Tuna Noodle Casserole

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Tuna noodle casserole is a classic of American home cooking, in part because it requires little more than a can of tuna, a pound of pasta, and cream of mushroom soup. This recipe ups the ante with high-quality imported tuna (see for more about this) and a rich, homemade béchamel sauce. Rather than the classic egg noodle, this casserole uses pennette, small tubular pasta (discussed). It’s usually used in soups, but I like it here because it’s smaller than the pieces of tuna, and its centers fill up with cream, so flavors and textures other than pasta dominate.

 

1 large egg

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3 cups whole milk

Coarse salt

Freshly ground black pepper

3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1 pound pennette pasta, cooked al dente and drained

One 12-ounce can imported Italian or Spanish preserved tuna packed in oil, drained

2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

2 tablespoons fresh oregano leaves, or 1 tablespoon dried oregano

2 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves

1/2 cup dried bread crumbs

 

1. Preheat the broiler. Put the egg yolk in a small bowl; set aside. Place an enamelware casserole in the oven to warm.

2. In a large, heavy-bottomed pot, melt the butter over medium heat. Add the flour a little at a time, whisking it into the butter to incorporate thoroughly without making lumps. Slowly drizzle in the milk, letting it come briefly into contact with the bottom of the hot pot to warm it a bit before whisking it into the mixture. Add a few tablespoons of the hot mixture to the reserved egg yolk and whisk to combine, then pour the egg yolk mixture into the pot. Whisk in the Parmesan.

3. Add the pasta, tuna, garlic, oregano, and parsley to the pot and stir to integrate the flavors. Remove the casserole from the oven. Transfer the pasta mixture to the casserole. Top with the bread crumbs and broil until the bread crumbs are golden brown, 1 to 2 minutes. If not serving immediately, let cool, cover, and refrigerate for a few days or freeze for up to 1 month. Let thaw to room temperature and reheat under the broiler before serving.

4. To serve, present the casserole family style from the center of the table.