INCI: Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter
This is a hard butter with a melting temperature of 100°F (38°C). It has a relatively long shelf life of two to five years. It also contains polyphenols and phyosterols and some skin softening Vitamin E. Cocoa butter provides an occlusive layer on our skin.
Palmitic Acid 25–30%
Stearic Acid 31–35%
Oleic Acid 34–36%
Linoleic Acid 3%
INCI: Mangifera Indica (Mango) Seed Butter
This is a medium-hard butter with a melting temperature of 86°F–98.6°F (30°C–37°C) and a slight sweet scent. It has a shelf life of two to three years. It has emollient properties, high oxidative ability, wound healing, and regenerative activity.
Palmitic Acid 25-30%
Stearic Acid 31–35%
Oleic Acid 34–36%
Linoleic Acid 3%
INCI: Butyrospermum parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit
This is a soft butter with a melting temperature of 97°F–100°F (36°C–38°C). It has a shelf life of two to three years. Shea penetrates deep into the skin, rejuvenating damaged cells and restoring elasticity and tone. In soap, it has a larger than average proportion of fats that are not saponifiable, meaning the soap will actually retain some moisturizing qualities.
Palmitic Acid 25–30%
Stearic Acid 31–35%
Oleic Acid 34–36%
Linoleic Acid 3%
INCI: Apricot Kernel (Prunus Armeniaca) Oil
Very similar to sweet almond oil, apricot oil is a lightweight oil with a shelf life of about one year. On skin it is softening, moisturizing, and is easily absorbed. In soap it creates a conditioning stable lather. It is often used in place of sweet almond oil for those with nut allergies.
Palmitic Acid 4–7%
Stearic Acid 1%
Oleic Acid 58–78%
Linoleic Acid 20–34%
SAP VALUE KOH / NaOH: .190---.135
INCI: Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil
Medium-weight oil with a shelf life of about one year. Avocado oil is easily absorbed into deep tissue, and with its wonderfully emollient properties, it’s ideal for mature skins. It also helps to relieve the dryness and itching of psoriasis and eczema, and it helps with skin regeneration.
Palmitic Acid 10%
Stearic Acid 4%
Oleic Acid 75–80%
Linoleic Acid 7–10%
SAP VALUE KOH / NaOH: .190---.135
INCI: Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil
One of the thickest and heaviest oils available, castor oil has a shelf life of five years. On skin it is a humectant and helps to retain moisture levels. In soap it makes for a softer bar but improves lather when used in small quantities. Can also make the soap a bit translucent.
Oleic Acid 2–6%
Linoleic Acid 2–4%
Ricinoleic Acid 85%
SAP VALUE KOH / NaOH: .180---.128
Solid at temperatures below 76°F (24°C), this is a medium-weight oil with a shelf life of about 2–4 years. On skin, coconut oil contains some very potent antioxidants that can help with skin aging, and help repair damage caused by light and radiation. It softens, moisturizes, and soothes chapped and itchy skin. In soap, coconut oil creates loads of big bubbles. Although it makes a hard bar, it melts very quickly in water, making it a great soap for hard water conditions. It is also extremely cleansing and in high proportion, can be very drying to the skin.
Lauric Acid 48%
Myristic Acid 18%
Palmitic Acid 9%
SAP VALUE KOH / NaOH: .2660 / .181
INCI: Emu Oil
This medium-weight oil has a shelf life of one year. Emu oil has wonderful skin softening and cell regenerating properties and is great for restoring the skin’s barrier function. This oil also helps other ingredients absorb better into the skin. Although it can be used in soap, I recommend that this oil be reserved for direct applications.
Palmitic Acid 25–30%
Stearic Acid 31–35%
Oleic Acid 34–36%
Linoleic Acid 3%
SAP VALUE KOH / NaOH: .135 / .192
INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
This is an incredibly lightweight oil with at least a 2-year shelf life. Since this is a portion of coconut oil on a molecular level (fractionated means that a number of long chain fatty acids were removed chemically), the resultant moisturizing oil is easily absorbed by skin and hair.
