, London, 2018, p. 103
27 Patterson, The Art of Not Falling Apart, p. 101
28 Patterson, The Art of Not Falling Apart, p. 102
29 Patterson, The Art of Not Falling Apart, p. 110
30 Deanna Pai, ‘The St. Ives apricot scrub lawsuit: Everything you need to know’, Glamour, 15 May 2019, glamour.com/story/st-ives-apricot-scrub-lawsuit
31 Sandra Lee, Put Your Best Face Forward: The ultimate guide to skincare from acne to anti-aging, Dey Street, an imprint of William Morrow, New York, 2018, p. 3
32 Lee, p. 11
33 Lee, p. 4
34 Lee, p. 146
35 Iva Dixit, ‘My life with Retin-A’, New Yorker, 29 October 2017, newyorker.com/culture/personal-history/my-life-with-retin-a
36 Lee, p. 156
37 K. Bhate and H. C. Williams, ‘Epidemiology of acne vulgaris’, British Journal of Dermatology, volume 168, number 3, 2013, pp. 474–85, doi.org/10.1111/bjd.12149
38 Lee, p. 145
39 Alexandra Ilyashov, ‘Winnie Harlow: “[Vitiligo] is not the only thing about me”’, The Daily Front Row, 28 December 2020, fashionweekdaily.com/winnie-harlow-achievements-vitiligo-victorias-secret
40 Dr Khaled Ezzedine, Viktoria Eleftheriadou, Maxine Whitton and Nanja van Geel, ‘Vitiligo’, The Lancet, volume 386, issue 9988, 2015, pp. 74–84, doi.org/10.1016/S0140-6736(14)60763-7
41 Lyman, pp. 159–60
42 Jane E. Brody, ‘For vitiligo patients, new treatments offer hope’, New York Times, 24 June 2019, nytimes.com/2019/06/24/well/live/for-vitiligo-patients-new-treatments-offer-hope.html
43 Ezzedine et al.
44 TED, ‘How I help people understand vitiligo | Lee Thomas’, YouTube, 26 September 2019, youtu.be/byAogVoMViE
8: Our microbes, our selves
1 A/Prof Rosemary Nixon AM, ‘Patch testing: What I have learnt over the years’, webinar, presented for The Skin Hospital, 19 August 2020, skinhospital.edu.au/events/patch-testing-rosemary-nixon
2 Nadia Benmoussa, John-David Rebibo, Patrick Conan and Philippe Charlier, ‘Chimney-sweeps’ cancer – early proof of environmentally driven tumourigenicity’, Lancet Oncology, volume 20, issue 3, 2019, p. 338, doi.org/10.1016/S1470-2045(19)30106-8
3 I first read this quote in Brooke Jarvis’s review of Hamblin’s and Lyman’s books. Then I saw it everywhere. Brooke Jarvis, ‘Rethinking the science of skin’, New Yorker, 27 July 2020, newyorker.com/magazine/2020/08/03/rethinking-the-science-of-skin
4 Peter Ward, The Clean Body: A modern history, McGill-Queens University Press, Montreal; Kingston, 2019, pp. 19, 39
5 Ward, p. 38
6 Claudia Benthien, Skin: On the cultural border between self and the world, translated by Thomas Dunlap, Columbia University Press, New York; Chichester, 2002, p. 42
7 Siddhartha Mukherjee, The Emperor of All Maladies: A biography of cancer, Fourth Estate, London, 2011, p. 48
8 Benthien, p. 62
9 Ward, p. 22
10 Daniel M. Musher, ‘The medical views of Dr Tobias Smollett (1721–1771)’, Bulletin of the History of Medicine, volume 41, number 5, 1967, pp. 455–62, jstor.org/stable/44449884
11 Tobias Smollett, quote from The Expedition of Humphry Clinker in ‘Germ Bath’, Lapham’s Quarterly, laphamsquarterly.org/water/germ-bath
12 James Hamblin, Clean: The new science of skin and the beauty of doing less, Bodley Head, London, 2020, p. 6
13 Hamblin, p. 198
14 Monty Lyman, The Remarkable Life of the Skin: An intimate journey across our surface, Bantam Press, London, 2019, p. 44
15 Michael Eisenstein, ‘The skin microbiome and its relationship with the human body explained’, Nature, 16 December 2020, nature.com/articles/d41586-020-03524-6
