English Cocker Spaniel

Adding an English Cocker Spaniel to your household means adding a new family member who will need your care each and every day. When your English Cocker Spaniel pup first comes home, you will start a routine with him so that, as he grows up, your dog will have a daily schedule just as you do. The aspects of your dog’s daily care will likewise become regular parts of your day, so you’ll both have a new schedule. Dogs learn by consistency and thrive on routine: regular times for meals, exercise, grooming and potty trips are just as important for your dog as they are to you! Your dog’s schedule will depend much on your family’s daily routine, but remember that you now have a new member of the family who is part of your day every day.

Feeding your dog the best diet is based on various factors, including age, activity level, overall condition and size of breed. When you visit the breeder, he will share with you his advice about the proper diet for your dog based on his experience with the breed and the foods with which he has had success. Likewise, your vet will be a helpful source of advice throughout the dog’s life and will aid you in planning a diet for optimal health.

There are four basic types of dog foods: fresh meat; dry food; semi-moist food and canned food. If offering fresh meat, many English Cocker owners find that their dogs love tripe. You can combine meat portions with dry food or with a semi-moist food. Dry foods are less expensive, more convenient and usually nutritionally balanced, but dogs may get bored with them. How would you feel if you had the same meal day after day, year after year? It certainly doesn’t do a dog any harm to surprise him with occasional healthy treats like a quarter of an apple, some carrots or lettuce.

You are what you eat—and this goes for dogs too! Feed your dog a nutritionally complete food and make sure that whoever is responsible for the dog’s food and water is reliable and consistent.

NOT HUNGRY?

No dog in his right mind would turn down his dinner, would he? If you notice that your dog has lost interest in his food, there could be any number of causes. Dental problems are a common cause of appetite loss, one that is often overlooked. If your dog has a toothache, a loose tooth or sore gums from infection, chances are it doesn’t feel so good to chew. Think about when you’ve had a toothache! If your dog does not approach the food bowl with his usual enthusiasm, look inside his mouth for signs of a problem. Whatever the cause, you’ll want to consult your vet so that your chow hound can get back to his happy, hungry self as soon as possible.

When you decided to buy your puppy, the breeder probably told you what you should feed the puppy once you bring him home. If he didn’t, ask him. This is important for two reasons; first, coming with you to live in totally new surroundings with so many new experiences is already a stressful experience for the puppy, and a continuation of his diet will help him adjust. Even then, his tummy may be upset the first couple of days, or he may even refuse to eat for a day or two, but don’t worry about that. As soon as he is settled down he will eat again, especially if he’s being fed the food he is used to. Second, the breeder most likely has a lot of experience in feeding mature dogs and puppies and keeping them in a peak condition, so it would be wise to listen to his advice. A good breeder will provide you with exact instructions of what to feed the puppy at each stage of his life and we strongly advise you to follow these instructions. Once your puppy is a mature one- or two-year-old, you can change his diet to what is more convenient for you (availability, costs, etc.), but with the growing puppy and youngster, stick to the breeder’s diet. And remember that if ten breeders are discussing the feeding of their dogs, you will hear ten different opinions, and all of them will be right!

Your puppy will need three or four meals a day until he is about nine months old, then you can cut back to two daily meals for the rest of his life. Two daily meals are better for a dog’s digestion than one large one, and if your dog loves his food, he probably would prefer to have a breakfast and a dinner anyway.

For the adult (meaning physically mature) dog, feeding properly is about maintenance, not growth. Again, correct weight is a concern. Your dog should appear fit and should have an evident “waist.” His ribs should not be protruding (a sign of being underweight), but they should be covered by only a slight layer of fat. Under normal circumstances, an adult dog can be maintained fairly easily with a high-quality, nutritionally complete adult-formula food.

DIET DON’TS

• Got milk? Don’t give it to your dog! Dogs cannot tolerate large quantities of cows’ milk, as they do not have the enzymes to digest lactose.

• You may have heard of dog owners who add raw eggs to their dogs’ food for a shiny coat or to make the food more palatable, but consumption of raw eggs too often can cause a deficiency of the vitamin biotin.

