Banana-Cocoa Muffins • Birdseed Muffins
Blueberry-Almond Muffins • Bobka Muffins
Bran Muffins • Browned Butter–Pecan Muffins
Crotin de Chocolat • Italian Dried-Plum Muffins
Muffins are the simpletons of the cake world. No fancy tricks, tools, or ingredients are required. Electric mixers and food processors do speed up your prep time, but are by no means a necessity. As long as you have a bowl, a baking tin, and an oven, you’ll succeed.
Don’t confuse these muffins with the mass-produced, generic-formula muffin. Thoughtfully tailored around specific flavors and ingredients, each one of these is unique and different from the next. In one recipe, browned butter intensifies the nuttiness of the pecans and balances the sweetness of the dates. In another, buttermilk does its job by enhancing the tanginess of the lemon and ginger. At the store, we have a huge audience to please. We always make sure there is a little something for everyone. Banana-Cocoa Muffins, not too rich and not too chocolatey, are heavenly to kids, but grown-ups enjoy the intensely chocolate Crotin de Chocolat. The healthy, wholesome customer will of course request the Bran Muffin, sweetened with pureed raisins and made with plenty of bran. And as for the traditionalist, there’s always the Blueberry-Almond, a better version of the all-American blueberry muffin.
A muffin shouldn’t just taste good; it has to look good too. There’s nothing worse than dry, matte-looking muffins, appearing stale as soon as they come out of the oven. A simple streusel topping or glaze instantly transforms a plain muffin into an irresistible delight. Toppings also add texture, flavor, and sometimes a sneak preview of what’s to come. The Italian Dried-Plum Muffin is crowned with brandy-soaked prunes and speckled with cinnamon-sugar. Lemon-Ginger Muffins look as moist as they taste with a soaking of lemon juice and a dainty drizzle of white glaze.
Another attraction of these miniature cakes is their intimate scale and individual size. I’m not a big fan of those oversize, King Kong muffins littering the countertops of coffee bars and convenience stores. I get full just looking at them. At the bakery, we prefer the standard ½-cup-capacity muffin tin, which produces a muffin that is just the right size.
All of the batters can be made up to a few days ahead. The quickest method to fill the tins is by using a pastry bag with a ¾-inch-wide opening. If you don’t have one, simply spoon the batter into the tins. After the muffins come out of the oven, allow them to cool before you remove them from the tins.
Generally considered a morning sweet, these charming little cakes rise to the occasion as a last-minute dessert.
IF IT’S KIDS YOU’RE TRYING TO PLEASE, THE DYNAMIC DUO OF BANANA AND chocolate never fails. These muffins don’t rise as high as the others, but after one bite, you’ll have no regrets.
Special Items: ½-CUP-CAPACITY MUFFIN TIN, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
PASTRY BAG FITTED WITH A WIDE TIP, OPTIONAL
FOR GARNISHING:
½ cup (4 ounces) pecans
FOR THE MUFFINS:
5 extra-large eggs
1¼ cups vegetable oil
4 to 6 very ripe bananas, to equal 2½ cups mashed banana puree
3¾ cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
3⅓ cups granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 cup unsweetened imported cocoa powder
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
Spread the pecans on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until lightly browned, about 8 to 10 minutes. Shake the pan halfway through to ensure that the nuts toast evenly. Cool, coarsely chop, and set aside.
Turn the oven up to 350 degrees.
In a small bowl combine the eggs and oil and stir in the banana puree.
In a large bowl, sift to combine the flour, sugar, baking soda, baking powder, and cocoa powder. Make a large well in the center and pour in the banana mixture. Gradually draw in the dry ingredients, whisking until incorporated.
Fill the pastry bag half full and pipe or spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tins to two-thirds full. Sprinkle 2 teaspoons of the pecans over the top of each.
Bake for 15 minutes, until firm to the touch.
Yield: 12 muffins
WHY BIRDSEED MUFFINS? THE ANSWER IS OBVIOUS: THESE NUTTY, CRUNCHY muffins have all of those healthy, seedy tidbits that your parakeet loves to pick at.