16 Lyman, p. 29
17 Bruce Agnew, ‘The skin microbiome: More than skin deep’, NIH National Human Genome Research Institute, 20 November 2014, genome.gov/news/news-release/The-skin-microbiome-More-than-skin-deep
18 ‘Summer Lecture Series I: Human Microbiome Project – A personal and professional journey through kingdoms (bacteria, fungi, viruses) and genomes’, NIH, 2 July 2019, videocast.nih.gov/watch=31908
19 Hamblin, p. 204
20 Holger Brügemann, Llanos Selar-Vidal, Harald P. M. Gollnick and Rolf Lood, ‘A Janus-faced bacterium: Host-beneficial and -detrimental roles of Cutibacterium acnes’, Frontiers in Microbiology, 31 May 2021, doi.org/10.3389/fmicb.2021.673845
21 Ferris Jabr, ‘Why soap works’, New York Times, 13 March 2020, nytimes.com/2020/03/13/health/soap-coronavirus-handwashing-germs.html
22 Fiona Harvey, ‘Antibiotic resistance as big a threat as climate change’, The Guardian, 29 April 2019, theguardian.com/society/2019/apr/29/antibiotic-resistance-as-big-threat-climate-change-chief-medic-sally-davies
23 Jarvis, ‘Rethinking the science of skin’
24 Lyman, p. 39
25 Hamblin, p. 212
26 Film at Lincoln Center, ‘Todd Haynes Q&A | Safe’, YouTube, 26 November 2015, youtu.be/7BOtUz5ChKw
27 David Roth, ‘Todd Haynes’s masterpiece “Safe” is now a tale of two plagues’, New Yorker, 28 March 2020, newyorker.com/culture/culture-desk/todd-hayness-masterpiece-safe-is-now-a-tale-of-two-plagues
28 Charles E. Rosenberg, ‘Foreword’ in Warwick Anderson and Ian R. Mackay, Intolerant Bodies: A short history of autoimmunity, Johns Hopkins University Press, Baltimore, 2014, p. xi
29 Hamblin, p. 141
30 Hamblin, p. 246
9: Skin hunger
1 Edith Wharton, The Age of Innocence, Penguin Books, London, 1993 (first published 1920), p. 58
2 Nina G. Jablonski, Skin: A natural history, University of California Press, Berkeley, 2006, p. 1
3 Steven Connor, The Book of Skin, Reaktion Books, London, 2004, p. 26
4 Claudia Benthien, Skin: On the cultural border between self and the world, translated by Thomas Dunlap, Columbia University Press, New York; Chichester, 2002, p. 7
5 David J. Linden, Touch: The science of hand heart and mind, Penguin Random House, London, 2015, chapter 1, p. 32/27
6 Jonathan Cole, Still Lives: Narratives of spinal cord injury, MIT Press, Cambridge, Mass., 2006, p. 122
7 Connor, p. 41
8 Monty Lyman, The Remarkable Life of the Skin: An intimate journey across our surface, Bantam Press, London, 2019, p. 120
9 Lyman, pp. 111–12
10 ‘The pandemic made the world realise the importance of human contact’, The Economist, 18 February 2021, economist.com/international/2021/02/20/the-pandemic-made-the-world-realise-the-importance-of-human-contact
11 Lyman, pp. 117–18
12 Oliver Wainwright, ‘This way for brain tingles: ASMR gets a shiver-inducing exhibition’, The Guardian, 1 April 2020, theguardian.com/artanddesign/2020/mar/31/this-way-for-a-braingasm-asmr-gets-a-tingly-exhibition
13 ‘The ASMRnswer’ (podcast), The Curious Cases of Rutherford & Fry (series 15), BBC Sounds, bbc.co.uk/sounds/play/m000fgky
14 Pamela K. Gilbert, Victorian Skin: Surface, self, history, Cornell University Press, Ithaca, 2019, pp. 183–4
15 Andrew Pulver, ‘BFI to refuse funding for films with facially-scarred villains’, The Guardian, 29 November 2018, theguardian.com/film/2018/nov/29/bfi-to-refuse-funding-for-films-with-facially-scarred-villains
16 Diane Ackerman, A Natural History of the Senses, Viking, New York, 1991, p. 96
