Braised Veal with Tuna Sauce

Serves 4

This is my take on the classic Italian vitello tonnato, or veal with tuna sauce. That dish might sound odd if you’ve never tried it, but the combination of succulent veal and creamy, salty tuna sauce are a match made in heaven. The original is actually a chilled, lasagna-like casserole with layers of thinly sliced braised veal alternating with tuna sauce, but many modern chefs present it more simply with the veal arranged carpaccio style on a plate and the sauce drizzled over it.

I look at veal and tuna sauce as a make-ahead item perfect year-round for buffets. Make it a day in advance then serve it at room temperature or grill it to reheat. Leaving a small quantity of fat on a lean meat like veal helps keep it moist as it cooks, so don’t trim it too closely.

 

1 cup olive oil

2 pounds veal breast, trimmed of most excess fat

Coarse salt

Freshly ground black pepper

All-purpose flour, for dredging

15 cloves garlic, peeled, plus ¹/₂ clove, peeled and minced

2 anchovy fillets packed in oil, rinsed and patted dry, plus 4 fillets, minced

2 bay leaves

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

3 sprigs thyme

2¹/₂ cups dry white wine

1 scant tablespoon distilled white vinegar

2 tablespoons capers, plus more for garnish, drained but not rinsed

Two 5¹/₂-ounce cans Italian tuna packed in oil

1 cup mayonnaise

 

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Season the veal breast all over with salt and pepper. Dredge it in flour, shaking off any excess.

2. Heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a heavy-bottomed pot large enough to hold the veal breast comfortably. Add the veal breast to the pot and slowly brown it on all sides, 3 to 4 minutes per side, taking care not to scorch or burn the flour. Remove the veal and set aside.

3. Drain all but 2 tablespoons of fat from the pan. Stir in the whole garlic cloves, whole anchovy fillets, bay leaves, peppercorns, and thyme. Stir in the wine, vinegar, and 1¹/₂ tablespoons salt, raise the heat to high, and cook until the wine begins to boil.

4. Return the veal to the pot. As soon as the wine returns to a simmer, cover the pot and transfer it to the oven. Braise until the veal is fork-tender, 2 to 2¹/₂ hours. Check the pot periodically to be sure the liquid is simmering very gently; if it’s bubbling rapidly, lower the oven temperature to 300°F.

5. While the veal is in the oven, make the tuna sauce: Combine the tuna, capers, minced anchovies, and minced garlic in a blender and process until smooth. Pour the mayonnaise into a bowl and stir in the tuna mixture. If the sauce seems too thick—it should have the consistency of heavy cream—stir in a tablespoon or 2 of warm tap water to thin it until pourable. Cover and refrigerate until chilled, about 1 hour, or for up to 24 hours.

6. Transfer the veal to a cutting board and let it cool to room temperature. Discard the braising liquid. If not serving immediately, let cool, cover, and refrigerate the veal and sauce separately for up to 24 hours.

7. To serve, slice the veal breast into ¹/₂-inch-thick slices, divide the slices among 4 plates, and spoon a thin layer of tuna sauce over each serving.

VARIATION

For an easy but starkly different variation, grill the veal slices over high heat for 1 minute on each side before serving.