Hiking the GDT

It is important to understand that the GDT is not a continuous trail, but rather a route, combining many individual trails, seismic lines, and reclaimed and active roads. Outside of a few remnant signposts in the south, there are no markers indicating the Great Divide Trail.

The advice in this section is primarily intended for those who are planning to hike a significant length of the trail, although hikers who are not familiar with the Canadian Rockies will find much of the information useful.

Thru-hiking the GDT

Thru-hiking involves backpacking from one trailhead to a distant one and may require that you resupply on the way. You face some important physical and logistical challenges if you are considering a thru-hike on the GDT.

The prime months for thru-hiking the GDT are late July, all of August and early September. The best way to hike the whole route in a season is south to north owing to factors such as length between resupply points, difficulty and remnant snow.

Deciding When and Where to Hike

The Section and Segment introductions provide an indication of the character of the route so that you can quickly decide which part of it interests you. Be sure to read the difficulty rating and special notes in each Segment. Simply reading the introduction to each Section may not be enough. Read the trail descriptions that interest you and examine the maps to get a sense of the terrain and distance. Take note of trail descriptions that mention any cross-country travel, bushwhacking, steep sections, scrambling, creek fords, road-walking or motorized trails. If you are bothered by national park regulations, there are parts of the GDT that have very few restrictions and do not require correspondence with Parks Canada before you get to the trailhead.

The next step is to decide when to start. If the trail section that interests you includes high passes with remnant snow pack, you should wait until late summer to hike it. If you are determined to travel in the early summer or spring, you should research the trail conditions before going. Snow avalanche hazard is very real in the Canadian Rockies and can persist into the summer.

Once you have decided when and where you want to hike, you should make a detailed itinerary. National parks regulations prohibit random camping in most areas, confining overnight users to established backcountry campgrounds. This means that your itinerary will largely depend on the location of campgrounds, as you must consider the distance you wish to hike each day in accordance with where you will sleep. Only after you finalize your itinerary will you be able to reserve campgrounds, get permits, apportion rations and determine resupply points.

Pacing your Hike

Long distance hiking requires endurance, stamina and determination. Be modest in estimating your daily pace and account for a much heavier pack at the start of your hike, slowing your pace. Hiking faster won’t necessarily mean you will cover more distance. You will accomplish your daily objectives by hiking more hours at a comfortable pace. Simply put, while you are coaxing a fire to prepare your coffee, you could be hiking. After hiking 20 km one day, you should be able to wake early and do the same on the following day. Condition yourself before starting the hike. Start slow and build up to your desired pace.

Terrain

Sedimentary rock, dramatic relief and heavily glaciated features characterize the Canadian Rocky Mountains. Upper valleys are typically narrow with high rock walls. Timberline is at about 2100 m in Waterton Lakes National Park and 1800 m in Kakwa Lake Provincial Park. Most years, remnant snow fields tend to persist on the flanks of the high passes and summits.

Weather

The Canadian Rocky Mountain chain’s weather pattern can vary greatly from year to year. One summer may be overcast and cold while the following summer may be clear and hot. The conditions at the start of the hiking season are extremely variable and depend largely upon the snowfall the previous winter. The best time to hike anywhere on the GDT is in early August.

The warmest month in the Canadian Rockies is July, which averages about 23°C in the valley bottoms. During the summer solstice, the Rockies experience an average of 16.5 hours of daylight. In spite of the long, warm days, the snow pack persists on the high passes through half of the summer. Overnight lows during summer in the valley bottoms usually remain above freezing. However, keep in mind that the air temperature cools 0.7°C for every 100 m of elevation gain.

In general you can count on finding consolidated snow and even snow avalanche hazards on the GDT in June. You will still find snow on the trail toward late July but only in isolated areas above timberline. Hot weather usually arrives by mid-July and persists into mid-August. Violent thunderstorms typically accompany the hot weather in July and August. In the mountains, these storms seem to appear from nowhere and advance very quickly. You can count on warm days with cold nights by the end of August and into September.

During my thru-hike in 1996, I hiked through a total of eight days of snowfall over June, July and August. Near the end of June in the Height of the Rockies Provincial Park, I woke up to 30 cm of wet snow. I also experienced many more days of very cold rain. In early July 1999, the Icefields Parkway 93 closed for a day owing to a 50 cm snowfall. Later that summer, a particularly intense rainfall caused a serious landslide that blocked the Trans-Canada Highway just west of Banff.