17 Sirin Kale, ‘Skin hunger helps explain your desperate longing for human touch’, Wired, 29 April 2020, wired.co.uk/article/skin-hunger-coronavirus-human-touch
18 ‘The pandemic made the world realise the importance of human contact’
19 Courtney Brogle, ‘Heartbreaking photo shows “hand” COVID nurse created for lonely patients’, Newsweek, 4 September 2021, newsweek.com/heartbreaking-photo-shows-hand-covid-nurse-created-lonely-patients-1582524
20 Sarah Cox, ‘Global study links positivity about touch to lower loneliness’, Goldsmiths, University of London, 6 October 2020, gold.ac.uk/news/the-touch-test-results
21 J. Oliver Conroy, ‘Esther Perel on life after Covid: “People will want to reconnect with eros”’, The Guardian, 6 April 2021, theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2021/apr/06/esther-perel-interview-pandemic-relationships-work-life-balance
22 Lena Lenček and Gideon Bosker, The Beach: The history of paradise on earth, Viking, New York, 1998, p. 233
23 Ethel Turner, Seven Little Australians, Ward Lock Limited, London, 1978 (first published 1894), p. 7
24 Frank Bongiorno, The Sex Lives of Australians, electronic edition, Black Inc., Collingwood, Vic., 2013, chapter 6, p. 15/42
25 Caroline Ford, ‘Battles over bodies on the beach: The cultural origins of the suntan’, History, number 146, December 2020, pp. 2–5, rahs.org.au/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/History-no.146-Dec-2020.pdf
26 Phil Abraham (director), ‘Public Relations’ (television program), Mad Men (season 4, episode 1), original broadcast date 25 July 2010
27 Tony Bartlett, ‘Suntan man to become a true bronzed Aussie’, Brisbane Times, 8 April 2010, brisbanetimes.com.au/national/queensland/suntan-man-to-become-a-true-bronzed-aussie-20100408-rttx.html
28 Lenček and Bosker, p. 215
29 Robert Drewe (ed.), The Penguin Book of the Beach, Penguin, Ringwood, Vic., 2001, p. 6
30 Jeanette Winterson, Written on the Body, Jonathan Cape, London, 1992, pp. 15, 20, 163
31 Peter Carey, Illywhacker, University of Queensland Press, St Lucia, Qld, 1985, p. 322
32 Michael Ondaatje, The English Patient, Bloomsbury, London, 1992, electronic edition 2017, I. ‘In the villa’, p. 3/24
33 Ondaatje, II In near ruins, p. 28/43
34 Ondaatje, p. 10/24
35 Ondaatje, p. 2/24
10: Know your product
1 @rokwon on Twitter, 28 September 2019, twitter.com/rokwon/status/1177660409538465793. Reproduced with the permission of the author
2 Bee Shapiro, Skin Deep: Women on skin care, makeup and looking their best, Abrams, New York, 2017, pp. 238–9
3 Shapiro, p. 189
4 Stephanie Darling, Secrets of a Beauty Queen: How to look good & have fun doing it, Viking, Docklands, Vic., 2017, pp. 228–43
5 Emily Gerstell, Sophie Marchessou, Jennifer Schmidt and Emma Spagnuolo, ‘How COVID-19 is changing the world of beauty’, McKinsey & Company, 5 May 2020, mckinsey.com/industries/consumer-packaged-goods/our-insights/how-covid-19-is-changing-the-world-of-beauty
6 Geoffrey Jones, Beauty Imagined: A history of the global beauty industry, Oxford University Press, Oxford, 2010, p. 1
7 Kayleen Schaefer, ‘What you don’t know about the rise of Korean beauty’, The Cut, 9 September 2015, thecut.com/2015/09/korean-beauty-and-the-government.html
8 Chloe Metzger and Chelsea Hall, ‘Brown girl–approved beauty products for all skin tones’, Marie Claire, 12 August 2020, marieclaire.com/beauty/makeup/g4871/best-makeup-dark-skin
