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TAOS

HISTORIC TAOS

The Taos we know today dates to 1540, when explorer Captain Hernando Alvarado arrived with the Coronado Expedition, in search of the legendary Seven Cities of Gold, and established a small village. They thought they had found the gold they were seeking because the surface of the Taos Pueblo glistening in the sun looked like it was covered in flecks of gold. In reality, the earth of which the pueblo was made has a high content of the mineral mica, which fooled the explorers for a short time.

The name Taos is attributed to Don Juan de Oñate’s secretary, Juan Belarde, who wrote in his journal, “this day after mass, we went on to the province of Taos which they also called Tayberon and others.” The word Tao was credited to the Picuris Indians, whose pueblo was twenty-four miles southeast of the Taos area. They would say this word as they pointed to the northeast, where they were known to have relatives.

By 1760, the village was known as Don Fernando de Taos by the Spanish inhabitants and eventually shortened to just Taos, which means “red willow” in the native Tewa language. Also, in this year, a raid of three thousand Comanche converged on Taos Pueblo with the intent of destroying the community. The warriors took fifty-six women and children as captives, one being Maria Rosa de Villalpando, a daughter of one of the settlers who had earlier promised the child in marriage to the tribal chief. Maria refused the marriage, which angered the tribe. Maria was to live many years with the Comanche before they traded her to the Pawnee, who sold her to a Frenchman from St. Louis. She is said to have lived a long life in St. Louis with many children.

Spanish settlers begin to move to the Taos area and set up homes near the pueblo for protection. By 1821, a huge influx of Mexican immigrants began to head north along the Santa Fe Trail to the Taos area after Mexican independence from Spain.

Padre Antonio Jose Martinez, newly ordained in 1826, was assigned to the Guadalupe Parish, which included Taos. He then met Christopher Carson—better known today as Kit Carson, who, at age sixteen, had run away from Missouri. The priest baptized Kit in 1842 and performed his wedding ceremony in 1843 to Josefa Jaramillo.

TAOS TODAY

Author D.H. Lawrence was quoted as saying, “You cannot come to Taos without feeling that here is one of the chosen spots on Earth.”

A quaint artist colony, one of the first established in the United States, Taos has played host to many famous artists, writers, filmmakers, musicians and actors. Art galleries—more than eighty to be exact—six world-class museums, charming restaurants and fine jewelry stores line the narrow streets that were once burro trails.

Taos also has an active music scene and features local New Mexico bands as well as acts from around the country. The city carries a certain bohemian feel, harkening back to the hippie commune days in the 1960s. Urban legend says a low-frequency hum can be heard outside of Taos proper. The source behind this hum has not been found. It is also reported that the entire valley has a magnetic quality to it—a vortex—that has succeeded in drawing so many different personalities to the region.

No doubt the picturesque landscape surrounding the village of a little more than sixty-five hundred souls has been an inspiration for those with an artistic spirit. The landmarks, setting and natural beauty of Taos have made it one of the most widely depicted towns on canvas of New Mexico. The striking views are accentuated by the adobe structures, the brightly painted windows and gates and the luscious vegetation that abounds. The clear mountain air at 6,967 feet seems to wash away troubles and concerns, leaving you relaxed and content.

The adobe Taos Pueblo rises from the clay high desert earth as one of the distinctive landmarks in Taos. Library of Congress.

Although a relatively small town, Taos offers its visitors an extensive range of activities for the entire family to enjoy. The high desert terrain is perfect for hiking and mountain biking, and you cannot beat the vistas. For the more adventurous, white-water rafting is available along the Rio Grande and Embudo Rivers.

For those of you who love to hit the slopes, a ski trip to the world-class Taos Ski Valley is a must. Kachina Peak towers over the valley at an elevation of 12,481 feet and provides 150 acres of advanced slopes as well as intermediate and beginner areas.

Famous for the historical Taos Pueblo, this diverse town relies heavily on its indigenous heritage. You will find evidence of this proud culture displayed throughout Taos. Visitors from all over the world come to Taos to experience the best-preserved, still-inhabited example of ancient Puebloan culture— now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The site helps to make Taos Pueblo one of the most visited areas in the state. Photography is not allowed at the pueblo, except by special permission, but representations of the structure can be found in many art forms.

This five-story adobe masterpiece is supported by pine log vigas with pine and aspen latillas on the ceilings, harvested from the nearby Carson National Forest. The outside is maintained every six months by applying a coat of mud, and the interiors are coated with the skim coat of thin washes of white earth. When the Taos Pueblo was first constructed, there were no doors or windows; entrance was gained from the roof by ladders for security purposes. The ladders were retracted when any signs of trouble were detected. Doors and windows were added in 1598, when the Spaniards took over the structure.

