Lamb Pasticcio
Serves 8
Pasticcio is an Italian casserole, sort of a free-form cousin of lasagna. My version is even more casual than the original, not bothering to layer the individual components. The result may remind you of a sophisticated version of that beefaroni they served in your junior-high cafeteria, which—if you’re like me—you secretly remember more fondly that you’d ever admit. This is equally delicious with ground beef or ham.
2 large egg yolks
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 pounds ground lamb Coarse salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/2 large Spanish onion, peeled and cut into small dice
1 cup chopped, roasted tomato
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano leaves
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1 quart whole milk
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese
1 pound ditalini or penette pasta, cooked until just al dente and drained
1. Preheat the broiler. Put the egg yolks in a bowl and set aside. Season the lamb generously with salt and pepper.
2. Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the lamb and cook, breaking it up with a wooden spoon, until browned, about 10 minutes. Transfer the lamb-onion mixture to a bowl and stir in the roasted tomato, tomato paste, parsley, and oregano. Set aside.
3. Wipe out the pot, add the butter, and cook over medium heat until the butter is completely melted. Add the flour a little at a time, whisking it into the butter to incorporate thoroughly without making lumps. Slowly drizzle in the milk, letting it come briefly into contact with the bottom of the hot pot to warm it a bit before whisking it into the mixture. Add a few tablespoons of the hot mixture to the bowl with the egg yolk and whisk it in, then pour the entire mixture into the pot. Whisk in the Parmesan.
4. Place a casserole in the oven to warm it. Spoon about 1 cup of the béchamel sauce into a bowl and set aside. Stir the reserved lamb and the pasta into the remaining béchamel in the hot pot. Remove the casserole from the oven and transfer the contents of the pot into it. Top with the reserved béchamel, using a spatula or the back of a spoon to spread it evenly over the top of the casserole. If not serving immediately, let cool, cover, and refrigerate for a few days or freeze for up to 1 month. Reheat before proceeding.
5. Return the casserole to the oven and broil until lightly browned on top, about 2 minutes. Serve the pasticcio family style from the center of the table.
VARIATIONS
Pasticcio with Ground Sausage
For a fennel-tinged or spicier pasticcio, replace the ground lamb with an equal quantity of sweet or hot Italian sausage removed from its casing.