9 Nadra Nittle, ‘Before Fenty: Over 100 years of black makeup brands’, Racked, 23 January 2018, racked.com/2018/1/23/16901594/black-makeup-brands-history
10 Andy Martin, ‘“The trick is looking as if you are not wearing makeup”: EX1 cosmetics is solving a beauty diversity problem’, The Independent, 10 March 2021, independent.co.uk/independentpremium/business/farah-naz-ex1-cosmetics-beauty-diversity-b1812519.html
11 Francesca Regalado, ‘Asia’s skin whitening market reckons with global antiracist push’, Nikkei Asia, 1 July 2020, asia.nikkei.com/Business/Business-trends/Asia-s-skin-whitening-market-reckons-with-global-antiracist-push
12 Raj Kaur Bilkhu, ‘Shaadi.com: Dating site removes skin tone filter after backlash’, BBC News, 23 June 2020, bbc.com/news/newsbeat-53146969
13 Jones, p. 62
14 M. Ridder, ‘L’Oréal’s advertising and promotion expenses worldwide from 2007 to 2020’, Statista, 22 July 2021, statista.com/statistics/286507/loreal-advertising-spending-worldwide
15 Rebecca Stewart, ‘Estée Lauder now spends a huge portion of its marketing budget on influencers’, The Drum, 20 August 2019, thedrum.com/news/2019/08/20/est-e-lauder-now-spends-huge-portion-its-marketing-budget-influencers
16 ‘Skincare Pt 1’ (podcast), Poog, iHeartMedia, 24 November 2020
17 Josh Greenblatt, ‘Kate Berlant and Jacqueline Novak on their podcast, Poog, and the meaning of wellness’, Vogue, 19 February 2021, vogue.com/article/kate-berlant-jacqueline-novak-podcast-poog-meaning-of-wellness
18 Rachel Syme, ‘Feeling better now?’, New Yorker, 22 March 2021, p. 81, newyorker.com/magazine/2021/03/29/puzzling-through-our-eternal-quest-for-wellness
19 S. Heijin Lee, ‘Beauty between empires: Global feminisms, plastic surgeries, and the trouble with self-esteem’, in Fashion and Beauty in the Time of Asia, edited by S. Heijin Lee, Christina H. Moon and Thuy Linh Nguyen Tu, New York University Press, New York, 2019, p. 76
20 Frances Cha, If I Had Your Face, Viking, London, 2020
21 Brigid Delaney, Wellmania: Misadventures in the search for wellness, Nero, Carlton, Vic., 2017, p. 177
22 Amanda Mull, ‘The best skin-care trick is being rich’, The Atlantic, 4 January 2019, theatlantic.com/health/archive/2019/01/skin-care-secret-wealth/579337
23 Zadie Smith, ‘Exclusive: June 2018 cover star Zadie Smith weighs in on the great age debate’, Elle, 31 May 2018, elle.in/elle-old-site/article/zadie-smith-swing-time-interview-elle-cover
24 Michael Taussig, Beauty and the Beast, University of Chicago Press, Chicago; London 2012
25 Taussig, p. 44
26 Jia Tolentino, ‘The age of Instagram face’, New Yorker, 12 December 2019, newyorker.com/culture/decade-in-review/the-age-of-instagram-face
27 Shapiro, p. 173
28 Joshua Choo and Gerald O’Daniel, ‘The uncanny valley: Implications for facial plastic surgery’, Aesthetic Surgery Journal, volume 36, issue 1, 2016, pp. NP28–9, doi.org/10.1093/asj/sjv179
29 Susan Johnson, On Beauty, Melbourne University Press, Carlton, Vic., 2009
30 John Berger, Ways of Seeing, Penguin Books, London, 1972, p. 7
11: Inkside out
1 Meg Mason, Sorrow and Bliss, HarperCollins Publishers, Sydney, 2020, pp. 267–8
2 Fiona McGregor, Indelible Ink, Scribe, Melbourne, 2010, p. 21
3 Frances Perraudin, ‘How tattoos went from subculture to pop culture’, The Guardian, 26 October 2018, theguardian.com/fashion/2018/oct/26/how-tattoos-went-from-subculture-to-pop-culture
4 TEDx Talks, ‘Tattoos: Women’s revolutionary aesthetic | Christine Braunberger | TEDxOnondagaCommunityCollege’, YouTube, 15 January 2016, youtu.be/aqnOU-nRW2U
