Braised Oxtail with Cipolline Onions

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Generations ago, oxtail was enormously popular as the centerpiece of stews and as an economical way to infuse soups with great, beefy flavor. For some reason, it fell out of fashion for a long time, but has resurfaced in contemporary restaurants where new generations of diners have discovered its rich flavor.

I’ve always loved oxtail because it’s so well suited to my penchant for slow cooking. In fact, there simply are no oxtail dishes that aren’t slow cooked. The meat takes a long time to break down and release all of its fat, which must be removed before serving. Serve this dish with something that will soak up the savory sauce, such as Mashed Potatoes or egg noodles.

By the way, most of what goes by the name oxtail today actually comes from a cow.

 

6 oxtails (about 1 pound each)

Coarse salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Garlic powder

1/4 cup olive oil

1/4 cup fresh marjoram, thyme, or oregano leaves

1/4 cup fresh rosemary leaves

1 large carrot, peeled and cut into small dice

1 medium Spanish onion, peeled and cut into fine dice

2 stalks celery, cut into small dice

3 cloves garlic, peeled and minced

1/4 cup tomato paste

Pinch of sugar

4 cups robust red wine such as Shiraz or Zinfandel

2 quarts store-bought, reduced-sodium beef broth

1 bay leaf

12 ounces medium cipolline onions (about 2 cups), peeled

2 tablespoons whole-grain mustard

 

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Season the meat all over with salt, pepper, and garlic powder.

2. Heat the oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the oxtail pieces, working in batches if necessary, and brown on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side. Transfer the oxtail to a plate and set aside.

3. Pour off all but 2 tablespoons of the fat from the pot. Add the carrot, onion, celery, and garlic. Reduce the heat to medium and cook the vegetables for 5 to 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened. Add the tomato paste and sugar and stir to coat the other ingredients with the paste.

4. Stir in the wine, broth, and bay leaf. Scrape up any browned bits from the bottom of the pot and bring the liquid to a boil over high heat. Return the meat to the pot.

5. Reduce the heat until the liquid is just simmering, cover the pot, and braise in the oven for 1 hour. Remove the cover and cook for 40 minutes. Add the cippoline onions and braise for 20 minutes longer, until the meat comes right off the bone with a gentle tug of a fork. If it is not yet tender, return it to the oven for another 15 minutes and test again.

6. Use tongs or a slotted spoon to transfer the oxtails to a plate; set aside. Pick out and discard the bay leaf. Skim any fat from the surface of the braising liquid and stir in the mustard. Taste and season with more salt and pepper if necessary. If not serving immediately, let cool, cover, and refrigerate for a few days or freeze for up to 1 month. Reheat before proceeding.

7. To serve, divide the oxtails and sauce among 6 plates.

 

CIPOLLINE ONIONS

These Italian onions are distinctly small and squat, with perhaps the sweetest flavor of any member of the onion family. If you cannot find them, pearl onions are a perfectly acceptable substitute.