Nancy Silverton’s Pastries from the La Brea Bakery

If you’ve ever walked the streets of Paris in the early morning hours, then you’ve probably smelled that irresistible aroma wafting up through sidewalk grills from underground. What you might not realize is that you’re standing above the workshop of a French bakery, where the day’s hot pastries are being pulled out of the ovens. Down below, small armies of bakers work in subterranean kitchens, preparing for the masses who arrive every morning to retrieve their breakfast of a croissant, a brioche, or maybe a raisin roll; eating baked breakfast treats is a national pastime for the French. Meanwhile, kilos of dough are proofing as busy hands pat and roll, fold and turn, and shape, coil, and curl what will be tomorrow’s morning treats. They’re impossible to resist, so just follow your nose. Whether you come out with a traditional croissant, an apple turnover, or any one of the multitudes of these morning pastries, you can be sure that they all share that memorable smell of sweet, buttery yeasted pastry.

Three main categories of doughs make up this chapter’s morning pastries. Croissants and Danish Dough are made with yeast and layered with butter. Brioche and Bobka also have yeast, but in their case the butter is mixed directly into the dough. That leaves Puff Pastry, the crispiest, flakiest dough of all. Yeast-free, it gets its rise from repeated folding and layering of the buttery dough.

No matter which dough or method, these classic pastries are all about butter. Not margarine—butter! My preference is imported Normandy butter. It’s high in butterfat with a low water content, a deep yellow color, and unmistakably superior flavor. Look for it in specialty markets or ask your local cheese seller to track some down for you. Some of the best domestic butters are made by small dairies across the country: Strauss Family Creamery on the West Coast and Egg Farm Dairy on the East Coast are two good choices. Supermarket varieties such as Plugra and Land O Lakes are also good quality and widely available.

Butter, when folded into dough, acts as the separating agent, miraculously turning a solid slab into hundreds of flaky layers. For butter to work its magic, a few simple rules must be applied. Do your preparation in a cool room, preferably on a chilled work surface that’s large enough to accommodate the dough as you roll it out. Most important, the dough and butter must be the same consistency; neither one should be colder or harder than the other. To be sure, beat the butter and knead it by hand or soften it in a mixer with the paddle attachment. The butter should remain cool but malleable. If it’s too soft and greasy, it will ooze out of the dough; if it’s too firm, it might break through the dough. As you roll it out, work quickly and handle the dough as little as possible, so the heat of your hands doesn’t melt the butter. Allow the dough its resting time for easy, stress-free rolling and to help maintain the layers.

The buttery doughs that get an extra boost from yeast need time to rise, or, as we say in the baking world, proof. Proofing time will vary, depending on the weather, the temperature of your kitchen, and the size of the dough. Keep an eye on your dough—when it’s slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, it’s ready to be baked.

All of these doughs have a fairly long shelf life when properly stored. Yeasted doughs should never be kept longer than one to two days in the refrigerator; they become overly sour and the yeast loses its strength. They can, however, be divided in half and frozen for up to two months. The method I prefer is to make the dough, assemble the pastries, and freeze them. When you’re ready to bake they must be brought up to room temperature (or defrosted in the refrigerator overnight) and then allowed to proof. Puff Pastry, with all that butter, will also keep only a couple of days in the refrigerator before spotting and turning gray. For longer storage of Puff Pastry, it also must be frozen. However, these pastries made from Puff Pastry (and those made with cream cheese dough) can be assembled, frozen, and baked directly out of the freezer.

Take a deep breath and set aside your old fears and preconceived notions. Don’t be afraid to get the pages of this chapter good and messy, and remember to organize your time and resist the temptation to take shortcuts. This is not as difficult as you think. The satisfaction of baking these elegant pastries definitely outweighs the time and effort required. They are the classics of European pastry-making, as well as the heart and soul of our pastries at La Brea Bakery.

BOBKA PASTRIES

MORNING PASTRIES MADE FROM THIS SWEET YEASTED DOUGH CAN BE AS satisfying as those made from Croissant or Danish dough, but without the extra time and effort of rolling and folding in the butter. Like a pie dough, Bobka Dough comes together in minutes. Chill overnight (or freeze for longer storage) and use this rich and buttery dough to make a homey Russian Coffee Cake, Chocolate Armadillos, Bobka Muffins, or a not quite as flaky Cinnamon Bun.

Bobka Dough

2 tablespoons (1 ounce) packed fresh yeast or 1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon active dry yeast

½ cup whole milk, cold

3 cups plus 3 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour

¼ cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

12 gratings fresh whole nutmeg

¼ teaspoon baking powder

2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into ½-inch cubes

2 extra-large eggs, lightly beaten

Place the yeast in a medium bowl and pour the milk over to soften for a few minutes.

In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, or in an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flour, sugar, salt, nutmeg, and baking powder, and pulse or mix on low to incorporate. Add the butter and pulse on and off or mix on low until it’s the consistency of a coarse meal, with pieces about the size of garbanzo beans.

Whisk the eggs into the yeast mixture and add to the flour mixture. Pulse a few times or mix on low until the dough barely comes together.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead a few times to form a ball. Pat the dough into an oval about ½ inch thick, and fold all 4 sides into the center to form a rough rectangle. Dust the surface of the dough with flour, turn the dough over and roll it out to an 8 × 9-inch rectangle, ¾ inch thick. Wrap in plastic and chill at least 6 to 8 hours, or overnight.

Yield: 2 pounds

Chocolate Armadillos

YOU MAY HAVE SEEN THESE AT YOUR LOCAL JEWISH DELI UNDER THE GUISE OF Chocolate Cigars, but I can promise you, those aren’t as good as these (and neither is the name). With some help from my old friend Izzy Cohen, these are as tasty as an armadillo could be.

Save your old chocolate cake crumbs or stale Brownies in the freezer or make a batch of Chocolate Madeleines in a cake pan to grind up and use in the filling. Once you’ve spread the filling, roll them up at an angle, in the shape of an extended paper Chinese yo-yo. For a super rich and gooey center, add more chocolate to the filling.

1 recipe (2 pounds) Bobka Dough, chilled

1 cup crème fraîche or sour cream

1 cup chocolate cake crumbs

½ cup bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

½ recipe Streusel Topping (see Breakfast Bars)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Divide the dough in half, and return one half to the refrigerator. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into an 11 × 15-inch rectangle, just under ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Trim the edges straight, saving the trimmings. Cut the trimmings into several 2- to 3-inch pieces to use as reinforcement strips when rolling the dough into armadillos.

Working with the longer side parallel to the edge of the surface, spread ½ cup of the crème fraîche over the dough. Sprinkle half of the cake crumbs and half of the chocolate over the surface and gently roll over with a rolling pin. Make nine vertical cuts 1½ inches wide and gently stretch each piece to elongate slightly. Working with one piece of dough at a time, place the end of a reinforcement strip along the bottom edge of the dough, parallel to the work surface. Using the reinforcement strip as a guide to roll the dough around, roll the dough in an upward direction, veering off to the left at a 45-degree angle. As you roll up the dough, anchor it with your thumbs, tucking it under with your index fingers to help maintain that 45-degree angle. The strip will eventually be completely encased in the roll. As you roll, gently rock back and forth, stretching the dough slightly to make a taut roll, about 4 to 5 inches long. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet and continue with the remaining pieces of dough.

Place the topping in a flat, wide container. Brush the armadillos with the melted butter and roll them in the topping to heavily coat. Place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet, topping side up, 1½ inches apart. Set aside in a warm place to proof until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 1 hour and 15 minutes.

Repeat the process with the remaining dough.

Adjust the oven rack to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Bake for about 40 minutes, until nicely browned.

Yield: 18 armadillos

Russian Coffee Cake

LAYERS OF YEASTY DOUGH SURROUND A SOUR CREAM AND CHOCOLATE CRUMB filling in this Old World classic. Whether baked free-form or in a loaf pan, it’s rich, satisfying, and dangerously addictive. If you come from the same part of the world as I do, this coffee cake will bring back happy memories of your grandmother’s kitchen.

As in the Chocolate Armadillos, save your stale Brownies, Chocolate Madeleines, or your favorite chocolate cake scraps and grind them into crumbs in a food processor for the filling.

Special Item: TWO 6-CUP-CAPACITY LOAF PANS, OPTIONAL

1 recipe (2 pounds) Bobka Dough, chilled

1 cup crème fraîche or sour cream

1 cup chocolate cake crumbs

½ cup (2½ ounces) bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

1 to 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

½ recipe (2 cups) Streusel Topping (see Breakfast Bars), chilled

For free-form coffee cakes: On a lightly floured work surface roll the dough into an 18 × 14-inch rectangle, about ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the longer side parallel to the edge of the surface, spread the crème fraîche, cake crumbs, and chocolate over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border along the bottom. Gently roll over the filling a few times with a rolling pin. Brush the bottom edge with the beaten egg.

Fold the top edge of dough over about 1 inch. Using both hands, roll the dough toward yourself, tucking it under with your thumbs to tighten and working your way across the entire log. As you tuck, gently rock the log back and forth to keep it taut and even. Rock the log back and forth to seal. Position it seam side down and trim the ends straight to about 24 inches long.

Cut the log in half. Working with one half at a time, place the longer side parallel to the edge of the surface and cut it down the center horizontally. Place one piece, filling side up, on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Place the other piece on top of that, filling side up, crossing the 2 ends on a diagonal. Twist the 2 halves around each other twice, pinching the ends together to seal. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet and repeat with the other half of the log. Set them aside in a warm place to proof until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 2½ hours. Brush the surface with melted butter and sprinkle a heavy layer of the streusel over the top before baking.

For loaves: Divide the dough in half and return one half to the refrigerator. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into an 18 × 8-inch rectangle, about ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the longer side parallel to the edge of the surface, spread half of the crème fraîche, cake crumbs, and chocolate over the surface, leaving a 1-inch border along the bottom edge. Gently roll over the filling a few times with a rolling pin. Brush the bottom edge with the beaten egg.

Roll the dough into a log in the same manner as the free-form coffee cake. With the seam side down, trim the ends straight to make a log about 20 inches long and 1¾ inches thick. On a lightly floured surface fold the log in half, wrapping it around itself twice to form a twisted loaf. Fit the loaf into the prepared pan, brush the top generously with butter and sprinkle with half the topping. Set aside in a warm place to proof until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 2½ hours. Repeat the process with the remaining dough.

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Bake the free-form cake for about 1 hour and the loaves for 1 hour and 15 minutes, until nicely browned.

Yield: 2 free-form coffee cakes or 2 loaves

BRIOCHE PASTRIES

BRIOCHE IS A TRADITIONAL FRENCH YEASTED BREAD, MOST COMMONLY baked in loaves or special fluted molds. With plenty of butter and eggs, it yields a fine-textured, rich, and moist crumb. The dough is perfect for both sweet and savory pastries such as Viennese Cream Brioche, Savory Brioche Pockets, or Pecan Sticky Buns.