Caprylic Acid 53–55%
Capric Acid 36–47%
SAP VALUE KOH / NaOH: .334 / .237
INCI: Vitis vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil
This is another great lightweight oil. It has a relatively short shelf life of 6 months to 1 year. On skin it can help to retain moisture and reduce inflammation and itchiness. I recommend that it is used sparingly in soap, since it has a short shelf life.
Palmitic Acid 7%
Stearic Acid 4%
Oleic Acid 16%
Linoleic Acid 72%
SAP VALUE KOH / NaOH: .187 / .133
INCI: Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil
Technically this is not an oil, but rather a liquid wax ester. It is lightweight and has a long shelf life of at least 2 years. It is great for hair and skin, since it mixes with sebum and allows it to be washed away. It is an excellent emollient. In soap, jojoba adds moisturizing and conditioning properties as well as extending the shelf life of the soap.
Palmitoleic Acid 2%
Stearic Acid %
Oleic Acid 14–25%
Gadoleic Acid 37%
Erucic Acid 20%
SAP VALUE KOH / NaOH: .065 / .091
INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
This a medium-weight oil with a shelf life of about one year. It is known for its skin moisturizing and nourishing properties. It makes an extremely gentle soap, suitable for sensitive skin types. Used by itself in soap, it yields a lather that is creamy rather than bubbly and while still fresh, the lather may actually feel a bit slimy. That sliminess goes away after a 6-month or more cure time.
Palmitic Acid 10%
Stearic Acid 3%
Oleic Acid 55–83%
Linoleic Acid 4–21%
Linolenic Acid 1%
SAP VALUE KOH / NaOH: .135 / .190
Rice bran oil is a medium-weight oil with a shelf life of 6 months to one year. It is high in Vitamin E and fatty acids that make skin soft and improve elasticity. It also helps with cell regeneration. In soap, it behaves similarly to olive oil, but I find it adds silkiness to the soap and makes a slightly harder, longer lasting bar.
Palmitic Acid 16%
Stearic Acid 2%
Oleic Acid 42%
Linoleic Acid 36%
Linolenic Acid 2%
SAP VALUE KOH / NaOH: .135 / .190
INCI: Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil
This is a lightweight oil that has a 2 year shelf life. It is a nourishing oil that is great for oily skin and is easily absorbed. In soap, it is mild and moisturizing.
Palmitic Acid 3–6%
Stearic Acid 1–4 %
Oleic Acid 13–21%
Linoleic Acid 73–79%
SAP VALUE KOH / NaOH: .135 / .190
INCI: Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil
Sesame seed oil is a lighter-weight oil with a about one year shelf life. It is frequently used in massage products, since it is doesn’t stain clothes. It is also good at moisture regulation, reducing inflammation, and cell regeneration. In soap, sesame oil will be moisturizing and conditioning.
Palmitic Acid 9%
Stearic Acid 4%
Oleic Acid 45%
Linoleic Acid 40%
SAP VALUE KOH / NaOH: .135 / .191
INCI: Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil
Soybean oil is a lightweight oil with about a one year shelf life. It is easily absorbed and can soothe chapped skin. In soap it is mild, moisturizing, and gives a creamy lather. Soybean oil is also readily available and economical. I prefer to use organic soybean oil, especially in my direct skin applications.
Palmitic Acid 10%
Oleic Acid 29%
Linoleic Acid 53%
Linolenic Acid 8%
SAP VALUE KOH / NaOH: .134 / .188
INCI: Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil
High oleic sunflower oil is a medium-weight oil with a shelf life of about one year. On skin, it has great softening and anti-inflammatory properties. In soap, it works nicely with palm and olive oils to give a rich, creamy lather that’s very moisturizing.
Palmitic Acid 5–7%
Stearic Acid 3–6%
Oleic Acid 15–36%
Linoleic Acid 61–73%
SAP VALUE KOH / NaOH: .136 / .191
INCI: Prunus dulcis (Almond) oil
This is a lightweight oil with a shelf life of one year. This emollient oil softens and nourishes the skin, and is often used in massage. In soap it creates a conditioning, stabile lather.
Palmitic Acid 2–6%
Palmitoleic Acid 2%
Stearic Acid 3%
Oleic Acid 60–78%
Linoleic Acid 10–30%
Linolenic Acid 2%
SAP VALUE KOH / NaOH: .137 / .194
INCI: Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 6
E-wax is an all-in-one, easy-to-use emulsifier used to combine water and oil into a lotion or cream. NF means that it conforms to the National Formulary guidelines.