Special Items: ½-CUP-CAPACITY MUFFIN TIN, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
PASTRY BAG FITTED WITH A WIDE TIP, OPTIONAL
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons (6 ounces) shelled, unsalted sunflower seeds
½ cup rolled oats
2 tablespoons wheat germ
¼ cup millet
¼ cup sesame seeds
1 tablespoon flax seeds
1½ cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup stone-ground whole-wheat flour
1¼ teaspoons baking powder
½ teaspoon baking soda
¼ teaspoon kosher salt
1 tablespoon poppy seeds
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes
½ cup granulated sugar
2 extra-large eggs, beaten
¼ cup mild-flavored honey, such as clover
1¼ cups buttermilk
FOR THE TOPPING:
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
2 tablespoons flax seeds
2 tablespoons millet
2 tablespoons poppy seeds
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
To prepare the batter: Spread the sunflower seeds, oats, and wheat germ in rows on a baking sheet. On another baking sheet, spread the millet, the sesame seeds, and the flax seeds in rows. Toast both sheets in the oven for 6 to 8 minutes, until lightly toasted. Allow to cool.
Turn the oven up to 350 degrees.
In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, combine the sunflower seeds, wheat germ, flours, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Process until the sunflower seeds have the same consistency as the flour. Add the toasted oats, millet, sesame seeds, flax seeds, and poppy seeds and pulse on and off a few times, just to combine.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter on low, 2 to 3 minutes, until softened. Add the sugar and mix on medium, about 2 to 3 minutes, until light and fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the eggs, 1 tablespoon at a time, mixing well between each addition.
Turn the mixer to medium-low, and add the honey. Slowly pour in the buttermilk, mixing until incorporated. Add the flour mixture in 3 batches, turning the mixer off before each addition and mixing on low until combined.
To prepare the topping: In a small bowl, toss together the seeds. Sprinkle ½ teaspoon of the topping into the bottom of each prepared muffin cup. Fill the pastry bag half full and pipe or spoon the batter into the muffin tin, filling the cups completely to the rim. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the topping over the surface of each muffin.
Bake for about 25 minutes, until firm and golden brown.
Yield: 18 muffins
NO MUFFIN CHAPTER WOULD BE COMPLETE WITHOUT THE UBIQUITOUS BLUEBERRY muffin recipe. The ground almonds and crunchy almond topping just might sway you away from your old family favorite. Don’t stop at blueberries; all other berries are delicious, and so are nectarines, peaches, and pears.
Special Items: ½-CUP-CAPACITY MUFFIN TIN, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
PASTRY BAG FITTED WITH A WIDE TIP, LARGE ENOUGH TO ACCOMMODATE THE FRUIT, OPTIONAL
½ cup (3 ounces) whole unblanched almonds
¾ cup granulated sugar
1 stick plus 2 tablespoons (5 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 tablespoon finely chopped orange zest (about half of an orange)
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder
¾ teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon kosher salt
3 extra-large eggs, lightly beaten
1½ cups buttermilk
3 cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
2 cups blueberries or 1 to 1½ cups chopped strawberries, nectarines, peaches, or pears (½-inch chunks)
FOR THE TOPPING:
1 tablespoon egg white (½ extra-large egg white)
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
Pinch of ground cinnamon
A few gratings of fresh nutmeg
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (about 2 ounces) sliced unblanched almonds
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
To prepare the batter: Spread the whole almonds on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until lightly browned, about 15 to 20 minutes. Shake the pan halfway through to ensure that the nuts toast evenly.
Turn the oven up to 350 degrees.
In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, combine the almonds with half of the granulated sugar and process until it’s the consistency of a fine meal.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter, orange zest, baking powder, baking soda, and salt on low, 2 to 3 minutes, until softened. Add the remaining sugar and ground nut mixture, and mix on medium about 3 to 4 minutes, until light and fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the eggs, 1 tablespoon at a time, mixing well between each addition. Slowly, pour in the buttermilk and mix on medium, just to combine.
Add the flour in 3 batches, turning the mixer off before each addition and mixing on low until just combined.
Remove the bowl from the mixer and fold in the fruit.
To prepare the topping: In a small bowl, whisk the egg white until frothy. Add the sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and almonds.
Fill the pastry bag half full and pipe or spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tin, filling the cups to the rim. Spoon about a tablespoon of topping over each muffin, concentrating the almonds in the center of each muffin.