If you have any substantial pieces of Brioche Dough left over, make a few Sugared Brioche by rolling or stretching the dough into free-form shapes, 1 to 1½ inches thick. Cut some slits in the shape and gently pull apart to widen the slits, or shape the dough into an oval and score a crisscross pattern on the top. Brush with egg yolk, sprinkle with sugar, and allow it to rise until slightly puffy. Bake on parchment-lined baking sheets at 350 degrees for 20 to 30 minutes, until lightly browned.

For a few ABCs of brioche making: Always make sure your butter is very soft (but not greasy) before adding it to the dough. Beware: This dough requires a lengthy mixing time to properly develop, often causing the mixer to jump around on the counter. And: Careful, don’t let your mixer overheat, and never place it too close to the edge of the counter.

Brioche Dough

Special Item: INSTA-READ THERMOMETER (OPTIONAL)

2 tablespoons (1 ounce) packed fresh yeast or 1 tablespoon active dry yeast

⅓ cup whole milk, warmed to 100–110 degrees

6 extra-large eggs

3½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour

⅓ cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter, very soft, but not greasy

Place the yeast in the bowl of an electric mixer, and pour the milk over to soften for 1–2 minutes. Add 1 of the eggs and 1 cup of the flour and stir to combine. Sprinkle 1 more cup of flour over the mixture, without stirring.

Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place until the surface of the flour cracks, about 30 to 40 minutes.

Add the sugar, salt, remaining eggs, and remaining 1½ cups of the flour to the yeast mixture. Using an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook, mix on low for 1–2 minutes, until combined. Turn the mixer up to medium-high and continue to mix for about 15 minutes, until the dough wraps itself around the hook and is smooth, shiny and slightly sticky. It may be necessary to add another tablespoon of flour to encourage the dough to leave the sides of the bowl.

Turn the mixer down to medium-low and add the butter, a few tablespoons at a time. After all of the butter has been added, turn the mixer up to medium-high and beat the dough for about 2–3 more minutes, until the dough wraps itself around the hook. If necessary, add a few pinches of flour to encourage the dough to leave the sides of the bowl. The dough will be smooth and shiny, but not oily.

Remove the dough from the bowl onto a lightly floured work surface and knead a few times to gather into a ball. Clean the mixing bowl and lightly coat it with vegetable oil. Return the dough to the oiled bowl, cover it tightly with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place until the dough has doubled in size, about 2 to 2½ hours.

Spread the dough out onto a floured parchment-lined baking sheet. Dust the surface of the dough with flour, cover with parchment paper or towels, and refrigerate for 6 to 8 hours or overnight.

Yield: 2¼ pounds

Pecan Sticky Buns

Special Item: 8 DISPOSABLE ALUMINUM POT PIE PANS (1-CUP CAPACITY), LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER, OR ¾-CUP-CAPACITY MUFFIN TIN, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER

TO COAT THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN:

¾ cup light brown sugar, lightly packed

½ cup light corn syrup

1¼ cups (4 ounces) pecan halves, about 64

1 recipe (2¼ pounds) Brioche Dough, chilled

FOR THE FILLING:

½ cup crème fraîche or sour cream

2 tablespoons (½ ounce) finely chopped pecans

1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

½ cup light brown sugar, lightly packed

In a small bowl, combine ¾ cup of the brown sugar and the corn syrup, mixing until the sugar is completely absorbed.

Place a heaping tablespoon of the mixture in the bottom of each pan or muffin cup. Arrange 6 pecan halves around the perimeter of each pan and place 2 halves in the middle.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into an 18 × 12-inch rectangle, about ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the long side parallel to the edge of the surface, spread the crème fraîche over the dough and sprinkle ½ cup brown sugar and chopped pecans over it, leaving a 1-inch border along the bottom. Brush the bottom edge with the beaten egg.

Fold the top edge of dough over about an inch. Using both hands, roll the dough toward yourself, tucking it under with your thumbs to tighten as you work your way across the entire log. As you tuck, gently rock the dough back and forth to keep it taut and even. As you get close to the bottom edge, using two fingers, smear a ½-inch edge of dough into the work surface to thin it out and ensure that the dough seals together. Roll the log onto the smeared edge and rock back and forth to seal. Position it seam side down and trim the ends to make a 20-inch log. Slice the log into eight 2-inch-wide pieces and place each cut side down into prepared tins. Set aside in a warm place to rise, until the dough fills the tin and it’s spongy to the touch, about 2 to 2½ hours.

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Place the tins on a baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes, until nicely browned.

Allow to cool slightly and invert.

Yield: 8 buns

Twice-Baked Sour Cherry Brioche

STUDDED WITH SOUR CHERRIES AND SATURATED WITH ORANGE FLOWER WATER, these mini brioche loaves are very French with an exotic North African twist. Originally they were invented as a means for bakers to recoup their losses; day-old brioche was collected, moistened, filled with almond cream, and baked again. They are now so popular at the bakery, we can no longer wait for yesterday’s stale brioche. They warrant their own fresh batch of dough and their very own shape.

I call for mini loaf pans; it’s a great individual-sized pastry. But if you don’t have them, bake the brioche in a large loaf pan, slice it, soak it, smear it, and rebake it.

Special Item: TWELVE 4 × 2½ × 1½-INCH OR ¾-CUP-CAPACITY MINI LOAF PANS, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER

1 recipe (2¼ pounds) Brioche Dough, chilled

⅓ cup (1½ ounces) dried sour cherries

FOR THE SYRUP:

1 cup water

1½ cups granulated sugar

1 vanilla bean

½ cup orange flower water (see Sources)

½ cup (1½ ounces) sliced unblanched almonds

½ recipe Almond Cream (see Almond Log)

Separate the dough into twelve approximately 3-ounce pieces. On a lightly floured work surface roll the dough into 2-inch balls. Flatten the balls into discs and press 4 to 5 cherries into the center of each. Roll up and fold the dough over, enclosing the cherries and pinching the ends together to form small oval balls. Place the ovals into the prepared pans and set aside in a warm place to rise, until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 2 to 2½ hours.

To prepare the syrup: In a medium saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the water and sugar. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the sugar mixture. Bring to a boil and cook for another minute. Remove from the heat and stir in the orange flower water.

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Spread the almonds on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until lightly browned, about 5 to 7 minutes. Shake the pan halfway through to ensure that the nuts toast evenly.

Turn the oven up to 350 degrees.

Place the loaves on a baking sheet and bake the loaves for about 20 minutes, until lightly browned but not fully cooked.

Remove from the oven and cool for 10 minutes. Remove the loaves from the pans and, using a serrated knife, slice the rounded tops off to make a flat surface. Cut the loaves in half horizontally. Brush each half with about 1½ tablespoons of the syrup. Spread 1 tablespoon of the Almond Cream over the bottom half of each loaf and sandwich the top and bottom halves back together. Spread 1 teaspoon of the Almond Cream over the top surface and 2 teaspoons around the sides of each. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet and sprinkle with 2 teaspoons of the almonds.

Bake for another 20 minutes, until nicely browned.

Yield: 12 loaves

Viennese Cream Brioche

LIKE A BABY’S HEAD NESTLED ON A FLUFFY PILLOW, THE SOFT CRÈME FRAÎCHE sinks down as the brioche rises and bakes around it. A sublime combination of flavor and texture, this super simple pastry is everyone’s favorite. Julia Child was brought to tears the first time she tasted them.

1 recipe Brioche Dough, chilled

1 stick plus 1 tablespoon (4½ ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 12 square pats

1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

¼ cup large crystallized sugar (see Sources) or granulated sugar

2 cups plus 2 tablespoons crème fraîche or sour cream

¼ cup granulated sugar

Separate the dough into twelve 3-ounce pieces. On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into 2-inch balls. Flatten the balls into 5-inch discs, about ¼ inch thick. Place on a parchment-lined baking sheet and set aside in a warm place to proof, about 1 hour, until spongy to the touch. Flip the discs over and allow them to finish rising, about 1 more hour.

Adjust the oven rack to the lower position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Press a pat of butter into the center of each disc. Brush around the rim with the beaten egg and sprinkle 1 teaspoon of the crystallized sugar around the edge. Spoon about 3 tablespoons of crème fraîche over the butter in a mound, and sprinkle 1 teaspoon of granulated sugar over it.

Place 2 inches apart on the parchment-lined baking sheet and bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until lightly browned and the center is set.

Yield: 12 brioche

CROISSANT PASTRIES

CROISSANTS PLAY A STARRING ROLE IN THE PASTRY WORLD. COMPLETE AND perfect, a well-made croissant asks for nothing else. As that buttery bite melts in your mouth, you can’t wait to pull off the next piece and devour it. One bite is never enough.

The sorcery lies in the dough. Layered with plenty of sweet butter, this yeasted concoction yields the finest, richest pastry. It’s not necessary to stop at croissants: This chameleonlike dough, when rolled, twisted, and molded into different shapes and sizes, reinvents itself over and over again. Sprinkled with cinnamon and sugar, it becomes a comforting and satisfying sweet. Though the flavors are basically the same, each unique shape and size creates a whole new pastry, the texture totally transformed. Stretched and twisted dough gives you long and skinny Cinnamon Twists. Coiled into playful Elephant Ears or Palm Leaves, these flatter shapes make a flakier, more crispy pastry. Larger shapes like the Sugar Buns or Princess Ring will be softer and squishier in texture. Add an easy walnut filling and shape the dough into triangles for Walnut Bowties. Slathered and rolled up with almond cream, Almond Snails are obscenely rich and decadent.

If you do make plain croissants, don’t even think about throwing out the stale leftovers. Turn them into a rich Croissant Bread Pudding or Twice-Baked Almond Croissants.

Croissants

Special Items: SPRAY BOTTLE FILLED WITH WATER, FOR SPRITZING THE OVEN

2 LINEN TOWELS

1½ cups whole milk

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon (1.3 ounces) packed fresh yeast or 1 tablespoon plus ¼ teaspoon active dry yeast

1 tablespoon kosher salt

¼ cup light brown sugar, lightly packed

4 to 4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour

3 sticks (12 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook, place the milk, yeast, salt, brown sugar, and 4 cups of the flour, and mix on low until the dough is smooth, about 7 minutes. The dough should be soft, but not too sticky.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead for a few minutes. Shape the dough into a rectangle, about 1½ inches thick, wrap in plastic, and chill for one hour.

Meanwhile, place the cold butter between 2 linen towels and beat it with a rolling pin to flatten into an approximate 5 × 8-inch rectangle.