5 Christine Braunberger, ‘Revolting bodies: The monster beauty of tattooed women’, NWSA Journal, volume 12, number 2, 2000, pp. 1–23, jstor.org/stable/4316734
6 Lesley Mckenzie, ‘Celebrity tattoo artist Brian Woo, a.k.a. Dr. Woo, opens a secret studio inside a famous Hollywood hotel’, Los Angeles Times, 14 April 2017, latimes.com/fashion/la-ig-brian-woo-aka-doctor-woo-20170414-htmlstory.html
7 Tom Cherones (director), ‘The Cheever Letters’ (television program), Seinfeld (season 4, episode 8), original broadcast date 28 October 1992
8 Monty Lyman, The Remarkable Life of the Skin: An intimate journey across our surface, Bantam Press, London, 2019, pp. 180–1
9 Ari Shapiro, ‘The American origins of the not-so-traditional Celtic knot tattoo’, NPR, 25 November 2014, npr.org/sections/parallels/2014/11/25/366584255/the-american-origins-of-the-not-so-traditional-celtic-knot-tattoo
10 ‘The Headhunters’ (podcast), Stuff the British Stole (episode 4), ABC Radio National, 13 December 2020, abc.net.au/radionational/programs/stuff-the-british-stole/the-headhunters/12868026
11 Institute of Cultural Inquiry, ‘We Are All HIV+’, Laboratory, 1 December 2018, laboratory.culturalinquiry.org/aids/we-are-all-hiv
12 Kylie Maslen, Show Me Where It Hurts: Living with invisible illness, Text, Melbourne, 2020, pp. 156, 180
13 Laylah Amatullah Barrayn, ‘“It’s something I wanted to carry with me”: Marking a movement in ink’, New York Times, 13 June 2020, nytimes.com/2020/06/13/us/george-floyd-protests-tattoos.html
14 David Crowe, ‘“Eat my fear”: Australian of the Year Grace Tame on surviving child sex abuse’, Sydney Morning Herald, 25 January 2021, smh.com.au/politics/federal/eat-my-fear-australian-of-year-grace-tame-on-surviving-child-sex-abuse-20210125-p56wn8.html
15 ‘Yarn with Jane Harrison: YIRRAMBOI Blak Critic’, Yirramboi, City of Melbourne, 29 April 2017, yirramboi.com.au/2017/04/yarn-jane-harrison-yirramboi-blak-critic
16 Alexis Cox, ‘Vets reveal the stories in their tattoos in new exhibit “War Ink”’, PBS News Hour, 11 November 2014, pbs.org/newshour/arts/war-ink-virtual-exhibit-tells-veterans-stories-tattoo-art
17 ‘Tattoos in the Australian military: Ink in the Lines’, Australian War Memorial, awm.gov.au/visit/exhibitions/ink-in-the-lines
18 ‘Ink in the Lines: videos’, Australian War Memorial, awm.gov.au/visit/exhibitions/ink-in-the-lines/videos
19 Sally Sara, ‘Returning to Rwanda: Remembering Australia’s “forgotten” peacekeepers’, ABC News, 1 May 2018, abc.net.au/news/2018-05-01/remembering-australias-forgotten-rwanda-peacekeepers/9710094
12: Skin irony
1 Tony Kushner, Angels in America: A gay fantasia on national themes, revised edition, Part One: Millennium Approaches, Act I, Scene 3, Theatre Communications Group, New York, 2013, p. 17
2 Kushner, Act 1, Scene 4, p. 21
3 Monty Lyman, The Remarkable Life of the Skin: An intimate journey across our surface, Bantam Press, London, 2019, p. 45
4 Carly Findlay, Say Hello, HarperCollins Publishers, Sydney, 2019
5 @DrStevenTChen on Twitter, 2 May 2021, twitter.com/DrStevenTChen/status/1388683605895880706. Reproduced with the permission of the author
6 Robert Reynolds, Shirleene Robinson and Paul Sendziuk, In the Eye of the Storm: Volunteers and Australia’s response to the HIV/AIDS crisis, UNSW Press, Sydney, 2021, p. 21
7 Colleen Murphy, ‘8 types of rashes that can be a sign of COVID-19’, Health, 18 March 2021, health.com/condition/infectious-diseases/coronavirus/types-of-rashes-covid-19