• Avoid feeding table scraps, as they will upset the balance of the dog’s complete food. Additionally, fatty or highly seasoned foods can cause upset canine stomachs.

• Do not offer raw meat to your dog. Raw meat can contain parasites; it also is high in fat.

• Vitamin A toxicity in dogs can be caused by too much raw liver, especially if the dog already gets enough vitamin A in his balanced diet, which should be the case.

• Bones like chicken, pork chop and other soft bones are not suitable, as they easily splinter.

Young English Cockers require a diet different from that of adult dogs. A good puppy diet promotes healthy growth and development, while the adult diet’s goal is maintaining overall good health and condition.

Whatever you are going to feed your dog, don’t rely entirely on the quantities given in the manufacturer’s instructions on the package. Every dog has different requirements and—as in humans—where one dog will grow fat on just a small portion, another will need double the quantity to stay in fit condition. So it is best to “feed with your eyes.”

Factor treats into your dog’s overall daily caloric intake, and avoid offering table scraps. Not only are certain “people foods,” like chocolate, onions, grapes, raisins and nuts, toxic to dogs, but feeding from the table also encourages begging and overeating. Overweight dogs are more prone to health problems. Research has even shown that obesity takes years off a dog’s life. With that in mind, resist the urge to overfeed and over-treat. Don’t make unnecessary additions to your dog’s diet, whether with tidbits or with extra vitamins and minerals. A good dog food will have complete nutrition in proper proportions, and you don’t want to upset the balance. It’s not a case of “if a little is good, a lot is better.”

The amount of food needed for proper maintenance will vary depending on the individual dog’s activity level, but you will be able to tell whether the daily portions are keeping him in good shape. With the wide variety of good complete foods available, choosing what to feed is largely a matter of personal preference. Just as with the puppy, the adult dog should have consistency in his mealtimes and feeding place. In addition to a consistent routine, regular mealtimes also allow the owner to see how much his dog is eating. If the dog seems never to be satisfied or, likewise, becomes uninterested in his food, the owner will know right away that something is wrong and can consult the vet.

SWITCHING FOODS

There are certain times in a dog’s life when it becomes necessary to switch his food; for example, from puppy to adult food and then from adult to senior-dog food. Additionally, you may decide to feed your pup a different type of food from what he received from the breeder, and there may be “emergency” situations in which you can’t find your dog’s normal brand and have to offer something else temporarily. Anytime a change is made, for whatever reason, the switch must be done gradually. You don’t want to upset the dog’s stomach or end up with a picky eater who refuses to eat something new. A tried-and-true approach is, over the course of about a week, to mix a little of the new food in with the old, increasing the proportion of new to old as the days progress. At the end of the week, you’ll be feeding his regular portions of the new food, and he will barely notice the change.

A good rule of thumb is that once a dog has reached around 75% of his expected lifespan, he has reached “senior citizen” or geriatric status. Your English Cocker Spaniel will be considered a senior at about 9 years of age; based on his size, he has a projected lifespan of about 12–14 years. (The smallest breeds generally enjoy the longest lives and the largest breeds the shortest.)

What does aging have to do with your dog’s diet? No, he won’t get a discount at the local diner’s early-bird special. Yes, he will require some dietary changes to accommodate the changes that come along with increased age. One change is that the older dog’s dietary needs become more similar to that of a puppy. Specifically, dogs can metabolize more protein as youngsters and seniors than in the adult-maintenance stage. Discuss with your vet whether you need to switch to a higher-protein or senior-formulated food or whether your current adult-dog food contains sufficient nutrition for the senior.

FEEDING IN HOT WEATHER

Even the most dedicated chow hound may have less of an appetite when the weather is hot or humid. If your dog leaves more of his food behind than usual, adjust his portions until the weather and his appetite return to normal. Never leave the uneaten portion in the bowl hoping he will return to finish it, because higher temperatures encourage food spoilage and bacterial growth.