Bake for about 20 to 25 minutes, until the topping is nicely browned and the muffin is firm to the touch. If the batter has cracked through the topping, gently press it down with your fingertips to deflate.
Yield: 12 muffins
THESE HAVE ALL THE SWEET, YEASTY FLAVOR AND IRRESISTIBLY TENDER TEXTURE of a Russian Coffee Cake, but they’re baked into individual muffins. Yet another good reason to save those chocolate cake or cookie crumbs to use in the filling.
Special Item: ½-CUP-CAPACITY MUFFIN TIN, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
1 recipe Russian Coffee Cake, following the directions for free-form coffee cakes up to the point of forming the 24-inch log and sealing it
FOR THE TOPPING:
1¼ cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup granulated sugar
½ teaspoon kosher salt
¾ teaspoon baking powder
5 tablespoons (2½ ounces) unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch pieces and frozen
1 extra-large egg
Slice the log into fourteen 1½-inch pieces. Working with one slice at a time, tuck the tail end of dough in between the coil, gently pinching it to ensure that it sticks. Place the slice, tail side down, in the prepared muffin tin.
Set aside in a warm place for about 2 hours, until doubled in size and soft and spongy to the touch.
Meanwhile, to prepare the topping: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, or in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder. Add the butter and pulse on and off or mix on low until it’s the consistency of a coarse meal.
In a small bowl, whisk the egg. Measure out 2 tablespoons for brushing on the muffins, and set aside.
Transfer the butter mixture to a large bowl. Pour in the egg and gradually draw in the dry ingredients, mixing to incorporate. It should be crumbly and uneven. Chill until ready to use.
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Brush the surface of the muffins with the reserved egg and sprinkle 2 tablespoons topping over each one.
Bake for 30 minutes, until firm to the touch.
Yield: 14 muffins
EVERY BAKER HAS HER VERSION OF A BRAN MUFFIN, AND I HAVE MINE. MOST recipes call for sweetened bran cereals and lots of sugar, defeating the purpose of this healthier style of muffin. I make mine the way they should be, with lots of toasted unprocessed bran and pureed raisins. When toasted, bran adds a distinctive, nutty flavor. The cooked and pureed raisins saturate the muffins, giving them their unusually dark color and moist, fruity quality.
I think you’ll like this recycled classic of mine, and if you don’t believe me, ask the dessert and muffin maven herself, Maida Heatter. She says they’re the best she’s ever had.
Special Items: ½-CUP-CAPACITY MUFFIN TIN, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
PASTRY BAG FITTED WITH A WIDE TIP, OPTIONAL
2 cups unprocessed bran
1½ cups raisins
1½ cups water
½ cup buttermilk
1 teaspoon orange zest, finely chopped (about one-third of an orange)
½ cup light brown sugar, lightly packed
½ cup vegetable oil
1 extra-large egg
1 extra-large egg white
½ cup unbleached all-purpose flour
¼ cup stone-ground whole-wheat flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
½ teaspoon kosher salt
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Spread the bran on a baking sheet and toast for 6 to 8 minutes, until toasted, stirring halfway through to ensure that it doesn’t burn.
In a small saucepan, stir together 1 cup of the raisins and 1 cup of the water and simmer on low heat until the water is absorbed, about 15 minutes. Place in a blender or in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, and process until pureed.
Pour the bran into a large bowl, add the buttermilk and remaining ½ cup of water, and stir to combine. Stir in the raisin puree, orange zest, and brown sugar.
Add the oil, whole egg, and egg white, mixing well to incorporate.
Sift the flours, baking powder, baking soda, and salt into the raisin mixture. Add the remaining whole raisins and stir to combine.
Fill the pastry bag half full and pipe or spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tins, filling the cups to just over the rim and mounding the batter slightly.
Bake for about 25 minutes, until the muffins are well browned and firm to the touch.
Yield: 10 muffins
IN CASE YOU HAVEN’T NOTICED, I HAVE A THING FOR BROWNED BUTTER. I’VE never seen a muffin recipe that called for it, so I figured it was about time. When you brown the butter with a vanilla bean, the butter takes on a unique, nutty richness and is a truly perfect accompaniment to the dates and pecans.