Bugs

The valley bottoms in the Canadian Rockies have a blessedly short mosquito season in late June or early July. At higher elevations—where the GDT is located—the mosquito season may last through July and toward the end of August especially in areas with stagnant water such as a shallow lake or boggy meadow. A few hard frosts in August usually clear the air.

The most annoying biting insect in the Canadian Rockies is likely the horse fly, prevalent from June through August at all elevations of the GDT. Hordes of these flies may follow you at times, keeping you in sight through their brightly striped eyes until they get a chance to bite hard. You’ll find that deer flies and black flies join in the seasonal fun. However, their bites are slightly less painful.

Tick season arrives before the snow clears from the high passes of the GDT in April, and lasts until the middle of June. You’ll find ticks all summer and fall where sheep gather. I have only encountered ticks in the lower elevations of the first two sections where cattle graze in the Castle and Bow/Crow forest districts of Alberta. Keep your guard up for the Rocky Mountain wood tick in subalpine meadows and other grassy areas. This tick can transmit Rocky Mountain spotted fever. This is a very serious and potentially lethal disease that develops within 12 days after an infected tick bites you. Early symptoms include chills, headaches and muscular pains, which later develop into a fever before turning into a sickly rash covering much of the body. Ticks also transmit Lyme disease, which is far more difficult to diagnose. If you find a well-attached tick on your body and you start feeling sick for any reason within the next three to 12 days, you must see a doctor.

Bears

Grizzly and black bears inhabit the length of the GDT. Counting on a sturdy tree to climb or on your good vibes is not enough. Bear attacks are not a frequent occurrence in the Canadian Rocky Mountains but you should bring some means of deterrence. The greatest form of deterrence is to deny bears access to human food and garbage. Hang your food at least 4 m off the ground and away from any trees each night or even when you stash your pack before bagging a peak.

The best defence against being attacked by a bear is constant awarness. Be especially careful in thick willows near streams where the noise of the stream masks your approach. Make noise to let a bear know you are in the area. Pepper spray is readily available at outdoor stores for hikers and has proven to be an effective deterrent. A bear banger is a handheld flare unit that can launch an explosive charge to frighten the bear away. Practise using these devices and keep them accessible at all times if you choose to carry them. Bear bells are extremely poor company for any long distance hiker. Consider using another noise-making device such as an air-horn. Whistles are bear attractants because they sound like marmots, pikas and ground squirrels that are part of a bear’s food source. If a fear of bears has kept you out of the backcountry despite your desire to do longer hikes, you should learn more about travelling in bear country. When you realize you have an astronomically higher chance of being injured in a traffic accident than being attacked by a bear, you will avoid returning to your car at the trailhead.

Safety

Many segments of the GDT described in this guidebook are remote wilderness routes. While an indication of trail conditions is given for planning purposes, trail conditions in the backcountry constantly change. To hike much of this route you must have planned carefully, be fit, competent, well equipped and aware of potential backcountry dangers owing to weather, terrain or wildlife. Your safety is your own responsibility. The author and publisher of this book are not responsible if you get yourself into a fix.

The safest way to journey on the GDT is to let someone reliable know where you are going and when they can expect to hear from you. If they fail to hear from you at the agreed upon time, this contact could call for a rescue. If you cannot find someone to track your hike, you can fill-out a voluntary safety registration form at an information centre in any national park. If Parks Canada staff do not hear from you by the time you specify, wardens will commence a search. Be very specific when you complete these registrations. For example, if you don’t mention you aren’t leaving a car at the trailhead, the search party may assume you have driven away and neglected to check in after your trip.

For the sake of preparedness, you should consider what you would do if you experienced an injury. Is the section you plan to hike a well-used leg of the trail? Would other hikers find you if you stayed still? Where is the nearest help located? Is your first aid kit complete enough? If you are concerned about the remoteness of the route but you are still determined to hike it, you should consider finding a partner or hiring a guide. Ask at information centres for hiking guide services. Another option is to carry a satellite distress beacon for backcountry travellers.

