Serves 6 Butternut Squash and Wild Mushroom Risotto
Serves 6
Risotto is the Leonard Zelig of Italian gastronomy—a dish that takes on the character of whatever you stir into it. (Leonard Zelig is the Woody Allen character in the film of the same name who took on the physical traits of whomever he came into contact with. If you’re never seen it, rent it.)
This risotto is perfect for the fall because it makes the most of two seasonal stalwarts—butternut squash and wild mushrooms—sautéing each separately and then seasoning them with the herbs that suit them best. The result is a sumptuous vegetarian main course. I also recommended it as a side dish to Florentine Pot Roast with Red Wine, Mushrooms, and Tomatoes or Mushroom-Braised Short Ribs. The supporting flavors are so alluring that this would also be delicious made with white mushrooms.
See for a great make-ahead risotto tip.
12 tablespoons (11/2 sticks) unsalted butter
1 large butternut squash (about 2 pounds) peeled, halved lengthwise, seeds discarded, and cut into 1/2-inch dice
Coarse salt
Freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh marjoram or sage leaves
1 clove garlic, peeled and minced
1 pound assorted wild mushrooms (preferably a mix of 3, such as chanterelle, cremini, and shiitake), each type kept separate and cut into small dice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves
2 quarts store-bought, reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth, or homemade Chicken or Vegetable Stock
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large Spanish onion, peeled and cut into small dice
1 pound (2 cups) arborio rice
1 cup dry white wine
1. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the squash cubes, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until browned and slightly softened but still holding their shape, about 12 minutes. Transfer the squash to a bowl, season with the marjoram, and set aside.
2. Wipe out the pot, return it to the stove, add another 2 tablespoons of the butter and a pinch of the minced garlic and cook over medium-high heat until the butter has melted. Add one type of mushroom (or if using just 1 kind, add one-third) and sauté until lightly browned, fragrant, and softened, 5 to 7 minutes based on the type. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl. Repeat twice with the remaining mushrooms and garlic, using 2 tablespoons of butter each time. Once all of the mushrooms have been cooked and scraped into the bowl, stir in the thyme and set aside. If not making the risotto immediately, you can cool and refrigerate the squash and mushrooms in separate containers overnight. Let them come to room temperature before making the risotto; they will reheat when they are stirred in at the end.
3. Pour the broth into a pot and bring to a simmer over low heat.
4. Wipe out the mushroom pot once more, put over medium-high heat, and add the olive oil and 2 more tablespoons of the butter. Add the onion and cook until softened but not browned, about 4 minutes. Add the rice, stir to coat it with the butter and oil, and cook for about 4 minutes. Add the wine, bring to a boil, and cook, stirring, until it evaporates nearly completely.
5. Ladle 1 cup of simmering broth into the rice and cook, stirring, until it is nearly absorbed. Continue to add broth in 1/2-cup increments, stirring the rice constantly. When you are down to the last 2 cups or so, add the broth in smaller increments until the rice is softened but still a bit al dente. (You may not need all of the broth, or you may need to supplement it with more broth or water.) This step should take about 18 minutes altogether.
6. To serve, stir in the reserved mushrooms and squash and remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Season with salt and pepper and divide the risotto among 6 warm bowls.
Butternut Squash and Wild Mushroom Risotto Cakes
For a side dish, cool any leftover risotto and refrigerate in an airtight container overnight. (Use it the next day or the vegetables will become unappealingly mushy.) Form the risotto into 1-inch-thick discs. Spread some all-purpose flour out on a plate and press the cakes into the flour to coat. Warm 1/4 cup olive oil in a wide, deep sauté pan over medium-high heat. Fry the risotto cakes until golden brown, about 3 minutes per side, and serve immediately.