On a work surface, using as little flour as possible, roll the dough into a 10 × 16-inch rectangle, ½ inch thick, lifting the dough and stretching the corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness. Working with the short side parallel to the edge of the work surface, place the butter in the middle of the dough. Fold the bottom edge up, just beyond the middle, and the top edge down to the bottom edge, as you would a letter.

Enlarge the rectangle by rolling the dough to a 10 × 15-inch rectangle, about ½ inch thick. If any of the butter oozes out, sprinkle with a touch of flour to prevent it from sticking.

Working with the longer side parallel to the edge of the surface, fold the left side over two-thirds across and then fold the right side over to meet the left edge, stretching the corners and squaring off the sides so the edges line up evenly. You have just completed your first fold. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for 1 hour.

On a lightly floured surface place the open seam to your right and roll the dough out into a 10 × 15-inch rectangle, ½ inch thick. Fold the bottom up to the middle and the top edge down to the bottom edge, to complete your second fold. Wrap the dough in plastic and allow to rest in the refrigerator for 1 hour. Place the open seam to your right and roll and fold the dough in the same manner, squaring off the edges as you roll. Allow to rest in the refrigerator for 1 hour, and repeat the rolling, folding, and resting process once more for a total of 4 times. Wrap the dough tightly in plastic and chill for at least 3 hours, but no longer than overnight.

Note: If you are using the dough for another recipe, either freeze or shape according to directions.

To shape the croissants: Divide the dough in half and return one half to the refrigerator. On a lightly floured work surface, roll it into a 12 × 16-inch rectangle, ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary, lifting the dough and stretching the corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the long side parallel to the edge of the surface, cut the dough down the center vertically and set one half aside. Place the longer side parallel to the edge of the surface and cut the dough vertically into thirds. Cut each third diagonally in half to make 2 triangles. You should have a total of 6 triangles, each with about a 4- to 5-inch base. Holding the base of one triangle in one hand and the top of the triangle in the other, stretch the dough to almost half again its length. Return the enlarged triangle to the work surface, keeping the widest end toward you. With your fingertips, tuck in the wide end of the dough to begin the roll. Continue rolling loosely toward the tip, using the heel of your hand to roll and creating tension by using your other hand to stretch the top of the triangle away from you. The dough should overlap three times with the tip sticking out from underneath.

Place the croissants 2 inches apart on a parchment-lined baking sheet and curve the ends of the croissant inward to form a crescent shape. Set aside in a warm place to rise, until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, 2 to 2½ hours.

Adjust the oven racks to the lower and upper positions and preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Open the oven door, spritz the oven heavily with water from a spray bottle, and quickly close the door. Open the oven door again and slide the baking sheets onto the racks. Spritz the oven heavily with water again and quickly close the door.

Reduce the oven temperature to 400 degrees. Refrain from opening the oven door for the next 10 minutes to allow the oven to steam.

After the first 10 minutes, rotate the baking sheets to ensure even baking. Reduce the oven temperature to 375 degrees and continue baking until the croissants are golden brown, about 8 more minutes.

Yield: 24 croissants, or about 3 pounds of dough

Almond Log

MADE FROM BUTTERY LAYERS OF CROISSANT DOUGH, THIS ELEGANT PASTRY is smeared with almond cream and doused with sliced almonds and powdered sugar. It’s the perfect solution for a brunch buffet: large, easy to serve, and pretty to look at. Just before eating, slice it into slender pieces and watch your guests swoon.

FOR THE ALMOND CREAM:

½ cup (2½ ounces) whole unblanched almonds

¼ cup granulated sugar

½ stick plus 1 tablespoon (2½ ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes

¼ cup (2 ounces) almond paste (see Sources)

1 extra-large egg

1 tablespoon rum

½ teaspoon pure almond extract

½ recipe (about 1⅓ pounds) Croissant dough, chilled

FOR DECORATING:

1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

1 cup (3 ounces) sliced unblanched almonds

Powdered sugar, for dusting

To prepare the almond cream: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, combine the almonds and half of the granulated sugar and process until it’s the consistency of a fine meal. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter on low, 1 to 2 minutes, until softened. Add the remaining sugar and the ground almond mixture, and mix on medium 2 to 3 more minutes until light and fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Crumble in the almond paste one teaspoon at a time, mixing on medium until combined. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg, rum, and almond extract. Turn the mixer to low and slowly add the liquids in a thin steady stream, mixing until incorporated. Chill until set, at least 1 hour.

On a lightly floured work surface roll the dough into a 14 × 11-inch rectangle, ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the long side parallel to the edge of the surface, spread ½ cup of the almond cream over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border along the bottom. Brush the bottom edge with the beaten egg.

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Spread the sliced almonds on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until lightly browned, about 5 to 7 minutes. Shake the pan halfway through to ensure that the nuts toast evenly.

Turn the oven up to 425 degrees.

Bake the log for 30 minutes until it just starts to color. Cool for 10 to 15 minutes and spread the remaining almond cream over the entire surface. Sprinkle the almonds over the top and bake for another 30 minutes until nicely browned.

Allow to cool, and sift a fine layer of powdered sugar over the top.

Yield: 12 slices

Almond Snails

½ recipe (about 1⅓ pounds) Croissant dough, chilled

¾ recipe (about 1¼ cups) almond cream (see Almond Log)

1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

30 to 36 (about ¼ cup or 1¼ ounces) whole unblanched almonds

Powdered sugar, for dusting

On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a 9 × 13-inch rectangle, just under ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the long side parallel to the edge of the surface, spread ¾ cup of the almond cream over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border along the bottom. Brush the bottom edge with the beaten egg.

Fold the top edge of dough over about 1 inch. Using both hands, roll the dough toward yourself, tucking it under with your thumbs to tighten as you work your way across the entire log. As you tuck, gently rock the dough back and forth to keep it taut and even. As you get close to the bottom edge, using 2 fingers, smear a ½-inch edge of the dough into the work surface to thin it out and ensure that the dough seals together. Roll the log toward the smeared edge and rock it back and forth to seal. Position the log seam side down and trim the ends evenly to make a 12-inch log. Slice it into 1-inch-wide pieces and place them cut side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet, spaced 2 inches apart. Brush with the remaining beaten egg and set aside in a warm place to proof until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, 2 to 2½ hours.

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Spread about 1½ teaspoons of the almond cream over the tops and press 3 whole almonds into the center of each snail.

Bake for 25 minutes, until nicely browned, rotating the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking.

Allow to cool, and sift a fine layer of powdered sugar over each.

Yield: 12 snails

“THEIR NAME SAYS IT ALL: LITTLE CUPS OF BUTTER.”

Buttercups

ANOTHER VARIATION ON CROISSANT DOUGH, BUTTERCUPS HAVE A LITTLE sugar rolled into the dough and some extra butter brushed on before baking. Sweet and simple, their name says it all: little cups of butter.

Special Items: LARGE MUFFIN TIN, ¾-CUP-CAPACITY, HEAVILY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER

4½-INCH ROUND CUTTER

1 recipe (about 2¾ pounds) Croissant dough, chilled

¾ stick butter (3 ounces) unsalted butter, melted

1 cup granulated sugar

On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a 21 × 10-inch rectangle, slightly thicker than ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain the rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the long side parallel to the edge of the surface, sprinkle ¼ cup of the sugar over the dough and gently roll over with a rolling pin. Fold the dough into thirds, by folding the left side over to the center and the right side over to meet the left edge. Turn the dough so the shorter side is parallel to the edge of the surface. Lightly dust the surface with flour and roll the dough out to a 26 × 7-inch rectangle, ⅜ inch thick, stretching the corners and squaring off the sides. Brush off the excess flour, sprinkle with ¼ cup of the sugar and gently roll over with a rolling pin. Fold the right side to the center and the left over to the right edge, stretching the dough slightly to square off the sides.

Roll the dough out to a 24 × 12-inch rectangle, about ¼ inch thick. Brush the surface of the dough with melted butter and sprinkle with ¼ cup of the sugar. Cut out twelve 4½-inch circles and sprinkle each with 1 teaspoon of sugar. Bring 2 opposite sides of the circle together into the center and bring the other 2 sides up to meet in the center. Pinch together firmly in the middle to seal and to form 4 tear-shaped gaps. Place into the prepared tins and set aside in a warm place to rise, for about 1 hour, until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch.

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Bake for about 35 minutes, until nicely browned, rotating the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking.

Yield: 12 buttercups

Chocolate Croissants

THERE ARE SPECIAL CHOCOLATE BATONS THAT ARE SHAPED WITH ONE FLAT SIDE and one slightly curved side, made to fit perfectly together on the inside of the croissant. You may find them in specialty stores and through mail order; or if not, just chop up some bittersweet chocolate.

½ recipe (about 1⅓ pounds) Croissant dough, chilled

32 bittersweet chocolate batons or 8 ounces bittersweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a long 10 × 18-inch rectangle, about ¼ inch thick, lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness. Working with the long side parallel to the edge of the surface, cut the rectangle horizontally into 4 strips, each 2½ × 18 inches. Then cut each strip vertically into 4 pieces, each about 2½ × 4½ inches.

Working with one piece at a time, the long side parallel to the edge of the surface, place 2 batons of chocolate, flat sides together, ¾ inch from the left edge, with about ½ inch of the bottom ends of the batons protruding beyond the bottom edge of dough. Fold the left edge of dough over the batons.

Holding on to the ends of the batons with your fingers, roll up the dough, rocking the chocolate back and forth to create a bit of tension. Pinch the seam to seal, and place the croissant seam side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet, pressing down gently to flatten slightly. Continue in the same manner and repeat with the remaining dough.

Using a knife or razor blade, score two diagonal lines across the top of each croissant, about ¾ inch apart. Space the croissants about 2 inches apart on the baking sheet and set aside in a warm place to rise, until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 1½ to 2 hours.

Adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 425 degrees.

Bake according to the directions for Croissants.

Yield: 16 croissants

Cinnamon Buns

NOT TO BE CONFUSED WITH THE DOUGHY, AMERICAN-STYLE “CINN-A-BUN,” these are lighter, flakier, and more refined. I like to bake them in small tins (aluminum pot pie tins) for the perfect size bun. If you can’t find those, use your ¾-cup-capacity muffin tin; you’ll get twice as many buns, half the size. For a less flaky but still delicious cinnamon bun, use Bobka dough instead.

