Twice-Cooked Vegetable Soup

Serves 8

The Italian ribollita (the name means “twice-boiled”) is one of a diverse family of Italian soups known as zuppe di pane, or bread soups, because they are spooned over a fried crouton in the bottom of the bowl. I love the way these disparate ingredients break down during the long, slow cooking process and create a compelling, composite vegetable flavor; just try to tell where one flavor ends and another begins—it’s practically impossible. This effect is reinforced so much by time that letting it sit overnight is part of the original recipe.

I like to add extra flavor by melting some grated Parmesan on the crouton and finishing the soup with a generous amount of chopped, fresh basil or parsley. You can also add extra flavor by drizzling some Basil Oil or Pesto over each serving.

If you don’t want to go to the trouble of peeling tomatoes, use canned tomatoes instead of fresh.

 

³/₄ cup olive oil

2 large carrots, peeled and cut into ¹/₄-inch rounds

1 large Spanish onion, peeled and cut into small dice

1 large leek, white part plus 1 inch of green, thinly sliced and washed well

2 stalks celery, cut crosswise into ¹/₄-inch pieces

2 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled

Coarse salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 medium Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into ¹/₄-inch dice

Eight 1-inch-thick slices white peasant or country bread

1 to 1¹/₂ cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese

4 plum tomatoes, peeled, or 4 whole, canned tomatoes, drained

¹/₂ head Savoy cabbage, core removed, coarsely chopped

1 bunch kale, stems and tough center stalks removed, coarsely chopped

One 15-ounce can cannellini beans, rinsed and drained

2 quarts store-bought, reduced-sodium vegetable or chicken broth or homemade Vegetable or Chicken Stock

1 cup loosely packed, chopped fresh basil or parsley leaves or Pesto, optional

 

1. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the carrots, onion, leek, celery, and garlic, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until the vegetables are softened but not brown, about 5 minutes.

2. Add the potatoes, stir to let them soak up the flavor of the other vegetables, and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, cabbage, kale, and beans. Season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes. Pour the broth into the pot, stir gently, and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower the heat, cover, and simmer for 2 hours.

3. Remove the pot from the heat and let the soup cool. Cover and refrigerate for at least overnight or for up to a few days, or freeze for up to 1 month.

4. When ready to proceed, preheat the oven to 400°F. Return the soup to the pot and gently reheat it.

5. While the soup is warming, lay the slices of bread on a baking sheet and brush both sides with the remaining olive oil. Toast in the oven until browned, about 5 minutes, then turn and brown on the other side. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and preheat the broiler. Top each bread slice with some grated Parmesan. Place under the broiler until the cheese melts and is bubbly, about 2 minutes.

6. To serve, place one cheese crouton in the center of each of 6 bowls. Stir the basil, parsley, or pesto, if using, into the soup. Ladle some soup over the crouton in each bowl. Serve at once, passing any remaining grated cheese on the side.

CAVOLO NERO

Most Tuscans will tell you to make this recipe with cavolo nero or black cabbage, a vegetable that is all but impossible to find in the United States. If you can get it from a gourmet grocer or farmers’ market, or grow it yourself, by all means use it to replace the kale.