The book provides information on trails that lead away from the GDT to the nearest road or vehicle access point for emergencies. However, you should not expect to encounter traffic upon reaching the nearest road. Many of the roads leading to GDT access points are remote and not well travelled.

Equipment

Choose your equipment carefully. There is nothing worse than spending your savings on unnecessary gear. Keep in mind that hiking farther does not mean you must pack more. The farther you travel the less you want to carry on your back. Factors such as the terrain, weather and wildlife are important to consider when choosing gear. Here are some pointers:

1.In view of the climate of the Canadian Rockies, you should prepare yourself for as many days of cold and wet weather as you are hiking. A simple item such as a tarpaulin or umbrella may save you plenty of grief. In any case, you must include some form of rain gear in your pack.

2.Your shelter should be able to withstand a downpour of rain or wet snow and high winds. A three-season tent is the most appropriate. Winter or four-season tents are heavy and more than you need. Make sure the aluminum poles for your tent are in good repair and that the tent has a “bath-tub” floor where the seams are all sealed. If you prefer bivvy sacks, make sure the waterproofing is solid and that the bag has mosquito netting.

3.A three-season sleeping bag with a rating of around -7°C should serve you well for the summer. The selection depends on your own comfort level and experience. Keep in mind that temperature ratings for sleeping bags account for insulation from the ground such as a sleeping pad.

4.In general, the national park trail system is good enough in mid-summer to allow you to wear light hiking boots or even running shoes. Outside the national parks your best choice of footwear is a mid or heavyweight hiking boot owing to all the different trail types, including cross-country travel. In late spring/early summer when there is still snow on the trail, wear a leather mountaineering boot with a half to three-quarter shank and Vibram soles.

5.Having an ice axe and the knowledge to self-arrest with it may be essential in late spring. Otherwise an ice axe is unnecessary from mid-summer into early fall. Early season hikers may wish to consider carrying a pair of small, lightweight snowshoes.

6.Trekking poles are very helpful on the GDT. They are useful implements for negotiating cross-country terrain, long ascents, remnant snow and creek fords. They make fair machetes for bushwhacking and good horse fly beaters.

7.Bugs can ruin your hike. The key is to understand your own level of tolerance. Even if you are relatively immune, you may decide to bring light, long-sleeved clothing on the GDT. At the very least, you should take insect repellent that works well. In my experience, clothing made of Supplex nylon and repellent with at least 30 per cent deet is the solution. Citronella is only useful insofar as it disguises your hiking companion’s body odour.

8.Take some form of water purification: a filter or chemicals to prevent tiny bugs from wreaking havoc on your digestive system. Otherwise, plan to boil water. Even if water sources are free from bacteria and parasites, rock flour—the microscopic rock particles that give much of the water in the Rockies its azure colour—can upset your stomach.

9.If you do not want all the contents of your backpack to smell like the food you are carrying, a waterproof bag for your food and cooking wares is advisable. By hanging such a bag, you can spare your backpack an evening’s rainfall or the sharp beak of a Whiskey Jack. The cord you use to hang this bag should be 10 m long and thick enough to handle with cold, bare hands.

10.An axe is inappropriate in the national and most provincial parks as the wood provided is already cut. At the very most, a hatchet or sturdy knife may be useful for making kindling out of deadfall.

Transportation

If you do not have someone to drop you off at the trailhead, the logistics of getting to and from the route pose a challenge. Hitchhiking is an easy alternative if you do not mind the risk or the wait. A taxi might be an easy choice if you have access to a telephone and enough cash. Many of the towns en route have service from the major bus lines such as Greyhound. These towns include Waterton, Blairmore, Coleman, Canmore, Banff, Lake Louise, Field and Jasper. Specialized service exists for those who need to get to trails in more remote places such as Lake Louise Taxi and the Waterton Park Transport Campany. Hostelling International might be able to provide you with some alternatives with their inter-hostel shuttle. Getting to Banff or Lake Louise from the Calgary airport is straightforward. Three companies that offer competitive prices are the Banff Airporter, the Banff/Lake Louise Sky-Shuttle and the Canmore Airporter.