Special Item: 10 DISPOSABLE ALUMINUM PIE PANS (1-CUP CAPACITY), OR ¾-CUP- CAPACITY MUFFIN TIN, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER

½ cup light brown sugar, lightly packed

½ cup granulated sugar

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 recipe (about 2¾ pounds) Croissant dough, chilled

1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

1 recipe White Glaze (see Lemon Ginger Muffins)

In a small bowl, combine the sugars and cinnamon.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a 12 × 13-inch rectangle, about ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness. (If you’re using a ¾-cup-capacity muffin tin, divide the dough in half, and chill one half while you roll out a 6 × 7-inch rectangle. Repeat with remaining dough.) Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the longer side parallel to the edge of the surface, sprinkle the cinnamon-sugar over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border along the bottom. (If making the smaller buns, sprinkle half of the cinnamon-sugar over the surface, reserving the other half for the second half of dough.) Brush the bottom edge with the beaten egg.

Fold the top edge of dough over about an inch. Using both hands, roll the dough toward yourself, tucking it under with your thumbs to tighten as you work your way across the entire log. As you tuck, gently rock the dough back and forth to keep it taut and even. As you get close to the bottom edge, using two fingers, smear a ½-inch edge of dough into the work surface to thin it out and ensure that the dough seals together. Roll the log toward the smeared edge and rock it back and forth to seal. Position it seam side down and trim the ends to make a 16-inch log (or 8-inch log). Slice the log into eight 2-inch-wide pieces. (For smaller buns, repeat with the other half of dough.) Place them in the prepared tins cut side down, and set aside in a warm place to rise, until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 2½ hours, or 1½ to 2 hours for the smaller buns.

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Place the tins on a baking sheet and bake for 30 minutes, until nicely browned.

Allow to cool for about 10 to 15 minutes and invert the buns onto the work surface. Dip the fingers of your hand into the bowl of White Glaze. Holding your hand just above the bun, quickly move your hand back and forth to drizzle the glaze to make a thin zigzag pattern over the surface, allowing it to run down the sides.

Yield: 10 buns

Cinnamon Twists

1 recipe (about 2¾ pounds) Croissant dough, chilled

¾ cup granulated sugar

1¼ teaspoons ground cinnamon

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Divide the dough in half and return one half to the refrigerator.

In a small bowl, combine the sugar and 1 teaspoon of the cinnamon.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a 16 × 20-inch rectangle, slightly thicker than ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the long side parallel to the edge of the surface, brush the dough with melted butter, sprinkle it with the cinnamon-sugar and gently roll over with a rolling pin. Fold the dough in half, by bringing the left edge over to meet the right edge, patting it down and squaring off the edges. Roll it out to a 10 × 14-inch rectangle, stretching and pulling out the corners as you roll. Sprinkle the remaining ¼ teaspoon of cinnamon over the top and cut twelve ¾-inch-wide strips.

Pick up a strip and, working close to the surface (don’t worry if some of the cinnamon-sugar falls out), use your fingers to twist each end in the opposite direction, allowing it to naturally stretch as you twist. Set the strip down on the table if you need to reorient your fingers as you twist. It should become about 18 inches long. Trim the ends if necessary and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Continue in this manner with the remaining strips, placing them 1½ inches apart. Scoop up any spilled cinnamon-sugar and sprinkle over the twists. Repeat with the other half of the dough.

Set aside in a warm place to rise for 30 minutes to an hour.

Adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Bake for about 20 to 25 minutes, until nicely browned, rotating the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking.

Yield: 24 twists

Croissant Bread Pudding

BREAD PUDDING CAME ABOUT AS A WAY TO USE UP LEFTOVER BREAD. OUR BREAD pudding came about as a way to use up leftover croissants. Who could bear to throw out all of that butter and all of that hard work? Besides, they make the richest, tastiest bread pudding around.

If you don’t have any old croissants hanging around, well, okay, go ahead and buy them, but don’t say I said so.

Special Item: 6½-CUP-CAPACITY BAKING DISH

6 extra-large eggs

¾ cup granulated sugar

¼ cup vanilla extract

4 cups half and half

6 large croissants

FOR THE TOPPING:

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

In a large bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar, vanilla extract, and half and half until combined.

Slice each croissant horizontally in half, and place cut side up in a baking dish. Pour half of the egg mixture over the croissants and place the other croissant halves, cut side up, on top. Pour the remaining egg mixture over the croissants to cover.

In a small bowl combine the cinnamon and sugar. Sprinkle the mixture over the croissants and dot with butter.

Place on a baking sheet and bake for about 1 to 1½ hours until lightly browned and the custard is set.

Yield: 8 servings

Elephant Ears

½ cup granulated sugar

¼ cup light brown sugar, lightly packed

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ recipe (about 1⅓ pounds) Croissant dough, chilled

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (3 ounces) walnuts, finely chopped

1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

In a small bowl, combine the sugars and cinnamon.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a 22 × 11-inch rectangle, slightly thicker than ¼ inch, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the long side parallel to the edge of the surface, sprinkle the cinnamon-sugar and half of the chopped walnuts over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border along the bottom. Brush the bottom edge with the beaten egg.

Cut the log into twelve 2½-inch-wide pieces, keeping the pieces intact and standing upright. Starting ½ inch from the top, make a slice down the middle of each piece, cutting all the way through, leaving them attached at the top. Working with one piece at a time, separate the halves and open them out to form the “elephant ears,” being careful not to tear the middle section of dough that holds them together. Place them 1 to 2 inches apart, on two parchment-lined baking sheets. Brush the tops with the beaten egg and sprinkle about ½ teaspoon of the remaining walnuts over each. Set aside in a warm place to rise, until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 2 to 2½ hours.

Adjust the oven rack to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Bake for 30 minutes, until nicely browned.

Yield: 12 ears

Espresso Wheels

AS YOU COIL THE LONG TWISTED ROPES, YOU MAY THINK YOU’RE DOING something wrong when you notice that dark liquid filling leaking out onto your counter. Don’t worry; just work away from the edge and sop it up later to smear over the wheels. These chocolatey coffee wheels are definitely worth the mess.

¾ cup whole milk

2½ tablespoons ground espresso or coffee

2 extra-large egg yolks

2½ tablespoons granulated sugar

2½ tablespoons light brown sugar, lightly packed

2 tablespoons light corn syrup

1 recipe (about 2¾ pounds) Croissant dough, chilled

¼ cup (2 ounces) finely chopped bittersweet chocolate

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

In a small saucepan over high heat, bring the milk and espresso to a boil. Remove from the heat and allow the grounds to settle at the bottom.

Meanwhile, in the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, combine the egg yolks and sugars, and mix on medium until pale and thickened, about 3 to 4 minutes. Add the corn syrup and mix another minute. Turn the mixer to low, and slowly, in a thin, steady stream, pour in the hot milk, leaving the grounds that settled in the bottom of the pan. The mixture will become thin.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a 17 × 16-inch rectangle, ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the long side parallel to the edge of the surface, pour ¼ cup of the espresso mixture over the dough, spreading it to about ¼ inch from the edge. Sprinkle over with the chopped chocolate. Quickly fold the right half over to the left side and pinch the open edges together to seal. Sprinkle the cinnamon over the surface.

Cut sixteen ½-inch-wide strips. Pick up 1 strip and, working close to the surface, use both hands to twist each end of the strip in the opposite direction, allowing it to naturally stretch as you twist it into a 20-inch-long strip. Place one end of the strip down on the surface, as you lift the other end up, and begin to coil that end around the other end on the surface, maintaining the twist as you coil. Continue coiling around clockwise and tuck the tail end underneath. Place the coil tail side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining strips, placing the wheels 2 inches apart on two parchment-lined baking sheets. Brush the remaining espresso mixture over the wheels. Set aside in a warm place to rise for about 1½ hours, until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch.

Adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Bake for about 30 minutes, until nicely browned, rotating the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking.

Yield: 16 wheels

Palm Leaves

¾ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 recipe (about 2¾ pounds) Croissant dough, chilled

In a small bowl, combine the sugar and cinnamon.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a 27 × 12-inch rectangle, ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary, and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the long side parallel to the edge of the surface, sprinkle ¼ cup of the cinnamon-sugar over the dough and roll over gently with a rolling pin. Fold the left edge of the dough to the center and fold the right edge to the center, leaving a ½-inch gap in the middle. Stretch the dough slightly to square off the corners. Sprinkle ¼ cup of the cinnamon-sugar over the dough and gently roll over with a rolling pin. Fold again in the same manner. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons of the cinnamon-sugar onto the left half only. Fold the right side over to meet the left edge and pat down gently with the heel of your hand, to widen and lengthen by 1 inch. Trim the open ends to even. The strip should be about 4 inches wide. Working with the longer side parallel to the edge of the surface, slice the strip into twenty ¾-inch pieces. Place each piece cut side down on a parchment-lined baking sheet, 1 inch apart, and sprinkle with the remaining cinnamon-sugar. Set aside in a warm place to rise, until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 2 hours.

Adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Bake for 30 minutes, until nicely browned, rotating the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking.

Yield: 20 leaves

Princess Ring

Special Item: 9-INCH SPRINGFORM PAN, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER

½ cup granulated sugar

½ cup light brown sugar, lightly packed

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

⅔ recipe (about 1⅞ pounds) Croissant dough, chilled

1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

½ recipe Streusel Topping (see Chocolate Swirl–Almond Poundcake)

In a small bowl, combine the sugars and cinnamon.

On a lightly floured work surface roll the dough into a 26 × 10-inch rectangle, about ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the edges and stretching the dough slightly to square off the corners to help maintain the rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the long side parallel to the edge of the surface, sprinkle the cinnamon-sugar over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border along the bottom. Brush the bottom edge with the beaten egg.

Fold the top edge of the dough over about 1 inch. Using both hands, roll the dough toward yourself, tucking it under with your thumbs to tighten as you work your way along the entire log. As you tuck, gently rock the dough back and forth to keep it taut and even. When you get to the end, roll the log back and forth to seal. Trim the ends to make a log 24 inches long. Position it seam side down and pick up both ends, curving them around and toward each other to form a ring. Along the inside of the ring, about 2 inches from where the 2 ends meet, make a cut 2 inches deep, cutting ¾ of the way through to the outside edge. Make 5 more cuts evenly spaced along the inside of the ring. Place it into the prepared pan, seam side down. Set aside in a warm place to rise, until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 2½ hours.

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Brush the surface of the ring with the remainder of the beaten egg and sprinkle the streusel over the top.

Bake for about 40 minutes, until nicely browned.

Yield: 8 to 10 slices

Raisin Swirls

1 recipe (about 2¾ pounds) Croissant dough, chilled

½ recipe (1 cup) pastry cream (see Kinder Pies)

½ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons currants or raisins

1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

FOR DECORATING:

¼ cup apricot jam

¼ cup (1 ounce) finely chopped raw, shelled, unsalted pistachios

On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a 30 × 11-inch rectangle, just under ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the edges and stretching the dough slightly to square off the corners to help maintain the rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the short side parallel to the edge of the surface, spread the pastry cream over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border along the bottom edge. Sprinkle the cinnamon and currants over the pastry cream. Brush the bottom edge with the beaten egg.