8 Lee Kofman, Imperfect: How our bodies shape the people we become, Affirm Press, South Melbourne, 2019, p. 51
9 Kofman, p. 7
10 Kofman, p. 304
11 Kofman, p. 167
12 Rebecca Onion, ‘A modern feminist classic changed my life. Was it actually garbage?’, Slate, 30 March 2021, slate.com/human-interest/2021/03/naomi-wolf-beauty-myth-feminism-conspiracy-theories.html
13 Tressie McMillan Cottom, Thick: And other essays, The New Press, New York, 2019, p. 44
14 McMillan Cottom, p. 60
15 Ezra Klein, ‘Your success probably didn’t come from merit alone’, transcript of interview with Tressie McMillan Cottom, New York Times, 13 April 2021, nytimes.com/2021/04/13/opinion/ezra-klein-podcast-tressie-mcmillan-cottom.html
16 McMillan Cottom, pp. 71–2
17 William Shakespeare, King Lear, Act II, Scene 4 in The Tragedy of King Lear, edited by Jay L. Halio, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 2005, p. 171
18 Lyman, p. 149
19 Lyman, p. 125
20 Siri Hustvedt, What I Loved, Sceptre, London, 2007, p. 339
21 Jessica DeFino, ‘This is your skin on stress’, New York Times, 8 December 2020, nytimes.com/2020/12/08/fashion/this-is-your-skin-on-stress.html
22 L. M. Montgomery, Anne of Green Gables, Angus & Robertson, Sydney, 1975 (first published 1908), p. 227
23 Pamela K. Gilbert, Victorian Skin: Surface, self, history, Cornell University Press, Ithaca, 2019, p. 65
24 Kate Townshend, ‘Why do people blush?’, The Atlantic, 1 July 2016, theatlantic.com/health/archive/2016/06/why-do-people-blush/489572
25 Gilbert, p. 93
26 Nina G. Jablonski, Skin: A natural history, University of California Press, Berkeley, 2006, electronic edition, chapter 8, ‘Emotions, sex and skin’, p. 5/10
27 Lowri Dowthwaite, ‘Men and women experience happiness differently – here’s why’, The Conversation, 21 November 2018, theconversation.com/men-and-women-experience-happiness-differently-heres-why-104507
28 Sara Robinson quoted in Rebecca Traister, Good and Mad: The revolutionary power of women’s anger, Simon & Schuster, New York, 2018, p. 241
29 Lyman, p. 155
30 @AlbertBrooks on Twitter, 16 September 2015, twitter.com/albertbrooks/status/644321586124730368
31 Sarah Jackson, Tactile Poetics: Touch and contemporary writing, Edinburgh University Press, Edinburgh, 2015
32 Kate Beckman and Hannah Malach, ‘15 things I wish I knew before I became a dermatologist’, Cosmopolitan, 11 February 2020, cosmopolitan.com/career/a45967/things-i-wish-i-knew-before-i-became-a-dermatologist
33 Atul Gawande, ‘The itch’, New Yorker, 30 June 2008, newyorker.com/magazine/2008/06/30/the-itch; Leslie Jamison, The Empathy Exams: Essays, Granta, London, 2014, pp. 27–56
34 Melissa Fyfe, ‘Under their skin: The Morgellons mystery’, Sydney Morning Herald, 31 July 2015, smh.com.au/lifestyle/under-their-skin-the-morgellons-mystery-20150716-gidqmd.html
35 Jamison, p. 39
36 Reuters Staff, ‘Fact check: A video of a swab used for COVID-19 tests does not show that the material is “alive”’, Reuters, 21 January 2021, reuters.com/article/uk-factcheck-swabs-idUSKBN29P2Q5
37 TED, ‘The beauty of human skin in every colour | Angélica Dass’, YouTube, 20 April 2016, youtu.be/NiMgOklgeos
38 Andy Martin, ‘The fact is we take skin immensely seriously, but when and why did this start?’, The Independent, 14 May 2021, independent.co.uk/independentpremium/long-reads/evolution-skin-dna-history-judgment-b1841722.html