Serves 6 Serves 6
Lobster bisque sounds old-fashioned, and it is. The recipe predates me and everyone reading this. But it’s one of those classics that will probably never fade away because it’s got so much going for it. Few foods are as special as lobster, and the idea of digging into a cream-based soup built around the flavor of this crustacean is irresistible. My recipe for lobster bisque essentially expands the recipe I use at Ouest to make lobster stock with the addition of cream, herbs, and rice. Classic bisque recipes also feature Cognac, but I prefer to keep the focus on the lobster.
4 live lobsters, (about 1 pound each)
3 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup tomato paste
2 plum tomatoes, coarsely chopped
2 sprigs tarragon plus 2 tablespoons tarragon leaves
2 sprigs flat-leaf parsley
2 sprigs thyme
2 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1/4 cup dry white wine
2 teaspoons distilled white vinegar
3 cups heavy cream
Pinch of sugar
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
11/2 cups cooked, long-grain rice (from 3/4 cup uncooked rice)
1. Bring a stockpot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Fill a large bowl halfway with ice water and set aside.
2. Carefully lower the lobsters into the pot, cover, and cook for 5 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the lobsters sit in the covered pot for another minute. Use tongs to remove the lobsters from the pot and submerge them in the ice water until well chilled. Take the head in one hand and the tail in the other and twist them in opposite directions until the upper and lower halves come apart. Split the lobster tail in half lengthwise with a large knife. Remove the lobster meat from the tail and body. Crack the claws and remove the meat from within. Cut the meat into small dice and set it aside. Remove the gray-green tomalley (liver) and red roe (if there is any) from the lobster. Reserve the meat, shells, and tomalley with the roe in separate airtight containers in the refrigerator. This step can be performed up to 24 hours ahead of time. Let come to room temperature before proceeding.
3. Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed pot over high heat until hot but not yet smoking. Add the lobster shells (be careful, they will spit) and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, add the tomato paste and stir to coat the lobster. Cook for 2 to 3 minutes longer.
4. In a small bowl, combine the reserved roe (if any) and tomalley with the tomatoes, tarragon sprigs, parsley, thyme, and garlic.
5. Pour the white wine and vinegar into the pot. Add the tomato mixture, the cream to cover the shells, the peppercorns, 1 teaspoon of salt, and a pinch of sugar.
6. Simmer gently over medium heat for 15 minutes. (Do not let the cream boil.) Taste the broth. If the lobster flavor has not yet infused the broth, cook for another 5 minutes. (Pay special attention here. If overcooked, this can take on an unpleasant, murky flavor. As soon as you taste the lobster cleanly and deliciously, stop cooking.)
7. Strain the broth into a bowl and discard the solids. You should have 21/2 to 3 cups of liquid. If not serving immediately, let cool, cover, and refrigerate for a few days or freeze for up to 1 month. Reheat gently before proceeding.
8. Return the bisque to the pot. Stir in the rice and tarragon leaves. Warm over low heat.
9. To serve, ladle some soup into each of 6 shallow bowls and garnish with the lobster meat.
VARIATIONS
Shrimp Bisque
Make a shrimp bisque by replacing the lobster with 3 pounds of large shrimp. Be sure to purchase the shrimp with the shells intact. Remove the shells and set aside. Clean and butterfly the shrimp and set aside. Make the bisque using the shrimp shells in place of the lobster shells, but only cook them for 30 to 40 seconds in Step 3. Gently poach the shrimp in the simmering soup in Step 6 for a few minutes, until firm and pink, just before serving.
Linguine with Lobster or Shrimp
Make this recipe (or the Shrimp Bisque variation) using only 1/2 cup of cream for a powerfully flavored pasta sauce. Cook 1 pound fresh linguine in salted boiling water until al dente, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain the pasta and toss it with the sauce. Top with lots of freshly chopped tomato and basil.