Fold the top edge of dough over about 1 inch. Using both hands, roll the dough toward yourself, tucking it under with your thumbs to tighten as you work your way along the entire log. As you tuck, gently rock it back and forth to keep it taut and even. As you get close to the bottom edge, using 2 fingers, smear a ½-inch edge of dough into the work surface to thin it out and ensure that the dough seals together. Roll the log toward the smeared edge and rock back and forth to seal. Position it seam side down and trim the ends to make a 10-inch log. Slice it into ten 1-inch-wide pieces and place them cut side down on two parchment-lined baking sheets, at least 2 inches apart. Brush the swirls with the remaining beaten egg. Set aside in a warm place to rise, until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 2½ hours.

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Bake for 30 minutes, until nicely browned, rotating the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking.

In a small saucepan over medium high heat, bring the apricot jam plus a few drops of water to a boil, stirring constantly. Brush the tops of each swirl with apricot jam and sprinkle with 1 teaspoon of the pistachios.

Yield: 10 swirls

SUGAR BUNS: “EXPATS FROM NORTHERN CALIFORNIA PERSUADED ME TO COME UP WITH A LA BREA VERSION.”

Sugar Buns

A FRENCH-AMERICAN HYBRID, MORNING BUNS MADE THEIR FIRST APPEARance in the mid-1970s at a small French bakery on the northern edge of Oakland. They instantly became a Bay Area classic, putting La Farine on the map and into the hearts of many loyal fans. Suffering from withdrawal, enough expats from northern California persuaded me to come up with a La Brea Bakery version.

Special Item: ¾-CUP-CAPACITY MUFFIN TIN, LIGHTLY COATED WITH MELTED BUTTER

1 cup light brown sugar, lightly packed

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 recipe (about 2¾ pounds) Croissant dough, chilled

1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

FOR THE TOPPING:

½ cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

In a small bowl, combine the brown sugar and cinnamon.

On a lightly floured work surface roll the dough into a 12 × 21-inch rectangle, ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain the rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the long side parallel to the edge of the surface, spread an even layer of the sugar mixture over the dough, leaving a 1½-inch border along the bottom. Gently roll over the filling a few times with a rolling pin. Brush the bottom edge with the beaten egg.

Fold the top edge of the dough over about 1 inch. Using both hands, roll the dough toward yourself, tucking it under with your thumbs to tighten as you work your way along the entire log. As you tuck, gently rock the dough back and forth to keep it taut and even. Roll the log back and forth a few times to seal. Position it seam side down and trim the ends to make a log 24 inches long. Slice the log into twelve 2-inch-wide pieces. Working with one piece at a time, stretch the tail end (about a 1½-inch piece) of each bun slightly and pull it over to cover the flat side of the coil. Place each bun tail side down into the prepared muffin tin. Set aside in a warm place to rise, until almost doubled in size and spongy to the touch, about 2 hours.

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Bake for 25 minutes until lightly browned.

To make the topping: In a small bowl, combine the sugar and cinnamon.

Remove from the oven and cool for about 5 minutes. Roll the buns in the cinnamon-sugar to generously coat them.

Yield: 12 buns

Twice-Baked Almond Croissants

TURN EVEN THE MOST MUNDANE STORE-BOUGHT CROISSANTS INTO A DELICIOUS and easy adventure. Drowned in a sweet orange syrup, stuffed with almond cream, and covered with sliced toasted almonds, these croissants are heavenly.

¾ cup (2 ounces) sliced unblanched almonds

FOR THE SYRUP:

½ cup water

¾ cup granulated sugar

1 vanilla bean

¼ cup orange juice

8 day-old croissants (see Croissants)

1 recipe almond cream (see Almond Log)

Powdered sugar, for dusting

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 325 degrees.

Spread the almonds on a baking sheet and toast in the oven until lightly browned, about 8 to 10 minutes. Shake the pan halfway through to ensure that the nuts toast evenly.

To prepare the syrup: In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the water and sugar. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the sugar mixture. Bring to a boil and cook for another minute. Remove from the heat and stir in the orange juice.

Turn the oven up to 350 degrees.

Slice the croissants in half horizontally and brush the bottom half of each with about 1 tablespoon of the orange syrup. Spread 2 tablespoons of the almond cream on the bottom half of each, mounding it in the center. Place the two halves together and spread 1 tablespoon of the almond cream over the top. Place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet and sprinkle about 2 tablespoons of almonds over the top of each croissant.

Bake for about 20 to 25 minutes, until nicely browned.

Allow to cool a few minutes, and dust with the powdered sugar.

Yield: 8 croissants

Walnut Bowties

1 recipe (about 2¾ pounds) Croissant dough, chilled

1 recipe Nut Filling (see Normandy Apple Tart)

FOR THE TOPPING:

1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

3 tablespoons walnuts, finely chopped

Turn the oven up to 375 degrees.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a 6 × 27-inch rectangle, ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain the rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight to 5 × 25 inches and brush off any excess flour. Cut out ten 5 × 5-inch squares.

Place a heaping tablespoon of the Nut Filling in the palm of your hand and roll it into a 4-inch-long rope. Place it on a diagonal (from top left to bottom right) in the center of the square, approximately ½ inch from the corners. Brush the left and bottom edges of the square with the beaten egg. Fold the right upper corner over to evenly meet the bottom left corner to form a triangle, pressing down gently around the edges to seal. On the left lower corner of the triangle make two 1-inch-long cuts on the sides of the corner, parallel and ½ inch apart from each other. To form the bow-tie shape, lift the lower half of the triangle that you have just cut and flip it over, placing the half triangle on the work surface, stretching it slightly, and leaving the upper half and the middle strip in their original positions. You should now see the bow-tie shape. Separate the top and bottom pieces of dough that form the middle strip (these will be the two “ties”). Wrap the top tie around the middle section once and then wrap the bottom tie around the middle section in the opposite direction, pressing the ends gently to seal. Don’t worry if some of the filling peeks through. Place the bowties on a parchment-lined baking sheet, about 2 inches apart, and set aside in a warm place to rise, until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 2 hours.

Brush the ties with the beaten egg and sprinkle each with ½ teaspoon of the chopped walnuts.

Bake for 15 minutes, until nicely browned.

Yield: 10 bowties

DANISH PASTRIES

EVERYONE HAS EATEN A “DANISH,” BUT DOES ANYONE REALLY KNOW WHAT a Danish is? Growing up, I called just about any sweet roll with a fruity jam center a Danish. Let the truth be known: A true Danish is made from this yeasted dough, spiked with cardamom and nutmeg and, like Croissant dough, layered with lots of butter. The Danes got their recipe from the Viennese, who also invented the Croissant.

Form this delicious dough into Bear Claws, spread with almond filling, or Sunshine Buns, coiled around sweet orange cream, or make some traditional Danish Diamonds, filled with sweet ricotta cheese and your favorite jam.

“EVERYONE HAS EATEN A ‘DANISH,’ BUT DOES ANYONE REALLY KNOW WHAT A DANISH IS? LET THE TRUTH BE KNOWN!”

Danish Dough

1 tablespoon (0.6 ounce) packed fresh yeast or 1 teaspoon active dry yeast

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons (5 ounces) whole milk

¼ cup granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon cardamom

½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 extra-large eggs

½ stick (2 ounces) unsalted butter, room temperature

2¾ cups unbleached bread flour or unbleached all-purpose flour

FOR LAYERING:

2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled

Place the yeast in the bowl of an electric mixer and pour the milk over the yeast to soften a few minutes. Sprinkle in the granulated sugar, cardamom, nutmeg, and salt. Add the eggs and room-temperature butter and, using the dough hook, mix on low for a minute until combined. Turn the mixer off, add the flour, and mix on low about 1 minute, until the dough is smooth but sticky.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and roll it into a 12 × 6-inch rectangle, about ½ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness. Wrap the dough in plastic and chill for about 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, thoroughly clean and dry the bowl of an electric mixer. Using the paddle attachment, cream the butter about 2 minutes, until just softened, but still cool and malleable. (The butter should be the same consistency as the dough.)

Working with the longer side parallel to the surface, smear the butter over the right two-thirds of the dough, leaving a ½-inch border around the edges. Fold the dough into thirds by folding the left unbuttered side over to the center and the right side over to meet the left edge, for a letter fold. Gently roll over the dough a few times to widen slightly, keeping the rectangle shape. If the butter peeks through the dough, sprinkle a little flour on the butter to prevent it from sticking. Brush off any excess flour, wrap in plastic and chill for an hour, until slightly firm, but not hard.

On a lightly floured surface, dust the dough with flour and roll into a 16 × 6-inch rectangle, about ½ inch thick. Brush off any excess flour. Working with the longer side parallel to the surface, fold the left half of the dough to the center and fold the right half to the center, leaving a ½-inch gap in the center. Gently roll over the dough a few times to widen the rectangle slightly. Fold the left half over to meet the edge of the right to form a 12 × 8-inch rectangle, just under ¾ inch thick. Roll to widen slightly. Wrap in plastic and chill for 45 minutes to an hour.

On a lightly floured surface, roll to a 24 × 8-inch rectangle and repeat the folds once more. Allow to rest on the table for about 5 to 10 minutes. Roll the dough to widen the rectangle slightly. Wrap in plastic and chill 2 to 3 hours, or overnight or freeze if you want to store longer than 1 day.

Yield: 2 pounds

Bear Claws

Special Item: PASTRY BAG FITTED WITH A WIDE TIP, OPTIONAL

½ cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 recipe Almond Cream (see Almond Log)

½ recipe (1 pound) Danish Dough, chilled

1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

¾ cup (2½ ounces) sliced unblanched almonds

In a small bowl, combine the sugar and cinnamon.

If the Almond Cream is cold and firm, spread it onto a clean work surface with a spatula, moving and spreading it to warm it up and make it malleable. Place the Almond Cream in a pastry bag and set aside.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface. Roll the dough into a 21 × 9-inch rectangle, ¼ inch thick, flouring as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the long side parallel to the edge of the surface, cut the dough horizontally in half to make two 4-inch-wide strips. Leaving a 1-inch border on the bottom edge, and ½-inch borders on the left and right edges, pipe or spread an even band of the Almond Cream, 1½ inches wide and ¼ inch thick in the center of the strip. Sprinkle over the cinnamon-sugar. Brush the bottom edge with the beaten egg. Fold the top edge over to the center and then fold over one more time to make 3 layers of dough. Dust the surface of the dough lightly with flour and stretch it, by pulling gently on the ends. With the heel of your hand, move along the entire length of the roll, pressing down the 1½-inch bottom edge to flatten it slightly and seal the layers together. The strip should be about 1¾ inches wide. Let the dough rest about 2 to 3 minutes and repeat the process with the other strip of dough. Brush the top and sides of both rolls with the remaining beaten egg and sprinkle on the sliced almonds. Trim the ends evenly and cut into six 5-inch-long pieces.