Special Items: ½-CUP-CAPACITY MUFFIN TIN, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
PASTRY BAG FITTED WITH A WIDE TIP, OPTIONAL
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (5 ounces) pecans
2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter
1 vanilla bean
10 large soft Medjool dates
¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar
2½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon kosher salt
1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon
¾ cup light brown sugar, lightly packed
1 cup buttermilk
2 extra-large eggs
FOR THE STREUSEL TOPPING:
2 tablespoons of the toasted pecans
3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons light brown sugar, lightly packed
1 tablespoon of the browned butter
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
Spread the pecans on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until lightly browned, about 8 to 10 minutes. Shake the pan halfway through to ensure that the nuts toast evenly. Allow to cool, measure out 1 cup for the batter, and set aside the remaining 2 tablespoons for the topping.
Turn the oven up to 350 degrees.
To prepare the batter: In a medium saucepan, over medium-high heat, begin to melt the butter. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the butter. Swirl the pan to ensure the butter cooks evenly and doesn’t burn. It will bubble somewhat vigorously as it browns. Continue cooking 3 to 5 more minutes until the bubbles subside and the liquid is dark brown with a nutty, toasty aroma. Remove the vanilla bean. Measure out ¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon of the butter and dark flecks and allow to cool completely. Set the remaining browned butter aside for the topping and to brush the tops of the muffins.
Cut the dates in half, remove the pits, and slice into thin slivers. Set aside.
In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, combine 1 cup of nuts with half of the granulated sugar and process until it’s the consistency of a fine meal. Add the remaining sugar, the flour, baking powder, salt, cinnamon, and brown sugar and pulse to combine.
Transfer to a large bowl and make a well in the center. Pour in the buttermilk, eggs, and ¾ cup plus 1 tablespoon of the browned butter, and whisk together. Gradually draw in the dry ingredients, whisking until incorporated. Stir in the dates and set aside.
To prepare the topping: Chop the remaining 2 tablespoons of pecans. In a small bowl, combine the flour and brown sugar. Add 1 tablespoon of the reserved browned butter and stir in the pecans.
Fill the pastry bag half full and pipe or spoon the batter into the prepared muffin tin, filling the cups to the rim. Brush the tops with the remaining browned butter and sprinkle about 1 teaspoon of topping over each.
Bake for 35 minutes, until topping is browned and crisp.
Yield: 12 muffins
CROTIN DE CHOCOLAT: “THE ULTIMATE CUPCAKE FOR GROWN-UPS.”
I DON’T RECOMMEND THESE WITH YOUR FIRST CUP OF COFFEE IN THE MORNING, but I do recommend them as an afternoon pick-me-up. Dense without being heavy, and rich without being sweet, this could be the ultimate cupcake for grown-ups. For the true chocoholic, add an extra 2 ounces of chopped chocolate.
Special Items: ½-CUP-CAPACITY MUFFIN TIN, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
PASTRY BAG FITTED WITH A WIDE TIP, OPTIONAL
1 tablespoon (0.6 ounce) packed fresh yeast or 2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast
1 cup plus ½ teaspoon granulated sugar
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons lukewarm water
1½ cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup 2 tablespoons unsweetened imported cocoa powder, plus extra for dusting the tops
2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
4 extra-large eggs, lightly beaten
1 cup coarsely chopped bittersweet chocolate (6 ounces), or more according to taste
Place the yeast in a small bowl. Sprinkle in ½ teaspoon of the sugar and pour the water over to soften a few minutes. Stir in ¾ cup of the flour and cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap. Set aside in a warm place until it becomes bubbly, about 30 minutes.
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
In a large bowl, sift to combine the cocoa powder and the remaining sugar and flour.
Make a large well in the center and pour in the butter, eggs, and yeast mixture. Whisk together the liquids and gradually draw in the dry ingredients, whisking until incorporated. Stir in the chocolate.
Fill the pastry bag half full and pipe or spoon the batter into the muffin tin, filling the cups to the rim.
Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until almost firm to the touch.
While slightly warm, sift a fine layer of cocoa powder over the surface.
Yield: 12 muffins
ONE OF MY FAVORITE COMBINATIONS IS PRUNES AND BRANDY. UNFORTUNATELY, most people turn their noses up when they hear the word prune. As far as I’m concerned, a prune is a prune is a prune. But, when we call them by a fancier name—say, “Italian dried plums”—not as many noses turn upward.
