Almond Extract: Choose pure almond extract and beware of brands that use artificial flavorings.
Almond Paste: Almond paste is made from ground almonds and sugar. Marzipan is an acceptable replacement, although it’s a bit softer and sweeter. Almond paste is available in some supermarkets and most specialty food stores. See Sources.
Butter: All of the recipes in this book call for unsalted butter. Imported Normandy butter, or domestic Plugra, found at specialty shops and cheese stores, or Land O Lakes, found at many supermarkets, have the best flavor. However, many small American dairies are finally producing delicious butters. I am most familiar with Egg Farm Dairy on the East Coast and Strauss Family Creamery on the West Coast. If you plan to keep butter longer than a few days, it’s best to store it in the freezer so it doesn’t pick up off odors from your refrigerator.
Chocolate: My favorite chocolate brands are California-made Scharffen Berger, French Valrhona, and Venezuelan Chocolates El Rey. My favorite type of chocolate is bittersweet. All of these are couverture quality, and contain a higher percentage of cocoa butter. They are carried in most specialty food stores or can be ordered through the mail (see Sources). To melt chocolate: Bring a large pot of water to boil and turn it down to a gentle simmer. Chop the chocolate in 2-inch pieces. Place the pieces in a clean, dry stainless-steel bowl several inches larger than the pot so the steam doesn’t rise and contaminate the chocolate, which will cause it to lump. Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and set over the pot of simmering water. Keep the flame very low and be sure the bowl isn’t touching the water, or it will burn and ruin the chocolate.
“ORGANIC FARMERS’ MARKETS GUARANTEE THE FRESHEST EGGS, UNLESS YOU’RE LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE A CHICKEN COOP IN YOUR BACKYARD.”
Cinnamon: Once you’ve tasted freshly ground cinnamon sticks, you’ll never settle for preground cinnamon from a supermarket jar. Specialty spice stores (see Sources) do sell preground Saigon cinnamon, the most flavorful variety. To grind a cinnamon quill, break into small pieces and grind by itself in a spice mill or in a clean coffee grinder, or grind with a bit of sugar until finely powdered.
Cocoa Powder: I prefer dark, unsweetened cocoa powder. Not so long ago, this high-quality cocoa powder was made only by European companies and was “Dutch-processed” (chemically treated). Now the American chocolate maker Scharffen Berger produces an excellent natural unsweetened cocoa powder, a bit lighter in color than the European ones but excellent in flavor.
Crème Fraîche: Similar in flavor to sour cream, this tangy and rich cream is found at specialty supermarkets or can easily be made at home. To make your own: In a small stainless-steel bowl, combine 1 cup heavy cream with 3 tablespoons buttermilk. Cover and allow the mixture to sit in a warm place for about 24 hours, until thickened. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.
Eggs: I use extra-large eggs. Organic farmers’ markets will guarantee the freshest and best-tasting eggs, unless you’re lucky enough to have a chicken coop in your backyard, like I do.
Flour: Most of the recipes in this book call for unbleached pastry flour—a low-protein flour to ensure tender crusts, cookies, and cakes. It is a little difficult to find, but it can be ordered by mail (see Sources). Unbleached all-purpose flour, slightly higher in protein, is the best alternative. To measure flour, use the scoop-and-level technique, and then sift it if sifting is called for. Flour should be stored in airtight containers in the refrigerator or freezer.
Kosher Salt: I prefer the larger granulation of kosher salt to cook with, as it is a bit coarser than ordinary table salts. If you use a finer-grain salt, use half the amount. Look for the kosher salt variety without any chemical additives, available in some supermarkets, specialty stores, and most mail-order catalogs.
Nutmeg: I’m a stickler for freshly ground nutmeg. If you don’t have whole nutmeg at home to grate, I would skip adding this spice altogether. To grate your own, use the smallest hole on a grater or buy a special nutmeg grinder.
Nuts: Because of their high oil content, nuts can go rancid easily. Whenever you can, buy your nuts seasonally, fresh from a farmers’ market, to ensure that you get this year’s crop. Store raw nuts in the freezer in an airtight container and toast only as you need them.
Vanilla: There is nothing like the fragrance and flavor of a soft, plump vanilla bean. This long and slender pod is a miraculous work of nature, imparting the deepest, richest flavor ever. I prefer Tahitian vanilla beans, which are about five inches long, more moist and plump, and packed with little wet seeds. Beware of the skinny, shriveled-up beans found in the supermarket; they are often dried out and void of any flavor. Find a good mail-order source (see Sources) or specialty market that has a fresh source. Store in the refrigerator, tightly wrapped in plastic wrap or in an airtight container.
Don’t throw your old used bean pods away; instead, make vanilla sugar by rinsing off the beans and allowing them to dry at room temperature or in a low-temperature oven until brittle. When you have about a dozen, grind them into a powder in the food processor or spice grinder, along with a few cups of powdered sugar. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer to remove any crunchy vanilla bean pieces. Use this to flavor whipped cream, to replace a small amount of plain sugar in a recipe, or to dust the tops of cookies.
When you buy vanilla extract, be sure the label reads “pure vanilla,” and beware of artificial flavorings. The best is Tahitian vanilla extract, available in specialty stores and catalogs.