Cut four ½-inch-deep incisions, about ¼ inch apart along the bottom edge of each piece. Place them on 1–2 parchment-lined baking sheets, and fan out the strip, arching it to form a semicircle. Space the claws 2 inches apart. Set aside in a warm place to rise, about 1 to 2 hours until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch.

Adjust the oven rack to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

It may be necessary to reopen the “toes” by separating them a bit.

Bake for 25 minutes, until nicely browned, rotating the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking.

Yield: About 15 claws

Cat Eyes in the Dark

JOSE, OUR TALENTED NIGHT BAKER, FILLED THESE WITH CINNAMON CREAM AND I finished them off with a spoonful of our zesty homemade applesauce. It was the perfect match. Round and glowing like cat eyes at night, these cinnamon Danish are nothing to be afraid of. If you don’t have apples for applesauce, use raspberry or apricot jam or try my cheese filling from Cheese Croissants.

FOR THE CINNAMON CREAM FILLING:

1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes

2 tablespoons ground cinnamon

2 cups powdered sugar

1 extra-large egg white, lightly beaten

½ recipe (1 pound) Danish Dough, chilled

1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

½ recipe Streusel Topping (see Chocolate Swirl–Almond Poundcake)

1 recipe Applesauce (see Apple Turnovers)

To prepare the filling: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter and cinnamon on low, 2 to 3 minutes, until softened. Add the powdered sugar and cinnamon, and turn the mixer up to medium, mixing another 3 to 4 minutes until light and fluffy, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Add the egg white and mix for 1 to 2 minutes until incorporated.

On a lightly floured work surface roll the dough into a 16 × 8-inch rectangle, just under ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary, lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the longer side parallel to the edge of the surface, spread the filling over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border along the bottom edge. Brush the bottom edge with the beaten egg.

Slice the log into 16 pieces, each just under 1 inch wide. Fold the tail end of the coil underneath and press together with your fingertips to seal. Place the coils, tail side down, 2 inches apart on two parchment-lined baking sheets. Brush the tops with the remaining beaten egg and sprinkle with a generous layer of streusel. Set aside in a warm place to rise until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 1 to 1½ hours.

Adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Use your fingers to make a ½-inch-deep impression, about the size of a half dollar, in the center of each coil. Place 1 to 2 teaspoons of Applesauce in the well.

Bake for about 30 minutes, until nicely browned, rotating the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking.

Yield: 16 cat eyes

Danish Diamonds

FOR THE CHEESE FILLING:

½ cup (six ounces) ricotta cheese

3 tablespoons crème fraîche or sour cream

1 tablespoon finely chopped lemon zest (about 1 lemon)

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 recipe (2 pounds) Danish Dough, chilled

1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

¾ cup raspberry jam

⅓ recipe Streusel Topping (see Chocolate Swirl–Almond Poundcake)

In a small bowl, combine the ricotta, crème fraîche, lemon zest, and sugar, and set aside.

On a lightly floured work surface roll the dough into a 16 × 18-inch rectangle, about ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain the rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight to make a 13 × 15-inch rectangle and brush off any excess flour. Cut into twelve 3¾-inch squares. Brush a 1-inch border of the beaten egg around the edges of each square.

Spoon a heaping tablespoon of the cheese filling into the center of each square. Elongate the filling diagonally, from the bottom left corner up to the right corner. Place 1 tablespoon of jam next to the filling, slightly overlapping. Using both hands, pick up the top left corner and bottom right corner with your thumb and forefingers, stretching the dough in the opposite directions, about 1 inch. Bring the top left corner over the filling, pressing to seal, and bring the bottom right corner over, pressing gently to seal them together in the middle. Continue the process with the remaining squares and place on a parchment-lined baking sheet, spaced about 1½ inches apart. Set aside in a warm place to rise until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 2 hours.

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Brush the tops of each diamond with the remaining beaten egg and sprinkle generously with the streusel.

Bake for about 25 to 30 minutes, until nicely browned.

Yield: 12 diamonds

Sunshine Buns

IF YOUR FONDEST MEMORIES OF HOME BAKING GO BACK BEFORE THE DAYS OF microwaves and super-convenience foods, then you surely remember those ready-in-minutes rolls found in the deli aisle next to the hot dogs. They came in a cardboard tube that you “popped” against the counter to reveal the smooth raw buns and a tiny can of sugary white glaze. Hot out of the oven (not the microwave), they were soft and squishy and good.

My Sunshine Buns are made with an entire ground orange, no chemicals, and lots of love. They won’t be ready in 10 minutes, but if you have your Danish Dough prepared ahead of time, they don’t take much longer than the fast-food version. Like their imitation counterpart, these too are best hot—right out of the oven.

FOR THE FILLING:

1 orange or Meyer lemon or tangerine, peeled, cut in quarters, seeds removed

½ cup plus 1 tablespoon water

1 cup granulated sugar

½ teaspoon kosher salt

½ stick plus 1 tablespoon (2½ ounces) unsalted butter

¼ cup plus 1 tablespoon light corn syrup

½ cup unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour

1 extra-large egg

½ recipe (1 pound) Danish Dough, chilled

FOR DECORATING:

1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

½ cup (1½ ounces) unblanched sliced almonds, for sprinkling

FOR THE GLAZE:

2 tablespoons ground orange (reserved from the filling)

2 teaspoons light corn syrup

½ cup powdered sugar

To make the filling: In the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade, pulse until the orange is coarsely ground, about 1 minute. Measure out 2 tablespoons for the glaze and set aside.

In a medium saucepan, over medium-high heat, combine ½ cup of the water, the sugar, salt, butter, corn syrup, and remaining ground orange, and bring to a boil.

In a medium bowl, combine the remaining water and flour and whisk in the egg. Slowly pour the orange mixture over the egg mixture, beating to incorporate. Return the mixture to the saucepan and over medium heat, whisking constantly, bring to a boil. Remove from the heat and transfer to a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap, pressing down on the surface so a skin doesn’t form.

On a lightly floured work surface, roll the dough into a 15 × 12-inch rectangle, about ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Working with the longer side parallel to the edge of the surface, spread an even layer of the filling over the dough, leaving a 1-inch border along the bottom edge. Brush the bottom edge with the beaten egg.

Fold the top edge of the dough over about 1 inch. Using both hands, roll the dough toward yourself, tucking it under with your thumbs to tighten as you work your way across the entire log. As you tuck, gently rock the dough back and forth to keep it taut and even. Rock the log back and forth to seal the end. Position the log seam side down and trim the ends to make a 14-inch log.

Slice into 12 pieces and place them cut side down 2 inches apart on 2 parchment-lined baking sheets. Set aside in a warm place to rise until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 1 to 1½ hours.

Adjust the oven rack to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 325 degrees. Spread the sliced almonds on a baking sheet and toast 5 to 7 minutes until lightly toasted. Adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower positions and turn the oven up to 400 degrees.

Brush the buns with the beaten egg.

Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until nicely browned, rotating the baking sheets halfway through to ensure even baking.

Meanwhile, to prepare the glaze: In a small mixing bowl, combine the 4 tablespoons of ground orange, corn syrup, and powdered sugar. This mixture will be very sticky.

Remove the buns from the oven and cool for a few minutes. Spread about 1 teaspoon of the glaze over the surface of each bun and sprinkle 10 to 12 sliced almonds over each.

Yield: 12 buns

Two-Dough Danish

WHEN YOU’RE CLEANING OUT YOUR FREEZER AND YOU COME ACROSS SOME extra Brioche and Croissant or Danish dough, here’s an opportunity to use it. In the end you’ll have a pastry with two different layers of dough with two different textures.

¾ recipe (1½ pounds) Danish Dough, chilled, or ⅓ recipe (1¼ pounds) Croissant dough, chilled

½ recipe (about 1¼ pounds) Brioche Dough, chilled

¾ stick butter (3 ounces) butter, melted

½ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 extra-large egg, lightly beaten

¼ cup walnuts, finely chopped

On a lightly floured work surface, roll the Danish or Croissant dough into a 22 × 10-inch rectangle, ¼ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain the rectangular shape and an even thickness. Trim the edges straight and brush off any excess flour.

Repeat the same process with the Brioche Dough. Place it on top of the Danish or Croissant dough, lining up the edges evenly. Trim to a 21 × 9-inch rectangle. Pour on the melted butter and sprinkle with the sugar.

Fold the top 1-inch edge of dough over. Using both hands, roll the dough toward yourself, tucking it under with your thumbs to tighten as you work your way across the entire log. As you tuck, gently rock the dough back and forth to keep it taut and even. When you reach the halfway point, reverse the roll by placing the rolled-up section on the bottom of the work surface. Fold the top 1-inch edge over and roll in the same manner as above until both logs meet in the middle. Trim the ends evenly to make a 12-inch double log. Cut into twelve 1-inch-wide pieces.

Working on the parchment-lined baking sheet, with one piece at a time, pick up one half of the 2-sided coil and flip it over, so that the 2 coils are facing in opposite directions. Be careful not to tear the dough that connects the two sides. Continue with the remaining pieces and place them 1½ inches apart on 2 parchment-lined baking sheets. Set aside in a warm place to rise until slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 2½ hours.

Adjust the oven racks to the upper and lower positions and preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

Brush the top with the beaten egg and sprinkle about a teaspoon of nuts over each.

Bake for 30 minutes, until nicely browned.

Yield: 12 Danish

PUFF PASTRIES

YOU PROBABLY HAVE A HORROR STORY THAT INVOLVES PUFF PASTRY AND vowed never to make it again. It’s not that it’s hard to make, honest, it’s that you didn’t pay attention to the important details. Your first attempt was probably in the middle of a heat wave, way too hot for even expert Puff Pastry makers. And then, you tried to rush and take shortcuts. With Puff Pastry, you just can’t do that. The dough has to rest the full amount of time that the recipe calls for, or it will be tough and elastic and difficult to work with. Also, the dough and butter must be the same consistency. If the butter is too cold it will break through the dough; if it’s too warm, it will begin to ooze out.

Never waste your Puff Pastry scraps. After you’ve cut out your shapes, gather the scraps, stack them on top of each other, and freeze. You can roll the thawed Puff Pastry out one more time to make Apple or Lemon Turnovers, Cherry Bundles, or Plum Puffs. Let’s be honest, Puff Pastry is time consuming, but once you’ve mastered it, you can do almost anything in the dessert world. Remember, you must start 2 days ahead. If you’re in a hurry, choose another dough.