At least 1 day ahead, soak the prunes by covering them in brandy. Stored in an airtight container, they will keep indefinitely at room temperature. The strength of the brandy mellows after time and cuts through the richness of the prunes.
Special Items: ½-CUP-CAPACITY MUFFIN TIN, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
PASTRY BAG FITTED WITH A WIDE TIP, WIDE ENOUGH TO ACCOMMODATE THE FRUIT, OPTIONAL
½ cup brandy
29 soft, plump pitted prunes
2½ cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
¾ cup granulated sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 tablespoons finely ground coffee
2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes and frozen
1½ cups plain yogurt
2 extra-large eggs
1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract
FOR THE TOPPING:
3 teaspoons granulated sugar
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
In a small saucepan over medium heat, warm the brandy for a few minutes. Place the prunes in a bowl and pour the brandy over them. Add a touch more brandy if necessary to cover the prunes. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and soak the prunes overnight or longer.
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
To prepare the batter: Over a small bowl, strain the prunes through a fine-mesh sieve, setting aside the remaining brandy for another use. Slice the prunes into quarters, and set aside 36 slices to top the muffins.
In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, or in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, baking soda, and ground coffee, and process or mix on low to incorporate. Add the butter and pulse on and off, or mix on low, until it’s the consistency of a fine meal.
Transfer the mixture to a large bowl and make a well in the center. Pour in the yogurt, eggs, and vanilla extract, and whisk the liquids together. Gradually draw in the dry ingredients and mix to combine. Stir in the sliced prunes.
To prepare the topping: In a small bowl combine the sugar and cinnamon.
Fill the pastry half full and pipe or spoon the batter into the muffin tins, filling the cups to the rim. Place 3 pieces of sliced prune on top of each muffin and sprinkle with a pinch of cinnamon-sugar topping.
Bake for about 25 minutes, until lightly browned and slightly firm to the touch.
Yield: 12 muffins
BY SOAKING THE MUFFINS IN LEMON JUICE AND SUGAR AFTER THEY’RE BAKED, you get a super-moist, super-lemony, and super-yummy muffin.
Special Items: ½-CUP-CAPACITY MUFFIN TIN, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
PASTRY BAG FITTED WITH WIDE TIP, OPTIONAL
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon finely chopped lemon zest (about 1 lemon)
1 teaspoon baking soda
2 tablespoons grated fresh ginger, approximately one 2-inch piece
1 cup granulated sugar
2 extra-large eggs
1 cup buttermilk
2 cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
FOR SOAKING THE MUFFINS:
¼ cup lemon juice (1 to 2 lemons)
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
FOR THE GLAZE:
½ cup powdered sugar, sifted
2½ teaspoons water
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
To prepare the batter: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter, lemon zest, baking soda, and ginger on low, 2 to 3 minutes, until combined. Add the sugar and turn the mixer up to medium, mixing another 2 to 3 minutes, until light and fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed.
In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs and buttermilk.
Add the flour and the egg mixture to the butter mixture alternately in 3 batches, turning the mixer off before each addition and mixing on low to combine.
Fill a pastry bag half full and pipe or spoon the batter into the muffin tin, filling the cups two-thirds full.
Bake until firm to the touch, about 30 minutes. Allow to cool.
To prepare the soaking liquid: In a bowl, combine the lemon juice and sugar. Dip the top portion of the muffin three-quarters of the way into the liquid.
To prepare the glaze: In a small bowl, combine the powdered sugar and water.
Place the muffins on a work surface. Dip the fingers of one hand into the bowl of glaze. Holding your hand just above the muffin, quickly move it back and forth to drizzle the glaze over the surface, allowing it to run down the sides. Continue with the remaining muffins.
Yield: 15 muffins
WHEN YOU’RE IN THE MOOD FOR A MUFFIN THAT’S NOT TOO SWEET, THESE will do the trick. Hearty and satisfying, they have a hint of fennel and you’ll be surprised by the rich and creamy ricotta center.
