Serves 6 Tripe with Tomatoes, Thyme, and Oregano
Serves 6
Most people don’t eat tripe, which leaves more for those of us who love it. I learned to appreciate its richly gelatinous texture as a child, and developed an even deeper fondness for it when I worked in France. One of my favorite ways to enjoy it is in a tomato sauce that uses some of the tripe’s powerfully flavored cooking liquid, oregano, thyme, and a dash of white vinegar. This is a two-day process but worth every moment of patient anticipation.
Tripe
4 pounds tripe (if frozen, allow to thaw thoroughly)
1 carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 Spanish onion, peeled and quartered
3 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
2 tablespoons black peppercorns
3 sprigs thyme
1 bay leaf
2/3 cup distilled white vinegar
2 tablespoons coarse salt
1. Put the tripe in a large, heavy-bottomed pot with the carrot, onion, garlic, peppercorns, thyme, and bay leaf. Add enough cold water to cover by 3 or 4 inches. Add the vinegar and salt and bring the liquid to a boil over high heat. Skim any scum that rises to the surface, then lower the heat and simmer for 3 to 4 hours. To test for doneness, remove a piece of tripe from the pot using tongs. Get your fingers good and cold in a bowl of ice water. Pinch the tripe. If your fingers can easily push through the meat and meet in the middle, it’s done.
2. Strain the tripe in a fine-mesh strainer set over a bowl. Reserve 1 quart of the strained cooking liquid, set aside to cool, and discard the rest of the liquid. Remove the tripe from the strainer and discard the other solids. Cool the tripe under cold running water. Wrap the tripe in plastic wrap and pour the cooking liquid into an airtight container; refrigerate for up to 24 hours.
4 plum tomatoes, diced
Coarse salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Sugar
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 Spanish onion, peeled and cut into small dice
1 large carrot, peeled and cut into small dice
2 stalks celery, peeled and cut into small dice
3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 tablespoon tomato paste
1/2 cup dry white wine
2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme leaves
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh oregano leaves
1 quart store-bought, reduced-sodium chicken broth or homemade Chicken Stock
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
Grated parmesan cheese
1. Thirty minutes before you want to cook, put the tomatoes in a bowl and season with salt, pepper, and a pinch of sugar. Set aside.
2. Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic and sauté, stirring, until softened but not browned, 10 to 12 minutes. Add the tomato paste and stir to coat the other ingredients. Cook for 2 minutes. Add the wine and vinegar, bring to a boil, and cook until nearly all of the liquid has evaporated.
3. Add the reserved tomatoes, thyme, and oregano and stir to incorporate. Stir in the chicken broth and reserved tripe cooking liquid, bring to boil, and then lower the heat and simmer until the flavors are nicely concentrated, 20 to 25 minutes.
4. Meanwhile, cut the tripe into bite-size triangles or strips. Add them to the liquid and cook until warmed through and tender, about 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper if necessary. If not serving immediately, let cool, cover, and refrigerate for a few days or freeze for up to 1 month. Reheat before proceeding.
5. Divide the tripe among 6 warm bowls, top each serving with a generous amount of sauce, and pass the Parmesan alongside.
Tripe with White Beans and Tubetti
Cook 1 cup dried tubetti until al dente. Drain and add it and one 15-ounce can drained cannellini beans to the pot during the last 10 minutes of cooking.