Watching the dog’s weight remains essential, even more so in the senior stage. Older dogs are already more vulnerable to illness, and obesity only contributes to their susceptibility to problems. As the older dog becomes less active and thus exercises less, his regular portions may cause him to gain weight. At this point, you may consider decreasing his daily food intake or switching to a reduced-calorie food. As with other changes, you should consult your veterinarian for advice.

Just as your dog needs proper nutrition from his food, water is an essential “nutrient” as well. Water keeps the dog’s body properly hydrated and promotes normal function of the body’s systems. During housebreaking it is necessary to keep an eye on how much water your English Cocker is drinking, but once he is reliably trained he should have access to clean fresh water at all times. Make sure that the dog’s water bowl is clean, and change the water often.

You will find that your English Cocker Spaniel is a very sloppy drinker! He loves his water bowl and in his enthusiasm he will often put not only his mouth but also both front paws in the bowl, or he will take one last mouthful of water and, before swallowing it, come to you to tell you how much he loves you! A special spaniel bowl may help you keep the kitchen floor clean; this bowl is designed to keep long ears out of the food and water.

Spending a day in the field, hunting and retrieving, requires great stamina and strength. Although your English Cocker may not get the chance to hunt, he still needs adequate outlets for exercise and entertainment.

Retrieving from land and water is every English Cocker’s favorite pastime. The breed’s coat is designed to withstand the water and provide insulation.

All dogs require some form of exercise, regardless of breed. A sedentary lifestyle is as harmful to a dog as it is to a person. The English Cocker Spaniel is a very lively and active breed that requires a lot of free exercise. He will enjoy on-lead walks and will like to accompany you to different places, but what he needs is free running, preferably in exciting surroundings like woods or fields, of course under your supervision and at a safe calling distance.

Owners often make mistakes in the exercise they give their dogs. Whereas the new puppy is an exciting thing, they tend to give him too much exercise. Of course you will be excited to bring your pup out and about, around the neighborhood, to meet new friends, but it means that the small puppy is taken on too many walks. For a puppy up to six months old, the yard is big enough. Take him to the dog park once a day to let him socialize and play with the other dogs for about 15 minutes. Once the puppy is about nine months old, you can extend his daily walks to about an hour long, and once he is a year old his energy will be boundless.

WEIGHT AND SEE!

When you look at yourself in the mirror each day, you get very used to what you see! It’s only when you pull out last year’s holiday outfit and can’t zip it up that you notice that you’ve put on some pounds. Dog owners are the same way with their dogs. Often a few pounds go unnoticed, and it’s not until some time passes or the vet remarks that your dog looks more than pleasantly plump that you realize what’s happened. To avoid your pet’s becoming obese right under your very nose, make a habit of routinely evaluating his condition with a hands-on test.

Can you feel, but not see, your dog’s rib cage? Does your dog have a waist? His waist should be evident by touch and also visible from above and from the side. In top view, the dog’s body should have an hourglass shape. These are indicators of good condition.

While it’s not hard to spot an extremely skinny or overly rotund dog, it’s the subtle changes that lead up to under- or overweight condition of which we must be aware. If your dog’s ribs are visible, he is too thin. Conversely, if you can’t feel the ribs under too much fat, and if there’s no indication of a waistline, your dog is overweight. Both of these conditions require changes to the diet.

A trip or sometimes just a call to the vet will help you modify your dog’s feeding.

We cannot stress the importance of proper exercise enough. It is essential to keep the dog’s body fit, but it is also essential to his mental well-being. A bored dog will find something to do, which often manifests itself in some type of destructive behavior. In this sense, it is essential for your mental well-being!

A natural bristle brush or a slicker brush can be used for regular routine brushing. Daily brushing is effective for removing dead hair and stimulating the dog’s natural oils to add shine and a healthy look to the coat. Also, the soft and silky spaniel coat can easily form tangles and mats, especially in places like the “armpits” and behind the ears, and it is important to prevent these from forming.

Much of the English Cocker is hand-stripped, but scissors are used sparingly in certain places.

Introduce the English Cocker puppy to grooming at an early age. Make your daily brushing sessions fun for the puppy.