INCI: Lanolin
Technically, lanolin is a wax. It is the yellow, extremely viscous substance sheep produce that helps them shed water from their coats. Most lanolin is a by-product of wool processing, since it needs to be removed before the wool can be dyed or woven. For skin, it is a wonderful protectant, creating a semi-permeable layer to keep the elements out and the moisture in.
INCI: Lecithin
Derived from soybeans, lecithin is usually added to act as an emulsifier, but it also helps to replenish and repair the skin. It works wonders on nails.
INCI: Phenoxyethanol (and) Caprylyl Glycol
Optiphen is a broad-spectrum, paraben-free preservative that can be used to preserve emulsified products that contain water, such as lotions and creams. There are other preservatives, but this is one of my favorites.
INCI: Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Extract
Rosemary oleoresin, or ROE as it is often abbreviated, is added to oils as an antioxidant. It helps prevent oils from oxidizing and becoming rancid and it prolongs the shelf life of a product. This is not a preservative.
INCI: Stearic Acid
Stearic acid is one of many fatty acids that occur naturally in the plant and animal world. It is a component in animal tallow, cocoa butter, and vegetable fats. When it’s used in cosmetic products, stearic acid primarily fulfills the role of a thickener or hardener. Stearic acid is the substance that helps a bar of soap retain its shape.
INCI: Tocopherol
T-50 is an all-natural, blend of mixed tocopherols and edible vegetable oils.
It functions as an excellent antioxidant for oils or products that contain oil. It helps delay oxidation and will help to extend the shelf life of oils and oil-based products. It works a bit differently than the rosemary oleoresin, so I often use both.
Erucic acid is used in cosmetic products as an emollient because it provides a protective layer for skin.
Gadoleic Acid prevents transdermal water loss. It serves as an occlusive barrier without being sticky or overly greasy.
Linoleic acid helps to improve skin’s barrier function, helps to soothe itchy dry skin, and acts as an anti-inflammatory and a moisture retainer.
Very moisturizing, oleic acid helps skin cells regenerate quickly. It is very easily absorbed by the skin and it acts as an anti-inflammatory.
Palmitic acid helps to reinforce skin barrier function, and is a very good emollient.
A building block in our skin that prevents burns, wounds, and scratches. Most active microbial in human sebum, palmitic acid treats damaged skin and mucous membranes.
Only found in castor oil, it has analgesic and anti-inflammatory effects.
Stearic acid helps improve moisture retention; increase flexibility of the skin, and repair skin damage.
This vital vitamin sinks into our skin and behaves as an antioxidant.
Arnica is known for its natural anti-inflammatory properties and its ability to reduce swelling. Arnica salve is a muscle workhorse. It is wonderful for sprains, strains, and pulled ligaments or muscles! It also works really well to help bruised areas heal.
Calendula is anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial; good for minor cuts and burns. Promotes healing by aiding clotting.
Contains the flavonoids apigenin, luteolin, and quercetin, and the volatile oils alpha-bisabolol and matricin, which help to make chamomiles anti-inflammatory, antispasmodic, and antioxidant. It is also known for being calming, soothing, and healing.
See German Chamomile, which has a very similar effect on skin.
Great soother of itchy and sore skin. It helps to cools and relieve inflamed areas.
The high allantoin content in comfrey is the star of this herb. It encourages the renewal of skin cells and the strengthening of skin tissues, and it helps to heal wounds as well as to reduce the visible effects of aging by bringing back elasticity to the skin. It is also a mild astringent, which makes comfrey great for sunburn, ulcers, and sores. Since it is so powerful, it should not to be used on cuts that are deep, since it can trap infection by healing the top layer of skin faster than deeper layers.
Lavender is a super star for burns and encouraging wound healing. It has also been found to be effective against the principal bacteria involved in acne and is known to soothe insect bites and bee stings.
Astringent, antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and anti-itch, plantain has a long history of being used for problem skin. It contains salicylic acid, which helps to reduce acne breakouts. Plantain is also great for bee stings. Just pick a leaf, mash it up a bit, and apply as a poultice to the sting.