HACIENDA DEL SOL

As the former home of Mabel Dodge Luhan and her fourth husband, Tony Luhan, this stately property is nestled off the main Taos thoroughfare of Paseo del Pueblo, otherwise known as Highway 64, and could easily be missed if you blink. Comprised of three adobe buildings, the oldest erected in 1804, Hacienda Del Sol is situated on 1.2 acres of prime land that is also home to an estimated two thousand tulip bulbs and six hundred daffodils, which provide a fabulously colorful display when in full bloom.

Hacienda Del Sol, which means “house of the sun,” was used by the Luhans as a temporary residence and as guest accommodations for their many celebrity friends who needed privacy and peace away from the rest of the world. Authors Willa Cather, D.H. Lawrence and Frank Waters, and artist Georgia O’Keeffe are but a few of the honored guests who have graced this property with their presence.

Today, the hacienda offers twelve Southwest-appointed rooms, all featuring private baths. The Southwest décor in each room honors the traditions of the region by showcasing handwoven rugs and baskets; handcrafted antique furniture; unique, original artwork; and locally stitched quilts and comforters. Some also provide a traditional kiva fireplace, private steam showers and Jacuzzi tubs. When placing your reservation, be sure to request your preference.

Many three-hundred-year-old cottonwood trees surround Hacienda Del Sol’s beautifully maintained grounds, which makes a perfect venue for weddings, anniversaries and celebrations of all sorts, or just as a spot in the sun to relax and read a book as you enjoy the view of the sacred Taos Mountain. The golden willows and fragrant lilac bushes located in the courtyard exude romance, creating the perfect ambiance for a summer wedding. Later in the year, the dancing silver and gold leaves of the cottonwoods glisten like golden disks in the high desert autumn sun. Hacienda del Sol has been honored by being rated by USA Today as one of the ten most romantic inns in the country.

The grounds of the Hacienda Del Sol is a venue for weddings, anniversaries, birthdays or just to celebrate life, as Mabel Dodge Luhan surely did. Courtesy of the author.

You will be pampered by the delicious made-to-order breakfast and special blended coffee provided by the innkeeper in the historic Southwest-style dining room of the main house. Snacks are also available daily. A cozy fireplace in the dining room will be sure to stave off the chill of the northern New Mexico mornings and evenings.

The resort also features private Jacuzzis and steam rooms in four rooms, as well as traditional wood-burning kiva fireplaces in four of the rooms. One room is dog friendly, so be sure to ask about the “doggie rules” when making your reservation if you are traveling with your fur baby.

Mabel Dodge Luhan, a prominent character of Taos, came to the small artist community and established several houses for herself and her many famous friends. Although quite wealthy, Luhan lived simply, many times without electricity. She was known to give away her possessions regularly. Mabel’s influence can be seen throughout this Taos property.

GHOSTS

The presence of Mabel Dodge Luhan is felt in the main part of the hacienda, especially in her room. A quaint, arched, powder-blue door offers access to the socialite’s former abode. Original artworks adorn the wall, many given to Mabel as gifts from her circle of famous artist friends. Another presence felt at Hacienda Del Sol is that of Mabel’s fourth husband, Tony, a native of the Taos Pueblo. Both people were larger than life on earth, so it stands to reason that they would not be very willing to leave their beloved homes.

This tiny door leads to Mabel Dodge Luhan’s with original artwork, handwoven rugs and a kiva-style fireplace. Courtesy of the author.

A faint sound of drums can sometimes be heard solace, which is filled coming from Mabel’s room. As Tony was rarely without his drums, it may be safe to assume that he is serenading his wife in their cozy nest.

Owner Luellen Hertel has had guests tell her that when they put their key in the lock of Mabel’s room, it is politely pushed back out, creating a startling situation for a few moments.

Another incident that Hertel talks about happened to a guest from Wisconsin, who told her she had a lengthy conversation with a man sitting by the fireplace in the dining room. During this conversation, the man asked the woman to take down certain Native American artifacts hanging around the room at the time. When shown a photograph of Tony Luhan, the guest confirmed that this indeed was the gentleman to whom she was speaking.

HISTORIC TAOS INN

The former home and office of Dr. Thomas P. Martin and his wife, Helen, the Historic Taos Inn started out as a combination of several adobe houses encircling a plaza, which now serves as the beautiful hotel lobby. Many of these dwellings were built in the 1800s, and the impressive two-and-a-half-story cupola topped with stained glass that covers the fountain in the main lobby was once the community well.