When you buy your puppy he will have a smooth, short coat without much feathering, but by the time your puppy is five or six months old you’ll find that he starts looking more like an Afghan Hound than an English Cocker Spaniel! The coat grows fluffy, the feathering gets longer and he will have a big topknot on his head and a long flag on his tail. With all of the hair on his feet, he will bring a lot of mud and dirt into the house.

Selecting the best grooming tools is essential with English Cockers. A slicker brush is ideal for removing dead hair and tangles from your dog’s coat.

You must always remember that the coat of an English Cocker Spaniel is to be hand-stripped only. Clipping and razoring is absolutely out of the question, since it destroys the density of color and you will never get that lovely silky sheen that you get when you hand-strip the coat.

A thin rubber glove or rubber fingertips assist in stripping the dead hairs from the dog’s coat. The gloves keep the hair from sliding through your fingers.

The ears require a combination of hand-plucking, trimming with thinning shears as well as attention to the hair inside the ears. Excess hair can cause ear problems and should be removed.

If you think you are not up to this job, you’ll have to seek help. Ask the breeder whether he can help you; sometimes breeders use their (little) spare time to groom. If not, you’ll have to take your puppy to a professional groomer with experience in hand-stripping. Be very careful where you go, since grooming parlors often believe that their canine clients want nothing but to have all of their excess hair removed—and that means that the featherings on his legs go, his back is clippered and the beautiful feathering on the ears is cut off. You have to stress the fact that what you want is a show trim—your English Cocker must be shaped in the way in which he looks his best and this should be done by hand-plucking and not by scissoring or clippering.

The puppy’s coat may take some time to get ready to come out; sometimes you have to wait until the puppy is eight or nine months old. This is annoying when you want to show the puppy, but be patient! Don’t hurry the coat by using cutting instruments; you will regret that later.

What you should do in the meantime is groom your puppy regularly so that he is quite used to being on a table and being handled. Also, the abundant hair around the feet and between the pads on the underside can be cut away.

When you find that your puppy’s coat may be ready to come out, you may find it easier to remove the hair by using “thumblettes,” which fit over your thumb and forefinger, or thin surgical gloves, which are quite tight-fitting.

Start with the head. Gently pull out the long hair, always pulling in the direction that the hair grows. This sounds painful, but it is not, since what you pull out is dead hair. Start with just a couple of hairs so that your puppy can get used to the feel and so that you will not run the risk of hurting him by pulling out too many hairs at the same time. If you have a really smooth finish on top of the head, go to the top of the ears and remove the long hairs there, shaping around the back of the ear and about one-third of the way down. With your thinning scissors, cut carefully under the corner of the ear next to the head, and then thin out all long and surplus hair from the breastbone up to and including the throat.

Vets will often tell you that English Cockers always have ear problems. This is not true. As long as you keep the inside of the ear clean and free of hair so that the ear can “breathe” and, if necessary, use ear cleaner, you will find that you will have no problems with your English Cocker’s ears.

The coat on the neck must be stripped out as short as possible, also with your finger and thumb. If you use a fine-tooth comb regularly, you will find that it will remove nearly all of the puppy fluff. Try to use the comb as a stripping tool by gripping the hair between the comb and your thumb and pulling it toward you. It helps when you weave an elastic band between the teeth of the comb.

Continue down the shoulders until they are smooth and clear. The forelegs will have a lot of fluffy hair on the sides and the front. This must be removed. The feathering on the backsides of the front legs stays as it is. The feathering should not touch the ground; when it does, you can shape it with scissors. When viewed from the front, the feathering should lie backwards quite naturally from the elbow.

Serrated scissors or thinning shears, as they are often called, are used to thin out excess hair and create a pleasing outline on your English Cocker.

Trimming the feet is difficult and must be done with care. Always cut the hair in the direction of the toes and follow the outline of the foot closely.

Work the comb with the elastic band through the body coat, the hair on the ribs and the outside of the hind legs. Pluck out the fluffy hair that will not come out with the comb. Leave the feathering around the stifles. Trim the tail and cut underneath it. Pluck the hair down to where the feathering falls downwards and trim the feathering into shape. Shape the hair on the hocks with the thinning scissors but do not take too much hair away; the hocks should look full.