Removes excess oil from skin without causing excess dryness. It has regenerating and stimulating effects that help to rejuvenate skin and give it a more youthful glow. It helps to restore elasticity and firmness to the skin and encourages skin cell turnover and renewal.
With astringent, antibacterial, and antiseptic properties, self-heal helps to reduce pain and promote healing of cuts and scrapes. Can even be used on skin rashes.
Helps to support skin elasticity, soothes redness and irritation, and works wonders on burns, wounds, insect bites, and other skin irritations.
Thyme’s natural antimicrobial, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties help to remove excess oil and dirt from pores and reduce acne outbreaks. Thyme contains powerful antioxidants that can help protect skin from premature aging.
(T=top note H=heart note B=base note)
It has a sweet, warm, vanillalike odor that is long lasting and makes it an excellent fixative.
Cold-pressed essential oil produced by the rind of a bergamot orange fruit. Bergamot essential oil assists with stress, tension, SAD, PMS, skin problems, anxiety, and colds and flu. On the skin, Bergamot oil has antiseptic and astringent properties, which make it useful after shaving.
Sweet, herbaceous, and slightly floral, it offers a smooth mint scent, tempered by floral, fruity, notes. The scent is known to be calming and relaxing.
Sweet, sharp, minty, fresh, camphoraceous aroma, it is distilled from the bark. It has powerful pain relieving, anti-inflammatory, and antispasmodic properties, which makes it great for use on the joints and muscles. Exercise caution when using it though, as birch oil can sometimes irritate the skin. It should always be used carefully and in the correct dilution.
An excellent oil for insect control and pain management. Its high camphor content also makes a great clearing oil in skin care.
Cedarwood is steam distilled from the wood. It is soft, smooth, and grounding. and uplifting, yet calming. The fragrance is delicate and sweet with a woody undertone. It is known for its detoxing uses, where it offers a gentle stimulating effect, and the breakdown and elimination of toxins, including fatty build up, as in cellulite. It is also effective on sore muscles and joints, and it is an upper and lower respiratory decongestant.
On the skin, it is a miracle worker and calms red, dry, and irritated skin, as well as calming skin allergies, such as eczema, psoriasis and all other flaky skin problems. It is also a great tissue regenerator. Chamomile has the highest content of chamazulene, which makes it very anti-inflammatory. Its scent has a warm, somewhat sweet, herbaceous note that blends well with most flower oils, most of the citrus oils, and all of the other herbal oils.
Clary sage essential oil assists with muscle pains, anxiety, stress, nervous tension, insomnia, menstrual problems, and PMS. On the skin, clary sage can help restore lost skin tone. The scent is fresh and herbaceous, with grassy notes that dry down into amber notes, due to high sclareol compounds.
Coriander essential oil can help assist the digestive system, ease rheumatism and arthritis pain and muscular spasm, while detoxifying the body.
This is a grounding, centering, essential oil, well-known for helping one to get emotional balance and mental clarity. On skin it can help with sluggish lymphatic conditions and circulatory treatments to eliminate toxins from the system. The scent is very evergreen with some herbaceous notes.
This oil is an intensely clean, refreshing, and uplifting oil. It is commonly used to treat upper respiratory conditions. It is also a great choice for muscle pain.
Fennel essential oil has a sweet, earthy, aniselike aroma. It is a good skin tonic and can be beneficial for dull, and tired skin. It can also help with puffy areas (i.e., eyes and thighs), as it helps to reduce water retention.
This oil is used to rejuvenate skin and encourage skin cell growth. It is also effective in healing sores and wounds, and helps to reduce scarring and skin inflammation. Frankincense soothes and calms the mind. The scent is fresh and earthy, reminiscent of incense and has a slight sweetness that is both warm and deep. In perfumery it can be a powerful bridge note to tie the components together and prevent individual notes from standing out.
This oil has the ability to flush fluids out of tissues, making it a great choice for cellulite and fluid retention problems. It is also a great choice for congested, oily, skin where it can help balance and cleanse the skin without causing the skin to overreact and create more oil. Its scent is fresh and tart, with smooth citrus notes.
This oil is known for it is superior antihematoma and scar healing benefits. It is a powerful circulation enhancer and skin regenerator, and it is great for the treatment of bruises and poor circulation. The scent is warm, herbaceous, and slightly sweet.