Dr. Martin, who was the only physician in the county, moved to Taos in 1890 and purchased the largest home on the plaza for his residence. Today, this structure is the Doc Martin Restaurant. The kitchen of the restaurant was the former surgical area, and the first dining area to the left, past the front desk, functioned as the birthing room.

The Historic Taos Inn now boasts a total of forty-one rooms and three suites. The owners and management strive to provide positive and lasting memories for their guests. Their brochure states, “The Inn was founded on a rich legacy of excellence. Our guests are eager to sample the atmosphere of old Taos yet expect modern amenities. So our goal is to deliver just that. We aim to provide the finest personal services in warm, relaxed surroundings.”

As you step through the arched, bright-blue front door and past the thick adobe walls, you will feel transported into a different realm, one that once saw the following celebrities lounging in the lobby: actress Greta Garbo, Wild West show performer Pawnee Bill and famed author D.H. Lawrence, who was known to frequent many of the establishments in Taos as a close friend of Georgia O’Keeffe and socialite Mabel Dodge Luhan. It is reported that, more recently, actors Robert Redford and Jessica Lange have been seen enjoying one of the celebrated margaritas of the Adobe Bar in the Historic Taos Inn lobby.

Interior cupola in the lobby of Taos Inn was a water well for the entire village. It is incorporated as a striking feature. Courtesy of the author.

This tiny nook with street views just inside Doc Martin’s Restaurant was once a birthing room in the namesake’s clinic. Courtesy of the author.

The Adobe Bar, the place to see and be seen in Taos. The bar is frequented by many celebrities during their visits to New Mexico. Courtesy of the author.

Although a person who liked to keep to himself, Martin went out of his way to make sure his patients received the very best of care, no matter the terrain. For this reason, he was highly respected, becoming a celebrity in his own right.

For those of you who enjoy art history, this piece of trivia will be of interest: the world-renowned Taos Society of Artists—or the “Taos Six”—whose members were Joseph Henry Sharp, Ernest Blumenschein, Bert Phillips, Oscar E. Berninghaus, W. Herbert Dunton and E. Irving Couse, was started in the dining room of the Martin house in 1912. Phillips, Helen Martin’s brother-in-law, was one of the founding members of the society, along with Blumenschein. The society prompted the Martins to acquire the rest of the surrounding properties and rent them out to visiting artists and writers.

GHOSTS

Several spirits have claimed the Historic Taos Inn for their own. One of the most famous stems from a rather gruesome event that occurred in a tiny outbuilding that was absorbed by the inn. The murder of Arthur Manby caused quite a stir in the close-knit community and still is unsolved. Manby, known as the most hated man in Taos because of his swindling, lived just off the premises at the time of his death.

Manby was ruthless in getting what he wanted and would stop at nothing to accomplish his goals—even if this included extortions or murder. His ways caught up with him, and he himself was murdered on July 1, 1929, by decapitation. It was written that his head was so badly mangled by his two dogs in the home that he was not recognizable. This led to rumors that it was not actually Manby, that he had murdered someone else, so he could escape to Europe. Nothing was ever proven.

His room, number 109, is now part of the Historic Taos Inn property and is rented upon request. A figure of a man who fits Manby’s description is seen standing by the fireplace on occasion. In addition, cold temperatures are felt in the room by the housekeeping staff.

Doc Martin’s restaurant kitchen, which shares a common wall with Arthur Manby’s former home, sees some unusual activity from time to time in the form of pots, pans and kitchen appliances flying off the counters and landing on the floor without any human impetus. Reports of doors opening and closing on their own and lights flashing in the dining room are commonplace.

The door to Arthur Manby’s room is pleasant and shows none of the horrors that occurred inside in 1929. His presence is still felt here. Courtesy of the author.

The Historic Taos Inn’s hallway is said to be traveled by more than just hotel guests from time to time. A cowboy finds this enjoyable, too. Courtesy of the author.

Rumor has it that a cowboy, complete with jangling spurs, wanders the halls of the main lobby area and has made his presence known to a select, lucky few. He has also been known to visit certain rooms just to say hello.

Room 102 is known to have the faint smell of roses. The figure of a tall woman has been seen in the doorway to room 106. The woman appears to exit the room through a mirror that is left crooked after her departure. Room 206 had figures painted on the fireplace. After several guests left suddenly, the fireplace was repainted, and the problem seems to have been fixed.

The Adobe Bar allegedly has an apparition that likes to call out the staff ’s names when they are alone after closing.