Trimming the feet is not easy and you have to be very careful. Start with lifting the foot and cutting out all the surplus hair from underneath. Cut closely around the outline of the foot. Then put the foot down and cut the surplus hair away that sticks up between the toes. Cut in the direction of the toes. Do not cut away the hair in between the toes, since that makes the foot look like a splayed foot. Finish off with a good brush and you will find that instead of a bundle of fluff, you now have an English Cocker with a beautiful smooth and shining coat, gleaming with health and good condition.

WATER SHORTAGE

No matter how well behaved your dog is, bathing is always a project! Nothing can substitute for a good warm bath, but owners do have the option of giving their dogs “dry” baths. Pet shops sell excellent products, in both powder and spray forms, designed for spot-cleaning your dog. These dry shampoos are convenient for touch-up jobs when you don’t have the time to bathe your dog in the traditional way.

Muddy feet, messy behinds and smelly coats can be spot-cleaned and deodorized with a “wet-nap”-style cleaner. On those days when your dog insists on rolling in fresh goose droppings and there’s no time for a bath, a spot bath can save the day. These pre-moistened wipes are also handy for other grooming needs like wiping faces, ears and eyes and freshening tails and behinds.

Dogs do not need to be bathed as often as humans, but sometimes a bath will be necessary. It is therefore important that you accustom your pup to being bathed as a puppy so that he is used to it when he grows up. You will have to bathe your dog the day before a show, and most owners like to bathe their bitches after they have been in season.

Before you bathe your dog, make sure that the coat is absolutely tangle-free. Have the items you’ll need close at hand. First, decide where you will bathe the dog. You should have a tub or basin with a non-slip surface. Puppies can even be bathed in a sink. In warm weather, some like to use a portable pool in the yard, although you’ll want to make sure your dog doesn’t head for the nearest dirt pile following his bath! You will also need a hose or shower spray to wet the coat thoroughly, a shampoo formulated for dogs, absorbent towels and perhaps a blow dryer. Human shampoos are too harsh for dogs’ coats and will dry them out.

Before wetting the dog, give him a brush-through to remove any dead hair, dirt and mats. Make sure he is at ease in the tub and have the water at a comfortable temperature. Begin bathing by wetting the coat all the way down to the skin. Massage in the shampoo, keeping it away from his face and eyes. Rinse him thoroughly, again avoiding the eyes and ears, as you don’t want to get water into the ear canals. A thorough rinsing is important, as shampoo residue is drying and itchy to the dog. After rinsing, wrap him in a towel to absorb the initial moisture. You can ’nish drying with either a towel or a blow dryer on low heat, held at a safe distance from the dog and brushing as you dry. You should keep the dog indoors and away from any drafts until he is completely dry.

Pet shops sell special clippers for use on dogs’ nails. These nail clippers assist you in not cutting into the “quick,” the vein running through the nail.

Having their nails trimmed is not on many dogs’ lists of favorite things to do. With this in mind, you will need to accustom your puppy to the procedure at a young age so that he will sit still (well, as still as he can) for his pedicures. Long nails can cause the dog’s feet to spread, which is not good for him; likewise, long nails can hurt if they unintentionally scratch, not good for you!

Routine ear cleaning should be done gently with a soft cotton wipe or cotton ball. Should you find evidence of parasites, blood, or waxy discharge, contact your vet immediately.

Some dogs’ nails are worn down naturally by regular walking on hard surfaces, so the frequency with which you clip depends on your individual dog. Look at his nails from time to time and clip as needed; a good way to know when it’s time for a trim is if you hear your dog clicking as he walks across the floor.

There are several types of nail clippers and even electric nail-grinding tools made for dogs. First we’ll discuss using the clipper. To start, have your clipper ready and some doggie treats on hand. You want your pup to view his nail-clipping sessions in a positive light, and what better way to convince him than with food? You may want to enlist the help of an assistant to comfort the pup and offer treats as you concentrate on the clipping itself. The guillotine-type clipper is thought of by many as the easiest type to use; the nail tip is inserted into the opening, and blades on the top and bottom snip it off in one clip.