This oil has diuretic effects that help alleviate fluid retention. It has disinfectant and purifying actions and is often combined with white sage for spiritual clearing and cleansing. It also improves circulation and can help with muscle aches, since it helps eliminate lactic acid buildup at the heart of pain and inflammation. The scent is fresh and uplifting with woody notes.
A hybrid from true lavender and spike lavender. Very similar to lavender, but smell is a bit more camphorus.
As an essential oil it soothes the spirit, relieves insomnia, and relieves muscular spasms. Lavender Absolute stimulates the growth of new skin cells and tones the skin. It is a must have in the first aid kit and is one of the few oils that can be applied “neat” (directly to the skin without dilution).
This oil has an uplifting and refreshing effect as well as relieving some anxiety and stress. On skin, it helps with cleansing and keeping oily skin under control. The scent is bright and fresh.
Menthol crystals are an organic compound obtained from peppermint or other mint oils. It is solid at room temperature and melts slightly above. Menthol is used for its local anesthetic and counterirritant qualities.
This oil often combined with Frankincense for meditation and reflection. On skin it is nurturing to mature and dry skin, and offers some tightening and smoothing properties. The scent is deep, earthy, and slightly balsamic.
This oil has a sharp, spicy, and rather musky aroma. It has been shown to be a good anti-inflammatory that is successful in relieving pain, especially muscular aches and pain, as well as rheumatism.
This oil’s gentle, clarifying nature cheers the heart and brightens the mood. It is a great choice for oily and congested skin where it can help remove excess oil without over drying. It is also a popular oil for cleaning products.
This oil is well-known for its use as an antiviral, due to it is high geraniol content. Geraniol is one of the most powerful of nature’s antivirals. On skin, it is great for sensitive and antiaging blends. The scent is sweet, warm, slightly green, and bit roselike. It is a nice addition to any floral blends.
This oil has a very calming effect on emotions. Works well on dry skin and hair. In scent blends it helps give the blend some staying power.
This oil has a soothing effect on the nervous system by relieving tension and irritation. It works well as a decongestant, helping to open up completely blocked sinuses. Great headache reliever.
This oil has antimicrobial and decongesting benefits. It also helps relieve aches and pains associated with muscle tension. The scent is woody, but with depth and sweetness.
This absolute has excellent emollient and hydrating properties, helping the skin stay soft and properly moisturized. It is also a stimulating oil, which is great for fighting aging and maintaining a soft, dewy, and youthful complexion.
This oil is great for detoxing, energy, as well as any treatment products geared toward pain relief. The scent is herbaceous and woody and blends well with other conifers and the mints.
This oil is known for its supportive effect on tissue, being effective for dry, chapped, cracked skin, rashes, and acne. The scent is sweet and woody with warm and rich notes. It also has a definite musky note.
This oil has detoxing capabilities, working to eliminate lactic acid buildup in tissue, which is at the heart of aching, sore, muscles. The scent has a coniferous note and is clean, sweet, and slightly green.
This oil has an uplifting and refreshing effect as well as relieving some anxiety and stress. On skin, it helps with cleansing and keeping oily skin under control. The scent is bright, fresh, and sweet, and gives blends a lift.
This oil is another one for the first aid kit. It is one of the most active antiseptic oils available. It soothes insect bites, calms inflammation, acts as an immune system stimulant, and is an effective broad antimicrobial agent against bacteria, mold, and fungus.
This is the carbon dioxide extract of the vanilla bean. Vanilla has few actual therapeutic benefits, but is important for its fragrance. It is calming, soothing, and it works well in romantic and aphrodisiac blends. The scent is smooth, sweet, and exotic.
This oil is well-known for having a calming effect on the psyche. It is a great choice for any blends geared toward mental health or depression. On skin it is great for mature, damaged, and dry skin. The scent is deep and earthy with just a touch of sweetness. In perfumery it is a powerful scent fixative.
This oil is known as a relaxation aid that reduces stress and tension. On the skin, ylang ylang oil has a soothing effect and it is often used to even out over-dry as well as overly oily skin by balancing the secretion of sebum. Its deep and exotic scent has a definite sweetness and smoothness, making it popular in perfumes.