Puff Pastry

1¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour or unbleached bread flour

5¼ cups unbleached pastry flour

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1½ sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch cubes and softened

1¾ cups water

FOR LAYERING:

5 sticks (1 pound, 4 ounces) unsalted butter, cold

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, combine the flours and salt and mix on low to incorporate. Add the softened butter and mix on low until it’s the consistency of a fine meal. Add the water and mix to combine, about 1 minute.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and knead a few times and gather together into a smooth ball. Cut 4 slits into the top of the dough, ¾ inch deep, in a tic-tac-toe pattern. Wrap tightly in plastic and chill overnight.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let sit for 1 to 2 hours, depending on the weather, until it is room temperature and soft, but still holds its shape.

Place the cold butter on the work surface and pound it with a rolling pin until it begins to soften. Knead the butter with your fingertips until it’s smooth, pliable, and about the same consistency as the dough. As the butter releases excess water, blot it with a towel. Alternately, pound the butter between 2 linen towels until the butter is pliable and the excess moisture is removed. Shape the butter into a 6 × 10-inch rectangle and set aside.

On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a 20 × 10-inch rectangle. Lift and reposition the dough frequently while rolling to keep it from sticking and sprinkle more flour underneath, if necessary.

Working with the short side of the dough parallel to the edge of the surface, place the butter in the center of the rectangle and completely enclose it in the dough by folding the bottom up, the top down, and the 2 sides in to meet in the middle. The edges of the dough may overlap slightly where they meet, but it’s important that the butter be completely enclosed.

With the rolling pin, press 4 or 5 horizontal ridges down into the dough-butter package, keeping the work surface and rolling pin well dusted with flour. Place the rolling pin into the ridge farthest away from you and begin to roll back and forth, widening the ridge. Place the rolling pin in each successive ridge and move it back and forth until the ridges have doubled in width. Press equally in all the ridges so that the dough maintains an equal thickness. This process helps to anchor the butter and prevents it from oozing out of the dough.

When you reach the last ridge, begin to roll the dough away from you until it makes a rectangle about 8 × 24 inches. As you roll, keep stretching out the corners of the dough so they remain at right angles and don’t round out. The dough should at no time be wider than 8 inches. If it starts to widen out as you roll, push in the sides with your hands to keep it in shape.

The dough should be a homogeneous, pale yellow color; you should not be able to see any chunks of butter through it. If the butter does break through, flour it well, and avoid rolling in that spot.

Fold the dough like a letter into thirds, by folding the bottom edge up to the middle and the top edge down to meet the bottom edge. Turn the dough counterclockwise, so the open flap edge is on your right. You have just made the first turn.

Make ridges in the dough again and roll it out to an 8 × 24-inch rectangle, in the same manner as above. Fold in thirds again, brushing off excess flour. Press 2 indentations in the top of the dough to remind yourself that you have made 2 turns. Wrap in plastic and refrigerate for at least 1½ hours, until the dough is thoroughly chilled and relaxed.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let it sit at room temperature for 15 to 30 minutes, until it is roughly the same temperature and pliability as it was when you began to incorporate the butter. Give the dough 2 more turns by repeating the rolling and folding process 2 more times. When both turns are finished, mark the dough with 4 indentations to signify 4 turns. Wrap the dough in plastic and chill overnight.

Give the Puff Pastry its fifth and final turn, repeating the folding process once more. Roll into the desired shape and thickness.

Store Puff Pastry no longer than 3 days in the refrigerator or it will spot and turn gray. Freeze for longer storage.

Yield: About 5 pounds

TURNOVERS: “THE BEST TURNOVERS EVER—I PROMISE.”

Apple Turnovers

LIGHT AND FLAKY AND FILLED WITH SAUTÉED APPLES AND APPLESAUCE, THESE puff pastry turnovers aren’t like any others. The homemade applesauce makes them twice as appley and the Puff Pastry makes them twice as crispy.

Note: To sauté the apples properly, it is important not to overcrowd them in the pan. If your pan is smaller than 12 inches, divide the apples and the other ingredients more or less equally into 3 or 4 batches to sauté.

Special Items: 5½-INCH ROUND CUTTER

12-INCH SKILLET

FOR THE APPLESAUCE:

2 to 3 Granny Smith apples (¾ pound), firm and tart, peeled and cut into 1-inch cubes, to equal 2 cups

3 tablespoons (1½ ounces) unsalted butter, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons water

2–3 tablespoons granulated sugar, to taste

1 vanilla bean

½ recipe Puff Pastry (about 2 pounds), chilled

FOR THE FILLING:

¾ stick (3 ounces) unsalted butter

1 vanilla bean

4 to 6 (2 pounds) Granny Smith apples, firm and tart, peeled, cut around the core and sliced into ⅜-inch-thick slices, to equal 6 cups

¼ cup granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ cup brandy or whiskey

FOR THE TOPPING:

1 to 2 extra-large egg whites, lightly beaten

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon

To prepare the applesauce: In a large saucepan, over high heat, combine the apples, butter, lemon juice, water, and 2 tablespoons of the sugar, reserving the other tablespoon of sugar to correct the sweetness after cooking.

Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the apples. Cover the saucepan tightly with aluminum foil, crimping the edges to seal the pan, so the steam can’t escape. Bring to a boil, turn down the heat to very low, and cook about 3 to 5 minutes, or until the foil has puffed up. Turn off the heat, and allow to sit, covered, for about 20 to 25 minutes.

Remove the foil. Test the apples for doneness by piercing with a knife. If they’re not completely cooked, re-cover and bring back to a boil, turn off the heat, and allow it to sit for 15 to 20 additional minutes.

Remove the vanilla bean and whisk until the apples are pureed. Taste the applesauce; if it’s not sweet enough, add the remaining sugar and stir to combine. Allow to cool.

Divide the Puff Pastry in half, and return one half to the refrigerator. On a lightly floured work surface roll the Puff Pastry to ⅛ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Cutting as closely together as possible, cut out five 5-inch circles and place them on a parchment-lined baking sheet to chill until firm, about 1 hour. Stack the scraps on top of each other, and set aside. Repeat with the other half of dough. Gather the scraps and stack them on top of the other pile and wrap in plastic. Freeze the trimmings for another use.

Meanwhile, to prepare the filling: In a large skillet, over medium heat, melt the butter. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds and add the scrapings and the pod to the butter and heat until bubbly. Add the apples, tossing to coat with the butter. Reduce the heat to medium-low and sauté the apples slowly, without allowing them to color. Cook until they’re tender and shiny and begin to release their juices, about 8 to 10 minutes. As they cook, swirl the pan to promote even cooking, keeping the apples in a single even layer. Turn down the heat to low, add the sugar and cinnamon, and toss to combine. Cook until the apples are a golden color, but still slightly firm to the touch, about 5 to 8 minutes. Remove from the heat. Add the brandy (or whiskey) and return it to the heat. Tilting the pan slightly toward the flame, ignite the liquor, letting it burn until the flames die down. Strain the liquid from the apples and transfer them to a baking sheet to cool. Remove the vanilla bean. Allow to cool.

To assemble the turnovers: Spoon 2 tablespoons of applesauce into the center of each circle and place about 6 slices of apple over the sauce. Brush the lower half of the outer edge of each circle with the egg white. Fold the top half over the filling to form a half circle. Press down with your index finger to seal the edges. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet and freeze until firm, at least 1 hour.

Adjust the oven rack to the upper position and preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

In a small bowl, combine the sugar and the cinnamon.

Cut 3 short diagonal lines across the middle of each turnover, cutting all the way through the top of the dough. Place them 1 inch apart on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Brush the tops with the remaining egg white and sprinkle with about ½ teaspoon of the cinnamon-sugar.

Bake for 30 to 40 minutes, until well browned and crispy.

Yield: 10 turnovers

Lemon Turnovers

THESE ARE THE BEST LEMON TURNOVERS EVER—I PROMISE. THE EASY-TO-make cream cheese dough is crisp and flaky. Don’t get me wrong, Puff Pastry will always work in a pinch.

Special Item: 5-INCH ROUND CUTTER

FOR THE CREAM CHEESE DOUGH:

4 sticks (1 pound) unsalted butter, chilled and cut into 1-inch cubes

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 cups (1 pound) cream cheese

4 cups unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour

FOR THE FILLING:

¾ cup lemon juice (about 3 to 4 lemons)

¾ cup granulated sugar

6 extra-large egg yolks

3 tablespoons cornstarch

Zest of 3 lemons, finely chopped

1½ sticks (6 ounces) unsalted butter, softened

FOR THE TOPPING:

1 to 2 extra-large egg whites, lightly beaten

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

To prepare the cream cheese dough: In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, cream the butter, salt, and cream cheese on low, about 1 to 2 minutes, until softened. Turn the mixer off, add the flour, and mix on low about 1 minute, until just incorporated.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and flatten slightly. Roll the dough out to a 14 × 21-inch rectangle, ½ inch thick, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary. Wrap in plastic and chill overnight.

On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a 12 × 20-inch rectangle, flouring the surface of the dough as necessary and lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape. Lift and reposition the dough frequently while rolling to keep it from sticking to the work surface. Fold the dough into thirds by bringing the bottom third up to meet the middle and the top edge down to meet the bottom edge, as you would for a letter. Turn the dough counterclockwise so the open flap is on your right. Keeping your rolling pin and work surface well dusted with flour, press 4 to 5 horizontal ridges across the length of the rectangle to help you roll straight. Press equally within the ridges as you roll out a 12 × 20-inch rectangle. Repeat the letter fold in the same manner and turn the dough again so the open flap is on your right. Roll and fold once more in the same manner for a total of 3 turns. Wrap in plastic and chill for at least 2 hours.

To prepare the filling: In a deep, stainless-steel saucepan, over medium-high heat, bring the lemon juice and ¼ cup of the sugar to a boil. Remove from the heat.

In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the whisk attachment, beat the egg yolks and remaining sugar on high, until it is very thick, pale yellow, and forms a ribbon when the beater is lifted from the bowl. Add the cornstarch and lemon zest, and mix to combine. Remove the bowl from the mixer and slowly pour ⅓ of the hot lemon juice mixture into the egg mixture, whisking to combine. Pour the egg-lemon mixture into the saucepan, return the saucepan to the stove, and over medium-high heat, bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Remove from the heat and whisk in the butter. Transfer to a bowl and immediately cover the mixture with plastic wrap, pressing down on the surface so a skin doesn’t form. Chill until firm and cold.

Divide the dough and return one half to the refrigerator. On a lightly floured surface, roll the dough into a 14 × 18-inch rectangle, ⅛ inch thick. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet and chill for 15 to 20 minutes, to relax the dough. Repeat with the other half of the dough.