Start by grasping the pup’s paw; a little pressure on the foot pad causes the nail to extend, making it easier to clip. Clip off a little at a time. If you can see the “quick,” which is a blood vessel that runs through each nail, you will know how much to trim, as you do not want to cut into the quick. On that note, if you do cut the quick, which will cause bleeding, you can stem the flow of blood with a styptic pencil or other clotting agent. If you mistakenly nip the quick, do not panic or fuss, as this will cause the pup to be afraid. Simply reassure the pup, stop the bleeding and move on to the next nail. Don’t be discouraged; you will become a professional canine pedicurist with practice.

SCOOTING HIS BOTTOM

Here’s a doggy problem that many owners tend to neglect. If your dog is scooting his rear end around the carpet, he probably is experiencing anal-sac impaction or blockage. The anal sacs are the two grape-sized glands on either side of the dog’s vent. The dog cannot empty these glands, which become filled with a foul-smelling material. The dog may attempt to lick the area to relieve the pressure. He may also rub his anus on your walls, furniture or floors.

Don’t neglect your dog’s rear end during grooming sessions. By squeezing both sides of the anus with a soft cloth, you can express some of the material in the sacs. If the material is pasty and thick, you likely will need the assistance of a veterinarian. Vets know how to express the glands and can show you how to do it correctly without hurting the dog or spraying yourself with the unpleasant liquid.

You may or may not be able to see the quick, so it’s best to just clip off a small bit at a time. If you see a dark dot in the center of the nail, this is the quick and your cue to stop clipping. Tell the puppy he’s a “good boy” and offer a piece of treat with each nail. You can also use nail-clipping time to examine the footpads, making sure that they are not dry and cracked and that nothing has become embedded in them.

If you are wary of using nail clippers, you might prefer the use of a nail grinder. This is a small battery-operated contraption that slowly grinds the nails. There is no fear of cutting into the quick and the dogs don’t usually mind the slight buzzing sound of the grinder at all, although you must be careful not to catch any of the coat in the grinder.

Ears can be cleaned with an ear cleaner made specifically for dogs. If you are attentive to your English Cocker’s ears, he should not be plagued by ear problems.

While keeping your dog’s ears clean unfortunately will not cause him to “hear” your commands any better, it will protect him from ear infection and ear-mite infestation. In addition, a dog’s ears are vulnerable to waxy build-up and to collecting foreign matter from the outdoors. Look in your dog’s ears regularly to ensure that they look pink, clean and otherwise healthy. Even if they look fine, an odor in the ears signals a problem and means it’s time to call the vet.

A dog’s ears should be cleaned regularly; once a week is suggested, and you can do this along with your regular brushing. Using a cotton ball or pad, and never probing into the ear canal, wipe the ear gently. You can use an ear-cleansing liquid or powder available from your vet or pet-supply store; alternatively, you might prefer to use home-made solutions with ingredients like one part white vinegar and one part hydrogen peroxide. Ask your vet about home remedies before you attempt to concoct something on your own!

Keep your dog’s ears free of excess hair by plucking the hair as needed. If done gently, this will be painless for the dog. Look for wax, brown droppings (a sign of ear mites), redness or any other abnormalities. If your English Cocker Spaniel has been shaking his head or scratching at his ears frequently, this usually indicates a problem. In this case, don’t clean the ear canal yourself. If you poke into the ear canal with tweezers or cotton swab, you’ll only succeed in aggravating things and could injure your dog in the process. Contact your vet before the condition gets serious.

If you check your spaniel’s ears regularly and use ear cleaner to keep his ears clean, you will find that the English Cocker’s reputation for ear trouble is totally unfounded.

During grooming sessions, pay extra attention to the condition of your dog’s eyes. If the area around the eyes is soiled or if tear staining has occurred, there are various cleaning agents made especially for this purpose. Look at the dog’s eyes to make sure no debris has entered; dogs who spend lots of time outdoors are especially prone to this.

