Serves 4 Serves 4
Most Americans seem to have heard of the Italian phrase alla cacciatora, but virtually nobody is able to define it. Strictly speaking, alla cacciatora means “hunter-style,” but that doesn’t really clear things up because all this means is that it uses a meat that’s hunted (as in almost anything that walks or flies). The sauce is made by adding any number of vegetables to a base of tomatoes and onions, though some definitions insist that mushrooms are also a mandatory ingredient. Suffice it to say that alla cacciatora is one of those definitions that change from door to door throughout the country of my ancestors.
I’ve always associated chicken alla cacciatora not with Italy per se, but with Italian-Americans. So my version is very much defined by the favorite herb of that proud hyphenate—oregano. And I’ve taken my own liberties, adding what I’m sure is an unconventional alcohol in this context, vermouth, usually reserved for cooking rabbit, another of the hunter’s favorite catches.
I recommend serving this with orzo.
2 to 3 very ripe, firm meaty tomatoes, or canned imported Italian plum tomatoes, cut up, with their juice (about 11/2 cups)
Coarse salt
Freshly ground black pepper
One 3- to 4-pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces
1/4 cup olive oil
1 medium Spanish onion, peeled and cut into 8 wedges
3 cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
1 cup dry white wine
1 cup dry vermouth
1/4 cup fresh oregano leaves
1. About 30 minutes before you want to cook, put the tomatoes in a bowl and season with salt and pepper. Give a good toss and set aside at room temperature.
2. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
3. Wash the chicken in cold running water and pat thoroughly dry with paper towels. Season generously with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a wide, heavy-bottomed ovenproof pot over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the chicken pieces and brown well, 4 to 5 minutes per side. Use tongs or a slotted spoon to transfer the chicken pieces to a plate; set aside.
4. Add the onion and garlic to the pot and cook, stirring, until softened, about 6 minutes. Add the reserved tomatoes, toss well, and cook for 1 minute. Add the wine, vermouth, and oregano and cook for 1 minute more.
5. Return the chicken pieces to the pot, skin side up. Transfer to the oven and cook until a sharp, thin-bladed knife inserted near the bone reveals no red within and only the faintest trace of pink, if any, about 25 minutes for the breast pieces, 40 minutes for the others. As the pieces are done, transfer them to a plate, covering them with aluminum foil to keep them warm.
6. To serve, divide the chicken among 4 warm plates, spooning a good variety of vegetables over each portion.
VARIATION
Hunter-Style Rabbit
For a more rustic recipe, replace the chicken with rabbit and use chopped sage or marjoram in place of oregano.
TOMORROW’S TABLE
Fettuccine alla Cacciatora
If there’s any leftover chicken, cut it up, return it to the sauce, heat gently, and toss with cooked fettuccine. Top with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.