To cut and assemble the turnovers: Remove one half of the dough from the refrigerator. Cutting as closely together as possible, cut out 6 to 7 circles. Spoon 1½ to 2 tablespoons of filling in a mound into the center of each circle. Brush the lower half of the outer edge of each circle with the egg white. Fold the top half over the filling to form a half-circle. Press down with your index finger to seal the edges. Transfer to a parchment-lined baking sheet and freeze until firm, about 1 hour. Gather the scraps of dough, stack them on each other, and wrap in plastic to freeze for another use. Repeat with the remaining dough.

Adjust the oven rack to the upper position and preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Remove the turnovers from the refrigerator and cut 3 short diagonal lines across the middle of each turnover, cutting all the way through the top portion of dough. Sprinkle one tablespoon of sugar onto the parchment-lined baking sheet and place the turnovers on it. Brush the tops with the remaining egg white and sprinkle the remainder of the sugar over each turnover. Space them 1 inch apart on the baking sheet.

Bake for 35 to 40 minutes, until well browned and crispy.

Yield: 12 to 14 turnovers

Armenian Coffee Cake

I’M NOT SURE WHICH I’M MORE GRATEFUL FOR, SUSAN AND STEVE SAHATJIAN’S big, fat juicy raisins, which find their way into many of our breads and pastries, or the incredible Armenian coffee cake they once brought me—soft and buttery, slightly sweet and slightly salty. Obsessed beyond reason, I pestered the Sahatjians for the recipe and they in turn pestered their premier Armenian baker in Fresno.

Eat it warm, and if you’re like me, you won’t be able to stop. Simple, satisfying and comforting, this is the chicken soup of coffee cakes.

Special Item: 9-INCH CAKE RING OR 9-INCH SPRINGFORM PAN WITHOUT THE BOTTOM, OR A 9-INCH ROUND CAKE PAN

FOR THE DOUGH:

1 tablespoon (0.6 ounce) packed fresh yeast or 2¼ teaspoons active dry yeast

⅓ cup warm water

½ cup evaporated milk

1 extra-large egg

⅓ cup vegetable shortening, melted and cooled

¼ cup granulated sugar

¾ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ cup vegetable oil, plus extra for coating the bowl

2¾ cups plus 1 tablespoon unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour

1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter, very soft but not greasy

FOR THE FILLING:

½ stick plus 1 tablespoon (2½ ounces) unsalted butter

½ teaspoon kosher salt

1 vanilla bean

1 cup unbleached pastry flour or unbleached all-purpose flour

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

FOR SEALING THE DOUGH:

1 egg yolk, lightly beaten with a few drops of water

Place the yeast in the bowl of an electric mixer and pour the warm water over to soften, about 1 minute. Add the evaporated milk, egg, shortening, sugar, salt, oil, and flour. Using the dough hook mix on low speed for about half a minute, then turn up to medium-high and mix until the dough comes together, about 2 minutes. Add as much as 1 tablespoon of flour if necessary, to prevent the dough from sticking to the sides of the bowl. The dough should be very soft, smooth, and shiny.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface, knead a few times, and gather it into a ball. Clean the mixing bowl and lightly coat it with vegetable oil. Return the dough to the oiled bowl, cover it tightly with plastic wrap, and set aside in a warm place until the dough has doubled in size, about 1 to 1½ hours.

Meanwhile, to prepare the filling: In a heavy-duty small saucepan, melt the butter with the salt. Using a small paring knife, split the vanilla bean lengthwise. With the back of the knife, scrape out the pulp and the seeds, and add the scrapings and the pod to the butter. Over medium-high heat, add the flour 2 tablespoons at a time, stirring to incorporate thoroughly between each addition. Once all of the flour has been added, continue to stir and scrape the pan to prevent the mixture from coloring unevenly. Initially, the mixture will be dry, crumbly, and awkward to stir. Flatten and pat it with the back of a wooden spoon, continuing to stir. As it cooks, the mixture will soften and become shiny. Cook about 30 minutes, until pasty and the color of light peanut butter.

Transfer to a bowl. Remove the vanilla bean and stir in the sugar, mixing well to combine. Spread the filling onto a baking sheet and set aside to cool.

Once the dough has doubled in volume, remove to a lightly floured surface. Keeping the shorter end parallel to the edge of the work surface, flatten and gently stretch the dough, pulling out the corners to form a rectangle about 7 × 14 inches, and ½ inch thick. Leaving a 1-inch border around the edges, spread your fingers apart and dimple the dough with your fingertips a few times. Dot the softened butter over the dimpled surface.

Enclose the butter by folding the bottom third of the dough up to the center and pinching the edges to seal. Pull out the corners and carefully stretch the edges to square them off. Fold the top third of the dough down to meet the bottom edge, pulling out the corners and stretching the sides to square them off.

Turn the dough so the open seam is on your right. Gently roll or stretch the dough out to a rectangle 7 × 14 inches, lifting the dough to square off the edges and corners to help maintain a rectangular shape and an even thickness, flouring as necessary and pinching the dough to reseal where the butter pokes through. Fold, turn, and roll the dough two more times in the same manner as above. Brush off any excess flour, cut the dough in half, and pinch the cut edges to seal. Wrap each piece in plastic and chill for at least 15 minutes, but no longer than 30 minutes.

Remove half of the dough from the refrigerator and turn it out onto a lightly floured surface. Pat it into a disc and gently roll and stretch it into a circle about ¼ inch thick. Using your ring as a guide, cut out a 9-inch circle, reserving the scraps of dough. Place the ring on a parchment-lined baking sheet and lift the dough into the ring, gently pressing it down and pushing it outward around the edges to fit inside the ring. Dimple the dough and brush a ½-inch border around the edge with egg yolk. Crumble the filling over the surface of the dough, up to the edge of the egg-washed border.

Remove the remaining dough from the refrigerator and turn it out onto a lightly floured work surface. Pat it into a disc and gently roll and stretch the dough, pulling out the corners, to form a circle slightly larger than the 9-inch ring. Cut out a 9½-inch circle, reserving the scraps. Place the circle on top of the filling, pressing down lightly on the edges to seal.

Roll the scraps into long ropes and press them into the gap between the dough and the pan. Dimple the dough about ten times and sift a fine layer of flour over the surface.

Set aside in a warm place to proof for 45 minutes to an hour, until it’s slightly puffy and spongy to the touch.

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and preheat the oven to 375 degrees.

Bake on the baking sheet for 30 to 35 minutes, until nicely browned.

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

Toasted Fruit Wedges

MY FRIEND PAULA OLAND MAKES THE WORLD’S BEST FRUIT FOCACCIA. I LIKE to think I make the world’s best hot cross buns. Put two good friends together with two good doughs and you end up with these Toasted Fruit Wedges that are out of this world. Packed full of dried fruit, they’re somewhere between a toasted, crusty, holiday bread and a sweet yeasted pastry. This is one of the wettest, stickiest doughs in this book, and you’ll need to wash your hands frequently as you work with the dough.

Special Item: 11 × 17-INCH JELLY-ROLL PAN, BRUSHED WITH MELTED BUTTER

3¼ cups (1 pound) yellow raisins

1½ cups (½ pound) dried sour cherries

2 cups (½ pound) dried cranberries

2 tablespoons plus ½ teaspoon (1.2 ounces) packed fresh yeast or 1 tablespoon plus 1½ teaspoons active dry yeast

1 cup whole milk, lukewarm

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

4½ cups unbleached all-purpose flour

½ cup dark or medium rye flour

2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground ginger

¾ stick (3 ounces) unsalted butter, very soft

FOR DECORATING:

1 extra-large egg yolk, lightly beaten with a splash of water

¼ cup large crystallized or granulated sugar

Powdered sugar, for dusting

In a large bowl, cover the raisins, cherries, and cranberries with about 3 cups of water and set aside to soften at least 2 hours or overnight.

Place the yeast in the bowl of an electric mixer and pour the warm milk and sugar over to soften, 1 to 2 minutes.

Place a large strainer over a medium bowl and strain the fruit, pressing out the excess liquid. Measure out 1½ cups of the liquid, pour it into the yeast mixture, and discard the remaining liquid. Add the flours, salt, cinnamon, and ginger to the yeast mixture. Using the dough hook, mix on low to combine for about 1 minute. Turn the mixer up to medium-high and mix for about 8 to 10 minutes, until the dough almost wraps itself around the dough hook and makes a slapping sound against the sides of the bowl. You may need to add a few pinches of flour to encourage it to come together. The dough should be very sticky, soft, and shiny. Turn the mixer down to medium-low and add the butter, a teaspoon at a time. Turn the mixer up to medium-high and mix for 2 to 3 minutes until smooth and shiny. You may need to add another pinch of flour to encourage the dough to almost wrap itself around the hook again.

Flour your hands and turn the dough out onto a floured work surface and stretch the dough into a rough rectangle. Sprinkle one-third of the fruit onto the dough, sprinkle with flour, and fold it over onto itself, to enclose the fruit. Don’t worry if some of the fruit spills out. Return the dough to the bowl of the electric mixer and mix on low for about 1 minute, until the fruit is distributed. Turn the dough out onto the floured surface, add half of the remaining fruit, sprinkle with flour, and repeat the folding and mixing 2 more times.

Turn the dough out onto a floured surface and gather into a ball. Clean the mixing bowl, lightly coat it with vegetable oil, and return the dough to the oiled bowl. Cover it tightly with plastic wrap and set aside in a warm place until the dough has risen half its size and feels spongy to the touch, about 3 hours.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured work surface and gently roll and stretch the dough out to the size of the jelly-roll pan. Place it on the jelly-roll pan, sprinkle the surface with flour, and dimple the surface. Place a piece of parchment paper or a towel over the pan to cover the dough. Chill for at least 12 hours and up to 24 hours.

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and set aside in a warm place until it comes up to room temperature and is slightly puffy and spongy to the touch, about 2 to 2½ hours. Brush the surface with the egg yolk and sprinkle with crystallized sugar.

Adjust the oven rack to the lower position and preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Open the oven door, spritz the oven heavily with water from a spray bottle, and quickly close the door. Open the oven door again and slide the jelly-roll pan onto the oven rack. Spritz the oven heavily with water again and quickly close the door.

Bake for 45 minutes, until nicely browned and firm to the touch. Allow to cool about 10 minutes. Lift the entire loaf and place it on a work surface. Cut it into 8 large squares and cut each square in half diagonally to form 16 triangular wedges.

Transfer the wedges onto 2 parchment-lined baking sheets, spaced 1 inch apart, and return to the oven for another 25 to 30 minutes, to crisp up the sides.

Allow to cool. Sift a fine layer of powdered sugar over the tops.

Yield: 16 wedges