The signs of an eye infection are obvious: mucus, redness, puffiness, scabs or other signs of irritation. If your dog’s eyes become infected, the vet will likely prescribe an antibiotic ointment for treatment. If you notice signs of more serious problems, such as opacities in the eye, which usually indicate cataracts, consult the vet at once. Taking time to pay attention to your dog’s eyes will alert you in the early stages of any problem so that you can get your dog treatment as soon as possible. You could save your dog’s sight!

You love your English Cocker Spaniel and want to keep him safe. Of course you take every precaution to prevent his escaping from the yard or becoming lost or stolen. You have a sturdy high fence and you always keep your dog on lead when out and about in public places. If your dog is not properly identified, however, you are overlooking a major aspect of his safety. We hope to never be in a situation where our dog is missing, but we should practice prevention in the unfortunate case that this happens; identification greatly increases the chances of your dog’s being returned to you.

PET OR STRAY?

Besides the obvious benefit of providing your contact information to whoever finds your lost dog, an ID tag makes your dog more approachable and more likely to be recovered. A strange dog wandering the neighborhood without a collar and tags will look like a stray, while the collar and tags indicate that the dog is someone’s pet. Even if the ID tags become detached from the collar, the collar alone will make a person more likely to pick up the dog.

There are several ways to identify your dog. First, the traditional dog tag should be a staple in your dog’s wardrobe, attached to his everyday collar. Tags can be made of sturdy plastic and various metals and should include your contact information so that a person who finds the dog can get in touch with you right away to arrange his return. Many people today enjoy the wide range of decorative tags available, so have fun and create a tag to match your dog’s personality. Of course, it is important that the tag stays on the collar, so have a secure “O” ring attachment; you also can explore the type of tag that slides right onto the collar.

In addition to the ID tag, which every dog should wear even if identified by another method, two other forms of identification have become popular: microchipping and tattooing. In microchipping, a tiny scannable chip is painlessly inserted under the dog’s skin. The number is registered to you so that if your lost dog turns up at a clinic or shelter, the chip can be scanned to retrieve your contact information.

Show your English Cocker how much you love him by making sure he is properly identified and always providing for his safety.

The advantage of the microchip is that it is a permanent form of ID, but there are some factors to consider. Several different companies make microchips, and not all are compatible with the others’ scanning devices. It’s best to find a company with a universal microchip that can be read by scanners made by other companies as well. It won’t do any good to have the dog chipped if the information cannot be retrieved. Also, not every humane society, shelter and clinic is equipped with a scanner, although more and more facilities are equipping themselves. In fact, many shelters microchip dogs that they adopt out to new homes.

CAR CAUTION

You may like to bring your canine companion along on the daily errands, but if you will be running in and out from place to place and can’t bring him indoors with you, leave him at home. Your dog should never be left alone in the car, not even for a minute—never! A car heats up very quickly, and even a cracked-open window will not help. In fact, leaving the window cracked will be dangerous if the dog becomes uncomfortable and tries to escape. When in doubt, leave your dog home, where you know he will be safe.

Because the microchip is not visible to the eye, the dog must wear a tag that states that he is microchipped so that whoever picks him up will know to have him scanned. He of course also should have a tag with contact information in case his chip cannot be read. Humane societies and veterinary clinics offer this service, which is usually very affordable.

Your English Cocker should have a permanent form of ID like a microchip or tattoo for safety’s sake. This is an example of a tattoo on the inside of the thigh.

Though less popular than microchipping, tattooing is another permanent method of ID for dogs. Most vets perform this service, and there are also clinics that perform dog tattooing. This is also an affordable procedure and one that will not cause much discomfort for the dog. It is best to put the tattoo in a visible area, such as the ear, to deter theft. It is sad to say that there are cases of dogs’ being stolen and sold to research laboratories, but such laboratories will not accept tattooed dogs.

To ensure that the tattoo is effective in aiding your dog’s return to you, the tattoo number must be registered with a national organization. That way, when someone finds a tattooed dog a phone call to the registry will match the dog with his owner.