Resupply

The best method of resupply is to contact potential resupply points such as postal outlets, hotels, resorts and outfitters to ask if they will hold a package for you and for how long. Then either you or someone you know can mail parcels to these resupply stations for pick-up. Another alternative is to have friends deliver the food parcels to you at agreed upon points. This method is only feasible for people who live near the GDT. I do not recommend hiding food parcels on the route. You should contact the appropriate park for permission if you are considering this method.

Mailing supplies to yourself isn’t as straightforward as you would think. When you put your resupply box or boxes together you should start with a sturdy cardboard box that has few markings on it. Use filler to deaden empty areas of the packed box or cut it down so items such as zip-locks full of juice crystals are not tossed around and punctured. Use a large label that clearly bears your name for general delivery and include a return address. You must have some form of picture ID and a second form of identification to pick up your parcel from postal outlets. You may have to bring some extra money to pay a nominal holding fee at some of the resorts. Ask about fees in advance.

You should consider packing a rolling supply parcel that contains bulk items that you may or may not need at the resupply point. Consider packing batteries, tape, film, first-aid supplies, labelling material, bulk stamps, extra non-perishable food, and clothing like socks and underwear into the parcel. If you don’t need the parcel you can send it to the next resupply station and add any items that you no longer need to carry.

It is unlawful to mail any pressurized or combustible agent. For example, you cannot mail pepper spray, a tin of shaving cream, matches or lighters. Fuel also cannot travel by mail. (You can purchase white gas (naphthalene), propane, and butane at every resupply point between sections on the GDT.) Obtain a detailed list of prohibited items from the post office.

If you are coming to Canada from anywhere but the USA, you should bring all your equipment with you and purchase food and other supplies in Canada. Once in Canada, you can assemble the resupply parcels and then mail them out. Mailing parcels from overseas is very unreliable. Even parcels sent from the USA can stall interminably at the border owing to strict Canadian Customs regulations.

Postal System. The more preparation you put into mailing supplies to yourself, the better. Preparing your first resupply parcel and sending it off into the cogs of the postal system is an anxiety-inducing experience, especially if you live across the country. Canada Post allows you to insure your resupply parcels for a small charge. I highly recommend buying insurance so that you can track your box if it fails to arrive in town by the time you do. Regular air or ground mail is untraceable as well as unpredictable. Luckily, postal insurance is cheap and if your parcel fails to arrive you will be compensated. This guidebook lists the addresses of postal outlets and phone numbers of resorts at the back of the book and on the website www.rmbooks.com.

Resupply Establishments. Account for seasonal closures when mailing your package. Postal outlets will hold an item for up to two weeks unless notified to hold for a few extra days. Resorts have different policies. In cases where you may have to send your parcel to a resort, telephone in advance to ensure the establishment is able to hold your supplies, and record the name of the person you spoke with. Try to deal with someone who will be working through the entire season. Remember to ask about holding and delivery fees in advance.

Trail Manager. Because postal outlets only hold boxes for a specified time, it’s useful to find a trail manager to send out your supplies according to your thru-hiking itinerary. Without a trail manager, you can send all your parcels at once but you must contact the resupply stations to make sure they hold your packages until you arrive. The added benefit of having a trail manager is that in an emergency someone knows approximately where you are and can alert the proper authorities if you fail to check in at your next resupply stop. They can also throw in last minute goodies or important unforseen items before sending the next parcel.

Other Information on Thru-hiking

There is enough information particular to thru-hiking to fill a book. You will be happy to know that someone has written a book devoted to long distance hiking. Read Beyond Backpacking, Ray Jardine’s guide to lightweight hiking published by AdventureLore Press, www.adventurelore.com. Although written for a spectrum of wilderness enthusiasts, this book thoughtfully discusses the challenges that face all thru-hikers. Ray Jardine’s backpacking methods aren’t for everyone, but the topics he presents will definitely stimulate your own ideas and more thoughtful planning of your thru-hike.

Route Maps

Within the route description, there are quasi-topographical 1:70,000 scale maps that display summits, mountain ranges, water bodies, towns, trails and structures. In addition, these maps display all campgrounds and waypoints mentioned within the description. You are strongly advised to use the topographical maps mentioned on page 12 for navigation.

MAP LEGEND

GDT main route
Alternate route
Other trails
Waypoint
Telephone
Campground
Mountain
Height in metres	2565