Special Items: ½-CUP-CAPACITY MUFFIN TIN, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
PASTRY BAG FITTED WITH A WIDE TIP, OPTIONAL
FOR GARNISHING:
½ cup (2 ounces) walnuts or pecans
FOR THE BATTER:
2 teaspoons fennel seeds
3 cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
¾ cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon baking powder
¾ teaspoon baking soda
1½ cups plain yogurt
¾ cup vegetable oil
FOR THE FILLING:
½ cup (4 ounces) ricotta cheese
6 tablespoons crème fraîche or sour cream
Kosher salt to taste
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.
Spread the nuts on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until lightly browned, about 8 to 10 minutes. Shake the pan halfway through to ensure that the nuts toast evenly. Cool, chop finely, and set aside.
Turn the oven up to 350 degrees.
To prepare the batter: In a small sauté pan, over medium-low heat, toast the fennel seeds, stirring occasionally until they become aromatic and turn slightly brown, about 2 to 3 minutes. Allow to cool and finely chop, crush, or grind them in a spice grinder or clean coffee grinder.
In a large bowl, sift to combine the flour, sugar, baking powder, and baking soda. Sprinkle in the fennel seeds. Make a large well in the center and pour in the yogurt and oil. Whisk together the liquids and gradually draw in the dry ingredients, mixing until incorporated.
To prepare the filling: Place the ricotta in a mixing bowl and break it up a little with a rubber spatula to loosen. Stir in the crème fraîche and salt.
Fill the pastry bag half full and pipe or spoon the batter into the muffin tin, filling the cups one-third full. Place about 1 tablespoon of the filling into the center of each muffin. Pipe or spoon the remaining batter into the cups, filling them to just below the rim. Sprinkle about 1 teaspoon of the nuts over the top of each.
Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until lightly browned and firm to the touch.
Yield: 12 muffins
THESE SPICY, MOIST MUFFINS ARE BRIGHT ORANGE LIKE A PUMPKIN, WITH all of the sweet goodness of baked yams. I couldn’t decide which variation I liked better, the currants cooked in brandy, or the dried cranberries. I’ve included both, so you can decide for yourself.
Special Items: ½-CUP-CAPACITY MUFFIN TIN, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER
PASTRY BAG FITTED WITH A WIDE TIP, OPTIONAL
2 to 3 (½ pound) Jewel or Garnet yams
¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons currants or dried cranberries
¼ cup brandy (if using currants)
2 cups plus 2 tablespoons unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour
½ cup granulated sugar
½ cup light brown sugar, lightly packed
¼ teaspoon baking powder
¼ teaspoon baking soda
Scant ½ teaspoon kosher salt
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
¼ teaspoon ground cloves
Scant ½ teaspoon ground ginger
½ cup vegetable oil
2 extra-large eggs, lightly beaten
FOR THE TOPPING:
½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (3 ounces) hulled pumpkin seeds
½ extra-large egg white, about 1 tablespoon
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
Pinch of ground cloves
A few gratings of fresh nutmeg
Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
To prepare the batter: Place the yams directly on the oven rack and bake them until they are very soft and starting to burst, about 45 minutes to an hour. Allow to cool, remove the skins, and set aside.
Turn the oven down to 325 degrees.
In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, puree the yams. Measure out 1½ cups of the puree and store the leftovers for another use.
Spread the pumpkin seeds on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until lightly toasted, puffed up, but still green, about 8 to 10 minutes. Shake the pan halfway through to ensure that the seeds toast evenly. Cool and chop very coarsely.
Turn the oven up to 350 degrees.
If you’re using currants, place them in a small saucepan with the brandy and simmer over low heat until the liquid evaporates, about 3 to 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. If you’re using cranberries, chop them coarsely and set aside.
In a large mixing bowl, sift to combine the flour, sugars, baking powder, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, and ginger. Make a large well in the center and pour in the oil, eggs, and 1½ cups yam puree. Whisk together the liquid ingredients and slowly draw in the dry ingredients, mixing until combined. Stir in the currants or cranberries.
Fill the pastry bag half full and pipe or spoon the batter into the muffin tin, filling the cups to the rim.
To prepare the topping: In a small bowl, whisk the egg white until frothy. Add the sugar, cloves, nutmeg, and pumpkin seeds.
Spoon about 1 tablespoon of the topping over each muffin, spreading to evenly cover the surface.
Bake for 25 minutes, until the muffins are firm to the touch and the tops are nicely browned and crunchy.
Yield: 10 muffins