Serves 8 Serves 8
Maybe I’m just a cynic, but I hate when people describe food as a season on a plate or in a bowl. Expressions like “You won’t believe this fresh-cut-grass salad, it’s like spring on a plate,” make me want to pull out what’s left of my hair. But, I have to tell you, this soup is like summer in a bowl. I hate myself for saying it, but it’s true.
I only make this soup in the summer when corn is at its annual peak of perfection, and I serve it hot because that’s the only way to really taste all of the corn’s flavor. Because it depends so thoroughly on the vegetable itself, only make this with super-fresh cobs.
The other thing I just adore about this is that it can be dressed to the nines with as many garnishes as you desire (see the note at the end of the recipe).
15 large ears corn, husked
1 quart plus 1 cup whole milk
Coarse salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Sugar
1 to 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1. Cut the kernels off the cobs by standing each cob on end and slicing downward with a large, sharp chef’s knife, rotating the cob until all the kernels are removed. You should have 6 to 7 cups of kernels. Then repeat this action against the cob itself, this time running the blunt back edge of the knife down the cob to draw out any remaining moisture.
2. Transfer the kernels and their liquid to the bowl of a food processor and add just enough of the milk for the blade to start moving. Puree the corn until thick and smooth.
3. Transfer the pureed corn to a large, heavy-bottomed pot and set over medium heat. Bring to a simmer and cook, whisking constantly, until it warms and thickens, about 15 minutes. Season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar. Gradually whisk the remaining milk into the soup.
4. Pour the soup through a fine-mesh strainer, pushing down on the solids with a rubber spatula to extract as much liquid as possible. Discard the solids. Whisk the butter into the soup to enrich it. If not serving immediately, let cool, cover, and refrigerate for a few days or freeze for up to 1 month.
5. Return the liquid to the pot and reheat gently. Taste and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Ladle the soup into 8 individual bowls. Garnish to your heart’s content and serve at once.
VARIATIONS
Creamed Corn
For delicious creamed corn, simply stop after Step 3.
Chunky Corn Soup
Set one-third of the corn kernels aside before pureeing in Step 2, and return them to the pot just before serving.
GARNISHES
This recipe is a garnisher’s paradise. For a chowderesque dish, stir in 1 pound cooked and shelled crab or lobster meat, or a cup of diced, boiled potato just before serving. You can also scatter minced, crisp bacon, chopped scallion, or crème fraîche and caviar over the top.